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Hotel Albeaarle, 

(Patronized by Poyalty.) 

PICCADILLY, LONDON- 









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,^3h^HIS palatial hotel is fitted up in the most luxur- 
^ ious style, and is one of the finest and most select 
hotels in Europe. Cuisine and wines of the highest 
class. The salle a manger is open to non-residents. 



Telegraphic Address, " Hotel Albemarle," London. 



Guide to London, an attractive little book of 50 
pages, sent free of charge on application to the proprietor 
of the Albemarle. Address 

A. L. VOOEIv. 



j^m^rieap l^iije. 



UNITED STATES MAIL STEAICEBS 



PARIS, - - 10,500 Tons. 

NEW YORK, 10,500 " 



BERLIN, - - 5,491 Tons. 
CHESTER, - 4,770 " 




New Yoik, Southampton .^'London. 

FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $70 to $650, 

According to steamer and Location of accommodations. 

Note.— Round Trip Ticketb issued at reduced rates, and the return 
portion can, if desired, be used by RED STAR LiINE from Antwerp 
to New York or Philadelphia. 



Inlern^lionii.1 D^vi^^^Iion Co., 



GENERAL AGENTS, 

G BOWLING GREEN, New York. 



THE GORDON HOTELS arE: 



LONDON. 

The Grand Hotel. 

Hotel Metropole and the Whitehall Rooms. 

The First Avenue Hotel. 

BRIGHTON. 
Hotel Metropole and the Clarence Rooms. 

EASTBOURNE. 

Burlington Hotel. 

RYDE. 

Royal Pier Hotel. 

MONTE CARLO. 

Hotel Metropole. 

CANNES. 

Hotel Metropole. 



TJ qt6l Vigtqriaq 



.•XWXWNXNXsW n\X\W 



NORTHUMBERLAND AVE., 
CHARING CROSS, LONDON, W. C 




ROOMS FOR ARBITRATIONS 
AND MEETINGS. 



BANQUETING-ROOM FOR 
PRIVATE PARTIES. 




N E of the most magnificent Hotels 

in Europe. Most centrally situate 

for all London attractions — close 

to WestminsterAbbey, the Houses 

of Parliament, and the principal Theatres 

500 ROOMS SUPERBLY 
FURNISHED. 
COMPLETELY LIGHTED 
BY ELECTRICITY. 
PASSENGER LIFTS TO 
EVERY FLOOR 



TELEGRAPHIC 

ADDRESS 

VICTOR I OLA 

LONDON 



Manager. G. REEVES SMITH. 



HOTEL WINDSOR, 

VICTORIA STREET, 
^?^^estrrainster. LONDON, S- W. 







Convenient and central location ; European or 
Annencan system ; tl^e only l^otel In London witl> 
TurbisI? and oti^er batiks ; elevators ; electrically 
lia^ted tl^roual^out, day and nlal^t. 

J. R. CLEAVE a CO., PROPRIETORS. 



Bristol • Hotel, 

BURLINGTON GARDENS, LONDON, W., ( ) 

tBet* Bond Street and Regent Street, and near Piccadilly) 



FURNISHED WITH EVERY POSSIBLE 

COMFORT AND MODERN IMPROVEMENT. 

NEW HYDRAULIC LIFT TO ALL FLOORS. 

UGH TED THROUGHOU T BY ELEC TRICI TY. 

LARGE OR SMALL SUITES OR SINGLE ROOMS. 



THE R ESTAURA NT Cork'street ^sopento 

% -^^.^^ Non residents) 

THE HIGH CHARACTERS OF THE WINES AND CUISINE HAVE OBTAINED 
GREAT REPUTATION. 



Pfllmeisloii Restpuiciil, 

BISHOPSGATE STREET AND OLD BROAD ST., 

LONDON, (CITY) E.G. 

^Plrje Uaroe-sl', Cne Flooi' pesfeaurant in thje World 
(Cover-irjo upwards of ar) ^cre). 



LUNCHEON, OYSTER AND AMERICAN BARS. 
CCi\)\7\\\)^* /7//V//V(?, GRILL AND SMOKING ROOMS. : 
V ^ O* HAIR DRESSING SALOON, BA THS, etc. : 

CIGAR and WINE DEPOTS {Wholesale and Retail.) 



V^ORTHY OF A VISIT. 



SIJVLPSON'S 

(LIMITED) - 

Divan Tavern, 

I03 STRAND, 

opposite Exeter Hiall, . . - LONDON. 




i^ 



OOHE premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of 
\9 fifty years, which still retains its supremacy for being- the 
house to get the best English Dinner in London at a moderate 
price. There is also a magnificent Ladies' Dining Room where 
ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the 
room down stairs. Private rooms for large or small parties. 

Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton 
specially cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of 
professed Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables 
Matured wines and spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the 
kingdom. 

E. W. CATHIE, MANAGING DIRECTOR. 



Y0RI\jH0iJSE 

FAMILY HOTEL, 

BATH, ENGLAND. 



ALSO AT 



S. YinceDt's Rock Hotel, Clifton, Bristol, EoglaDd. 



V_, HIS favourite First Class Establishment possesses many 
^ local advantages, being close to the General Post and 
Telegraph Offices, and also very near the Assembly Rooms, 
the Victoria Park, the Royal Crescent, and all the most 
attractive parts of the City. 

The Hotel contains numerous Suites of Elegant Apart- 
ments, and is under the personal superintendence of the 
Proprietor, who has had many years' experience in hotel 
management. 

For Tariff, which is revised and moderate, address 

E. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. 



LARGE ROOM FOR WEDDING BREAKFASTS, 
DINNERS, PUBLIC MEETINGS, <&c. 



-^^^- 



^ 



HOTEL BINBA, 

11 rtj.e de L'Echielle, 

AVENUE DE L'OPERA. PARIS. 

% 

Y^Ap(3)E s^nd gmall apartments; lift ^^ 
"^^^^ each floor ; ginokind and drawing- 
room ; bathroom on each fXoov \ table 
d'hote, 6 francg, from 6 to 8 o'clock, aii 
separate tables ; restaurant a la carte. 



ADVANTAGEOUS ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH 
FAMILIES WINTERING IN PARIS. ' 



Electric Liglnt all over tine Hotjise. 



CHARLES BIN DA, PROPRIETOR, 

Late with Delmonico, New York. 



^M^ 



PiEMSTIUi 

37, Rue Cambon, 37, 



PA^IS. 



BOULEVARD DBS CAPUCINE3 



En face les jardins dii Ministere de la Justice 



IVIAISON 13 E l^r ORDRE 

WULLSCHLEGER & G'^ 

J'/^ OPRIE T A IRES. 

RESTAURANT 

TABLE D'HOTE 

CAI.ORIFERE 



BAINS 
ASCENSEUR 



TELEPHONE 
ELE6TRIG1TE 



PARIS. 



HOTEL 



PARIS. 



METROPOLE, 



6 RUE CASTIGLIONE. 6 




^[^IS first-class J^otel, situated in the 

best part of the metropolis, opposite 

the f^otel Continental and the Tuileries 

(gardens, is highly recommended for 

comfor-t, cuisine, moderate charges and 

sanitary arrangements; ©tis American 

elevator. 

X. §IbVA.f^I, f^roprietor. 



LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY 

THE OLD ROUTE !N THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS' FAVORITE. 



IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE. 

SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM 
lilVEKPOOIi (Lime Street Station) to liONDON (Euston Station) 

under FOUR AND A-HALP HOURS to OL.ASOO\V (Central 
Station), in FIVE AND THREE-QUARTER HOURS. 

QUEENSTOU'lV to L.ONDON via Dublin and Holyhead, 

in FIFTEEN HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES. 



Baggage Checked Tlirougli from New York to Lon- 
don, both via QUEENSTOWN and LIVERPOOL.. 

At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses from Landing Stage, 
and Special Trains from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station 
and Hotel. 

NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, 

Liverpool, the best and largest— the hotel for Americans. 

SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London when re- 
quisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from America. 

Elegant Vestibule l>ra\ving-Room Cars without extra 
-charge. Compartments with lavatories, and private saloon and 
family carriages for parcies without extra charge. 

Sleeping Cars with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth 
in addition 10 first-class fares. 

DINING- CARS on principal trains and "American Specials." 

Luncheon Raskets at the principal Stations. 

In LONDON, Family Omnibuses can be obtained ; and the 
Enston Hotel (at the Station), noted for its Cellar and its French 
Cuisine, will be found mos" comfortable. 

THE LONDON AND NORTH AVESTERN RAILAVAY 
has NOT abolished Second Class Carriages; passengers to whom 
economy is an object, but who do not wish to travel Third Class, can 
combine comfort with economy by traveling Second Class by this 
line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third Class (Carriages on 
all trains except the Irish Mails to and from Dublin. 

The Company's Agents. Mr. \¥. STIRLING, at Queens- 
town, and Mr. FRED. IV. THOMPSON, at Liverpool, meet 
the American Steamers on arrival, and secure omnibuses, seats, 
saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give general information. 

THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris, 
and principal stations in England, Scotland, Ireland, AVaies, 
and Continent of Europe. 

TICKETS, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels 
can be obtained from the Company's Canadian Agent, Mr. D. 
BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., Montreal, and 

Mr. C. A. BARATTONI, GenU Agent for the U.S. and Canada, 
8 52 Broadway, near Union Square, New York. 



G. P. NEELE, E. MICHEL, 

Superintendent of the Line. Foreign Traffic Superintendent. 

London, Euston Station. /^ rriKtr\i a\7 /> n aa 

G, FINDLAY, Gen I Manager. 



L 







s uora 



RAILWAY. 



A. THORNE, 

Formerly at H. B. Claflin St Co.'s, New 9ork, 

American Representative in England, 

Isondon, ^l^atl^am i^^ Do\?ef I^ailway, 

VICTORIA STATION, LONDON, S. W., 

^ TTENDS the arrival of the principal steamships at 
(2/A. Liverpool and Southampton, and arranges for Special 
Saloon Carriages upon either the North Western and 
Midland Railways from Liverpool, or by the South Western 
Railway from* Southampton to London, and thence to Dover 
from Victoria Station by the London, Chatham and Dover 
. Railway. From Dover to Calais (the shortest sea passage to 
France) by the magnificent S.S. " Calais-Douvres," "Em- 
press," '• Victoria, " and '* Invicta," owned and controlled sole- 
ly by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway Company. 

A. THORNE secures Private Deck Saloons, and from 
Calais to Paris and other prominent points Special Saloons 
and Sleeping Cars as required. 



TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: ' CALDOVER,'' LONDON. 



The London, Chatham and Dover Company's trains run 
from Victoria, St. Paul's and Holborn Stations through the 
prettiest and most picturesque parts of Kent, and passengers 
have the privilege of stopping over at Rochester to visit the 
Cathedral and the Castle, and at Canterbury to view the 
Cathedral (containing the tomb of the martyr Thomas a 
Becket), and other places of interest. 



o'nEii-i:,'s 



SIXTH AVENUE, 20th to 21st ST. 



NEW YORK, 



IMPORTERS AND RETAILERS OF 



Fine Millinery, Dry Goods, 

Ladies', Misses' and Children's Cloaks and Suits, 

GENTLEIVIEN'S FURNISHINGS. 

FINE CHINA, GLASSWARE, etc. 




(&ur (glaif drier department 

Has facilities for handling orders by mail or express that makes 
shopping at a distance a pleasure, guaranteeing perfect satisfaction 
to the customer, or money refunded. Through this I)epart??ient we 
issue, FREE OF CHARGE {to out of town residents only), semi- 
annually, April I St and September ist, a HAND SO MEL V 
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, fully describing a7id illus- 
treating the many lines of goods in our establishment. SEiVD FOR 
A COPY. 

H. O'NEILL & CO. 



6th Avenue, 20th to 21st Street, 



NEW YORK. 



Xakota 4{otel 

michigan boulevard and thirtieth street, 
Ghicago. 




ABSOLtlTeLV FIF^e-PROOF. 

Situated or) Chicago's Fashjionable 
AIBGRKJAD ADD 'boulevard, coverjient fco the cerjtre 
eUROPGAD * of* tlje city, all tljeatres, sbjops, etc. 

PLAn$. : : Especially adapted for tourists. ^ 

C!!uisige ar)d service ugsurpassed. ^ 



ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 



JAMES R. KEENAN. manager. 






P t^ 










ABROAD AND AT HOME 



PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS 



MORRIS PHILLIPS 

EDITOR OF 
TME HO]MK JOURISTAX. 

NEW YORK 







NEW YORK 
Paris Washington Chicago London 



\ 






Copyright 1893, 

BY 

MORRIS PHILLIPS* 



THE ART PRESS, 

IDEMPSEY & CARROLLf 

36 EAST 1 4TH STREET, 

NEW YORK. 



CONT ENTS 



PAGE 

Preface, by Hon. A. Oakey Hall, ... 5 

GREAT BRITAIN. 

London on Wheels, . . . . . ii 

London Hotels, ..... 26 

A Few Boarding Houses, .... 46 

Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, 49 

Railway Travelling in England, ... 59 

The Crypt of St, Pauls, .... 67 

The Queen's Mews, .... 70 

The Finest Square in London • • • 73 

Hampton Court Palace, . . . . 81 

London Oddities, .... 87 

Poverty and Charity in England, , . 97 

Margate, . . . . . 100 

Two Brighton Hotels, .... 108 
A Visit to Bleak House, . . . .111 

Bath and its Attractions, . . . . 116 
Takin* Notes in Edinboro' Town, . . .120 

The Burns Monument, .... 127 
Crossing the Channel . . . .133 

PARIS. 

Paris Hotels, . . ... 134 

Pensions of the First Class, . . . 144 

The Restaurants of Paris, . . 148 

The American Church in Paris, . . . 157 

Musee du Louvre, .... 160 
Musee de Luxembourg, . . . .164 

Musee de Cluny, .... 166 

Hotel des Invalides, ..... 168 

Places of Interest and Time for Visiting Them, . 170 

Pfaces of Public Amusement, . . . 171 

Cab Fares, . . . . . 172 

Tables of Coins, Measures and Distances, . . 173 



CONTENTS— Continued, 

PAGE 

Ambassadors, Consuls, Bankers and Religious Services, 174 

Versailles, . . . . . 175 

En Passant, ..... 177 

ITALY, 

By Sea to Italy, ..... 181 

The Birthplace of Columbus, — Hotels, . . 189 

SWITZERLAND. 

The Hotels of Lucerne, .... 196 

THE UNITED STATES. 
Georgia — 

Savannah, The De Soto, . . . 200 

Thomas ville, . . , . . 203 
A New Southern Resort, . . . .210 
Florida — 

A Cuban City, (Key West), . . 216 

St. Augustine, . . . , . 225 

About Tampa, . . . . 228 
California — 

Monterey, ..... 232 

Santa Cruz, ..... 241 

Pasadena ..... 249 

Los Angeles, . . ... 254 

"The California" in San Francisco, . 258 

Salt Lake City, ..... 262 

Saratoga Springs, . . . . . 265 

. Adirondack Mountains, .... 268 

Tne Thousand Islands, . . . 271 

Niagara Falls, . . . . . 273 

Atlantic City, . . . . « 275 

Chicago and Its Hotels, .... 278 

Railway Travelling in America, . , . 288 

SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 1893. 

Index to Chapters, .... 291 

WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 1893-94. 

Index to Chapters, .... 343 



PREKACE. 



A continuous residence in London of eight years has 
satisfied me that precisely such a book, so far as it 
relates to that city, which my friend and once junior 
legal associate now presents is popularly needed. 

That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even 
to readers who have never been tourists thither, * ' goes 
without saying." Moreover, there are in these pages 
views, comments and sights of the "abroad "and **at 
home " additionally valuable ; therefore I gladly accept 
his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume 
of an American M. P. in the Parliament of Letters. 

He first broached his idea of papers about London at 
a capital luncheon, when meeting together there we 
discussed with palates, forks and wine glasses a tempt- 
ing menu during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host 
Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the 
top of the historic St. James's street. 

We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, 
and I doubt not, that every reader of this volume will 
be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first 
dinner which shall follow its perusal. 

When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the 
inviting shadow of the Northwestern Railway station 
hotel, that is flanked by two smaller inns, with its centre 
pierced by several taverns, or direct from Southamp- 



6 PREFACE, 

ton at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a 
score of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, 
that tourist's earliest question will be, which hospitable 
carava7iserai shall I patronize ? 

His second question will concern his vehicular desires 
for transportation by cab, 'bus or railway.. Other quer- 
ies will suggest themselves regarding the **B[ow,"the 
''Where," the ''Which" and the " Why " of his new 
London surroundings. 

With this volume on shipboard en route : or in railway 
carriage i7i transitu, the tourist will already possess 
answers in his mind to those queries or similar ones 
respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow ; and will not be at 
the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of con- 
testant "cabbies," or of the shady sharpers, who throng 
railway platforms. , . - 

Once well housed in any of the places herein men- 
tioned, and once understanding, by the aid of the en- 
suing pages, how to get about in. the vast metropolis — 
wherein one may ride sixteen miles, from extreme north 
to a suburban south,, and fourteen miles from west 
to east without quitting payed and lighted streets, or 
the continuity of habitations — a traveler's eyes and ears 
will be all the Mentors he will require. 

Of so-called guide books (of which class this is not), 
there are in London and elsewhere abroad confusing 
scores, but the average tourist ought to shun guide- 
books as he .would a Bradshaw, unless he loves char- 
ades, puzzles and conundrums. 

Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his 
footing, the child will walk confidently. This volume 



PREFACE, 7 

serves to give the person who arrives in London or 
Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In the 
parlance of the race course, it is the ** starter." 

On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and 
learn the points of compass; because all enquiries about 
the "■ Where " in London hinge on those. 

The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will 
be found as valuable as they are piquant. He tells of 
certain trips (and tips) on top of a 'bus ; he vividly de- 
scribes how the best way for exploring London is to 
ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses — 
devoting days to the task, or rather pleasure — and 
when, as street after street is passed, reading their 
names, which are always sign-affixed to the turn — a con- 
venience even for residents which, in late, years, is 
strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality 
and prominent buildings and often-referred-to neighbor- 
hoods become fixed in an observer's mind for future 
uses of memory. 

I learned to know London "like a book " — as common 
phrase goes : and, I therefore fully appreciate how much 
this book will serve to teach new tourists how to begin 
to learn London ; how much it will revive pleasant 
memories in former tourists ; how greatly it will instruct 
intending tourists ; how pleasantly it will amuse those 
who may not expect to practically patronize the hotels ; 
how well it will instruct as to London's vehicles and the 
wonders of the English city, which is practically seven- 
teen centuries older than New York. 

But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic 
volume. Not only is it inviting to Americans who wish 



8 PREFACE. 

to know about the " across-the-ocean-f erry, " but it will 
be attractive to the countrymen of the M. P. who may 
travel or who would like to travel Westward, whither 
**the star of E-mpire takes its way." And also to the 
foreign tourist who may for only one week reside, in 
transitu to the States, upon the floating greyhoundish 
hotels which we call steamships. 

Especial attention must be invited to those pages 
which treat of pleasure resorts in the country of the 
author ; over which he has travelled extendedly under 
patriotic, as well as artistic impulses ; and — to coin a 
phrase — in which he brought a mental kodak to bear 
upon scenes and surroundings that, I blush to write it, 
are slenderly known to Americans. They rush abroad, 
tempted by the glamour which antiquity and the Past 
throw over foreign scenes, and they too often neglect 
the beauties and attractions of their own home. To 
such the **At Home" and the ** Abroad" may both, 
prove equally attractive in good and fit seasons. The 
pages in question will be inviting also, in the particular 
mentioned, to the foreigner who may be blase of Euro- 
pean attractions ; and who may be told by this volume 
that in Florida or in California he can find fresh Rivieras ; 
a replica of Carlsbad, in Saratoga ; and in Newport a 
companion to the Isle of Wight during summer, or to 
Sicily in the winter. 

Inasmuch as the old International Exhibition in Hyde 
Park during Prince Albert's time, or in Paris when 
Napoleon the third reigned, or in Vienna, or Brussels, 
made so many American tourists lovers of the fascina- 
tions of those great capitals ; perhaps the Exhibition at 



PREFACE. 9 

Chicago will bring as many, or more European tourists 
to the fascinations proffered by scenes and places in 
the United States. 

To such foreign tourists this volume must prove as 
indispensable in the brain and heart sense as in a bodily 
sense will be the dressing case within the boundaries of 
excursions and travel. Moreover, the volume will in- 
dicate to them where to loiter, or to linger, or to take 
speed, where to abide with pleasure and comfort, and 
whither to go with the full or prudent purse for pur- 
chases and cheer. 

Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the 
wonders, the hotels, the coasts, and the traveling — es- 
pecially toward the Pacific ocean — are equally marvel- 
ous to English M. P. 's and foreign ladies and gentlemen 
of fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes 
and comforts. 

Merely ** turning the leaves," a phrase happily used as 
a heading for book notices by the author of "Kissing 
the Rod" in his World newspaper of London, will at 
once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied. 

A. OAKEY HALL. 

Lotos Club, March i, 1893. 



LONDON ON WHEELS. 



ABOVE GROUND, ON THE GROUND, AND UNDER GROUND. 



THE UNDER-GROUND LINES. 



How the five millions of people in London ' ' get about " 
to their daily avocations and homes is a mystery to those 
who have not made the subject a study. So I have gath- 
ered some information which will throw a little light 
on it. 

Let me start out with the statement that besides the ten 
large terminal stations, like the Euston Square and the 
Midland, both in Euston Road, there are four hundred 
and thirty railway stations within the metropolis, and 
the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred 
and twenty-five millions of passengers. The under- 
ground roads have been in existence for more than a 
quarter of a century, and are found to answer the pur- 
pose admirably of. relieving the over-ground traffic. 
They are convenient, cheap and comparatively quick, 
but not always pleasant. 

They now form a network of rails under the surface, 
and they have been a success from the first. They are 
a great engineering triumph, and may be said to have 
marked a new epoch in the history of London. The act 
permitting the tunneling was passed in 1853. Mr. John 
Fowler conducted the herculean labor, and underneath 
the streets of the busiest of cities, down where the soil 
was honeycombed with other works — gas pipes, water 
mains, drains and sewers — a railway line, costing up- 



12 LONDON ON WHEELS. 

wards of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds per 
mile, was constructed almost without the knowledge of 
those above. For three years — from the spring of i860 
to the beginning of 1863 — two thousand men, two hun- 
dred horses and fifty-eight engines were employed. 
When completed another difficulty presented itself, but 
was overcome by Mr. Fowler, who invented a locomotive 
which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary 
engine, but which, while in the tunnel, emits neither 
steam nor smoke, being so constructed as to be able to 
condense the one and consume the other. 

And yet, after a long ride in the under-ground, you 
may emerge with a headache. 

Of course the cars have to be lighted artificially, and 
they had not learned to use the electric light in them 
when I last was in London, in October, 1892. Gas is a 
poor substitute in such a place. You are forced to read 
your newspaper in a dim light, and the gas consumes 
much of the oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the 
stations, and from openings en route, which are made 
for the purpose. 

Yet you do not get about as quickly in the under- 
g^round as you would imagine. To avoid obstructions, 
and for mechanical reasons, the road takes a circuitous 
route and you frequently must ride a long way around 
to go a comparatively short distance. 

Millions of Londoners, who go direct from home to 
business, seldom get into an under-ground train. There 
are many over-ground lines built on brick arches which 
go to the suburbs, where rents are low ; for every En- 
glishmafi must have his own house, no matter how 
small, which he regards as his " castle." These trains 
are quick and cheap, and you are blessed with ample 
Hght and good air — at least as good as you can get in 
foggy, smoky London. 

On nearly all roads, whether on trunk lines, over- 
ground or undergroimd lines, there are first, second and 



LONDON ON WHEELS, 13 

third-class cars, or " carriages," as they call them. Even 
some omnibuses that ply from the trunk line stations 
also have compartments for different classes ; your 
Englishman is very particular with whom he rides. 

Occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in 
third-class carriages of local or suburban lines, but on 
through trains, say between Liverpool and London, the 
third-class carriages are comfortable, and the travelers 
of a respectable class. 

There is a great difference in the rates, and on a long 
journey it is worth consideration. First-class fare is 
almost double that of third-class. Second-class is neither 
one thing nor the other, and on some lines it has been 
abolished. 

It is an old saying that only princes, Americans and 
fools travel first-class. I don't care under which head 
they place me, so long as they place me in a first-class 
"carriage." That it is more comfortable is incontro- 
vertible, if you'll pardon such a big word. I say this in 
the face of what John vStuart Mill said, that the only 
reason he rode third-class was because there was no 
fourth. 



ELECTRIC LINES UNDER GROUND. 



The Forum in 1891 printed a very good description 
from the pen of Simon Sterne, of the new electric under- 
ground railway in London, and the Sunday Sun soon 
after had an elaborate article on the subject, which, 
with illustrations, occupied nearly a whole page. 

It is a quick and convenient means of locomotion, and 
to accomplish it was a work of wonderful engineering 
skill for which the inventor, Mr. Peter Greathead, can- 
not be praised too highly ; but the riding is by no 
means pleasant. 



14 LONDON ON WHEELS. 

In a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passen- 
gers, yon descend a distance of eighty feet below the 
surface— part of the road running beneath the bed of 
the river Thames. The cars are small and fairly well 
lighted, but they have an unpleasant vibration, and 
although the air is not noticeably impure, there is an 
uncanny feeling with the knowledge that you are bur- 
rowing, as it were, in the bowels of the earth. 

The road, probably an experimental one, is only 
three miles long, extending south from **the monu- 
ment,*' in the city. It has not, thus far, proved a 
success pecuniarily, the cost of construction being so 
great, although no land was purchased except for the 
stations. 



HANSOMS AND FOUR-WHEELERS. 

Street cars are not needed in the city. Nearly all Lon- 
don streets are in as good condition for driving as our 
Central Park roads. There are eight thousand hansoms, 
four thousand four-wheelers, and two thousand omni- 
buses, so that you are not obliged to walk on account of 
the absence of cars. The four-wheeled cabs, or ''growl- 
ers," as they term them, are dilapidated, uncomfortable 
vehicles, which lack new springs, and are dirty both inside 
and out. The horses and the drivers are old and super- 
annuated ; they have all seen better days in private 
carriages or hansom cabs. You never take a four- 
wheeler if you are alone, or if the party consists of only 
two persons. You must engage one if you have a 
trunk, but if you are going to catch a train or boat you 
had better allow a half hour's margin. 

The London cab service is the best and cheapest in 
the world. I say this, notwithstanding that I remember 
hiring a cab in Key West, in the Gulf of Mexico, for a 



LONDON ON WHEELS. 15 

dime. But snch cabs and such horses ! The rate in a 
hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons, no 
fare less than one shilling (twenty-five cents) ; by the 
hour, two-and-six (sixty-two cents). 



HOW THEY DRIVE. 



England, Italy and Gibraltar are the only places I 
know of where they drive to the left. English drivers 
say that by sitting on the right and driving to the left, 
they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels, 
and thus prevent collisions. This left-hand driving 
many years ago educed the subjoined doggerel from a 
London poetaster : 

The rule of the road 

Is a paradox quite : 
If you keep to the left 

You are sure to be right. 

Several thousand members of the Metropolitan police 
force are engaged solely in attending to street traffic. 
Yet with all their vigilance, more accidents occur in Lon- 
don,, proportionately, than elsewhere. London drivers 
are polite and very civil to each other. If an obstruc- 
tion appears in front of a horse, or if for any reason he 
is obliged suddenly to slow up, the driver will imme- 
diately notify the driver in the rear by holding out hori- 
zontally his left arm ; and this sign is passed down from 
one driver to another, until the very end of the line of 
blocked vehicles is reached. 

A popular style of hansom has thick rubber tires, 
which add considerably to ease and comfort in riding. 
So little noise does the vehicle make in going over Lon- 
don's smooth-paved streets, that these cabs are provided 
with bells to warn pedestrians of their approach. The 
interior fittings include a holder for lighted cigars, a 



16 LONDON ON WHEELS. 

box of matches, a small, bevelled mirror on either side 
of the cab, and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a 
rubber tube with a whistle at the end. You lightly 
press the bulb, and in this way whistle to Cabbie on 
top, who hears the summons above the roar of the 
streets, and responds by opening his trap door in the 
roof to receive instructions. 

The law does not permit the drivers of these well-ap- 
pointed and rather luxurious vehicles to charge more 
than do the drivers of the ordinary cabs ; but as the 
new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire, and as they 
are so much superior to the old style, you do not be- 
grudge paying a trifle extra. The drivers pay for these 
improved hansoms sixteen shillings (four dollars) per 
day, except during **the season," when the owners 
exact a guinea per day, about five dollars. 

The speed with which the London cabs are driven is 
something alarming — alarming to a stranger. In New 
York a cab driver has some little regard for the lives 
and limbs of pedestrians ; in Paris the horses are so 
poor and skeleton-like, and go so slow, that pedestrians 
have no fear whatever ; but in London you must look 
out wholly for yourself ; Cabbie will certainly not look 
out for you. If he is engaged by the course, he only 
has his destination in mind. London cab horses are the 
best horses in the world used for such a purpose. With 
rubber tires to the wheels, and the wheels going over 
clean and perfectly smooth roadways, there is nothing 
to obstruct their speed, and the animals go like the 
wind. They and their drivers seem to stand in fear of 
nothing but a policeman, and as London has good laws 
for regulating vehicles, and as these laws are strictly 
obeyed, the mere warning look of a policeman is re- 
spected and obeyed. 

London drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered 
as New York drivers. They do not, as a rule, curse or 
swear at each other as ours do, who are always ready 



LONDON ON WHEELS. 17 

with a foul oath. When a " block " occurs they take it 
good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the 
police as quickly as possible. Our drivers are only 
satisfied when they can take a mean advantage of their 
fellows, get in their way and put them to inconvenience. 
It may be Yankee "goaheadativeness," or the spirit of 
freedom and independence which prompts this show of 
ill-temper, but for my part I prefer the laughing, jocu- 
lar, good-tempered London driver. 

On my last visit to London, where I stayed one month, 
I saw a great many ''blocks," but heard only one 
quarrel between drivers, and that was not at all serious. 
They will, however, chaff each other, saying something 
like this: — *'Oh, comxC, pull yourself together there;" 
or '' I say, country, why don't you learn to drive before 
you come up to London?" The term "up to London," 
by the way, is put to singular use there. Although 
London is in the south of England, you always go *' up 
to London," if you even go from Carlisle, which is in the 
extreme north, on the Scotch border. 



STREET CARS. 



There are no street cars run by the trolley, storage or 
any other electric system ; no cable cars, no horse cars : 
not a track is laid for a surface road in ' * the city " proper. 
Many Americans leave London without ever seeing a 
street car of any kind, and yet in the metropolis one 
thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and 
twenty miles of track, but they are not permitted in 
crowded thoroughfares ; they are confined to the out- 
lying districts. I have only seen them in the east end, 
in the district known as "The Boro' " and near the 
Victoria Station. The street cars are " double deckers " 
and, like the 'buses, they carry more outside than inside 



18 LONDON ON WHEELS, 

passengers, but the number of passengers is limited. 
When the car has reached its limit it will take up no 
more passengers. Every passenger has the right to a 
seat, and, to use a paradoxical phrase, every English- 
man stands up for his right to a seat. 



OMNIBUSES. 



The two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or 
nine thousand horses. The number of miles run annu- 
ally by the omnibuses is five and a half millions, and 
the number of passengers carried not less than forty- 
eight millions. 

Such a heavy, slow-going, cumbersome vehicle as 
the London omnibus could not be used on out rough- 
and-tumble roads. It is poorly ventilated, if you can 
call it ventilated, for the windows are closed and are 
immovable. The only means of ventilation is by the 
door, in the rear, near which everybody tries to get. 
As fast as the choice seats near the door are vacated, 
they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers, and 
the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place, 
which is nearest the front. But in fine weather a man 
never gets inside while there is a vacant seat on top, 
and it is no strange sight to see women occupying out- 
side seats to escape the stifling air inside. 

Nor does wet weather deter an Englishman from tak- 
ing an open air seat. Most Englishmen wear a ' * mackin- 
tosh " in threatening weather and there's a great deal 
of such weather in London. To every seat on the top 
of a 'bus there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron 
to protect the knees, and with an umbrella, which is 
always part of an Englishman's costume, they manage 
to keep perfectly dry. 



LONDON ON WHEELS, 19 

The omnibuses are so freely used for advertising pur- 
poses, the outside is so nearly covered with attractive 
and gaudy signs of business houses that it is exceedingly 
difficult to read or discover the route or destination of 
the vehicle. You may be looking for Blackwall or 
Putney, but you will read ''Pears' Soap," "Nestle's 
Food," or ''Mappin & Webb's Razors." 

The 'buses do not confine themselves to the middle of 
the roadway and allow passengers to pick and fight 
their way through a crowd of vehicles, New York-like ; 
they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to enter or 
leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble. 
Conductors will also leave their perch, approach the 
sidewalk (Anglice, pavement) to consult or advise with 
a prospective passenger who is in doubt as to which 
'bus he should take. Time seems of no importance : 
they are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we 
are. Whether from the excessive competition or from 
some other cause I know not : I do know that public 
servants in England are much more civil and polite than 
they are in this '' free " country. 

There are rules which control London omnibuses, 
and these it is the duty of the police to strictly enforce. 
A 'bus is licensed and allowed to carry only so many 
passengers, and this license or limit must be posted on a 
conspicuous part of the vehicle. The majority are 
" licensed to carry twenty-six passengers ; twelve inside 
and fourteen outside. " ! 

In 1890 the London police force numbered thirteen 
thousand eight hundred and fifty-five men, not counting 
the nine hundred and two officers who form a special 
organization in what is termed ** the city." A consider- 
able part of the time and attention of the police is de- 
voted to governing street traffic. Policemen will watch 
and follow a 'bus for several blocks if they think it 
contains more passengers than the law allows. When 
they are assured that this is the case they go to a magis- 



20 LONDON ON WHEELS, 

trate and lay a complaint, and then woe betide the 
poor driver or conductor who disregarded the law. 

The 'buses make special stops at certain points of 
their route and these seem very long and prove tedi- 
ous to one who is in a hurry ; but if your time is 
valuable you would never take a 'bus. They are 
not allowed to stop when near or nearing these special 
stopping-places, not even if a passenger expresses a 
desire to alight. I remember once, simply for informa- 
tion, asking the driver to stop in the middle of Trafalgar 
square, just as we were passing Nelson's monument, on 
the way to the Strand, cityward. ''Well," said the 
polite but uneducated Jehu, *'you carn't expect me to 
get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare, can you ?" 
meaning that if he pulled up where I indicated he would 
be summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigi- 
lant ** bobby" and be obliged to pay four shillings for 
accommodating me. 

In American street cars or omnibuses — excepting, as 
I remember in San Jose, California, a passenger who 
rides only a few blocks helps to pay the fare of the 
man who rides the full length of the road, for the 
charge to both is the same. It is not so (mis) managed 
in England. The charge there is by distance, about 
one penny (two cents) a mile and you pay according to 
the distance you ride. There are two or three lines of 
omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny (one cent). 
One line runs between Westminster bridge and Trafal- 
gar square. They pick up no passengers between the 
two points. They each carry only twelve passengers ; 
there are no outside seats. 

There is a great deal of pilfering going on among 
omnibus conductors, and drivers also, for they divide 
the spoils ; and the company winks at it, knowing that 
the pay of these men is not large. The company is 
satisfied if it receives a fair average return, but in this 
way it puts a premium on dishonesty. There is no check 



. LONDON ON WHEELS, 21 

against the conductors — no mechanical contrivance to 
record fares. They are supposed to enter every fare 
and the exact amount they receive from each passenger 
on a paper slip placed in a frame, the frame being fast- 
ened to the inside of the omnibus door, but it is only a 
supposition. Passengers are requested to see that the 
amount paid is properly entered, but the request is 
wholly unheeded. It is, to say the least, a very careless 
way of keeping accounts, and invites dishonesty. On 
jnost lines they use tickets showing the amount each 
passenger pays, but the conductor sometimes forgets 
to hand you a ticket. An Inspector wall occasionally 
mount a 'bus to see that all the passengers are supplied 
with tickets, and then the conductor with a treacherous 
memory has reason to be sorry. Drivers are paid eight 
shillings, conductors six shillings, per day, for fifteen 
hours' work. 



ON THE TOP OF A 'BUS. 



The driver is generally a jolly, red-faced fellow and 
very smartly dressed, especially on Sunday. He then 
always wears a " top hat : " in winter it is of black silk, 
in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide mourning band 
to set it off. His coat is often a double-breasted drab 
cassimere, and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a 
large and loud nose-gay. A showy scarf and a pair of 
heavy, tan-colored driving gloves complete his costume. 
He makes quite a picture as he sits on the box, with a 
leather strap across his waist which holds him securely 
in his seat, and a black leather apron to protect the 
lower part of his body from wind and rain. He carries 
a showy whip with a very long and loose thong, with 
the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of 
his leader. 



22 LONDON ON WHEELS. 

The 'bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty. 
He comforts himself with a briarwood pipe unless a 
generous passenger treats him to a cigar, for he is not 
above accepting a small present. 

Leopold Rothschild, who lives on a street through 
which omnibuses pass, has taken a great fancy to these 
men and in the autumn he presents a pair of pheasants 
to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his 
door. 

Everybody who has visited London knows that the 
best way of seeing the city is from the top of a 'bus. 
Get a front seat, next to the driver, hand him a tip in 
the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions. 
You will find that he is intelligent, well-informed on 
every-day subjects, quick-witted and a judge of human 
nature. 

I had a very interesting ride last summer on the top 
of a " Kilburn " 'bus. Some of them start from Vic- 
toria station, and run northwest to Kilburn, through 
some very beautiful thoroughfares, in which reside many 
titled people and some prominent members of London 
society. 

In Grosvenor place, soon after starting from the sta- 
tion, the driver will point out, for instance, the residences 
of the Dukes of Northumberland, Grafton and Portland ; 
that of the Earl of Scarborough, at No. i Grosvenor 
place ; the Dowager Lady de Rothschild ; Sir Edward 
Cecil Guinness ; that of the late Right Hon. William H. 
Smith ; also the homes of a number of members of par- 
liament, more or less well-known. 

The 'bus goes a short distance through Piccadilly and 
passes the residences of Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, 
Lord Rothschild, the Duke of Wellington and the Duke 
of Hamilton, in Hamilton place. 

Then it turns into one of London's most aristocratic 
streets. Park Lane (alongside Hyde Park), where reside 
th^ DuQhe§s of Somerset, the Marquis of Londonderry, 



LONDON ON WHEELS, 23 

Lord Brassey, Alfred Rothschild, Lord Dudley, the 
Countess of Dudley, Lord Grosvenor, cousin to the 
Duke of Westminster, and the Duke of Westminster 
himself. Kilburn 'buses also start from Charing 
Cross, in Duncannon Street, opposite the Charing Cross 
Hotel. 

A 'bus marked ** Hammersmith " will take you west- 
ward, through Piccadilly, past the clubs, the parks, 
some stylish shops, and fashionable residences. You 
will see St. James's Palace and historic Addison Road, 
en route, and you can ride across Hammersmith Bridge. 
You can also go to Kew Gardens and to the famous 
** Star and Garter," at Richmond, by 'bus. 

Here's another very interesting ride. If you are at 
Oxford Circus you will see omnibuses with the horses' 
heads turned eastward, and you will hear the Cockney 
conductor calling out * * Benk, benk. Charing Cross, 
benk." Take a ride with him. The vehicle goes 
through Regent street, Trafalgar Square, the Strand, 
Fleet street, then down Cheapside (which is anything 
but cheap), and Cornhill, where there is neither corn 
nor hill. At the end of Cornhill you see the most 
crowded and bustling crush of vehicles you ever saw in 
your life. To the right is the Mansion House (correspond- 
ing with our City Hall) ; a little further on ' * The Monu- 
ment," with its gold torch at top, looms up; immediately 
in front is The Royal Exchange, with its Peabody statue, 
while to the left stands the demure Bank of England, as 
solid from a financial point of view as it is architecturally. 
On this route you pass and have in view The National 
Gallery, Landseer's lions, several famous hotels and 
theatres, the Law Courts, Temple Bar, the principal 
newspaper establishments, and St. Paul's Church. The 
same 'bus, if you wish to pursue your journey eastward, 
will take you through Leadenhall street and into the 
very heart of Whitechapel — even to Blackwall and the 
docks, if your taste lies in that direction. 



34 LONDON ON WHEELS, 

There is no better way of seeing London than fron» 
the top of a 'bus if you get a seat next to an old and 
wide-awake driver, and the cost is but a few pennies. 
There are one hundred and forty different routes in the 
whole city to choose from. 



THE CITY TRAFFIC. 



One of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street 
called "the Strand," where it is crossed by Wellington 
street. You drive north, through Wellington street, 
past the Lyceum Theatre to get to Holborn, Co vent 
Garden Market and elsewhere ; southward there is 
great traffic over Waterloo Bridge, leading to the Sur- 
rey side of London, while from the east and west come 
continuous streams of omnibuses, cabs, carriages and 
heavy wagons and freight trucks. Policemen stand in 
the middle of the roadway and regulate this enormous 
traffic by merely raising a white-cotton-gloved hand. 
They are calm and immovable, and seem to pay not the 
slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded 
crush of vehicles about them. All come to a standstill 
before the stiff and fearless *' bobby. " When by wav- 
ing his hand he directs that a certain stream of vehicles 
may proceed this way or that, it proceeds, but not until 
he gives permission. 

London Bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare 
in the world. More vehicles and foot passengers cross 
it than pass through any other street, and special pro- 
vision is made for vehicular traffic. In New York, for 
instance, a heavily laden four-house truck or wagon 
may block Broadway for a great distance. If you are 
behind it in a phaeton or light carriage, you must wait 
till the driver in front of you, who may be sullen and 
obstinate, leisurely moves out of the way. No matter 



LONDON ON WHEELS. 25 

in how much haste you are — you may be trying to catch 
a train or an ocean steamer — you must wait. Not so in 
London's most crowded streets. On London Bridge, for 
instance, slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must 
keep to the side near the curb and pavement, while car- 
riages, cabs and light vehicles are allowed the middle 
of the roadway for quick movement. That part of the 
roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface, 
and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for 
the outer wheel of heavy wagons — this only on London 
Bridge and in a few other very busy thoroughfares. 
It is a capital plan, and gives satisfaction to all con- 
cerned. 



ADVICE FROM CHARLES DICKENS. 



But in such a vast city, with such enormous traffic, 
nothing can prevent great loss of life and accidents in- 
numerable from crossing the streets. The point men- 
tioned above is only one of the busy parts of one street — 
the Strand — from another point, down by the Law Courts 
and Temple Bar, it is said that two hundred more or 
less mangled bodies are sent to the Charing Cross Hos- 
pital every year. 

The present Charles Dickens, in his " Dictionary of 
London," thinks it worth while to suggest that the only 
way to go from curb to curb is to make up your mind 
what course you will take, and then stick to it. London 
cabbies will thus divine your intentions. To change 
your mind while crossing is to confuse the cabmen, and 
cause you (so Dickens suggests) to make your return 
journey to America in the form of freight. 

As all vehicles in London are driven to the left, keep 
to the left curb. I found this suggestion of Oakey 
Hall's valuable: "As you leave a curb, look to the 
right ; as you approach a curb, look to the left." 



LONDON HOTELS. 



Until the year 1880 there was only one hotel in London 
that came tip to the expectations of American travelers, 
which compared in size and appointments with Ameri- 
can hotels of the first-class. This was the Langham 
Hotel in Portland place. When the Langham was built, 
nearly thirty years ago, and for several subsequent years, 
as the writer can attest, for he was a guest there in 187 1, 
and has been a frequent visitor there since, the Lang- 
ham was large enough to accommodate all American 
tourists in London. 

This, however, has been greatly changed. Americans 
at that time merely passed through London ; they took it 
as a sort of stepping-stone en route for Paris. In the days 
of the Second Empire, when Louis Napoleon wielded 
the sceptre, and Eugenie set the fashions for the civil- 
ized world, Americans flocked to Paris like so many 
sheep. Then it was said : ** See Paris and die." With 
the downfall of the empire and its accompanying glories 
our compatriots found Paris less attractive, and they 
discovered what everybody knows — that London is, 
in many respects, the most interesting city in the 
world. A presentation to Her Majesty, and hob-nob- 
bing with the Prince of Wales, are the things now most 
desired, and to be in the very height of fashion, one 
must hire a London house for ** the season," — May, June 
and July. 



LONDON HOTELS, 27 

THE LANGHAM HOTEL. 



But this is a digression. The ground, the structure 
and the furnishing of the Langham Hotel, which was 
formally opened by the Prince of Wales in June, 1865, 
cost a million and a half dollars, and it was a wonder 
and a revelation to the English people. Its noble granite 
front of two hundred and twelve feet, its dining hall, 
forty-seven by one hundred and twenty feet ; its music 
room, drawing-room, and its public rooms generally, 
were on such a grand scale that Londoners opened wide 
their eyes in astonishment and admiration. The Lang- 
ham, by liberal outlay of money and constant improve- 
ment, keeps up with the times, and notwithstanding that 
many splendid establishments have been erected within 
the last decade, it retains its place in the very front 
rank. People who have not seen the interior of the 
Langham Hotel, London, since 1890, will notice some 
changes and marked improvements. Heretofore the 
dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark 
and roundabout way, near the drawing-room ; now it is 
approached from ** the office " direct, through a wide and 
handsome ** vestibule," which is flooded with light and 
richly furnished, making an appropriate entrance to the 
beautiful dining-room. The drawing-room, which, for 
its size, its pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one 
of the most attractive salons in England, has also been 
greatly improved. 

Colonel Sanderson, its first manager, an American, died 
many years ago. He was brother to Harry Sanderson, 
famous in his day in New York as a pianist. But English 
capitalists and business men are not given to making 
changes, and so we find that Mr. Walter Gosden, who 
was in the service of the Langham under Mr. Sander- 
son's management, has been for many years and is now 
the manager of the hotel. You can get a nice room with 



28 LONDON HOTELS. 

beautiful outlook, and a very good breakfast here for 
less than two dollars a day. This estimate includes the 
charge for attendance. Address, Walter Gosden, Port- 
land place, Regent street, W. 



THE GRAND. 



During the past twelve years, however, many superb 
buildings for hotel purposes have been erected in the 
English metropolis. Among the largest and most popu- 
lar are the three grouped together, as it were, in one 
short street, Northumberland avenue, which, only two 
blocks long, extends in a southerly direction from Tra- 
falgar square to the banks of the Thames. These are 
the Grand, the Metropole and the Victoria, to name 
them in the order they vvere erected. So popular has 
this cluster of hotels become, and so many well-to-do 
Americans do they attract, that property in the neigh- 
borhood has largely increased in value, and the trades- 
people blame the ** Yankees" for the increased rents 
they have to pay, never speaking of the increased pa- 
tronage which they enjoy from these same ** Yankees." 

The features of the Grand Hotel, the longest estab- 
lished of these three, are well-known, but former pa- 
trons will scarcely recognize the reception-room, which, 
with its new, solid-looking furniture and rich, dark dec- 
orations, is now one of the most attractive apartments 
of its kind to be seen, even in these days of the uphol- 
sterer and decorator. While artistic and costly, it has 
an air of utility and comfort which you will not find very 
often repeated. The drawing-room of the Grand was 
being "done up" during last winter, and "it is now 
just as handsome as the reception-room." Cable, 
Granotel, London. 



LONDON HOTELS, 
HOTEL METROPOLE. 



To American visitors in London the Metropole is 
one of the most attractive of the more recently built 
hotels. Situated in Northumberland Avenue, and being 
replete with the latest conveniences, no hotel in the 
metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was 
first evolved in the L^nited States of the model modem 
caravansary. To dwell upon the subject of the gene- 
ral characteristics of the Hotel Metropole would be 
superfluous ; they and it are too well known to Ameri- 
cans who have visited London, but a short description 
of the celebrated " grand salon " of the Metropole, as it 
has lately been refitted and decorated, will be read with 
interest. 

The scheme of adornment is most tasteful, and per- 
fectly and harmoniously carried out in all details. Two 
shades of maroon in contrast with white and gold are 
the leading features of the ensemble, and the general 
effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and 
pleasing. The wall space between the lofty windows 
and the immense mirrors is covered with stamped 
Utrecht velvet of a soft, natural tint and richness of 
design. The pillars are painted in maroon, with gilt 
capitals, an arrangement of color which is at once novel 
and agreeable to the eye. The patterns on the flutings 
of the beams which support the roof are picked out in 
gold on a white ground. 

The roof panels are covered with dull gold of a pecu- 
liarly restful tint, and the design introduced in various 
portions of the general decoration have an unusually 
aesthetic character. The electric lights, of which there 
are a considerable number, are surrounded by cut crys- 
tal pendants and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the 
illumination. In the center of the room is a palm, the 
leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in circumfer- 



30^ LONDON HOTELS. 

ence. It towers toward the ceiling, and for grace and 
beauty is not easily equalled in Florida, nor greatly 
excelled even in California. Tree palms are placed at 
intervals throughout the spacious room, producing a 
pleasing effect of verdure, and each . of the separate 
tables is adorned with flowers ; while the rich candela- 
bra, with handsome shades placed upon each table, 
afford the subdued light which is preferable, to the 
cruder glare of the former style of lighting. The gen- 
eral coup d'ceil in the grand salon is singularly graceful 
and attractive. 

A large number of public and private banquets take 
place at the Hotel Metropole, this being one of the 
recognized resorts for ceremonies of that description. 

At the Metropole the *' show " apartments are known 
as the Eugenie and Marie Antoinette suites, and they 
have afforded many a descriptive writer material for an 
article. Probably no hotel sleeping chambers equal 
these for rich and costly decoration — for the laces, the 
frescoes and luxurious furniture. The reader will know 
that ample means were at command when told that in 
the selection of site, in constructing and furnishing the 
Metropole, half a million sterling (two and a half mil- 
lion dollars) were expended. And such a success has 
the Metropole proved that the company were encour- 
aged to invest further in hotel property with the result 
that they now own and control three hotels of the first 
class in London, also five other hotels in different parts of 
Europe. Among these are the Metropole at Monte Carlo, 
the Metropole at Cannes, and the Metropole at Brighton, 
the last named being the latest hotel erected by this com- 
pany, and one which will compare in many respects with 
the most renowned hotels of the world. Rooms at the 
London Metropole from three shillings and sixpence to 
one pound per day , breakfast from two-and-six-pence to 
four shillings ; table d'hote luncheon, three-and-six ; 
table d'hote dinner, five shillings— one dollar and a half. 



LONDON HOTELS, 31 

HOTEL VICTORIA. 



The latest constructed of these three hotels is the 
Hotel Victoria. Printed words cannot easily convey to 
the mind an adequate idea of the magnificence of this 
structure. The public rooms of the Victoria are palatial 
in their proportions and appointments, the grand stair- 
case is a marvel of beauty, and the sleeping rooms con- 
tain all the conveniences and contrivances found in 
modern hotels of the highest class. Besides the com- 
forts characteristic of an English house, and the luxurious 
cuisine of a continental hotel, the attention and the dis- 
cipline which rule at the Victoria remind one of an 
American hotel. 

You need have no fear that the cards of friends call- 
ing will not be promptly sent to you : nor is there any 
delay here about the delivery of telegrams, letters and 
packages. Letters are placed in your box up to a cer- 
tain hour of the evening, after that hour they are sent 
to your room. There is a package-room, also a ''pack- 
age clerk," who receives all bundles, signs therefor, and 
enters the same in a book, so that it may be known 
immediately if a package has been received for a guest. 

If a telegram or a card from a caller is received and 
the key to your room is not in its box, thus indicating 
that you are in your room, or at least in the house, a 
servant is immediately dispatched to your room, while 
a little page in livery is started off through all the halls 
and public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room 
number in this fashion, "Number 630, please." If you 
are anywhere under the roof you are sure to be found 
by this excellent method. 

A feature of the Hotel Victoria is a corps of valets. 
There are seven floors in the building, each accommo- 
dating about sixty or seventy guests, and to each floor a 
valet is assigned v/ho performs all the ordinary duties 
of such a servant. Shoes are not carried down below to. 



32 LONDON HOTELS, 

be mixed and confused with hundreds of others, but are 
poHshed by the valet on your floor. The valet also 
enters your room during your absence, removes all the 
clothes he finds hanging or lying about, brushes and 
folds the same and puts them back neatly. It is a con- 
venience, returning to your hotel late in the evening 
and in haste to dress for dinner or the theatre, to find 
your evening suit nicely folded and brushed, ready to 
put on. These and other provisions for the comfort of 
guests indicate the general care in management and the 
close attention to detail which obtain at the Victoria, 
and which have given it its wide reputation. The ap- 
pointments include a billiard-room with five full-sized 
tables. Good rooms on fifth floor, a dollar and a half a 
day. This includes attendance and lights. Breakfast 
from two shillings to three-and-six ; table d'hote lunch- 
eon about the same ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and 
a quarter. Manager, G. Reeves-Smith. Cable and 
telegraphic address, Victoriola, London. 



LONG'S HOTEL. 



There is another trio of London hotels that may be 
grouped* together, on account of their proximity — the 
Hotel Albemarle (Albemarle street and Piccadilly), 
Long's hotel (New Bond street), and the Hotel Bristol 
(Burlington Gardens, between Bond and Regent streets). 
The last two are but a few yards apart. They are all 
comparatively new buildings, and new also in name and 
history, except Long's, which was erected on the ground 
where the first Long's stood for two hundred years. 
Long's, though not of great capacity, has a larger num- 
ber of richly furnished bedrooms than the Ponce de 
Leon, in St. Augustine, Fla. For the beauty of the ex- 
terior and the magnificent surroundings of the Ponce de 
Leon, as well as for the Oriental splendor of its public 



LONDON HO TELS. 33 

rooms, no words of praise can be too lavish. But the 
two hotels, "the Ponce" and Long's, cannot be com- 
pared ; their characteristics are so different. One is like 
a royal palace in the country, the other resembles a 
gentleman's quiet, city home. Long's differs from every 
other hotel I have seen in this respect, that all of its 
bedrooms have rich hangings, and the walls of each are 
decorated with works of art. The apartments are not 
cold and bare, as are the bedrooms of most hotels ; they 
suggest home-like comforts, and are furnished in the 
best taste. The walls of the dining-room at Long's are 
hung with Gobelin tapestry, and on the whole it may be 
called a beautifully appointed hotel. A. Hartmann, 
manager. 



THE BRISTOL. 



They have some very attractive hotels in Boston ; the 
Brunswick, for example, and everybody has heard of 
the beautiful Spanish hotels in St. Augustine, and the 
great Auditorium in Chicago. I have lived at all these 
houses, also at the Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, 
and at California's other famous house, the Hotel del 
Monte, at Monterey, with its 126 acres for a garden. 
There are few or none that are more gorgeous than 
these, and they always come to one's memory when dis- 
cussing the best hotels, but certainly New York City 
cannot boast of a hotel interior that equals in tasteful 
decorations those of the Bristol in London. It is a gem 
in its way. 

A veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of 
the Bristol. It is minus the onyx tables and costly 
paintings you see at the Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine, 
and the " gold " chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many 
American hotels : everything in this room at the Bristol, 



34 LONDON HO TELS. 

from the soft carpet on the floor to the decoration on the 
ceihng, is rich, but also quiet in tone — soothing and har- 
monious. The Royal Academy, the Burlington Arcade 
(a fashionable shopping street) and Piccadilly are all 
within a few hundred feet of the Bristol. The Bristol is 
patronized by such well-known New Yorkers as the 
Vanderbilts, the Twomblys and the owner of the New 
York World, and also by princes of the old world and 
those of blue blood from everywhere. It is nothing if 
not elegant and aristocratic. In the summer of 1892, 
during my visit to the Bristol, among the titled guests 
occupying suites of apartments there was the Due d' 
Alba, brother to the King of Italy. Telegraph or write 
to the Bristol Hotel, Burlington Gardens, London, W. 



THE HOTEL ALBEMARLE. 

Although rebuilt and opened as recently as the begin- 
ning of 1890, the Hotel Albemarle has already gained a 
position and reputation as one of the most select and 
fashionable hotels in London. Its situation, to begin 
with, has undoubtedly had much to do with its imme- 
diate success. It conspicuously fronts the north end of 
the celebrated thoroughfare, St. James's street, in the 
centre of the court quarter of London, and stands at the 
comer of Albemarle street and Piccadilly. No better 
location for a hotel, destined to be at once aristocratic 
and accessible to the traveling public, could have been 
selected. Towering high above the surrounding build- 
ings, the Albemarle, with its double fagade, seventy-five 
feet on Piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street 
from which it takes its name, cannot fail to attract obser- 
vation. It is built of terra cotta in the Francis I. style 
of architecture, and the general effect is both graceful 
and imposing. 



LONDON HOTELS, 35 

The main entrance is in Albemarle street. The in- 
terior of the hotel is furnished and decorated in a 
variety of styles of the Renaissance period. The furni- 
ture and decoration of the dining-room, ladies' drawing- 
room on the ground floor, the fitting and decoration of 
the hall and staircase, are treated in the style of Francis 
I. The style of Henri II. has been adopted for the 
first and second floors ; the third floor is in the style of 
Louis XV., and the fourth in that of Louis XIV. 
Special mention must be made of the " Rubens Room," 
furnished and decorated effectively in the Louis XV. 
style. This apartment derives its name from a fine 
painting which adorns the ceiling, and which is believed 
to be from the brush, either of Rubens himself or of 
one of his pupils. 

The furnishing, fitting and decorating of the Hotel 
Albemarle were effected by the well-known London 
firm of Shoolbred, after designs from a famous French 
artist. The building being of such recent erection, it is 
scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern im- 
provements has been neglected in its construction. 
The most careful attention has been paid to sanitary 
arrangements, and the hotel is lighted throughout by 
electricity. In the two years which have elapsed since 
it was opened, it has quickly become renowned for the 
excellence of its cuisine and service. Its wine cellar is 
one of the choicest in London. 

Royalty, the nobility, and visitors of the highest 
fashion patronize the Hotel Albemarle. During the 
London season, in particular, its rooms are crowded 
with distinguished guests. To Americans, especially, 
it should prove a most attractive resort, if only on ac- 
count of the brilliant and aristocratic neighborhood in 
which it is situated. St. James's Park, St. James's 
Palace and Marlborough House are near at hand. 
Hyde Park, with its "Drive" and "Row," is within 
five minutes' walk. The Art Galleries, the theatres, 



B6 LONDON HOTELS, 

the Opera House, the Houses of Parliament, the clubs, 
Westminster Abbey, and several of the principal mu- 
seums are within the compass of a shilling cah fare. 
The best and most fashionable shops in London are 
situated in the near vicinity, in Piccadilly and in Bond 
and Regent streets, while Oxford street, where many of 
the cheaper shops are to be found, is but a short dis- 
tance off — in short, it may be said that the Hotel Albe- 
marle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life 
and business of London. 

Interest attaches to Albemarle street itself as an his- 
torical thoroughfare. During the last century it en- 
joyed peculiar reputation as a place of residence at the 
west end of the metropolis, and not a little of this old- 
time prestige clings to it still. The Prince of Wales, 
afterwards George the Second, once lived in Albemarle 
street, and when Louis the Eighteenth of France was in 
England in 1814 he made it his place of stay, and held, 
at the now defunct ** Griilon's Hotel," his receptions of 
the leaders of the English nobility. The famous pub- 
lishing house, Murray's, through w^hose doors have 
passed such celebrities in the world of letters as Byron, 
Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Hallam, Tom Moore, Gifford, 
Lockhart, Washington Irving and many others, is situ- 
ated immediately opposite the entrance to the Hotel. 
You would never imagine that it was a publishing house 
or business house of any kind. It looks like an ordinary 
private dwelling, and the only sign on the building is 
one small, dull brass plate on the front wall upon which 
is engraved "Mr. Murray." 

The proprietor of the Hotel Albemarle is Mr. A. L. 
Vogel. He is to be congratulated on the rapid success 
he has met with in his efforts to establish one of the 
best of London hotels. Mr. Vogel has purchased the 
freehold of property adjoining the Albemarle Hotel, 
and a large addition to the hotel will be erected pres_ 
ently, thus affording room for a new salle a manger and 
some thirty more bedrooms. 



LONDON HO TELS. 37 

Mr. Vogel issues as a '* Guide to London " a compre- 
hensive and, in its way, a complete little book of fifty 
pages, illustrated and prettily bound in cloth. It is 
sent free to any address in the world on application. 
The hotel accommodates about one hundred guests. 
Address the Albemarle, Albemarle street. Piccadilly. 
London. 



THE SAVOY. 



A London hotel that has, so to speak, jumped into 
popularity is the Savoy Hotel. It is a new house, on 
the Victoria embankment, with the Strand at its back, 
the public gardens in front and the Thames at its feet. 
It lies between Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge, and 
for a " finger post " it has Cleopatra's needle. There is 
an entrance for foot passengers from the Strand and a 
carriage drive from the embankment directly into the 
courtyard, like that of the Palace Hotel in San Francisco, 
the Grand Hotel in Paris, and the Grand in Brussels. 
In fact, the Savoy is more like a continental than an 
English house, and the owners call it ''the Hotel de 
Luxe of the world." Luxurious in size and appoint- 
ments, the Savoy certainly is. It is not continental, 
however, in its system of charges. Nor for that matter 
is it like any other London hotel, its system being 
American. In all Parisian hotels candles are a separate 
charge : in nearly all European hotels attendance is a 
separate item, and in most hotels in the civilized world 
you must pay extra for baths. Not so at the Savoy. 
When you are told the rate for an apartment every- 
thing is included — everything of course but meals — 
bedroom, lights, attendance and baths. There are sixty- 



38 LONDON HOTELS, 

seven bath rooms in the house, and beneath it there is 
an artesian well four hundred and twenty feet deep. 
The boiling water, as well as the cold, like Jacobs's bottle, 
is inexhaustible, and you can bathe to your heart's con- 
tent. You can hire a room for two persons for two 
dollars a day, or you may engage a suite at twenty 
dollars a day. 

As to table, you may live economically at the Savoy, 
or you may live like a prince — a rich prince. Here are 
the definite and fixed rates at the Savoy : — bedrooms 
for one person, from seven and sixpence (nearly two 
dollars) per day ; for two persons, ten-and-six ; suites 
of apartments containing sitting-room, bed-room, dress- 
ing-room and private bath-room, from thirty shillings 
per day. Breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six ; 
luncheon, four shillings ; dinner, seven-and-six ; dinner 
served in private rooms ten-and-six. Guests' servants 
are boarded at six shillings per day ; price of room 
according to location. If you want to live in style and 
enjoy, at its best, life in London, engage a suite at the 
Savoy, including parlor and bath-room, with private 
lobby and private balcony overlooking the Thames. It 
makes no difference what floor you select : there are 
''lifts" in the house, so large and luxurious as to be 
justly called ''ascending rooms:" they run day and 
night. The rooms on the top floor are equal in height 
of ceiling to those on the lower floors, and the furniture 
is of the same quality throughout the house. General 
manager, C. Ritz ; acting manager, L. Echenard. 



HOTEL WINDSOR. 



The Hotel Windsor is in Victoria street, only five 
minutes' walk from Victoria Station, two minutes' walk 
from the American Legation, a few steps from West- 



LONDON HOTELS. 39 

minster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, the Houses of 
Parliament, St. James's Park and the Home Office. The 
dining-room of the Windsor is an especially cheerful 
apartment and it overlooks the pretty garden of a 
church. The great plate glass windows in this dining- 
room are larger than the windows in any other hotel, 
so large that they are only moved up or down by ropes 
to which handles are 'attached. They let in plenty of 
daylight, almost as much as streams freely into the 
dining-room of the Hotel Pasaje, Havana, which opens 
on the street, and which is not encumbered with win- 
dows at all. 

The Hotel Windsor is not only kept by a ''proprietor " 
in the accepted American use of that term, but the 
furniture, the building and the ground on which it 
stands are owned in fee (" freehold," as English people 
call it), by two men, J. R. Cleave and V. D. B. Cooper, 
the first named being the actual and active manager of 
the house, who makes it his home, the title of the firm 
being J. R. Cleave & Co. The premises include fifteen 
thousand square feet of ground, which, without the im- 
posing ten-story stone structure upon it, is valued at 
forty-five thousand pounds sterling — not far short of a 
quarter million dollars. 

The Windsor is fortunate in its location. A shilling 
cab takes you to any theatre or to the shopping centre, 
and 'buses pass the door every minute for Charing 
Cross, Trafalgar square and the Strand. Time, ten 
minutes ; fare, two cents, inside or out. 

There is a lift at the Windsor of modern style ; the 
house is lighted by electricity ; there are Turkish and 
swimming baths on the lower floor ; to avoid disagree- 
able odors the kitchen is at the top of the house ; the 
bedrooms are scrupulously clean, the cuisine and wines 
are of the best quality, and the charges moderate. You 
can live at the Windsor, if you prefer it, on the Ameri- 
can plan — rate, about four dollars a day. The European 



40 LONDON HOTELS, 

plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals — a 
delicious lunch for sixty cents : choice service. 

If this is the description of a model hotel, worthy in 
every respect of the best patronage, *' that," as humorist 
Gilbert says, *' is the idea I intended to convey." The 
Windsor was built about thirteen years ago. Address, J. 
R. Cleave, manager, Victoria street, Westminster, S. W. 



BAILEY'S HOTEL. 



Americans going to London for business, intent upon 
shopping, theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing, 
find hotels in the Strand, or hotels near Trafalgar square, 
very convenient. Reference is made to the Grand, the 
Metropole, the Savoy, and the Victoria, in their alpha- 
betical order. The Langham, in Portland place, and 
those select houses near Burlington Gardens and Picca- 
dilly — Long's, the Bristol, the Burlington and the Albe- 
marle, are also central, convenient, and in a fashionable 
district. 

If, however, a family is going to London for a pro- 
tracted stay and the desire of their hearts is to be in an 
ultra-fashionable locality, where the aristocracy reside, 
and where quiet and selectness reign and salubrity is 
assured, then Bailey's Hotel, on the corner of Glouces- 
ter and Cromwell roads, is recommended and recom- 
mends itself. If you are in haste and do not care for a 
cab, the "underground " will take you from ** the city " 
or from Charing Cross to Bailey's Hotel in fifteen min- 
utes, fare ^w^ cents, third class ; fifteen cents in a first- 
class carriage. 

When you reach Gloucester Road Station you are at 
Bailey's Hotel, and within a few minutes walk of Hyde 
Park, Kensington Gardens, Cromwell Gardens, Stan- 
hope Gardens, Queen's Gate Gardens, etc., etc. Near at 



LONDON HOTELS, 41 

hand are the Albert Memorial, Albert Hall, and South 
Kensington Museum. 

There is no attempt to lead people to believe that very 
low prices prevail or that Bailey's is a " cheap house " 
in any sense of the term. On the contrary, you pay for 
the best, and you get it. You can live at Bailey's Hotel 
on the European plan at about the same rate as at an 
American hotel of the first-class. Single rooms rent at 
about one dollar per day ; double rooms from a dollar 
and a half ; suites from four dollars and a half upward. 
These are the winter rates. They are a trifle higher 
during '* the season." 

As at all English hotels, breakfast varies in price f.rom 
fifty cents to seventy-five cents ; luncheon from sixty 
cents ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and twenty-five 
cents. Of course it is English, and there are some ex- 
tras. It is a rule at every English hotel, except the 
Savoy in London, to make a separate charge for ** at- 
tendance, " about thirty-five cents per day for each per- 
son, and Bailey's conforms to the rule. No American 
likes it and it seems odd, but it is the custom in England, 

and when in Rome . Four dollars per week is the 

charge for each member of the canine race. 



BERNERS HOTEL, OXFORD STREET. 



London is a pretty large town, and those hotels whose 
names are so much in men's mouths, such as the Grand, 
the Victoria, the Savoy, the Langham, the Metropole, 
do not include the entire list of excellent houses. The 
Berners Hotel is not so grand as these nor near so large ; 
but for that reason, and because its prices are moderate, 
it commends itself to many. Berners Hotel is intended 
for and is largely patronized by families. Berners street is 
a quiet, narrow street running off from Oxford street and 
is but a few steps west from fashionable Regent street. 



42 LONDON HOTELS. 

The location is not without historical interest. In 
Berners street Theodore Hook played the most famous 
of his many practical jokes. In t4ie early days of the 
century practical jokes were more in favor than they 
are now. " A practical joke is a peasant's joke," says 
the Italian proverb — '' Gioco di mano gioco villano.'' But 
allowance must be made for the animal spirits which 
prevailed "in the hot days when George the Fourth was 
king/* and the ** Berners Street Hoax" was planned and 
carried out by Theodore Hook on such a large scale that 
its very completeness removed it from the category of 
ordinary hoaxes. 

The *' Berners Street Hoax " was simple enough in its 
conception. It consisted in ordering two hundred trades- 
men to send at the same time goods of the most varied 
kinds to a particular house in Berners street (No. 54) ; 
the originator of the little comedy having meanwhile 
secured for himself a post of observation in a house im- 
mediately opposite the scene of action. 

The house, No. 6, where the Berners Hotel has been 
established for the last half century, is associated less 
with comic than with dramatic incidents. Here, in this 
very house, lived Fauntleroy, the banker ; and here, 
according to a legend which may well be founded on 
fact, he concealed, after committing his great forgery, 
a considerable portion of the proceeds ; lodging solid 
bullion behind wainscoting, up chimneys, and in odd 
corners of secret cupboards. The ancient house, with 
its abundant woodwork, its carved cornices, and its 
painted ceiling, transports one to the past ; though the 
modern furniture and the newly-invented appliances of 
all kinds soon recall the dreamer to the time in which 
we live. 

The building also has a history, and is old, but the 
apartments and the appointments are up to date. The 
house was recently "done over" (London lingo) by 
By water & Co., a celebrated English firm of decorators. 



LONDON HOTELS 43 

It is within walking distance of many places of amuse- 
ment and within a shilling cab fare of the principal rail- 
way stations. 

The charges at Berners Hotel are moderate ; single 
bedroom from two and six (sixty-two cents) per day ; 
breakfast from one and six ; luncheon from one shilling ; 
table d'hote dinner, three and six — less than one dollar. 
Visitors are also received on boarding terms at a special 
rate, from nine shillings per day, including room, attend- 
ance, breakfast, luncheon and dinner (six courses) at 
table d'hote. Children under ten years ^t half price. 
Board and lodging for visitors' servants, six shillings 
per day. George Augustus Sala, himself a famous bo7i 
vivant, is chairman of the company ; Thomas Ward, a 
man of wide experience in hotel management, is the 
resident director, and he is well supported by a most 
capable manager. Mail address, 6 and 7 Berners street, 
Oxford street, W. ; cable address, Berners Hotel, London. 



IN JERMYN STREET. 



A couple of small, quiet hotels in Jermyn street — a 
street which runs parallel with Piccadilly — may be found 
pleasant by families or by ladies without escort. They 
lack that bustle and noise to which some people object, 
and they are not "company hotels," that is to say the 
head and front of each is always visible and approach- 
able. Mr. Rawlings is proprietor of the Rawlings Hotel, 
and Mr. Morle with his family keeps and manages the 
house which bears his name. 

While Jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are 
quiet, plenty of life and gayety are to be had near at 
hand. Bond street and Regent street, two of the most 
fashionable shopping streets of London, are hard by, 
and the parks and palaces are within walking distance. 



44 LONDON HOTELS. 

Rawlings' Hotel is famous for its cuisine, and a feature 
at Morle's is that you can arrange to live on the Ameri- 
can plan if you prefer, the charges being *' inclusive, " 
as they call this plan there, and very moderate withal. 
Both these houses are homelike and comfortable, but 
they are not strictly fashionable. 

Do not confuse Morle's in Jermyn street with Morley's 
in Trafalgar square. Morlpy's has a magnificent out- 
look, with the noble Nelson Monument, Landseer's lions 
and the playing fountains in front, and the dinner served 
at Morley's is of the best quality, but the house is very 
old and rather worn, notwithstanding its white and 
attractive exterior. 



THE FIRST AVENUE. 



Don't be prejudiced at the sound of '* First Avenue 
Hotel." It is in Holborn, a bustling, busy thorough- 
fare, but which has nothing in common with our First 
avenue in New York. The Gordon's Hotel Company 
erred in naming the house ; they possibly meant to 
say Fifth Avenue Hotel, for the First Avenue Hotel 
ranks probably with our Fifth Avenue Hotel in New 
York, only the First Avenue is not an old house. Hol- 
born is one of London's main arteries, a continuation, 
east, of Oxford street. The First Avenue is not very 
far from St. Paul's and Newgate. The former being a 
noble cathedral, you will wish to get into ; the latter 
being a prison, you will wish to keep out of, unless for 
a temporary visit. 

OTHER HOTELS. 



Another hotel in Holborn which may be commended 
is the Holborn Viaduct Hotel, near the city station of 
the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. 



LONDON HOTELS, 45 

A pleasant house in High Holborn is the Inns of 
Court ; neither fashionable nor grand, but select and 
comfortable ; largely patronized by English people. 
Terms moderate. The main entrance is in Lincoln's 
Inn Fields. 

There are some famous old houses farther east, in the 
city, in such a bustling, busy quarter as St. Martin's le 
Grand, near the General Post Office. The Queen's 
Hotel in this neighborhood is best known. 

Not far from this locality is the Manchester Hotel, in 
Aldersgate street. The proprietor of the Manchester 
Hotel especially solicits American patronage. 

Those who desire to make frequent visits to the Houses 
of Parliament and that grand old pile, Westminster 
Abbey, will find the Westminster Palace Hotel conven- 
ient. It has an imposing front, in Victoria street, West- 
minster, almost opposite to the Abbey. Within five 
minutes' walk of this hotel are the Home Office, St. 
James's Park, the Horse Guards, Westminster Bridge, 
leading to the Surrey side of London, the United States 
Legation, and the Victoria Station of the London, Chat- 
ham and" Dover Railway. The favorite and well kept 
Hotel Windsor, referred to elsewhere, is also in Victoria 
street, and still nearer to the Station and the Legation 
before mentioned. 

Convenient to Hyde Park are the Alexandra Hotel, 
1 6 to 21 vSt. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner, and the 
Hyde Park Hotel. The latter is at the west end of Ox- 
ford street, in Hyde Park Place, near the Marble Arch. 

Claridge's Hotel used to be considered "the crack" 
house of London, and it is still patronized by the nobility, 
members of the diplomatic corps and by royalty. Nos. 
49 to 55 Brook street, Grosvenor Square. 

The Hotels connected with the railway stations are 
large structures, sc^lidly built, fire-proof, as a general 
rule, and fitted up with every modern contrivance. They 
are desirable stopping places if you arrive late at night 



46 LONDON HOTELS, 

or if you intend to make an early start by rail, from the 
station, in the morning. They were erected for that 
purpose, and they serve it admirably. 

There are very many reputable hotels in London 
which are worthy of the best patronage, detailed refer- 
ence to which, in this limited space, it would not be pos- 
sible to make. 

If none of the hotels described or alluded to in the fore- 
going list suits your plans and purposes, consult friends 
who have had experience in such matters. But don't 
go, hap-hazard, into the smallest and oldest London 
hotels of whose very existence you never heard. Some 
of them are unpleasant, as residences ; others are un- 
healthy. If your stay in London is short there is every 
reason why you should put up at the best houses. If 
you make a protracted visit and desire to economize, go 
to a boarding house or take lodgings. You will see signs 
in windows all over London : hire rooms and eat where 
your fancy or purse directs. London housekeepers are 
glad to ** eke out " by letting rooms in the summer, and 
with a small tip now and then to the maid, life can be 
made very comfortable in London lodgings. 



A FEW BOARDING HOUSES. 



There are plent}" of first-class boarding houses where 
Americans are welcome. Five or six come to mind — 
Mrs. Pool's, No. 20 Bedford place ; Mrs. Goodman's, No. 
13 Montague place ; Mrs. Philp's, No. 6 Montague place ; 
Mrs. Wright's, No. 15 Upper Woburn place, and Mr. 
Cooper's, No. i Bedford place, Russell square. Mrs. 
Philp is an American whose husband keeps the Cock- 
burn Hotel in Glasgow ; and there is a Philp's Cockburn 
Hotel in Edinburgh. Mrs. Philp's drawing-room is 
beautiful, the dining-room cheerful, and there is a pretty 



LO N DON HO TEL S, 47 

garden which is backed by the walls of the British 
Museum, so Mrs. Philp is easily found. 

Those who want to live economically but comfortably 
are recommended to the handsome private hotel or 
pension of Mrs. Marcus Pool, 2.0 Bedford place, Russell 
square. This is a pleasant and convenient quarter of 
the city — quite handy for the British Museum, not far 
from Charing Cross, and a shilling cab fare to railway 
stations and places of amusement. The house is fur- 
nished and appointed on a liberal scale ; the drawing- 
room is large and cheerful ; the bedrooms are luxuri- 
ously fitted up in the best taste, and they have a 
pleasant outlook. There is a Broadwood piano, also a 
new billiard room, with a table from the famous firm of 
Bennett. The house has a refined, home-like air, well 
representing the character of Mrs. Pool and her charm- 
ing daughter. French and German are spoken. The 
terms at the Pool pension are from two dollars a day, 
which include breakfast, table d'hote dinner and attend- 
ance — '* everything inclusive." Those are the terms 
**in the season;" the winter rates are lower. The 
cuisine is of the substantial English quality, but not 
heavy. At Pool's pension you are sure to meet culti- 
vated and select people. Those w^ho have been Mrs. 
Pool's guests appear perfectly satisfied ; for they return 
again and again. Mr. Cooper keeps a good house and 
he caters to people accustomed to pleasant surroundings. 
He is a typical Londoner of the middle class — honest, 
blunt and out-spoken. Mrs. Lucy H. Hooper, wife of 
the American Mce-Consul in Paris, recommends No. i 
Bedford place. Mrs. Hooper makes it her stopping place 
when she is in London. 

"American Family Home." — This is the title of a 
London establishment which meets with especial favor 
among fastidious tourists. It is known as the Demeter 
House, and is at No. 13 Montague place, Russell Square, 
W. C, a boarding-house district, but quiet, select and 



48 LONDON HOTELS, 

healthful. Montague Place is not far from Oxford 
street ; in two minutes you get a penny 'bus which goes 
to Charing Cross. Montague place is backed by the 
British Museum, between which and the Demeter House 
are airy and attractive gardens. The house is large and 
the rooms spacious and beautifully fitted up ; the hand- 
some drawing-room measures thirty feet square. Mr. 
and Mrs. A. Goodman have kept the Demeter House 
for about six years. They aim to combine the comforts 
and freedom of a refined home and the advantages of a 
hotel, but with less expense. There is accommodation 
in the Demeter House for twenty-two guests. Many 
leading American families make this their home during 
their annual visits to London. It can be recommended 
to people of refined tastes accustomed to neat, clean 
and well-appointed houses. The rates are from six to 
eight shillings per day for breakfast (meat breakfast) 
and dinner ; no charge for attendance. In mid-day you 
are occupied in London in sight-seeing, so luncheon is 
not included in the figures quoted. 

Put down "No. 15 Upper Woburn place, Tavistock 
square," and note that it is not far from Euston station. 
It is a quiet street. The house is kept by an English 
woman of refinement, Miss Mary Wright and her sister, 
and it may be commended as a pleasant Christian 
home, where grace is said before meals. 

Of these boarding houses, like all the hotels mentioned 
in this article, the writer speaks from his own knowledge 
and experience. But don't count on getting accommo- 
dation in London hotels in the season, without making 
previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of 
your arrival, or you may be disappointed. 



WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON, 

AND WHERE NOT TO LUNCH. 



It may be set down at the outset that there are 
no restaurants in London equal to Delmonico's in Fifth 
avenue, or the Cafe Savarin in the Equitable Building, 
New York, and no London restaurant serves a table 
d'hote dinner at any price equal in quality and style of 
service to that furnished at the select and elegant 
" Cambridge," Fifth avenue and 33d street, New York. 

Neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will 
compare with Mouquin's, in Ann street, where everything 
is cooked to a turn, and where even a fastidious gour- 
met need not find fault. There are two or three Italian 
places in Regent street where they serve a ** Chateau- 
briand," enough for two persons, for one dollar, but no- 
where do you get a dish of macaroni that is more pala- 
table than at Mouquin's and neither in London nor 
Paris do you get as good Burgundy for the price as 
Mouquin's Beaujolais — half bottle, forty cents. 

The foreign halls are more richly gilded, and the fur- 
niture is of finer texture, but if you are looking for as 
good food and as well served at that at Mouquin's, at 
Mouquin's prices, you will look in vain. 

In the price of wines, however, no first-class hotel or 
restaurant anywhere that I know of sells wines as low 
as the manager of the Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Cal. 
In France, on the Swiss border, I found vin ordinaire 
almost as cheap as water, in the small inns. The Hotel 
del Monte, please bear in mind, is a superbly appointed 
and grand establishment, and they serve you a half 



50 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 

bottle of good California Zinfandel for fifteen cents. 
But then this hotel company own their own vineyards, 
and make no profit on wine served at table. It is a sort 
of '' sample " or advertisement for their wines. 

** The Aerated Bread Shops," which are as *' thick as 
flies " in London, are probably good enough places to 
drop into if you are in a great hurry, for a cup of coffee 
or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry, digestible seed cake. 
If you abhor marble tables, if you must have a serviette 
and you would avoid a crowd and mixed company, keep 
out of the *' aerated bread shops," and by the same 
token and by all means keep out of the Lockhart lunch 
shops. The ''aerated bread shops" are tolerable ; the 
others are not. 

Much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread 
shops or Lockhart's lunch shops is the confectionery and 
cake counter of William Buszard, 197 and 199 Oxford 
street, where everything is clean and inviting. A sim- 
ilar place of the first-class is that in "the city," of 
Alfred Purssell & Co., No. 80 Cornhill, E. C. The pro- 
prietor of this establishment is related to the late Wil- 
liam Purssell, founder of the famous restaurant in Broad- 
way which still bears his name. There are several pleas- 
ant places in and near Piccadilly where you may obtain 
a cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich, just 
enough to ''stay the appetite." One of the best of 
these is Callard's, 146 New Bond street, but even in 
this neat and clean little shop they don't know what a 
serviette is. 

The Tivoli restaurant, up stairs, connected with the 
Tivoli Music Hall, is in the Strand, just East of Charing 
Cross. ' ' La Haute Cuisine Frangaise, " as they term it, is 
in charge of a famous chef, M. Gerard. A Table d'Hote 
Luncheon, at 2s. 6d., from 12 to 3 ; Parisian dinner, at 
5s., from 6 to 9, served in the Flemish Room. 

Londoners are proud of their Holborn Restaurant, 218 
High Holborn, where the glass and the brass and the 



WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 51 

marole columns are resplendent and imposing, and 
where you are regaled with vocal music (English glees) 
during the dinner hour, but the meals are not daintily 
served ; the butter is not cold and the plates are not 
warm, and unless you order a costly meal at the Hol- 
born Restaurant, the waiter may wait on you with con- 
descension. Dinner, three-and-six. 

There is a Washington Restaurant in London, 203 
Oxford street, not far from Oxford Circus. Its title 
attracts Americans, although the proprietors are Italians, 
Costa and Magri. Great stress is laid on the large and 
choice stock of wines here, and the cellars, as I know 
from examination, contain some good brands. There 
is not much style at '*The Washington," but on the 
other hand the prices (for food) do not reach the top 
notch. 

The elegant Hotel Bristol, 17 Cork street, Burlington 
Gardens, is open as a restaurant in the middle of the 
day. This now is the place for a gourmet or an epicure. 
The dishes are served in perfect style and the wines are 
the choicest. A four-shilling table d'hote luncheon is 
served daily at the Bristol. This price, of course, does 
not include even a ** small bottle. " 

If you are in ''the city," in the neighborhood of the 
Bank (the Bank of England) and you have a desire to 
see how and where some of the bankers, brokers and 
merchants lunch, step into the " Palmerston Restau- 
rant," Palmerston Buildings, a solid looking structure, 
at 34 Old Broad street. I don't know exactly, but I 
believe it is kept by the company which "runs" the 
aristocratic Hotel Bristol in Burlington Gardens. No 
matter who keeps it, The Palmerston is well kept, and 
it is called "the largest one-floor restaurant in the 
world." Neither do I know what is meant by that re- 
mark since there are several floors besides a cold 
luncheon counter, dining rooms for ladies, grill room, 
reading room, supplied with newspapers from all parts 



52 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 

of the world (in which, of course, you will find The Home 
Joicrnat), smoking and billiard rooms, even a hair- 
dressing saloon and bath rooms. The Palmerston is 
worthy its great name. It is in the city proper and 
well worth a visit. 

Ladies who are in the neighborhood of Westminster 
Abbey or who have business at the American Legation, 
are recommended to the Army and Navy stores, in 
Victoria street, opposite the Windsor Hotel, where a 
dainty lunch is served at a very moderate sum. You can 
do your shopping in the same large establishment. They 
sell everything, from a poached ^^% to an Axminster car- 
pet or a wedding outfit. The Army and Navy stores is on 
the cooperative plan. To gain entrance you must either 
use a member's ticket number or use good judgment. 

Gatti is a well-known name in the Strand, where the 
Gattis have two large, gaudily furnished restaurants, 
one of which extends to King William street. The 
Gattis are also owners of the Adelphi Theatre, where 
you may always enjoy a drama — if you enjoy melo- 
drama. The Gattis are Swiss, and one of the brothers 
is a legislator in one of the Swiss Cantons. They com- 
menced in a small way, in the east end of London, many 
years ago and made a reputation for their ices. They 
long since moved to the west end, where they increased 
their business and they now conduct a thriving trade. 
All Gatti's waiters are foreigners. They are a talkative 
set, and some people might prefer that their linen be 
nearer the color of snow. 



IN REGENT STREET. 



If you are in the neighborhood of Piccadilly Circus, 
a fair place to get luncheon at a fair price is " the Flor- 
ence " in Rupert street, Regent street. It is an Italian 



WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON, 53 

restaurant ; the lunch is served table d'hote and the 
price is one shilling and sixpence. But there is no profit 
to the restaurateur in the mere lunch : you are expected 
to order wine — indeed that is the expectation in all 
English restaurants and hotels — all hotels that are not 
temperance houses. At the Florence you can get din- 
ner from six to nine, for half-a-crown — sixty-two cents — 
and you order wine of course. 

If you are fond of high living, and you don't mind 
paying for it, take a meal in the middle of the day or early 
in the evening at the Hotel Continental. It is in the 
lower part of Regent street, on the corner of Waterloo 
place, within the shadow of the Duke of York column. 
It was one of the first houses in London to adopt the 
French style in name — Hotel Continental in lieu of 
Continental Hotel — and it was one of the first to serve a 
first-class dinner in the French style. The reputation 
for its cicisine is second to none, and the hotel prides 
itself upon the accuracy of the names and vintages of 
the wines supplied. It has the monopoly in London of 
that famous brand of champagne, '' Medaille cf Or," 
which received the grand prize in the French Exhibition 
of 1878 over sixty other competing wines. Cigarettes 
made of the finest tobacco are manufactured expressly 
for the hotel in Constantinople and Salonica. 

There is always a very gay scene in the Hotel Contin- 
ental supper room after the theatres close ; it might be- 
come too lively in the early hours of the morning, but 
the police regulations oblige such places as the Contin- 
ental to close their doors at one A.M. Dinner from 
seven-and-six to twelve-and-six, without wine, of 
course ; for although you are in the Continental you 
are not on the Continent. A. Y. Wilson is the manager. 

More attention is given to " the inner man " in London 
than in any other place I wot of. They seem to live to 
eat there, not eat to live, and yet some one has noted 
this difference — you eat dinner in London, while in Paris 



54 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 

you dine. Mention the subject of restaurants in London 
and the majority will ask you, ''Have you dined at 
Verrey's in Regent street? " Yes, I've been to Verrey's 
and I found it very expensive, and very gloomy, not to 
say oppressive. You are in the middle of the house and 
the room is lighted from a skylight. It is not cheerful. 

Near Verrey's, at 227 Regent street, is Elphinstone's, 
an attractive "pastrycook shop," where cakes, coffee, 
ices or a sandwich are served quickly and neatly. 

Blan chard's, ''The Burlington," 169 Regent street, is 
patronized by the higher classes. Dinner from five 
shillings to twelve-and-six. No higher priced dinner in 
London. 

For a healthful, nicely-served meal, whether it consist 
of a mutton chop and a boiled potato or a dinner of 
several courses, much better than most of the establish- 
ments in Regent street is the Cafe Royal, at No. 68 
Regent street. In the ' ' Grand Cafe Restaurant Royal, " 
where dinner is served, prices rule high. For luncheon 
go into the " Grill Room " of the Cafe Royal. You will 
find the rates reasonable, the food of the best, the ap- 
pointments on a grand scale, and the service satisfac- 
tory. These remarks will also apply to "The Monico," 
at Piccadilly Circus and Shaftesbury avenue. 

The St. James Restaurant, which extends from Picca- 
dilly to Regent street, with entrances on both streets, is 
a large, showy place, with plenty of glitter about it, and 
wearing the big-sounding title of St. James Hall. The 
rates are not low, the food is not of the choicest quality, 
the service is not of the best, and the waiters may over- 
charge you unless you watch them closely. The charge 
for washing- your hands at the St. James, be you a pa- 
tron or not, is two-pence. This is a regular charge 
made by the proprietors, but if you don't also fee the 
man who hands you a towel or fills your basin, you 
might get a cold reception down-stairs the next time you 
call, and you may fill your own basin. 



WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 55 

At the Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus, you can take 
your choice ; go up stairs, and the charges are higher ; 
down in the basement the same dishes are served at a 
lower price. To quote their bill, ** table d'hote three- 
and-six, le diner Parisien, five shillings." 

English people when they are thirsty drink beer, wine, 
or something stronger ; Americans who live in cities, 
American women at least, prefer something weaker, 
soda water, for instance, which, charged with gas, 
looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a 
highly polished, silver-plated fountain. Not until re- 
cently could American taste in this matter be gratified 
in London. Now there are two ' ' American confection- 
eries " kept by Fuller, one, the principal establishment, 
at 206 Regent street ; the other, at 358 Strand, both 
central locations. The first is close to Oxford Circus 
and not far from the Langham Hotel. At Fuller's you 
can get ice-cream soda and * * caramels fresh every hour. " 
In fact, on a pleasant summer day Fuller's, in Regent 
street, will remind you of Huyler's on Broadv/ay, and 
if you are a New Yorker, you will meet many familiar 
faces there. If you retain a juvenile pe7ichant for pea- 
nuts, that taste can also be gratified at Fuller's. 



THE GRILL ROOM OF THE GRAND. 



So many of the transient guests at hotels in London are 
out shopping and sight-seeing, that they generally take 
only breakfast, or, at most, breakfast and dinner, at their 
hotels, always lunching wherever convenience may 
permit. The meals at European hotels being usually a 
separate charge, the hotel is a sufferer by this custom, 
so that at some, if not most houses, it is understood 
that, if you take your meals out, a higher charge will be 
made for your apartment. The directors of the Gordon 



56 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON, 

Hotels, however, have a restaurant of their own in the 
Grand Hotel, which is so attractive that it not only keeps 
together the regular guests, but allures **the outside 
world," and thus the *' Grill Room" of the Grand has 
become famous in London. 

While within and a part of the Grand Hotel, it is not 
reached by the main entrance in Northumberland ave- 
nue. It is at the eastern end of the building, around 
the corner, in the Strand, and is in what we would call 
in New York a basement, but no ordinary '' basement " 
is this, and the staircase leading to it is anything but 
ordinary. The Grill Room of the Grand is a well- 
lighted, cheerful apartment, richly carpeted and finely 
furnished. The chairs are comfortably upholstered, the 
walls are gorgeous with polished tiles, the table furni- 
ture is dainty, the food is of prime quality, and the 
tariff of charges moderate. 

Don't be surprised at the charge, two-pence, for wash- 
ing your hands in the Grill Room lavatory, and unless 
you occupy a room, the charge for use of lavatory in 
the hotel proper is three-pence ; but it is worth half a 
crown merely to see the lavatory, or rather the staircase 
and landing leading to it, so beautiful are the colored 
marble fountain, the eastern rugs, the fernery and the 
Oriental lamps, with which this lower part of the house 
is decorated. The view of this lower part from the 
marble staircase on the main floor has been called fairy- 
like ; it is certainly very pleasing. 

Strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the 
hotels in Europe as they are in "the States." They 
can't use the smoking-room, read the newspapers, loiter 
about the halls, make a general rendezvous of the house 
and help themselves to stationery in European hotels as 
they do on this side. Their hotels lack some of our 
popular features and the excellent service and discipline 
of the American hotels, but, on the other hand, they 
are not so noisy, and are more private and home-like. 



WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 57 



SIMPSON'S DIVAN. 



A Characteristic English Restaurant. — A good, plain, 
thoroughly wholesome English dinner is served in an 
appetizing way by English waiters at Simpson's, No. 
103 Strand, next door to Terry's Theatre, opposite 
Exeter Hall. You get a bowl of good soup, a course of 
fish, a cut from the joint, a salad, two kinds of vege- 
tables; with bread and butter, a biscuit and a bit of rich 
Gorgonzola or dry Wiltshire cheese to wind up with, and 
your whole bill will be four shillings, to which add three- 
pence for "attendance," which is charged in the bill, 
and about threepence more which you will hand to the 
waiter. A feature of the place is that the hot joint, over 
a chafing dish and on a small table, is wheeled round 
to you, and it is there cut before your eyes and trans- 
ferred to your plate. You can get a lower-priced dinner 
in London, and higher-priced dinners where you please, 
but none of a better quality and none that is more satis- 
factory unless you demand fancy f ol de rols, indigestible 
entrees and French dishes made of little or nothing. 

Simpson's is justly celebrated for its *' fish " dinners. 
Both these and the meal above described are served in 
the middle of the day and in the evening also. On Sim- 
day the evening dinner only is served : the place is closed 
on that day until 6 P.M. 

Simpson's enjoys the patronage of Henry Irving and 
of other people famous in the theatrical world, just as it 
did in the last century. Henry Irving's Lyceum Thea- 
tre, by the way, is in the Strand, near Simpson's, but on 
the opposite side of the street. Not very long ago I 
saw D'Oyly Carte enjoying his dinner at Simpson's. 
This is a special compliment to the place, because that 
magnificent hotel, tlie Savoy, in which this theatrical 
manager is interested, is just around the corner from 
Simpson's, on the Thames Embankment. During the 



58 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON, 

summer of '91 I met at Simpson's another theatrical 
manager, our own Augustin Daly, with his wife. Mr. 
and Mrs. Daly occasionally left the Hotel Metropole, 
where they had apartments, to partake of one of Simp- 
son's substantial, well-cooked and appetizing meals. 
There's no Simpson now, the founder died long ago, 
but " Simpson's " is there yet, as it was a hundred years 
ago, although it is now a limited company. Howard 
Paul eulogizes this place, and Stephen Fiske recom- 
mends it. Besides being a brilliant writer on dramatic 
matters, Mr. Fiske has made a study of the gastronomic 
art, and he lived in London continuously during nine 
years. The reading public put faith in Stephen Fiske 's 
dramatic criticism ; his intimates also trust to his good 
taste and judgment in ordering a dinner. 

It is a well-known fact that changes in the employees 
at this establishment are seldom made. Some of the wait- 
ers have stood at the tables for nearly two decades, and 
the head waiter has been there (probably not always as 
head waiter) for more than thirty years. The name of this 
head waiter is Charles Flowerdew, so he informed me, 
and I can impart this piece of information — that this same 
Flowerdew is a character w^orth studying. There is 
nothing of the '* Yellowplush " type about him, but he 
is such a character, courteous and civil (yes, seemingly 
servile to an American's eye), such as Dickens delighted 
to draw. 

Mr. Flowerdew knows all the old customers at Simp- 
son's, and, what is of more consequence to a hungry man, 
he knows all the choice cuts. He will suggest the best 
dishes, the rare bits, and he will serve you from the 
joint ad libitum, as he proudly remarks. When next 
you go to London, go to Simpson's, 103 Strand. You 
will be sure to meet a few London notabilities, you will 
be sure of a good dinner, and last, but by no means 
least, you will see the polite and dignified Mr. Charles 
Flowerdew. Managing director, E. W. Cathie. 




o 

H 



01^ 



RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND. 



While our facilities in railway travelling have wonder- 
fully improved in the past ten years, it must not be 
supposed that in conservative England they have stood 
still entirely. But the improvements in carriage accom- 
modation there have been so steady and gradual that 
passengers hardly recognize how much more they get 
for their money now than they did a generation back. 
For instance, the old first-class carriage of forty years 
ago was fifteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and 
less than five feet high, and this was constructed to seat 
eighteen passengers ; in other words, each person had 
about twenty-six cubic feet of space. In the carriages 
built to-day to accommodate ten first-class passengers, 
each one has ninety cubic feet. 

Nor because we in America have such luxurious Pull- 
man and Wagner cars must it be imagined that the 
English railway carriages have not comforts and luxuries 
of their own. Some carriages, for example, have com- 
partments which are built to seat only two or three per- 
sons, thus securing complete privacy to a party of that 
number. 

I have never occupied a more comfortable railway com- 
partment than in going, as I did, last September, from 
Edinburgh to London over the lines of the Caledonian 
and London and North Western railways, on the world- 
famous train called the ''Flying Scotchman" — and a 
flyer it is. The distance is four hundred miles, and it is 
run in eight and one-half hours. You leave lCdinl)nrgli 
at 10.15 A.M. and reach Euston square before 7 i'. m. 
As there are several important stations between the two 
cities at which long steps are made, the train must 



60 RAIL WA V TRA V EL LING IN ENGLAND. 

make between many of the stations much more than 
fifty miles an hour. The speed was so great at times 
that it caused unusual vibration, and at times it gave 
me a slight reminder of sea-sickness. 

The compartment was built to seat two persons. In it 
there were two large, softly-upholstered, sleep-inviting 
arm-chairs, one on each side of the car. B.etween the 
two chairs at the back was a door leading to a lavatory 
for the sole use of the two passengers. It was supplied 
with iced-water, washing water, towels, mirror and all 
the etceteras and conveniences that are desirable in 
travelling. The compartment had six windows — two at 
each side and two in front. Between the two front 
windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror. 
The floor was richly carpeted and the compartment was 
supplied with a number of brass brackets and hooks for 
the travellers' impedimenta. But more than this — 
across the front, breast high, was a shelf about six 
inches wide to hold books and papers, and below this 
another shelf about the same width for a foot-rest. 

The compartment was seven feet square and seven feet 
high. Here a man and wife or two friends can make 
themselves about as comfortable as if they were at home 
in their own drawing-room. You exchange your shoes 
for slippers, don your smoking jacket and if your com- 
panion does not object, you can enjoy a fragrant Havana. 
To be sure this is against the rules of the company and 
your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty shil- 
Ungs if you were found out, but the distances are great 
and the stops few on this '* flying Scotchman," so there is 
ample time to enjoy a smoke on the sly. No extra fare 
is demanded for this most luxurious vehicle ; it is 
simply ranked as a flrst-class carriage, but you had bet- 
ter write to the station master and engage such a com- 
partment a day or two in advance of your intended 
journey, for not more than one of these small compart- 
ments is by chance attachcrl even to a " flying Scotch- 



RAIL IV A V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 61 

man." No extra charge is made for this engagement 
in advance. 

The complaint years ago that passengers were locked 
in the cars can seldom now be made. The custom is 
almost entirely abolished ; it caused so many accidents. 
The aim of each and every passenger on a British rail- 
way is to secure a seat with his back to the engine. In 
this way he avoids draughts of air : draughts from a 
bottle they never object to. In fact both men and women 
drink often and deeply during a journey, but it does not 
seem to affect them. 

Time tables are not given away as with us : the charge 
is a penny, two cents. You never hear " all aboard " at 
railway stations, but the much pleasanter sounding 
words, "take your seats, please." 



LUGGAGE AND BAGGAGE. 



You do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for 
baggage on a continental railway, but in England seldom 
or never. Still a piece of baggage is seldom lost on an 
English railway. It gets to its proper destination at last, 
but it seems to be more by good luck than Dy good 
management. Baggage, or " luggage," as they term it, 
goes astray sometimes, but on the other hand, the system 
for tracing and finding it is excellent. They have a "lost 
luggage " department in the principal stations. 

They are very particular as to the quantity of bag- 
gage. Each passenger is allowed so many pounds. At 
every station there is an official who keeps a sharp eye 
on the porters who handle trunks, and at the slightest 
suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk or. 
the scales with which all stations are supplied. 

There are strong racks in every car for light luggage, 
but a great deal of what we should term heavy baggage 



62 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 

finds its way on the racks and under the seats. English- 
men travel with an extraordinary quantity of impedi- 
menta. They carry large satchels, also portmanteaus 
resembling a good-sized trunk — all because no checks 
are given. Everybody wants to keep his luggage in hand 
or in sight. 

There is a prominent sign posted in some of the large 
stations to this effect: * 'Any porter who is discovered 
accepting a fee will be instantly dismissed." And yet 
you won't get your trunk moved an inch without drop- 
ping a few coppers into a porter's hand. The fee sys- 
tem prevails everywhere, from the station master who 
furnishes information to the uniformed porter who 
whistles for a "four-wheeler" or hansom. In many 
cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by 
dropping a penny in a slot. But this is a better arrange- 
ment than exists at stations on the continent, where an 
old woman stands guard, whom you must fee before you 
are allowed to leave. 



A ROYAL RAILWAY TRIP. 



When the Queen of England makes a railway journey 
it is an event of no ordinary importance. With her it is 
not, as with the President of the United States for 
example, so simple a matter as climbing up the steps of 
a Pullman or getting into a Pennsylvania Florida special 
or Chicago limited, and proceeding without fuss. No, 
when Queen Victoria is about to travel preparations are 
made long beforehand and all the regular arrangements 
of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the 
royal train. 

When Her Majesty journeyed by the Caledonian Rail- 
way from Carlisle to Aberdeen, en route to Gosport and 
Ballater, many days previous there was issued the table 



RAIL IV A V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 63 

of instructions for working the trains over the Hne on that 
day. They were intended for the use of the company's 
employees only, who were forbidden to make known 
their contents. A pilot engine was sent over the road 
twenty minutes before the royal train, in charge of the 
foreman of the locomotive department. This engine 
maintained throughout the journey the uniform interval 
of twenty minutes. No other train, engine or vehicle, 
except passenger trains, was permitted to travel on the 
other track between the passing of the pilot and the 
royal train, and even passenger trains had to slow down 
to ten miles per hour. 

One of the orders issued was this : *' Drivers of such 
trains as are standing on sidings or adjoining lines, 
waiting for the passing of the royal train, must pre- 
vent their engines from emitting smoke or making a 
noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is 
passing." 

Brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing pro- 
jected from their trains. Each foreman plate-layer, or 
•'section-boss," as we would say, after examining his 
length of line, stationed himself at the south end and an 
assistant at the north ; after the pilot had passed they 
walked till they met, seeing that all was right. The 
stations were kept clear and the public admitted at one 
station only, the last. Even here, cheering or other 
demonstration was forbidden, "the object being that 
Her Majesty should be perfectly undisturbed during 
the journey." These instructions, signed by James 
Thompson, general manager, and Irvine Kempt, gen- 
eral superintendent, were obeyed in their minutest de- 
tail. 

It must not be supposed that the company has to 
pocket the loss when the Queen travels. The royal 
lady not only does not travel on "passes," but she pays 
all expenses incurred. A copy of the instructions 
printed in gold are presented to the Queen and she can- 



64 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 

not fail to be gratified by the care and thought exhibited 
by the company. 

The entire mileage of the Caledonian Railway is one 
thousand miles ; the main line from Carlisle to Aber- 
deen, over which the queen travelled, is about two 
hundred and forty miles. It traverses a beautiful coun- 
try. From this great trunk run out branches and 
connections by steamer in all directions — reaching to 
all big towns of the country, most of the small ones, and 
all the districts famed in Scottish song or history, the 
highlands, the lochs, the seaboard, etc. The road is a 
model road and one of the best appointed in Great 
Britain. The tourist, the student and the sportsman 
are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of 
the tours arranged by the Caledonian company. 



THE NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY. 

One of the largest English railway systems is that of 
the London and North Western. The territory covered 
by this railway extends from London in the south to 
Carlisle in the north, and from Cambridge in the east to 
Holyhead in the west — aia area of three hundred miles 
in breadth. The main office of the government is in 
London, but the capital, so to speak, is Crewe, a town 
of thirty-five thousand inhabitants, consisting entirely 
of the employees of the railway and their families. The 
total number in the railway's service does not fall far 
short of sixty thousand. The annual budget amounts 
to ten million pounds, while the funded debt has 
reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling. 

The London and North Western shops at Crewe have 
to keep in repair a stock of engines that is worth fivid 
million pounds sterling, and while they do not indeed 
put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes, they 



RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IX ENGLAND. 65 

do literally every four hours, and in doing so the en- 
gines consume a million tons of coal per annum. On an 
average, it is reckoned that every five days an old en- 
gine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one. 

Of late years the company has been experimenting on 
an extensive scale with a system of metallic permanent 
way. Steel '* keys " fasten the rails into steel '* chairs," 
which in their turn are riveted down to steel sleepers. 
About thirty miles of line has been laid on this system, 
with about sixty thousand sleepers. So far the results 
are understood to be satisfactory. The question in- 
volved in the conflict between steel and wooden sleep- 
ers is gigantic. A rough calculation shows that to re- 
place the wooden sleepers on existing lines in Great Brit- 
ain only would require about four million tons of steel, 
without reckoning the weight of the chairs and keys. 
And great Britain has only one-fifteenth of the railway 
mileage of the world. 

In some ways the '* goods " traffic arrangements of the 
road at Liverpool are even more remarkable than those in 
London. At Liverpool the North Western has six goods 
stations, two of them reached by tunnels each a mile 
and a quarter in length, constructed for their use alone. 
One of these stations, Edgehill, is called a goods 
"yard," but this yard contains fifty-seven and a half 
miles of land, covers two hundred acres of ground, and 
has cost about two million pounds sterling — nearly ten 
millions of dollars. 

The conductors on the New York street cars, like the 
New York policemen, are sullen and sour ; they seem 
ill-tempered, if not ill-natured. You seldom or never 5 
see a smile on their lips, and as for giving utterance to 
the common and easy phrase, " lluink you," when they 
receive a fare, they wouldn't be guilty of such a piece of 
politeness ; not they. 

It is different in England, on the Continent, every- 
where in Europe. Whether on a steam road, a steam- 



66 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 

boat, a tram or an omnibus, no officer or conductor 
would think of receiving a fare without thanking a pas- 
senger audibly, and even when an officer opens the 
door or looks into the window of a carriage for the pur- 
pose of examining tickets, you will not hear the short, 
sharp, curt demand, ** tickets," as in the States, but 
** all tickets, please," in a pleasant and agreeable tone. 




AN ENGLISH RAILWAY GUARD. 



THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL'S. 



All Americans who go to London visit Westminster 
Abbey, and some of them make more than one visit. 
There is a rare charm about the grand old pile. I 
never go to London without visiting the Abbey, and 
this was also the custom of the late Aaron J. Vander- 
poel, with whom I had the honor of crossing once or 
twice. On one voyage westward, a fellow passenger 
was James R. Cuming, of the famous law firm of Van- 
derpoel, Cuming and Goodwin. Mr. Cuming and I were 
fellow students in the old law firm of Brown, Hall and 
Vanderpoel in the days of District Attorney Blunt, 
never-mind-how-many years ago. Mr. Cuming's hair is 
now tinged with gray, but he has the same genial, 
agreeable qualities, and he is just as modest, eminent 
and successful lawyer though he now is, as he was 
when he and I were boys together in the Broadway 
Bank building on the corner of Broadway and Park 
place. But none of this personal matter has aught to 
do with the subject in hand. 

I was about to say that while all Americans go to 
Westminster Abbey to see the monuments and other in- 
teresting things, all of them do not know that two of 
England's greatest men, her most renowned heroes of 
modern times, are buried in St. Paul's Cathedral— Lord 
Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. 

One reason why American and other tourists who 

visit St. Paul's seldom see the tombs of these great 

men is because they do not know that the cathedral 

contains them. The tombs are in the crvpt. and un- 

07 '^ 



68 THE CRYPT OF ST PAUL'S, 

less you knock on the great iron gates leading to 
the crypt and pay a sixpence, you cannot obtain ad- 
mission. 

But besides the tombs of these two celebrities, a num- 
ber of other eminent Englishmen lie buried in the 
cathedral. Among the monuments (over their tombsj 
may be read the names of General Gordon, Admiral 
Napier, Hallam, the historian. Sir Christopher Wren, the 
architect, and the famous artists. Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
Landseer, Benjamin West, and J. W. M. Turner— in 
fact, as there is a Poet's corner in Westminster Abbey, 
so there is a Painter's corner in St. Paul's Cathedral. 

Nelson's remains are covered by a great sarcophagus 
of black marble, which was intended for the tomb of 
Cardinal Wolsey. The Duke of Wellington is buried in 
a sarcophagus of porphyry, of which the upper part, 
forming the lid, alone weighs seventeen tons. 

A visit to St. Paul's discovers many other interesting 
things, and it is the opinion of the writer that it is one of 
the three grandest public buildings of modern times, the 
other two being the Capitol in Washington and the Palais 
de Justice in Brussels. 

The cathedral itself has an interesting history. The 
first vSt. Paul's Cathedral was built by Ethelbert of 
Kent, in the year 6io. It is said to have been destroyed 
by fire in 961, rebuilt and again destroyed by fire in 
[086, rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by 
fire in 1666. The present structure was built by Sir 
Christopher Wren and took thirty-five years to complete, 
being finished in 17 10, at a cost of something like 
Z747.954 sterling — nearly four millions of dollars. It 
covers more than two acres of ground. The height from 
the pavement to the top of the cross is three hundred and 
sixty-four feet three inches. You get a good view of 
the building from the Thames. The best view of the 
building, however, is from the top of an omnibus 
going east down Fleet street, but this view is now some- 



THE CR VPT OF ST. PA UL'S. 



69 



what marred or obstructed by the railway arch which 
crosses Ludgate Circus. 

A few figures about the bell and the clock may not be 
without interest. The former, called Great Paul, 
weighs sixteen tons, fourteen hundredweight, two quar- 
ters, nineteen pounds ; height, eight feet ten inches ; 
diameter at base, nine feet six and a half inches ; thick- 
ness where the clapper strikes, eighteen and three-quar- 
ter inches. The clapper is seven feet nine inches long 
and weighs four hundredweight. The note is E flat. 
The clock has two faces, each nearly twenty feet in 
diameter. The minute hand is nine feet eight inches 
long and weighs seventy-five pounds ; the hour hand is 
five feet nine inches long and weighs forty-four pounds. 
The hour figures are two feet, two and a half inches 
long. The pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is at- 
tached a weight of one hundred and eight pounds. It 
beats once in two seconds. 




THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 



Windsor, the royal residence, twenty-five miles from 
London, attracts of course many American visitors, its 
features of interest including, besides the castle and 
park, the celebrated stables. But as for stables, the 
Queen's Mews, near the centre of London, offer a much 
4 more brilliant show. Admission is gained with little 
difficulty or formality — by Americans. You simply call 
at the American Legation in Victoria street, two or three 
blocks (as we'd say in New York), from the Victoria 
railway station — a ''penny 'bus" from Charing Cross 
passes the door. It is not necessary to ask for Minister 
Lincoln ; your card sent to Mr. White, the secretary of 
^ the legation, or, in his absence, to Mr. McCormick, the 
courteous assistant secretary, will secure you in return 
the necessary pasteboard for yourself and party to visit 
the Queen's Mews in Buckingham Palace road — a very 
short walk from the legation and a stone's throw, so to 
speak, from Victoria station. 

The stables cover a few acres of ground. They con- 
tain the royal harness, the carriage of state and other 
carriages, and have stalls for about one hundred horses, 
in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men are 
employed, those longest in the service being privileged 
to live on the premises. There is nothing very remark- 
able about the horses' quarters ; the stalls are not more 
luxurious nor are they kept in better condition than 
many private gentlemen's stables in New York and 
Newport, nor are the horses particularly worthy of 
note, excepting the ten large black stallions and the 
cream-colored stallions, used in drawing the state car- 

70 



THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 71 

riage on state occasions, as, for instance, when the 
Queen opens parliament. The tails of these stallions, 
the black and cream-colored, all reach to and almost 
sweep the ground, with the exception of one big black 
animal, whose brevity of appendage is made up on state 
occasions by the addition of a false tail. 

The creams are eleven in number, and it is extraor- 
dinary how perfectly gentle and quiet they are. The 
fact that a stranger can approach and examine them as 
closely as wished for speaks volumes for the discipline, 
and the care and the intelligence of the stablemen. The 
cream-colored horses were brought over from Hanover 
originally by George I., and from that time, with the 
exception of the period between 1803 and 18 14, w^hen 
Napoleon I. was in possession of that city, until 1837 
they were regularly supplied from the electoral stud at 
Hanover. Napoleon in 1803 captured the cream-colored 
stud which belonged to the Elector of Hanover, and 
made use of eight creams at his own coronation ; so 
from then until his downfall in 18 14 the black horses 
were used on state occasions in England. Since 1837 the 
creams have been bred at the stud farm at Hampton 
Court. 

The harness for ordinary use is of black leather with 
elaborate bright brass trimmings, that for state occasions 
is also of black leather, the crowns and coats-of-arms, 
in solid metal, being heavily and richly gilded. The 
harness is kept in perfect condition, and kept on show, 
protected by glass doors and windows. You may see 
and admire the royal reins, but they are not to be 
handled by common fingers. 

Among the carriages there is one kept for its past his- 
tory and glory, not for present use— a gaudy, gilded, 
theatrical-looking vehicle, the weight of which is four 
tons, the great, heavily-tired wheels of which measure 
six feet in diameter, the whole being of the respectable 
age of one hundred and thirty years. The most beauti- 



72 THE QUEEN'S MEWS, 

ful feature of this curious relic of by-gone days is the 
eight pictures set in as many panels, painted by Cipri- 
ani, an Italian artist famous in his day. 

But the carriages for Her Majesty's ordinary use and 
the carriage which is reserved for state occasions, which 
is drawn by the eight cream horses, are models of com- 
fort, luxury and beauty. They are upholstered with 
dark blue cloth, the only interior ornaments being of 
worsted fringe matching the cloth in color. The wheels 
and body are dark blue, the panels being painted in a 
lighter shade, the centre of each door panel relieved by 
the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors, but not 
larger in size than a silver dollar. The carriages are 
hung on C springs and yield from any point to the 
slightest touch. 

I ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge 
that when Her Majesty places her foot on the step her 
weight must make quite a depression of the springs. 
** Does it," said the royal flunkey ; *'you should stand 
'ere when the Duchess of Teck gets in. The Queen's 
cousin is a werry heavy woman, God bless her. If you 
was to see her get in you would see a depression, or 
whatever you call it." 

You will make a mistake if on leaving the Mews you 
do not drop a shilling into the ready palm of both coach- 
man and footman. 



THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 



Stand on the high ground, above the fountains, in 
Trafalgar Square, with your back to the great, grim- 
looking, granite block of buildings formed by the 
National Gallery ; behind the Nelson column ; yes, 
much farther back ; behind the statue of Gordon, which, 
while you are in that position is overshadowed by the 
admiral's statue. 

This view is pronounced by Boot's District Guide to 
London, and by many London writers " the finest site 
in Europe, " but this is an extravagant statement. While 
it is interesting and attractive it is by no means so open, 
so large, nor anything like so beautiful as the Place de 
la Concorde in Paris, with its very much grander and 
more artistic fountains, its obelisk, its many noble 
buildings, far and near ; the Tuileries Gardens seen in 
one direction and the great Arc de Triomphe, at the 
head of the Champs Elysees, in another. 

Trafalgar Square was dedicated to Lord Nelson and 
commemorates his glorious death in the battle of Tra- 
falgar, which occurred October 22, 1805, and in which 
the English fleet gained victory over the combined 
armaments of France and Spain. In the centre of the 
square, to the memory of the great hero, rises a massive 
granite column, one hundred and fifty-four feet high. 
It is surmounted by Baily's statue of Nelson, seventeen 
feet high, the capital of the column being of bronze, 
melted from cannon captured from the French, 'rbu 
four bas-reliefs at the base represent respectively the 
death of Nelson, by Carew ; the battle of the Nile, by 

73 




74 



The finest sq uare in londo n 75 

Woodington, the bombardment of Copenhagen, by 
Ternouth, and the battle of St. Vincent, by Watson. 
You will notice in the accompanying illustration that 
the admiral's sword is in his left hand, Nelson having 
lost his right arm. At the foot of the pedestal is in- 
scribed his last command : 

** England expects every man this day will do 
his duty." 

To the extreme left is St. Martin Church, as the poet, 
William Winter, explains, "no longer in the fields." 
One half of each of its gray columns has been turned 
black, not by time, but by the quicker action of London 
soot. These dark shadows on the once light-colored 
buildings in London are offensive to some people ; to my 
eyes they are artistic, picturesque and uncommonly 
pleasing. St. Martin's was completed by Gibbs, in 1726. 
Its exterior, especially the Corinthian portico, is worth 
studying. If you have a fancy for such things and in- 
vestigate further, you will find here the graves of the 
actress, Nell Gwynn, a favorite of Charles 11. , Farquhar, 
the dramatist, and the notorious Jack Shepard, 

To your near left in the square is the equestrian statue 
of King George IV., holding a mace in his right hand; 
to your near right, on a line with this, stands a heavy, 
solid granite pedestal with its large capstone ready for 
its companion-piece — another statue, when the man 
and the occasion shall come. 

In front of the King George statue, nearer the road- 
way, is the life-size statue of General Henry Havelock, 
bearing this inscription : — 

To 

Major General 

vSir Henry Havelock, K. C. B. 

and his brave companions in arms 

during the campaign in India 

1857. 



76 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 

•'Soldiers: your labours, 

your privations, your sufferings, 

and your valour, 

will not be forgotten 

by a grateful country. " 

To your right, in front of the unoccupied pedestal, is 
a companion piece to the Havelock statue, the statue of 
another soldier, Sir Charles Napier, designed by 
Adams. 

To the plashing fountains below and to the four mam- 
moth, finely formed lions which, couchant with their 
fore paws crossed and mouths partly open, seem to 
stand a strong but silent guard over the living water, it 
is not necessary to direct attention. They are Sn Edwin 
Landseer's lions and the eye cannot escape them. 

This is a hotel centre. To the left, on a line with old 
St. Martin Church, is Morley's hotel, also old, but with 
a very attractive exterior all the same. On the same 
line, but across the bus}^ strand and extending far down 
Northumberland avenue, is a comparatively new hotel, 
with an imposing semi-circular, smooth, dark gray 
fagade, relieved by many light-colored window-awnings. 
It is the Grand Hotel, which was erected in 1880 on the 
site of Northumberland House. No location in London 
for the purpose is choicer, nor is there in London any 
building better constructed or better appointed for its 
purpose. In Northumberland avenue is the Hotel Vic- 
toria, known and known favorably to all Americans who 
visit London, A little further on, parallel with the Vic- 
toria, separated only by a narrow passage, is the Hotel 
Metropole, one of the celebrated chain of Gordon 
Hotels, three links of which may be found in London, 
one of which is the Metropole, at Brighton, others being 
in other parts of England and in the south of France. 

A little east of the Square in the Strand are both the 
Charing Cross Hotel and the Golden Cross Hotel. I have 
tried the first and it was atrial, indeed ; the second does 



THE FINEST SQUARE IN EON DUN. 77 

not look any more inviting, so I never made the experi- 
ment. 

Pall Mall is a famous club centre, but there are several 
noted club houses in this locality also. Directly in view, 
on your right, serving as a background for the unoccu- 
pied, dark pedestal, loom up the light-colored walls of 
the Union Club ; dating from 1824. This is on what 
New Yorkers would call ' ' the corner of Trafalgar 
square and Cockspur street," but you seldom or never 
hear such a useful phrase in London as on the corner of 
this street or that avenue. 

It is not visible from where you are, but parallel with 
and next door to the Grand, on the avenue, is the build- 
mg of the Constitutional Club. The club has a very 
large membership and it is full. I know of names which 
were put up years ago, and which are still w^aiting their 
turn. The Constitutional is a popular club ; the annual 
dues are low. The building has a colored, ornate front, 
and a French roof. It is of great size, affording ample 
space for reading, smoking, dining and bed-rooms. 
There are two billiard-rooms, one for members only, 
and one for members who may bring a friend for a quiet 
game. 

Down the avenue, on the opposite side, below the 
Hotel Metropole and overlooking the gardens at its feet 
and the river beyond, is the National Liberal Club. It 
stands on a corner and its lofty tower rises twenty-two 
feet above the highest point of the hotel which it faces. 
Its interior is as grand as the exterior is imposing. No 
expense w^as spared in its construction, and it is worth 
seeing. A shilling carefully expended at the door may 
gain you a glance at the ground floor audits rich marble 
fittings, if even you be not a Liberal in politics. I tried 
this plan myself and it worked satisfactorily. 

Remain in the same spot, with your back still turned 
toward the National Gallery ; look straight ahead, be- 
yond the Nelson coknnn, and in the roadwa3\ on what 



78 THE FINEST SQ UARE IN LONDON. 

they call in London an ** island/* you will notice an 
equestrian statue. It is a little the worse for wear, hav- 
ing been buried for many years and afterwards dug out 
of the earth. The tail of the horse looks like what it 
is, a metal tail, and it almost sweeps the ground, and 
stiff and square on the back of the horse sits that unfor- 
tunate king, Charles I. , who was unmercifully beheaded. 
The statue is ungainly, but England reveres things, if 
even they are ugly, on account of their historical asso- 
ciations, so King Charles is likely to remain in his un- 
graceful position, an offence to the eye. This same 
statue, however, if not beautiful, has its uses ; it marks 
the ** centre of London," and for that reason cab fares 
are reckoned from this spot. 

Never mind the poor animal or his rider. Artistically, 
they are not worth dwelling on. Let youi eye wander 
across them to the stirring scenes beyond. A trifle to 
the right there radiates from the square another street, 
one side of which only is .Charing Cross, the other, 
Whitehall. *' Scotland Yard," the former police head- 
quarters, is on the left ; on the right, a quarter of a mile 
farther, is the Admiralty; then *'the Horse Guards," 
which is only a gateway to St. James's Park. A little 
farther south, on the same side, is the Home Office, but 
there the avenue changes its name to Parliament street, 
at the southern end of which is that venerable pile, 
Westminster Abbey, and adjoining it are the Houses of 
Parliament. These, as buildings, are best seen from 
the river, but you will get a good view, in the distance, 
from where you stand, although it be half a mile from 
your position, of the magnificent clock-tower of the 
Houses of Parliament. It makes a striking picture, with 
the vSurrey Hills in the background. 

The clock-tower, which is forty feet square, rises to 
the elevation of three hundred and sixteen feet. The 
dials of the clock, which it takes two hours each week 
to wind, are twenty-two feet in diameter ; the hour- 



THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 79 

hand is nine feet long, and the minute-hand, which, in 
spite of its tenuity weighs two cwt., is sixteen feet 
long. The illumination of the enamelled glass dials, 
each of which is provided with sixty gas jets, is ingeni- 
ously controlled by the clock-work, their light waning 
with the dawn of day and increasing with the fading 
twilight. 

I have not attempted to touch upon the interiors of 
the buildings mentioned. The National Gallery, for 
instance, upon which you have turned your back, and 
which Sir Charles Dilke says contains perhaps, on the 
whole, the finest collection of pictures in the world, ex- 
cept as regards modern work, might occupy your time 
profitably for days, but if you wish to get a cursory 
glance at a group of London features and buildings 
interesting from their historical or other associations, 
no other site in London offers such opportunities as the 
one represented in the above illustration. 




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80 



HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 



A Notable Outing Trip— The Hoime of Indi 
GENT Royalty— Victoria's Grape Vine— The 
Famous Maze— Bushey Park— Twicken- 
ham Town — Pope's Villa. 



To my mind one of the prettiest outings that can be 
easily made from London in a day is the trip to Hamp- 
ton Court, with its famous old palace, its gallery of one 
thousand pictures, and its uncommonly beautiful and 
highly cultivated grounds and gardens. 

The ways of reaching Hampton Court are many and 
varied. It is sixteen miles from London by rail, twenty 
miles by water. The cheapest and quickest way is by 
rail from Waterloo station ; time, forty minutes ; 
fare one way, one shilling and two pence (twenty-eight 
cents), third class ; third class being good enough for 
most people for so short a journey. 

'Buses run on Sunday, fare one and six, and there are 
stage coaches which go direct for two shillings. A han- 
som costs about a sovereign (five dollars) for the da>- : 
a carriage and pair much more than that. But you can 
vary the journey ; go one way on wheels and one way 
by water. 

The water route is slow, and it is monotonous, also, 
imless you want to get a view of the upper Thames. 
The river is very pretty near here ; Maidenhead and 
Marlow not far distant. 

Another route is by rail from any district railway sta- 
tion (underground), either via Wimbledon to Hampton 

81 



82 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 

Court direct, or via Richmond to Hampton Wick or 
Teddington stations. From either of the two latter it is 
a pleasant walk through Bushey Park. During the 
summer months it may be reached by rail to Putney 
Bridge (Fulham station), and thence direct by steam- 
boat, but for a stranger who wants to go direct and see 
Hampton Court Palace, the quickest and easiest route 
is the one first mentioned — the London & South West- 
ern Railway from Waterloo station. 

Besides the beauty of the rural scenery, the attractive 
surroundings in which the palace is set, and the mass of 
picturesque old buildings themselves, the associations 
connected therewith are notable in English history. 
The palace was built by the wily Wolsey, and was oc- 
cupied by a long line of royalty from Henry VIII. and 
Queen Elizabeth down to Queen Anne and the first of 
the Hanoverian monarchs. Apartments in the build- 
ings are still used by some old dames and others of title 
— pensioners and distant relatives of the Queen who 
have claims on the crown. 

There is not much to delight the eye inside — large, 
cold, stately halls, immense bed chambers, a lot of fusty 
tapestries, frowsy furniture (relics of departed glory), 
and a great many paintings, most of them ' * bad or in- 
different," which have only their age to recommend 
them. 

The rules by which visitors must be governed as to 
their moving about in the barn-like galleries are absurd, 
and they are unpleasantly enforced by Jacks-in-office 
and in livery, who are not civil. Especially to Ameri- 
cans are they insolent. There is no charge for admis- 
sion, and as there is not the slightest excuse for de- 
manding a fee, the attendants are not only cross, but 
positively rude to women. 

But you will not spend much time in the gloomy 
apartments. If the sun shines, as it does sometimes in 
London, you will quickly get outside the mouldering 



HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 83 

walls to enjoy the attractive grounds, the noble trees, 
broad meadows and the fragrance of flowers laid out 
and cared for as only an English gardener can cultivate 
flowers, favored as he is by the moist climate. A close 
observer will notice signs on the flower beds which di- 
rect you to ** keep off the verges," as, over there, they 
call the borders or edges. 

One of the sights of the place is the Queen's grape- 
vine, which is tended with special care, growing under 
a great glass house, and from the roof of which last 
August, when I saw it, depended twelve hundred 
bunches of large grapes. I didn't count the bunches, 
but, having a tiny tape measure in my pocket, I did 
measure the trunk of the vine at its thickest point near 
the ground, and found it to be thirty-five inches in cir- 
cumference. It is as much as your liberty is worth to 
pluck one of these grapes ; they are all cut down for the 
Queen when the head gardener decides that they are 
ripe. 

In England they claim that this is the largest grape- 
vine in the world, but I have been privileged to see one 
growing in the open which surpasses it — a vine growing 
on an estate near " Stone Hedge," the home of my old 
and esteemed friend, Captain A. L. Anderson, formerly 
of New York, and owner of the Hudson river steamer 
Mary Powell, but who now resides permanently with 
his family in Santa Barbara, Cal. 

"The maze" is considered one of the features of 
Hampton Court, and is called the finest in the world, but 
for size and for confusing, intricate paths, the Hampton 
Court maze is also surpassed by a maze in California — 
on the grounds of the Hotel del Monte, in Monterey, one 
hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco. In 
that one State (California) there is almost everything to 
be seen in the way of natural attractions that tourists go 
wild over in Western Europe. California has the rivers, 
lakes and mountains, the floriculture, fruits, fish — ■ 



84 HA MP TON COURT PALA CE. 

almost everything in the water, on the ground and in 
the air that yon find in other countries of the explored 
world. Its resources are apparently exhaustless, and 
its productions, rich and marvellous. 

Probably there is nothing, however, more beautiful, 
in its way, than Bushey Park, a tract of one thousand 
acres, but a step across the roadway from Hampton 
Court. It contains rows and rows, miles upon miles, of 
noble chestnut trees. To see these grand old chestnuts 
in May, when they are in full bloom, with their great 
clusters of white and pink blossoms, is to see something 
that will be indelibly photographed on your memory. 
And, yet, come to think of it, even this brilliant scene 
is eclipsed again in that wonderful State, California. 
It is excelled by the view you get of Santa Clara Valley, 
on a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, while 
riding from Big Trees to San Jose. If you happen 
to go through that part of the country in March, as I 
did, and see the orchards of pears, plums and almonds 
in full bloom, you will see such profuse and gorgeous 
beauty in color that it will indeed be to you "a joy 
forever." 

The pretty village of Twickenham, on the west bank 
of the Thames, is a good long walk or a short ride from 
Hampton Court, through pretty country roads and 
shaded lanes. It is immediately opposite Richmond, 
with which it is connected by a handsome stone bridge. 
Twickenham is quiet and antiquated ; it might even be 
called dull, but along the river near by are many beauti- 
ful villas with attractive grounds. " Twickenham Ait," 
or Eel-pie House, on an island in the Thames, used to 
be a favorite resort of holiday visitors from the metro- 
polis. The river is narrow here and the two banks are 
connected by ferryboats. "Twickenham Ferry" is 
celebrated in song and story. I don't know who wrote 
the words, but there is a very sweet and spirited song 
entitled * ' Twickenham Ferry, " music by Marzials, which 



HAMPTON COirRT J' A LACE. 85 

I always listen to with great pleasure, as sung by a 
lovely New York girl, who charms me with her beauti- 
ful voice. The first verse goes this way : 

" O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! who's for the ferry? " 
The briar's in bud and the sun going down ; 
I'll row ye so quick, and I'll row you so steady ! 
And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! " 
The ferryman's slim, and the ferryman's young, 
And he's just a soft twang in the turn of his tongue. 
And he's fresh as a pippin, and brown as a berr3^ 
And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! 
" O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! ho ! " 

Anybody will point out to you " vStrawbcrry Hill," 
famous as the home of Horace Walpole, and if you are 
a stranger, no driver will let you miss, in Twickenham, 
''Pope's \'illa," an old-fashioned stone house with a 
brownish-gray front, in which the poet lived for several 
years. Pope, you know, was styled "The Bard oi" 
Twickenham." 

Prior to removing to Twickenham .Vlexander Pope 
lived with his piirents in the village of Binfield, nine 
miles from Windsor, and it was at Binfield that he 
penned "Spring, the First Pastoral." It opens with 
these lines : 

" First in these fields I try the sylvan strains. 
Nor blush to sport on Windsor's blissful plains ; 
Fair Thames, flow gently from thy sacred spring, 
While on thy banks vSicilian muses sing ; 
Let vernal airs through trembling osiers play, 
And Albion's cliffs resound the rural lay." 

" Eloise to Abelard," among other famous poems. wa> 
penned in this Twickenham Villa, in 17 17. when Pope 
was under thirty years old. In the same place he wrote 
"To the Memory of an Unfortunate Lady." There 
were two such ladies, so we read in the life of Pope, in 
whom he was interested, Mrs. Cope and Mrs. Weston. 
but his biographer does not seem to be able to settle the 



86 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 

question as to which one of the two it was that inspired 
these lines. 

"Pope's Villa " is occupied in summer time, or it was 
last summer, by Labouchere, whose London residence 
is at Queen's Gate. But to return to the main subject 
of this sketch — it may be worth telling the reader that 
Hampton Court Palace is open to the public free 
throughout the year except Fridays and Christmas Day. 
The hours on week days are from : 

April I to Sept. 30, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

October i to March 31, 10 a.m. to 4 P.M. 

Sundays : — 2 p.m. to 4 or 6 p.m. 

It is a notable fact that Hampton Court is one of the 
very few public places in or near London which are open 
on Sundays. Services in the Chapel on Sundays at 1 1 a.m. 
and 3.30 P.M., on Wednesday and Fridays at 10.30 a.m. 

The gardens, which are very attractive and tastefully 
laid out, and unreservedly thrown open to the public, 
contain several fine avenues of trees, and are open until 
8 P.M. during the summer months, and until dusk the 
remainder of the year. 



LONDON ODDITIES. 



It serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of 
the postal authorities to add the postal district initials in 
addressing letters to London — as for instance, C, indi- 
cating central, or S. W. , Southwest. There are eight of 
these districts, and the necessity for adding the initials 
will be seen when one learns that in London there are 
no less than thirty-five King streets, thirty Queen streets, 
eighteen York streets, a Victoria Park in the extreme 
east, one Queen Victoria street, a Victoria railway sta- 
tion in the Southwestern district, a Hotel Victoria in the 
western central and a Victoria Hotel in quite another 
district. 

The postal system in London is as near perfection as 
it is possible to make it. Few letters go astray, and the 
delivery is prompt, there being from six to twelve de- 
liveries daily ; but by neglecting to add the initial let- 
ter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours. 
There are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in 
London, but in addressing letters take care and take 
into consideration that there are nearly six millions of 
people in London, that the streets and squares cover 
eight thousand acres, and within a radius of fifteen miles 
of Charing Cross seven hundred square miles are cov- 
ered. Correspondence between England and the United 
States also shows wonderful increase. Ten years ago 
the number of letters which annually passed between 
the two countries was eight millions ; at present the 
number is twenty-four millions. Reduction of postage 
rates has of course had something to do with this great 
increase and it will bear further reduction. 

87 



88 LONDON ODDITIES, 

I happened to be near Euston station and wanted to 
go to my hotel in Northumberland avenue. I stepped 
into a hansom, and not wishing to be taken for a 
stranger I simply said ''Victoria Hotel." In five minutes 
Mr. Cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin 
palace, bearing the sign plain enough, "Victoria Hotel." 
" I want the hotel in Northumberland avenue," I said to 
the driver. '' Then why didn't you say Hotel Victoria," 
was the quick response, and cabbie charged me a fare 
and a half to emphasize the distinction. 

The growth of London is something marvellous. 
More than ten thousand houses annually, or, it may be 
roughly stated, one thousand houses every month, are 
added to London. In August of 1889, 754,464 houses 
were supplied with water by the water companies, or 
11,113 below the number in the same month of 1890. In 
September, 1890, the companies had to supply 10,976 
houses more than in September of 1889. In August of 
that year 765,577 houses were supplied with water, and 
in September, 1891, that number had increased to 

The London police are a pleasant, polite set of men, 
and if they do not refuse the price of a pint of beer for 
a slight service, neither will they refuse to answer any 
question, respectfully and satisfactorily. The contrast 
is very striking between these good-tempered, obHging 
officers, and the sullen, saucy, sour-visaged, tobacco- 
chewing New York policeman who is just as ready to 
answer with his club, which he carries exposed, as he is 
with his uncivil tongue. London policemen are paid 
from six to seven and a half dollars per week : New 
York policemen from sixteen to twenty-four dollars 
weekly. A London police sergeant gets only ten dollars 
a week. 

Sixpence for a Play Bill. — At the Prince of Wales 
Theatre and at the Shaftesbury you are charged six- 
pence for a bill of the play, and at the majority of London 



LONDON ODDITIES. 89 

theatres you pay for a programme. The exceptions are 
Irving's Lyceum and D'Oyly Carte's Savoy, where no 
employee is allowed to accept a fee of any kind — not if 
the manager knows it. That does not say, however, 
that a **tip" for a programme is unexpected, even at 
the two houses named. 

Civility and vServility. — There's a difference be- 
tween civility and servility. You are pleased to have 
an omnibus conductor audibly *' thank you " when you 
hand him your fare, but in the London shops a sales- 
n^oman will do the same thing even when you make no 
purchase. At the pleasant Nayland Rock Hotel in Mar- 
gate, on the south coast of England, a waiter will thank 
you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you, or 
when he hands you a glass of water — if you can get 
such a thing as water at your meals in an English hotel. 
It is not obtainable without a little trouble ; everybody 
drinks wine. 

Soot, Soot, Everywhere. — Owing to the use of soft 
coal in London, white buildings are soon changed into 
black ones, partiall3^ This change, especially where 
one side of a set of Corinthian columns, for instance, 
remains the original color, and the other side has grad- 
ually turned very dark, gives some of the churches and 
public buildings a picturesque and pleasing appearance. 
Yellow brick is very largely used, but it soon changes 
color. If you place a tumbler of water outside your 
window at night with the idea of keeping it cool, for 
you rarely see a piece of ice, you will find a number of 
tiny. globules of soot floating on the surface of the 
water in the morning. And it is exceedingly difficult in 
London to make weather prognostications, the sun be- 
ing usually hidden or half-hidden by London smoke, if 
not by fog. 

Exchanging Compliments. — Englishmen say ''as 
drunk as a Scotchman," and Scotchmen have a saying 
'* as durr as an Englishman. " " Durr " impHes something 



90 LONDON ODDITIES. 

more than quiet : it means surly, sullen. It cannot be 
denied that English tourists are unusually quiet : they 
seldom speak without having been formally introduced. 
That reminds me that two or three years ago I was 
travelling on the Midland road from London to I/iver- 
pool, and I happened to make some casual remark to a 
fellow traveller who was a stranger to me. The gen- 
tleman replied very briefly but courteously, and then 
added : *' Beg pardon, you hail from the other side, do 
you not? " " Yes, but why do you ask?" ** If I didn't 
detect it in your accent," said my neighbor, **I should 
know it because you addressed me. I have been trav- 
elling between London and Liverpool now for many 
years, and I am never spoken to but by an American, 
and I rather like it." 

There are no '' cross-walks," as we call them, in the 
cities of Great Britain ; none are needed. Nor does 
anybody cross the street at right angles, as we do in 
New York. Everybody crosses diagonally, from corner 
to corner, or crosses in the middle of the block. The 
road-ways are* so smooth and well paved that all parts 
are alike, and it is never necessary to pick your way. 
In New York, besides exercising great vigilance to pre- 
vent being knocked down and run over by vehicles, you 
must always keep one eye on the ground while cross- 
ing. You may be upset by a car track, or you may step 
between two stone blocks that are a foot apart, more 
or less. 

As T(j Oysters. — English oysters still retain their 
flavor, a great deal of flavor ; in fact they have entirely 
too much — that is to say, too much for anybody whose 
palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste. You can 
get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen, but choice 
" Whitstables," that have a strong, coppery flavor, come 
as high as four shillings a dozen. For the uneducated 
American palate, Chesapeake oysters, or the Great 
South Bay blue points are good enough. 



LONDON ODDITIES, 91 

Servants' Wages. — Servant girls' wages in England 
are not nearly so high as they are in the United States. 
Even hotel chambermaids, who are paid better than 
family servants, only receive fourteen pounds sterling a 
year — about seventy dollars, but each one is allowed a 
fortnight's holiday (with pay) at the end of the summer. 
And the ** tips " they receive from the guests are well 
worth consideration. 

There are differences between the habits of London 
and New York women and here is one of the minor 
points : New York women go " shopping," that is to say 
they go into one store after another to examine the 
goods, as a diversion or pastime ; English women never 
enter a shop without the intention to purchase ; they 
make a business and not a pastime of replenishing their 
wardrobe. To go on a shopping tour American women 
often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry ; English women 
on the contrary, dress very plainly when engaged in 
their business of purchasing. They reserve their fine 
clothes for the opera or for receptions, wearing no extra 
finery even for ordinary visiting. They are not seen 
parading the streets in silks and satins, and that is why 
some American writers who do not observe closely say 
that" English women in ttie street dress in dowdy style." 

No *' FoRELADiES" IN LONDON. — At the great dry- 
goods house and outfitting establishment of Debenham 
& Freebody, in Wigmore street, not far from the Lang- 
ham Hotel, all the saleswomen are expected, nay, are 
obliged to dress in black. They number two hundred, 
but not a ** saleslady " nor a " forelady " among them. 
They make derision of these terms, which are so com- 
monly heard in New York. The firm also employs six 
or seven hundred young men. All the uninarried em- 
ployees live on the premises, and this plan is found to 
operate satisfactorily to all concerned. The young men 
wear black coats, waistcoats and neckties. Many years 
ago salesmen in London dry goods houses were not 



92 LONDON ODDITIES, 

allowed to wear a moustache, but there is more liberty 
now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates. 

You don't hear the words, corsets, dresses nor pounds, 
in London shops of the first class, such as Kate Reily's, 
Debenham & Freebody's or Redfern's. They have 
gone back to the old-fashioned term — stays, gowns and 
guineas. English merchants favor the last term because 
a guinea is worth a shilling more than a pound. 

Customs in Art Galleries Abroad and at Home. — 
The British National Gallery, in Trafalgar square, Lon- 
don, like our Metropolitan Museum of Art and like nearly 
all galleries in different parts of the world, is only open 
free on certain days of the w^eek, while the great French 
collection at the Louvre, in Paris (probably the largest 
and most valuable collection of pictures under one roof) 
is always free, and may be visited without application 
to any circumlocution office. The Louvre is open six 
days of every week in the year ; only on Mondays are 
the public not admitted, the officers reserving Monday 
for repairs and cleaning. In nearly all of the public 
galleries of Europe, as in the Corcoran gallery in Wash- 
ington, you are obliged to leave your umbrella or walk- 
ing stick in charge of an official at the door and for the 
care of such an article a fee is charged in some places ; 
at the Louvre you may carry into the galleries as many 
umbrellas and bundles as you please. This is not al- 
ways an advantage : for my part I am only too glad to 
be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such 
occasions. It seems strange that men while viewing 
pictures in the foreign galleries should persist in wear- 
ing their hats — it seems strange to a New Yorker ; the 
custom being so different at our Academy of Design. 

Police Uniform. — The New York police are fine- 
looking and their uniform is handsome — handsomer and 
probably better fitted for the purpose than the police 
uniform adopted in any other country. The London 
poHce look odd in their helmets and their coats, which 



I 



LONDON ODDITIES. 93 

are too short in the skirt. Instead of rubber coats they 
wear a cape in inclement weather, which only protects 
the shoulders. But if the London police look clumsy 
and awkward what can be said of the Paris police ? 
Simply that they look silly. With their military cap 
and sword they resemble soldiers, somewhat. In sum- 
mer they wear linen trousers which are cut very loose, 
and instead of allowing freedom of movement, this 
waste of material seems to retard their progress. It 
is a funny sight to see one of these gendarmes running 
at full speed {^Iiis full speed) after a flying malefactor. 
Their side-arms, capes and baggy trousers are very 
much in the way. 

The New York police act like brutes at times, but 
they are at least a fine-looking body of men, and in 
times of public emergency it must be admitted they 
show courage and perform good service. 

When men at London places of amusement remove 
their hats, they seem to do it reluctantly. They will 
enter a theatre and enter a box, remove their overcoat 
and gloves, take out opera glass, and spread the play 
bill before them, and then, as a last thought, if they 
think about it at all, the hat will be slowly removed ; 
they seem to be unwilling to part with it. How different 
in American theatres, where every man quickly doffs 
his hat the moment he enters the door of the audito- 
rium. It is all the more noticeable in London theatres 
because the women are obliged to remove their hats be- 
fore entering, and excepting at the Lyceum, the vSavoy, 
and possibly one or two other houses, they are obliged 
to pay for their care. 

In France you see a great number of young, and some 
very old women working in the streets and in the fields ; 
in Germany women shovel and put in coal ; in Paris 
they go into harness and draw hand-carts and barrows ; 
in Switzerland they drag small carts harnessed along- 
side of dogs. You will often see a dog and a woman 



94 LONDON ODDITIES, 

harnessed to a fruit or milk wagon. In England they 
go into barrooms and stand up with men and drink — 
and get drunk. 

Kew Gardens. — Kew is not only the most popular and 
favorite resort of the London holiday maker, but a place 
unique among public institutions of its kind and of 
special value to the horticulturist and the botanist. 
Eighty thousand visitors have passed its gates in one 
day. The gardens are open free on week-days from 
noon (bank holidays lo A. M.), and on Sundays from i 
P. M. until sunset. The gardens and houses form part 
of the grounds attached to the Royal Palace, a favorite 
residence of George III. The Palm House, said to be 
the largest glass building in the world, except the 
Crystal Palace, contains some of the most beautiful 
tropical palms and plants, ferns, fern trees and cacti, 
while in the other tropical houses there is a splendid 
collection of orchids, and other treasures of southern 
climates, including the gigantic "Victoria Regia"lily. 
The gardens contain an endless profusion of trees, 
shrubs, flowers and ferns of temperate regions, and 
flora of almost every land and clime. The names and 
descriptions will be found in most cases attached to the 
various specimens. The museums contain many valu- 
able specimens, and much to amuse, interest and in- 
struct, while the contiguity of the River Thames, with 
the view of Brentford and Isle worth, makes a trip to 
the Gardens a delightful day's outing. Trains run 
direct every half-hour from all parts of the District 
Railway and its connections to Kew Gardens station. 
The journey may be varied in the summer by travel- 
ling to Putney Bridge station, and thence by steamboat 
from adjoining pier to Kew Bridge. 

Richmond. — You can drive to Richmond on the 
Thames by cab or carriage, but a quick and cheap way 
is by train. There is a half-hourly service of trains 
connecting Richmond with all parts of the District Rail- 



LONDON ODDITIES. 95 

way and its connections, and through rail tickets are 
issued at cheap fares from all stations. A steamboat 
runs daily in the summer months from Putney Bridge 
pier at II. 15 A.M., and through tickets by rail and boat, 
via Putney Bridge station, can be obtained at all Dis- 
trict Railway stations. The attractions of Richmond 
are : Richmond Park, nearly equal in area to the whole 
of the London Parks, containing ornamental waters and 
herds of deer. The view of the river and valley of the 
Thames from Richmond Hill and Terrace, described by 
Sir Walter Scott as '*an unrivalled landscape," is now 
rendered more delightful by the recently thrown open 
grounds of Buccleuch Park. The River Thames for all 
boating trips. Distance up the river to Teddington 
Lock three miles ; to Kingston Bridge five miles ; down 
to Kew Bridge three miles. 

Windsor Castle and Windsor Park. — One of Her 
Majesty's residences ; twenty-one miles from London — 
forty-five minutes from Paddington station. The at- 
tractions of Windsor are great. The Round Tower, 
from the top of which a splendid view of the surround- 
ing country may be had, is open to the public daily, 
except Sunday ; from 1 1 to 3 in winter and 1 1 to 4 in 
summer. St. George's Chapel may be viewed any day 
except Wednesday, between 12.30 and 4 p.m. The Al- 
bert Chapel is open every Wednesday, Thursday, Fri- 
day and Saturday from 12 noon to 3 p.m. The State 
Apartments, during the absence of the Court, are open 
to the public daily (except Wednesday). Tickets, ob- 
tainable at the Lord Chamberlain's Stores, Winchester 
Tower, Castle Yard, Windsor, on presentation of your 
card or name. The Private Apartments can be viewed 
only by special order— rarely granted — of the Lord 
Chamberlain. One may revel to his heart's delight in the 
green luxury and imsurpassed beauties of nature in the 
Home and Great Parks ; while a stroll through the Lon;; 
Walk, the longest avenue of trees in the kingdom, to the 



96 LONDON ODDITIES. 

picturesque ruins and beautiful scenery of Virginia 
Water gives a good idea of the princely residence and 
the lovely country which surrounds it. Eton College is 
within easy walk of Windsor Castle. 

You hear a great deal about Charing Cross in Lon- 
don, but you may look in vain for a street sign bearing 
that name. Very few people in London know exactly 
where it is, nor does even the policeman on the ** beat " 
know. Strange to say, neither the Charing Cross Hos- 
pital, the Charing Cross Station, nor the Charing Cross 
Hotel is in Charing Cross. Much as it is talked about, 
it is a very short street, extending easterly only from 
Cockspur street, then southerly, past the equestrian 
statue of Charles L to Scotland Yard or Whitehall. 
Low's Exchange is in Charing Cross, and within two or 
three hundred feet of that house (No. 57), is the very cen- 
tre of the city of London. From this spot cab fares are 
reckoned. Start from here and you can ride anywhere, 
within a radius of two miles, for one shilling. Low's Ex- 
change, by the way, is a very popular rendezvous in Lon- 
don for Americans. It is where they ''most congre- 
gate," and it ofEers many conveniences for travellers. 



POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 



The drinking habit among men and among women 
and girls still remains the curse of Great Britain, and its 
companion, poverty, is everywhere. But if the poverty 
is striking and awful to behold, its next-door neighbor, 
charity, God be praised, aims to keep pace with it. Hos- 
pitals and other philanthropic institutions supported by 
voluntary contributions, are to be seen almost wherever 
the eye turns in the United Kingdom. 

The patriotic and other public funds, to meet special 
emergencies at home and abroad, may well challenge 
the world's admiration, not only for the princely amounts 
subscribed, but also for the hearty and expeditious way 
in which the funds are raised. The charitable institu- 
tions of the city of London number upwards of one 
thousand, and simply of asylums for the aged (colleges, 
hospitals and almshouses), there are one himdred and 
twenty distinct institutions. 

But to return to the drinking habit, which presents 
itself before you constantly : I was riding up to London 
from Margate with a hotel-keeper, at whose house, on th(^ 
edge of the surf, I had been staying for a week, and 1 
remarked that the drinking water at Margate was of 
good quality. *' Ls it ? " -said Mr, Knaggs, for this is the 
name of the agreeable gentleman who presided f^>v 
three years over the destinies of the Nayland Rock 
Hotel. •' Is it ? " said mine host. *' Well, you know nv >vc 
about it than I do, for I've never tasted it." 

On Sunday, while at dinner at Philp's Cockburn Hotel. 
Edinburgh, just before dessert was served, a small box 
was passed around the table by a waiter and into it 

97 



98 PO VERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 

people were dropping sixpences, shillings and pieces of 
higher denomination. At once it occurred to me, here's 
another overcharge or extra I had not counted on, and I 
began inwardly to rebel. ** What's this for ? " I blurted 
out in a rather injured tone. ' ' Collection for the Orphan 
School, sir," and I gladly added my mite. Afterwards I 
saw money boxes- in hotels and restaurants in other parts 
of Scotland and in England labelled, for example, ''For 
Charing Cross Hospital; funds urgently needed," etc. 
Little boys and young women go about the busy and 
better parts of London on Sundays with boxes in their 
hands, begging you to * * drop a penny in " for this charity 
or that — and you find it very hard, indeed, in London to 
keep any coppers in your pocket, so strong are the ap- 
peals. On hospital days the number of hospital boxes is 
largely increased temporarily. At this time sheets are 
spread in churchyards, into which people throw their 
spare change liberally. 

''The People's Palace," which was opened by the 
Queen in jubilee year, is a noble illustration of the char- 
itable English heart. The "People's Palace " is situated 
in one of the poorer quarters of London, and, as every- 
body knows, is the realization of an ideal conception of 
Walter Besantin his novel, "All Sorts and Conditions of 
Men." The palace includes a well-stocked library; a 
reading-room, supplied with papers from all parts of the 
world ; a large swimming bath and a hall for musical 
and literary entertainments. In the basement of one of 
the main buildings boys are taught trades by which they 
may earn their living. That the recipients of all this 
good may not feel that they are objects of cold charity, 
a slight charge per month is made for those who use the 
reading-room, library, swimming bath, etc., and there 
is a nominal charge, about four cents each person, 
for admission to the concerts and lectures, which 
are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of 
celebrity. 



PO VERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 99 

I visited that part of the Whitechapel neighborhood 
which "Jack the Ripper" made infamous as the scene 
of his murders. It was a vile place three years ago, but 
the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand. The 
Baroness Rothschild opened wide her heart and purse 
and erected here, for the poor of this unfortunate quar- 
ter, blocks of modern model tenements. These she lets 
at very low rents, asking only three per cent, return for 
her investment. In connection with the tenements the 
noble woman has built a well-appointed *'Club and 
Library," with billiard-room, etc., for the amusement of 
her tenants. These premises are in charge of a custodian 
and his wife, who are paid for their services by the 
Baroness ; and for the use of the " Club and Library " 
a merely nominal charge is made to any of the tenants 
who avail themselves of the privilege. It is not sectar- 
ian. In England they believe in ** Faith, Hope and 
Charity," and of these three that ''the greatest is 
Charity." 




MARGATE, 

AN ENGLISH WATERING PLACE. 



I was ill in London, at the Windsor Hotel in the sum- 
mer of 1890, and as my friend Dr. Walter M. Fleming of 
Nev/ York happened to be in London at the time, at the 
Savoy Hotel, I sent for him. The fact is that I had 
been receiving too much ''attention" from my friends 
— dinners, drives, concerts, theatres, suppers, etc., all of 
which resulted in physical and nervous exhaustion. 

Dr. Fleming's prescription was simple — ''rest and a 
change of air," but as this was Dr. Fleming's first visit 
to England, I began to question my friends and others 
as to the best pharmacy at which to have the prescrip- 
tion filled. The proprietor of the Windsor Hotel, Mr. J. 
R. Cleave, said "Margate ; " so, too, said the intelligent 
manager of the house, Mr. Mann. An old and trusted 
friend wrote me, " Don't go to Margate, go to Brighton 
or to Hastings." Thus opinions differed. I knew all 
about Brighton and wanted to see a place new to me. 
I was much inclined to go to Hastings, but a concen- 
sus of opinion prevailed in favor of Margate. 

" There's a beautiful air at Margate," is the response 
of everyone in England to whom you speak of that 
place, from the boys at Low's exchange in Charing 
Cross to Mr. R. Whiteing, a writer on the London Daily 
News. This remark was also made to me by Major 
Arthur Griffiths, an English author and litterateur, who 
is known and esteemed on both sides of the Atlantic. 
So to Margate I went. 

Margate is on the south coast of England, seventy-five 
miles from London, whence it is reached by the London, 

100 



MARGATE, 10 1 

Chatham and Dover Railway. This is the road celebrated 
for the beautiful rural scenery that borders it ; it passes 
through the prettiest parts of Kent, '*the garden of 
England," through Rochester and Canterbury, famous 
for their cathedrals, and other places of historic and 
scenic interest. You may also reach Margate by steamer 
from London Bridge. It is a pleasant sail on the Thames 
of ninety-three miles. 

Having arrived at Margate, you can make it the 
starting point for many a delightful excursion. Boul- 
ogne on the French coast, for instance, across the chan- 
nel, is directly opposite Margate ; steamer fare round 
trip, six shillings — a dollar and a half. 

Other pleasant excursions are made to Canterbury 
and to Ramsgate. To these places run ' * pleasure vans " 
accommodating twenty persons and the fare ranges- 
from threepence to a shilling, according to the style of 
vehicle. If you do not care to patronize the pleasure 
vans, you may hire a victoria at two shillings per hour. 
Canterbury is the site of the famous cathedral. At 
Ramsgate lived the Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses 
Montefiore, for nearly the length of his long and useful 
Hfe — one hundred years. 

Another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned 
village of Broadstairs, for many years the home of 
Charles Dickens. The house Dickens occupied and 
which he called '* Bleak House," still stands on its com- 
manding site at the top of the cHff s directly overlooking 
the sea. A description of Bleak House, with illustra- 
tion, appeared in the Home Journal in January, 1891. 
and has been widely copied in this country as well as in 
England. Broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from 
Margate, fare by victoria four shillings. 

Few Americans who cross the ocean go to Margate, 
but they may spend a couple of days or a couple of 
weeks there with advantage. Margate is a town with a 
history. Its foremost historical feature is the Church of 



102 MARGATE. 

St. John, built in 1050. It has seen the rise of Norman, 
Plantagenet and Tudor dynasties and still stands, the 
oldest of England's possessions. In the time of Queen 
Anne, according to the chronicler, to be buried in a 
sheet cost sixpence, and a shilling was the extravagant 
price of a coffin, but the honor of being buried from St. 
John's Church cost two shillings more! Marriage banns 
were to be had at St. John's for three-and-six. 

Modern Margate is one of England's most popular 
watering-places. There are many pleasant walks and 
some fine buildings. One of the pleasure resorts is the 
ocean pier. Here, three times a week, a large band of 
picked musicians perform a good programme giving a 
promenade concert directly over the breakers. 

It is the boast of the Britisher that his government 
is '* parental;" it not only assumes to take charge of the 
individual, but it does in many particulars compel him 
• to take care of himself. If, for instance, you are caught 
boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined "forty 
shillings " (ten dollars) — a favorite sum for a fine, by the 
way, is that same forty shillings. 

The pier at Margate would seem to be an exception 
to the rule of safety ; it cannot be called absolutely safe 
at night. The boat landing below is reached by several 
flights of wide stairs, and the lowest flight is open and 
unguarded, not only in daytime but also at night. In ad- 
dition to this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at 
all, and it would be the easiest thing in the world on a 
dark night to walk off by accident into the water. Why 
more accidents and loss of life do not occur is surpris- 
ing. Twopence admits you to the pier, and it is a 
popular democratic resort. 

At night the scene near the pier is a lively one. Street 
restaurateurs, their barrows ablaze with flambeaux, line 
the highway and drive quite a business selling plates of 
oysters, mussels, cockles and snails, which are more or 
less tempting. 







103 



104 MARGATE. 

If you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to 
Margate. There is no high-rolling surf, but if you are a 
swimmer you will be all the better pleased. There are 
no ropes to lay hold of, none are necessary ; you bathe 
in perfect safet}^ and comfort, and, as at all English 
resorts, you bathe from a '* machine/' 

In America bathing facilities consist of long rows of 
commodious wooden boxes placed on the beach at some 
distance from the surf. You purchase a bathing ticket 
for twenty-five or fifty cents, the price depending on 
whether you prefer a woolen to a cotton costume. You 
receive the suit and the key of your box. Then you 
put your valuables in an envelope sealed by yourself 
and hand them to the custodian, who places them in a 
separate box in an enormous safe, returning you a check 
tied to a rubber band, which latter you pass over your 
head and wear while bathing. You proceed to your 
" house," as we call it, disrobe and don your scant suit, 
lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of 
the water, where, as fancy dictates, you loll around on 
the beach, talking to your friends, or you plunge im- 
mediately into the breakers only to come out, dry your- 
self in the sun, cut up capers on the sand, chat or 
smoke, repeating the process ad libitum. Of course men 
and women bathe together. 

Not so in England. There you bathe from ' * machines, " 
small wooden houses, five feet square by ten feet high, 
mounted on four wheels. They have entrances back and 
front, each approached by a low flight of steps. You 
enter by one door in street costume, and having dis- 
robed and donned your bathing garments, you give the 
signal, a horse is attached to the ''machine " which is 
drawn a short distance into the water. You step down 
and out, disport yourself in the water as long as you 
please and reenter your box, to emerge therefrom once 
more in everyday habiliments. No lolling about the 
beach, no unseemly display of person ; all is conduct-- 



MARGATE, 105 

ed in a proper, staid and exemplary manner — on the 
beach. 

And in sooth, why should you walk around and smoke 
and chat with your friends on this occasion, in a cos- 
tume, or lack of costume, which if worn at ether times 
or places would land you in jail for exposure of per- 
son? This with reference to the American custom or 
costume. 

In England it is worse in some respects, for while the 
women dress as they do here, the men bathe in a nude 
state, so to speak. They wear small trunks or loin cloths 
only, and men and women bathe together indiscrimin- 
ately. Notices are posted in prominent places near the 
beach, boldl}^ printed and bearing the English coat of 
arms, to the effect that in the water men and women 
must remain separate, and further that you will be fined 
forty shillings (of course forty shillings) if you are found 
nearer to a female than one hundred yards ; but it is a 
dead letter law, and is entirely disregarded. I am not 
the most prudish man in the world, but I confess to hav- 
ing been shocked. Trunks did not suit me ; I preferred 
and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon 
special application. 

The beach is hard and smooth, broad and gently 
sloping. The bluff at Long Branch is not to be men- 
tioned, scarcely, with the bold, beautiful white chalk 
cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach 
at Margate to a height of seventy-five feet. Along this 
bluff are miles of grassy, serpentine walks, gardens 
prettily laid out, dotted with summer houses and 
bounded by hedges and clover fields — a beautiful, na- 
tural landscape, artificially enhanced. 

The favorite bathing place on the beach is managed 
by Charlotte Pettman. It is reached by a "coast 
guard" cutting in the cliff, an inclined passageway 
sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge. It 
is a sort of artificial caiion. Bathers are charged six- 



106 MARGATE. 

pence each, " six baths for two-and-six, twelve for four- 
and-six. " 

Mrs. Pettman advertises her baths by a circular which 
contains the following touching verse, no doubt assist- 
ing trade materially. 

"I pitied the dove, for my bosom was tender, 
I pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind ; 
But I ne'er shall forget the superlative splendor 
Of Charlotte's sea baths, the pride of mankind." 

In his early days of struggle the great Charles Dick- 
ens, for a few shillings, penned these lines as a **puff " 
of Day & Martin's blacking. 

So far as the waves are concerned, the cliff is as solid 
as it appears to be, but it has yielded to the hand of 
man, and at Charlotte Pettman's baths there is a statue 
sculptured in the cliff, entitled ''My first plunge." It is 
the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in bath- 
ing costume, just about to take ''a header" from the 
platform. It is by Priestman, an English artist. The 
door is opened to art lovers for twopence each, or as 
much more as the generously disposed may be inclined 
to give, the proceeds being handed over to a local 
hospital. 

One of Margate's architectural features, as seen in 
the accompanying illustration, is its handsome clock- 
tower, standing in a conspicuous position on the Marine 
drive. It was erected in honor of the Queen's Jubilee 
in 1887, and has a musical chime of bells. 

Like Brighton and some other seaside resorts, Mar- 
gate is democratic in the height of summer, but select 
in the autumn. In olden times the season commenced 
in June and continued until October. Margate offers 
every inducement to a prolonged season. While Lon- 
don is miserable under Novemiber fogs and humid 
atmosphere, Margate is brilliant with glorious days 
and bright skies ; fine weather from August until 
Christmas. 



MARGATE. 107 

Americans, of course, must flock to the largest hotel. 
They like size, and many of them patronize the Clifton- 
ville Hotel, which, to be sure, is a large establishment 
in the most fashionable, and certainly the most attrac- 
tive part of the town, near the grand cliffs, and over- 
looking the sea — a splendid site and a beautiful house 
exteriorly, but not as well kept as an Amerian host 
might care for it. 

The White Hart Hotel, on the principal street, is a 
commercial house, and has a comfortable appearance 
from the outside, but the Nayland Rock Hotel, not far 
from the two railway stations, yet overlooking the sea, 
and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit 
into the water (provided you have the biscuit), is to my 
knowledge a well-appointed hotel, with bedrooms as 
clean and comfortable and dining-room as cheerful as 
any hotel in the world. The cuisine is of the best. If 
great variety be absent, quality is present. The food is 
choice, and served in a neat, tempting and scrupulously 
clean manner. 

European hotels, as a rule, are kept on the European 
plan ; at the Nayland Rock you have your choice. If 
you choose the American plan, the terms are very low 
for the accommodation afforded. Two dollars and a 
half a day secures you pleasant room, three good meals, 
lights and service. There are no extras. The wines 
are of first quality. 

But I almost forgot an important item. I went to 
Margate for health and rest ; I found both there. After 
one week I returned to London " like a lion refreshed," 
and I shall always say, as everybody in London says, 
" there's a beautiful air at Margate." 



TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. 



The company that owns the Grand Hotel and the 
Metropole in London, opened in March, 1890, a magnifi- 
cent house at Brighton, on the Enghsh southern sea 
coast. ** Magnificent " is the word. It is built of stone; 
it faces the sea ; it has an acre or two at the back laid 
out in gardens, tennis courts, and pretty walks, after 
the style of the United States Hotel ' at Saratoga ; there 
is a separate building on the grounds for a ball-room, in 
this respect resembling the Grand Union Hotel at the 
same American spa ; the elegant drawing-room on the 
ground floor looks on the King's Road and the ocean ; 
the library, which faces the garden, contains a large 
and choice selection of books by leading authors, and in 
the basement there are Turkish and Russian baths fitted 
up with a luxury and perfection of appointment not 
equalled in any other hotel. The proprietors have 
availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the construc- 
tion and furnishing of hotels, and nothing that money 
can supply, or good taste can suggest, has been left un^ 
done to make the Metropole at Brighton what it is — 
one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels in the 
world. It IS said to accommodate six hundred guests 
and to have cost ^{^480,000. 

Besides this hotel, and the Grand and Metropole 
hotels in London, the same company owns another 
hotel in London, "The First Avenue," in Holborn ; 
also the TUirlington at Eastbourne ; the Royal Pier 
Hotel at Ryde, Isle of Wight; the Metropole at Monte 
Carlo; and the Metropole at Cannes — all of them luxu- 
rious establishments. 

108* 



TIVO BRIGHTON HOTELS, 109 

Brighton attracts visitors the year round ; in fact it is 
a city of no mean size, having a permanent population 
numbering an eighth of a miUion. It enjoys two sea- 
sons — one for the hoi polloi, which begins in June and 
lasts three months, and another for the fashionable 
world, which begins in September and continues till 
near Christmas. During the second season the prices 
at Brighton are greatly increased. 

I entered one of the leading hotels one day about 
lunch time, and as is my custom before engaging rooms 
or partaking of a meal at an English hotel, I asked : 
"What is the charge for a table dTiote lunch here?" 
" Two-and-six, " replied the porter. As for seeing the 
lessee or manager of an English hotel, you can almost 
as easily secure an audience with the czar of all the 
Russias. 

But to return to my muttons — or to the lunch, which, 
truth to tell, was good in quality and nicely served. 
My daughter heard the following conversation between 
the head waiter and the said porter as we were passing 
in to the ** coffee-room" Quoth the former: — **How 
much did you tell these people for lunch ? " " Two-and- 
six," replied that blue-coated, gold-embroidered official. 
'* That's wrong," remarked the head waiter, who almost 
lost his head as well as his temper. " Three shillings is 
the price to strangers," and three shillings each we had 
to pay. 

This reminds me of the old story of the Englishman 
who was heard to remark about a man passing, who 
had a foreign look : " 'Ere'sa stranger, Bill, 'eave 'arf a 
brick at 'im." 

That they call these dining rooms in English hotels 
'* Coffee Rooms," when they never serve in them a cup 
of coffee after dinner without a separate and extra 
charge, is rather exasperating. 

The porters and officials at some English hotels are 
not, though it appears as if they were, in league with 



no 



TIVO BRIGHTON HOTELS. 



the cabmen. If you ask them about rates just before 
taking a drive they will occasionally mislead you and 
name a higher rate than the usual or legal one. For 
instance, I asked the clerk at another hotel in Brigh- 
ton, what was the fare by the hour for a drive in an 
open cab or victoria holding two persons. * ' Four shil- 
lings per hour," quickly responded my misinformant. I 
knew better, for this was not my first visit to Brighton, 
but said nothing. To a cabman with a good-looking 
victoria who stood immediately opposite the hotel en- 
trance I popped this question : ** What will you charge 
us for an hour's drive along the beach and about the 
town ? " *' Two-and-six, " briskly replied cabbie and we 
drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for the 
half crown. 





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X 

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A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 



Bleak House, the scene of the novel of that name, is 
near the village of St. Albans, about twenty miles from 
London, and is described in the early part of the 
story as an *' old-fashioned house with three peaks in 
the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the 
porch." That there was more than one Bleak House 
in the mind of Dickens ''there can be no possible 
probable manner of doubt," as Gilbert sings in ''The 
Gondoliers," because at the close of the story one of 
the characters in it is made to say, "Both houses are 
your home, my dear, but the older Bleak House claims 
priority." 

But the " Bleak House" which was for many years 
the home of Charles Dickens, and where he wrote 
many of his novels, was so named by the author 
after his famous story. It is located in the old-fash- 
ioned village of Broadstairs, on the North Sea, in the 
county of Kent, the garden of England, and is seventy- 
two miles from London, on the London, Chatham 
and Dover Railway. The population is given in the 
latest census as two thousand two hundred and sixty- 
three. 

The house was formerly called Fort House, from its 
proximity to the British fortifications on the coast. It 
stands directly on the top of the chalk chffs, seventy- 
five feet above the water, quite alone, and so near to the 
edge that from the portico a stone might be easily 
thrown into the surf — what little surf there is. It corn- 
Ill 




BLEAK HOUSE. 



112 



A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 118 

mands a wide view of the ocean. In the southwest it 
looks toward Ramsgate, a seaside pleasure resort, dis- 
tant five miles ; in the northeast toward Kingsgate. 
The house is appropriately named, for it is indeed bleak 
from Christmas until April, when the cold, biting north- 
east winds, for which these parts are noted, blow with 
all their might. 

It was natural for Dickens to select such a spot for a 
residence. If he was not actually fond of the sea, he 
certainly had a great liking for the sea-coast, with 
which were associated the earliest memories of his 
childhood. It will be remembered that he was born at 
Portsmouth, a fortified seaport town, and the principal 
naval station of Great Britain, about one hundred 
miles southwest of London. Dickens lived at Ports- 
mouth until he arrived at his majority. At Portsmouth 
he studied law, but he found Blackstone and Coke 
rather dry reading, and so went to London where, as 
every body knows, he entered upon his literary career 
by reporting parliamentary debates for the Morning 
Chronicle. 

Bleak House is a plain, vSubstantial, coiupact, three- 
story structure of burnt brick. It has grounds of one 
and a quarter acres in extent, and the propert}^ is what 
is called in England " freehold ; " value, two thousand 
seven hundred pounds sterling. A stone wall five feet 
high, encloses the house on two sides. One side of the 
house is a flat, blank wall, evidently planned so that an 
extension could be easily made, and the lower part of 
the front is protected by plain iron railings. The en- 
trance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a 
portico and doorway supported by Doric columns. 
Next the doorway, on the first story, a semi-circular 
bay window projects, and on the second story are 
two deep windows which open upon a pretty orna- 
mental iron balcony, having a curved, sloping roof. 
A great deal of ivy softens the bareness of the archi- 



114 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 

lecture. It climbs up the walls and around the bay 
windows. 

Dickens was very partial to the ivy plant, as his 
lyric, "The Ivy Green," testifies. He wrote several 
lyrics, but " The Ivy Green " which appeared originally 
in *' Pickwick Papers " is the only one that has become 
familiar. It was first published as a song in the United 
States, and when a London publisher wished to repro- 
duce it in England, Dickens refused the privilege ex- 
cept on the condition that the publisher pay ten guineas 
to the composer, Henry Russell. 

Dickens was more thoughtful concerning Henry Rus- 
sell's rights than this English composer is of the rights 
of others. I well remember that my predecessor on the 
Home Journal, the much beloved poet, George P. Mor- 
ris, had a grudge against Russell, because Russell, in 
England, claimed to be the author of the words, 
"Woodman, Spare that Tree," as well as the com- 
poser of the music; and it is my humble opinion that 
the music in merit is far below Morris's poetry. The 
sentiment is beautiful, the words breathe a true, 
manly spirit and are full of deep feeling, while the 
music is plaintive, weak, childish — namby-pamby ex- 
presses it. 

Russell did better with the English poet Mackay's 
song, " Cheer, Boys, Cheer," making it go with life and 
spirit, and he set appropriate music to our own Epes 
Sargent's song, " A Life on the Ocean Wave," in which 
you may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship 
bowling along before the wind. Henry Russell, who, 
by the way, is the father of Clark Russell, the novelist, 
is still living in London — February, 1892. 

As to the melody, " The Ivy Green," an astute critic 
says : " It seems to me the composer has failed to catch 
the poet's meaning. Dickens's words are as sombre and 
tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and softens 
the ruggedness of decaying grandeur ; while Russell's 



A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 115 

music is as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak." The 
song opens with this stanza : 

A dainty plant is the ivy green 

That creepeth o'er ruins old, 
Of rich choice food are his meals, I ween, 

In his cell so lone and cold ; 
The wall must be crumbled, the stones decayed, 

To pleasure his dainty whim. 
And the mould'ring dust that years have made, 

Is a merry meal for him. 
Creeping where no life is seen, 

A rare old plant is the ivy green. 

The house is about fifty years old, and contains ten 
rooms. Dickens's study was on the second floor, front. 
It has a southeastern outlook ; he was fond of the rising 
sun. The furniture and appointments of the room, 
which the writer saw in the autumn of 1891, remain as 
when Dickens left them — table with telescope, book- 
case, plain wooden armchair, etc. — a very simply fur- 
nished study. He did not die at Bleak House, however, 
but at a short distance from it, on June 9, 1870, at Gads' 
Hill, '' Higham by Rochester, Kent," as he was in the 
habit of dating from. 

Dickens, at Bleak House, was a tenant of a Mr. Fos- 
bury, but the house was sold after Dickens's death, and 
is at present owned in Broadstairs by '*W. S. Black- 
burn, house and estate agent, undertaker, builder and 
decorator, and upholsterer and mover of furniture," by 
which man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a 
very short term to a Mrs. Whitehead, sister of the vicar 
of St. Peter's of Broadstairs, at an annual rent of six 
hundred dollars. Mr. Blackburn now offers the prop- 
erty for sale. It would make a cool and charming sum- 
mer retreat for some American prince. Or let some 
large-hearted and large-pursed man like George W. 
Childs buy the precious property and present it to the 
village of Broadstairs. 



BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 



The beauty of Bath is an old story ; indeed, it is pro- 
verbial. Lord Macaulay described Bath as ''that 
beautiful city which charms even eyes familiar with the 
masterpieces of Bramante and Palladio"; Carlyle de- 
clared it to be " the prettiest town in all England "; and 
Walter Savage Landor averred, in his usual downright 
way, "that it was the only place worth living in, after 
Florence ". The London Globe, as far back as the 30th 
of October, 1869, in an article discussing the attractions 
of English towns, said : " Bath is, with perhaps the ex- 
ception of Edinburgh, the most beautiful city in the 
kingdom." 

Of the valley in which the city reposes, the physical 
features are distinctly marked and impressive. Bath 
lies in the centre of a vast amphitheatre of hills that 
present the most varied outlines, and every variety of 
light, shade and color. In some places bold eminences 
rise and impend over the low lying fields and orchards ; 
in others, a green and gradual ascent presents a widen- 
ing prospect. Everywhere there is a happy blending of 
town and country. At the end of each street verdant 
slopes or rugged rocks meet the gaze. No matter where 
you stand, whether on Claverton Down, rising six hun- 
dred feet above the level of the sea, on the still loftier 
range of Lansdown, with Beckford's Tower, or on 
Beechen Cliff, or on Sham Castle, everywhere a lovely 
panorama is spread, out before you. Being well pro- 
tected on all sides by hills the climate is never severe, 
and is even genial and balmy in the colder months of 
the year. 

Much of what is told us of the early history of Bath is 
of a legendary character, and no statement entitled to 

116 



BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 117 

credit can, we are assured on good authority, be made 
regarding the discovery and use of its thermal mineral 
springs, prior to the Roman occupation of the locality 
about the middle of the first century. 

To what extent the practice of drinking the waters 
was carried in early times we have little means of know- 
ing, but it is certain that they were rarely ever pre- 
scribed for use internally, as a therapeutic agent, until 
the time of Sir Alexander Fraser, physician to Charles 
II. in 1663. 

The medicinal value of these healing springs even 
now would seem to be less extensively known than in 
the interests of humanity it deserves to be. Numbers 
of English people annually resort to the Continental 
spas for means of relief from some lingering disease, 
apparently ignorant of the fact that almost at their doors 
and in a city so accessible as Bath, there exist fountains 
of equal or greater efficacy for healing and under con- 
ditions of far greater comfort and convenience. 

Among the diseases to which the Bath waters are speci- 
ally applicable are rheumatism, gout, various intestinal 
diseases, sciatica, neuralgia, nervous debility, eczema, 
and other skin diseases, bilious affections, dyspepsia 
and catarrh. 

The many buildings devoted to the baths form a con- 
spicuous feature in the architecture and embellishment 
of the city. Not to enumerate them all, there is the 
King's l^ath. adjoining the Grand Pump Room, about 
60 feet in length and 40 feet wide, and containing over 
50.000 galhms of water at a temperature of 117 degrees 
Fahrenheit ; the Hot Baths, the spring supplying which 
has a temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit, and the 
tepid Swimming Bath, for gentlemen only, 60 feet long 
and 25 feet wide, and containing more than 37,000 gal- 
lons of water. 

In the business part of the town there is a faucet 
where the hot mineral water flows constantly /r^; botio 



118 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS, 

publico. It may be ''good for the stomach," but to a 
strange palate it is not pleasant. An educated taste is 
needed before one can take delight in the bubbling, 
boiling beverage. 

The whole town is built of Bath stone, which is soft 
and white when quarried and first used in building. It 
hardens with time, however, resembling after a few 
years of exposure the black buildings in London which 
were once gray. The inhabitants have a fancy for win- 
dow gardens, and the bright flowers and green leaves 
about the windows form a pleasing contrast to their 
sombre-colored surroundings. Bath stone and Bath 
brick are known all over England ; also Bath chairs and 
Bath buns, which originated there. 

There are several good specimens of hotel architec- 
ture, the Grand Pump Room Hotel, for instance, near 
the old Abbey, and in which there are several mineral 
baths. The interior of the hotel, however, is not so 
"grand" as its name and its imposing exterior would 
lead you to expect. If you want to save cab hire there 
is a small and modest looking house, with the somewhat 
pretentious title, "The Royal Station Hotel," which is 
reached by a bridge from the railway station, across the 
narrow street. 

A good class of English and also Americans of quiet 
and refined tastes favor the York House Hotel. It is an 
establishment of the first class, having a central and 
beautiful situation on a wide and leading thoroughfare. 
Next door are the post and telegraph ofiices ; in the im- 
mediate vicinity are the Royal Victoria Park, the 
theatre, the Assembly Rooms and the attractive Cres- 
cents of the city ; the principal baths are within walking 
distance and the railway stations are reached by cab in 
five minutes. The public rooms are handsomely fitted 
up and the bedrooms are luxurious in size and very 
home-like. Meals are served at small tables and the 
tariff is moderate. It is essentially a house for the 



BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 119 

patronage of families. E. Ashcroft, who is proprietor 
of the St. Vincent Rocks Hotel in Clifton, Bristol, is 
proprietor of the York House Hotel at Bath. 

The Great Western Railway which takes you to Bath, 
from Paddington station in London (one hundred and 
seven miles) in 2X hours, is one of the important British 
roads. By the Great Western you go to Torquay, and 
Plymouth, on the southwest coast, and to such interest- 
ing points as Warwick, Stratford-upon-Avon, the old 
town of Chester and beautiful Leamington. The road 
traverses a lovely part of the country. En route you 
get a glimpse of Windsor Castle and pass through Tap- 
low and Maidenhead on the Thames, the rails or 
"metals," as they are called in England, skirting the 
river for many miles, affording delightful views of the 
Thames — not a wide sheet of water but very picturesque 
in this region. 

Long before you approach Bath the Avon is sighted, 
and as you near the station the eye is greeted by the 
noble hills which surround the ancient city. 



TAKIN' NOTES 

IN EDINBORO' TOWN. 



Singular that more Americans do not " take in " Scot- 
land when they are making the grand tour. Its historic 
interest and its scenic beauty are great. Glasgow is 
reached direct from New York by the fine fleet of An- 
chor boats, numbered among which are the ''Furnes- 
sia," the *' Devonia " and the ** City of Rome." Except- 
ing the last named the Scotch boats are slow in these 
days of ''racers " and " greyhounds," but they are very 
comfortable vessels, as I know, from experience, and I 
have crossed in seven days by the " Rome "—crossed, 
that is, from Oueenstown to New York. 

If you don't care about bustling, busy Glasgow, with 
its smoke and its dirt, bonnie Edinburgh is distant only 
sixty-five minutes by express trains of the Caledonian 
railway, one of the best built and best equipped roads 
in Great Britain. 

It hasn't the commerce of Glasgow, not being a sea- 
port, but it is the cleanest city I ever visited, and one of 
the most beautiful. Many travellers consider London 
the most interesting city in the world, but to a casual 
observer, five of the most attractive cities in Europe are 
Rome, Paris, Vienna, Venice and Edinburgh. 

Edinburgh is built entirely of granite and freestone. 
You don't see a brick excepting in a very few and very 
tall factory chimneys. To some eyes this is monoton- 
ous ; to mine it is pleasing. It looks, and it is, substan- 
tial, solid and strong. 

Don't come at any time, not even in August, without 
winter clothing. The winds are keen and cutting. 

120 



TAKIN' NOTES 121 

Umbrella and "waterproof" are indispensable; over- 
shoes, also, if it is your habit to wear them, for "the 
rain it raineth every day " — so to speak. This is not 
the remark of a hasty tourist. I have been making 
trips to Scotland for the past twenty years and I have 
stayed there for weeks at a time. 

It is cool here and rain is frequent, but everything in 
this life has its compensation. This is the twentieth day 
of August, 1 89 1, and we have strawberries for breakfast 
every morning and fresh green peas are in season. 
Large, luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a 
quart. Edinburgh, remember, is four hundred miles 
north of London. The twilight is long and late. I was 
reading a badly-printed Scotch newspaper this evening 
by daylight at half-past eight. 

Labor is cheap here, and yet boys do men's work, such 
as driving carts and sweeping the streets. 

The drives in and about Edinburgh are very attract- 
ive, and there are no better roads anywhere. 

There are tram-cars in the city : fare, inside, two 
pence ; "on top," one penny. There are also two lines 
of cable cars. 

In a " distillery agent's" window, in Princes street, I 
saw flasks of wine marked "two shillings." I stepped 
in and bought a flask. "One penny more," remarked 
the salesman. " For what." said I, inquiringly. " For 
the cork." When I reached my hotel I applied a cork- 
screw ; it wouldn't budge. The penny "cork" was a 
glass stopper with a " worm," to screw on and off. 

It strikes a stranger as rather odd to see men and boys 
carry so much on their heads and to see them balance 
their loads with such nicety. Instead of using small, 
light push carts, or delivering goods in baskets hanging 
on the arm, as is done in New York, Edinburgh boys 
use a tray or flat board with an edge turned up, in which 
they carry vegetables, meat, poultry, fruit, etc. This 
tray is placed on the head and is scarcely ever touched 



122 TAKIN' NOTES, 

by the hand except to load or unload. The head in 
Edinburgh is made to do good physical service. 

The house still stands, and is likely to stand for cen- 
turies, in which Walter Scott lived for years, and in 
which he wrote several of his novels. It is of granite, 
with a rounded (swelled) front, three stories high and 
about thirty feet wide. You must look it up when you 
go to Edinburgh — No. 39 Castle street. It is now used for 
office purposes, and is tenanted by doctors, lawyers, civil 
engineers and the like. In the transom window, over the 
door, you will see a small marble bust of the novelist. 

Princes street, the principal street, is not very long, 
only about one mile, but as far as it goes it is not easily 
surpassed in any city. On one side are the principal 
hotels and business blocks, all of granite or freestone ; 
on the other side are the handsome Princes Gardens 
with monuments and the magnificent Art Institute in 
the foreground, and in the background such buildings as 
the Castle, several churches and the Bank of Scotland. 

The gardens, with their terraces, gravel walks, foun- 
tains, rustic seats, lawns and flower-beds are uncom- 
monly attractive. It would seem that nowhere are the 
flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in 
the Princes Gardens. 

Blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in 
George street, not so crowded a thoroughfare as Princes 
street, but in which a very select business is transacted. 

Thomas Nelson & Sons have the largest book publish- 
ing establishment in Scotland — I was going to say in 
Great Britain. Their business buildings cover a vast 
space, and the late Mr. Nelson's residence, not far from 
Holyrood Palace and Arthur's Seat, is one of the most 
attractive private citizens' residences in this part of the 
country. It was only two or three years ago, so a coach- 
man informed me, that Mr. Nelson gave ten thousand 
pounds to restore the front of the castle. 

David Douglas, whose retail house is at No. 9 Castle 



TAKIN' NOTES^ 128 

street, makes a specialty of publishing and republishing 
works of American authors, and finds his profit in it. 
You may pick up on his counters almost anything of 
Longfellow, Holmes, Lowell, Howells, Winter and 
Aldrich. Winter's ''Shakespeare in England" and a 
later work, " Gray Days and Gold," were both published 
by Douglas, duplicate plates being sent over to Mac- 
millan of New York. 

Talk of books being expensive in England : these 
very books by Winter which Macmillan sells in New 
York at seventy-five cents each, Douglas publishes at 
two shillings ; in paper covers for one shilling — twenty- 
five cents. 

Douglas's people tell me that Winter's books find a 
ready sale in Great Britain. The critics and the reading 
public are delighted with his sketches of English and 
Scotch scenery, and especially with his scholarly and 
beautiful descriptions of Stratford-on-Avon and Shake- 
speare's country. They think that no author has writ- 
ten with more reverence and feeling about Shakespeare. 
They find **his language poetical and his style artistic, 
with a Meissonier-like finish." 

Fruits and Flowers. — In Scotland herrings are al- 
ways sold by pairs, haddocks by threes. In England 
and Scotland fruit is sold by the pound, so are vegeta- 
bles : and this fair and excellent method proves satis- 
factory to buyer and seller. Flowers and fruit are sold 
in the same shop : the signs read, " fruiterer and florist. " 
Flowers are very high in price. They use growing 
flowers and living plants in pots very freely to decorate 
the dinner table, but this idea, which is pretty enough 
in its way, is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms. So 
many tall plants make the table look dark and heavy, 
and the broad leaves prevent you from seeing your 
neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of 
the table, for in some hotels they still persist in using 
the ukl-fashioned long tables which are neither home- 



124 TAKIN' NOTES, 

like nor comfortable. Choice fruit, being either im- 
ported from the warmer climates or grown under glass, 
is very expensive in the British kingdom. You pay 
sixpence or a shilling for a peach or nectarine ; two 
shillings each for choice varieties. The largest and 
handsomest peach ever grown, possibly, or certainly 
ever shown, was exhibited last summer in a shop win- 
dow in Buchanan street, Glasgow. It weighed eighteen 
ounces, price three-and-sixpence. 

The capital of Scotland is always spelled Edinburgh, 
but is always pronounced Edinboro'. 

In the stamp department of the post-office in Edin- 
burgh there is a shallow indentation about four inches 
square in the table, in which a piece of felt is kept con- 
stantly damp, Instead of putting the stamp on your 
tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it 
on the envelope. Small matter, but very convenient, and 
shows thoughtfulness on the part of the authorities. 

Street Religion. — There's a great deal of poverty 
and drunkenness in Edinburgh, but there is also a great 
deal of religion. All the churches are well attended on 
Sunday, and there are preaching, praying and singing 
in the public streets. Church choirs, men and women, 
stand and sing in the public highvvays. In the low^er 
quarters of the city they attract people with a harmon- 
ium, which is wheeled about from place to place. Passers- 
by stop, join in the singing, and in fine weather uncover 
their heads! The singers are not paid for their services. 

The Dogs. — Here's a hint for the society which Mr. 
Henry Bergh founded : — On the sidewalk in front of 
large shops and pubhc buildings in Glasgow and Edin- 
burgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels filled 
with water for passing dogs. The vessel is simply and 
legibly marked " Dog." Probably the dogs cannot read, 
but they seem to know or to "nose out" the shops 
where such a humane practice is carried out. But a cer- 
tain Scotch editor contends that Scotch dogs can read. 



TAKIN' NOTES. 125 

India Rubber Pavement. — The attention of every 
stranger who walks in Princes street, Edinburgh, is 
immediately arrested as soon as he gets in front of a 
certain shop, nearly opposite the castle, where rubber 
goods are sold. His attention is arrested because he 
finds himself on a yielding pavement. It is a rubber 
"sidewalk" (as we say in New York), and was laid 
there by the enterprising shopkeeper. It is very pleas- 
ant and comfortable to walk on, and so durable that the 
authorities have talked about putting down rubber 
pavements on both sides of Princes street. 

Glasgow University. — There is not much for the 
tourist to see in Glasgow except the university, the 
cathedral, founded in the fourteenth century, and the 
municipal buildings. But the first-named is worth walk- 
ing many miles to visit, if one is interested in such 
things. I spent several hours in the university with 
pleasure and profit. This university, Glasgow people 
claim, is the finest in Scotland. It accommodates twenty- 
three hundred students who pay an average of forty 
pounds a year. It is generously endowed. The build- 
ings are of granite and present a noble appearance, 
standing on very high ground in their own large park, 
which is beautifully laid out with terraces, flower beds 
and gravel walks. There are some grand old trees in 
the park, and a pretty winding lake, over which are 
thrown many picturesque bridges. Though it is a seat 
of learning, you will not expect the services of a college 
professor as a cicerone, but you might naturally expect 
to hear fair English spoken. The liveried servant who 
guides you will tell you, with strong aspirations, of the 
" helementary " classes and the " school of harts." In 
describing the modus operandi of taking the gold medal, 
the graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair, which 
is several hundred years old, you will be told "it's a 
very 'igh honor." 

In the '* Edinburgh Cafe," a fairish kind of restaurant 



126 TAKIN' NOTES. 

in Princes street, opposite the Scott monument, a penny 
is charged for the privilege of washing your hands, and 
a penny for the use of a napkin. The majority of this 
cafe's customers, however, if the truth must be told, 
make a mouchoir serve for a serviette. 

Slippers Supplied Free. — If you go to Philp's Cock- 
' burn (pronounced Coburn) Hotel in Edinburgh, it mat- 
ters not if you have forgotten to pack your slippers in 
your portmanteau, for the porter will provide you witn 
a pair. One hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are 
kept at this hotel for the use of guests. A foot of any 
size can be accommodated, and there is no charge. 

Smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of Scotch hotels, 
and a notice to that effect is posted in each room. 
" Smoking rooms" are provided, and only such apart- 
ment may be used for this purpose. They are both 
smoky and dingy. 

An Edinburgh Dollar Dinner. — I have dined at the 
leading hotels in New York, at ' 'The States, " in Saratoga, 
the Breslin, at Lake Hopatcong, and my experience in- 
cludes the leading hotels in the principal European cap- 
itals, and the leading hotels in the Southern and far 
Western States, as far as California, yet I can say that 
the table d'hote dinner served at Philp's Cockburn Hotel, 
Edinburgh (one Sunday last summer), will rank with 
the fare at any of these houses, and it excels the table 
d'hote at some high-priced hotels in London and Paris. 
Yet the price charged for this dinner was very moder- 
ate — only four shillings, about one dollar. The dinner 
included grouse, peaches, strawberries and nectarines, 
and from the hare soup down to the dessert, everything 
was well cooked and nicely served. The charge is re- 
markably moderate when it is understood that this is a 
' ' temperance house, " and when you know that the choice 
fruit is grown under glass at high cost. The dinner would 
have been perfect with cafe 7toir at the close, but this is 
not served in British hotels without additional charge. 



THE BURNS MONUMENT. 



If Baltimore is the monumental city of the United 
States, Edinburgh may surely be called the monument- 
al city of the United Kingdom. The majority of its 
public buildings, of freestone or granite, are noble 
structures standing on hills in the heart of the city, and 
for their situation alone would command admiration — 
the old Castle, Nelson monument, the city prison, the 
National Gallery, the Bank of Scotland, etc. No bank 
in the world occupies a more commanding site than the 
one just named. Owing to the peculiar natural forma- 
tion of the land upon which the city is built, an observer 
may stand in one spot in Edinburgh (say the Waverley 
Gardens) and see a greater number of splendid build- 
ings at a glance than may be seen simultaneously from 
the level in any other city. 

Not among the largest by any means but among the 
most interesting must be reckoned the Burns monument, 
which occupies a high position near its still higher 
neighbor, the Nelson monument, on Calton Hill. The 
Burns monument was built in 1830 for the purpose of 
containing a marble statue of the poet by Flaxman. 
The building, of freestone, is a circular temple on a 
quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of 
twelve Corinthian columns which support an entabla- 
ture and cornice. Over this is a cupola, a restoration of 
the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The whole is 
surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins. 
The extreme height of the structure is fifty feet, the 
twelve outside columns are fourteen feet high and the 
twelve inside columns are ten feet high. The latter 

127 



128 THE BURNS MONUMENT. 

are of freestone painted to represent variegated marble. 
The cost of the monument and statue was three thou- 
sand three hundred pounds sterling (about sixteen thou- 
sand five hundred dollars) — not a large sum considering 
the result attained. 

Besides the statue of the poet, the monument holds a 
number of relics— letters written by or to Burns, the 
worm-eaten three-legged stool upon which the poet sat 
in 1786 and 'Z'j while correcting the proofs of his poems, 
and other things of interest. A letter from the poet to 
his cousin, James Burness, and dated Lochee, 21st June, 
1783, complains of the depressed state of the country 
during the American war. As is well known, the poet 
spelled his name Burness (his family name) until the 
publication of his poems in 1786. Another letter to his 
cousin, dated Mossgiel, August 3, 1784, describes the 
fanatical religious sect that had sprung up in the neigh- 
borhood of Dumfries headed by a mad woman named 
Buchan. Hence they called themselves Buchanites. 
The subjoined manuscript poem accompanied a gift of 
fresh eggs from Burns's wife to Alexander Findlater : 

Dear sir, our lacky humbly begs 
Yell pree her caller new-laid Eggs 
And grant the cock may keep his legs 
Aboon the chuckles. 
Ell e stand, December 22, 1^88. 

One of the most interesting letters is here given in 
full: 
To 

Mr. James Burness 

Writer, Montrose. 
My Dear Cousin : 

When you offered me money assistance, Httle did I 
think I should want it so soon. A rascal of a haber- 
dasher to whom 1 owe a considerable bill, taking into 
his head that I am dying, has commenced a process 
against me and will infallibly put my emaciated body 
into jail. Will you be so good as to accommodate me. 



THE BURNS MONUMENT. 129 

and that by return of post, with ten pounds. O, James, 
did you know the pride of my heart you would feel doubly 
for me. Alas, I am not used to beg. The worse of it is 
my health was coming about finely, you know, and my 
physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits 
are half my disease Guess then my horrors since this 
business began. If I had it settled I would be, I think, 
quite well in a manner. O, do not disappoint me. But 
strong necessity's curst command." I have been think- 
ing over my brother's affairs, and I fear I must cut him 
up, but on this I will correspond at another time, par- 
ticularly as I shall your advice. Forgive me for 

once more mention — by return of post save me from the 
horrors of a jail. 

My compliments to my friend James, and to all the 
rest. I do not know what I have written, the subject is 
so horrible I dare not look it over again, r'arewell, 

Robert Burns. 

July 12, Tewsday. 

The letter to John Tennent Auchenbey, thanking him 
for his kind present of a cask of whiskey, and praising 
its strength and good quality, betrayed the poet's great 
weakness. It is dated Eltenland, December 22, 1788. 

Another characteristic letter in a different strain, is 
worth quoting in full : 

To Mrs. Dunlop, 

Of Dunlop. 

I have received twins, dear madam, more than once, 
but scarcely ever with more pleasure than when I re- 
ceived yours of the 12th instant. To make myself un- 
derstood, I had wrote to Mr. Graham inclosing my poem 
addressed to him, and the same post that favored mc 
with yours brought me an answer from him. It was 
dated the very day he had received mine, and I am 
quite at a loss to say whether it was more polite or kind. 
Vour criticisms, my honored benefactress, are truly the 
work of a friend. They are not the blasting depreda- 
tions of a canker-toothed caterpillar critic, nor are they 
fair statements of cold impartiality balancing with un- 
feeling exactitude the pro and con of an author's merits ; 
they are the judicious observations of animated friend- 
ship selecting the beauties of the pen. I have just 



130 THE BURNS MONUMENT, 

arrived from Nithsdale and will be here a fortnight. I 
was on horseback this morning (for between my wife 
and my farm is just forty-six miles) by three o'clock. 
As I jogged on in the dark I was taken with a poetic fit 

as follows: Mrs. T. , of C . Lamentations for 

the death of her son, an uncommonly promising youth 
of eighteen or nineteen years of age : 

Fate gave the wound — the arrow sped 
And pierced my darling's heart. 

You will not send me your poetic rambles, but you see 
1 am no niggard of mine. I am sure your impromptus 
gave me double pleasure. What falls from your pen 
can be neither uninteresting in itself nor indifferent to 
me. The one fault you find is just, but I cannot please 
myself in an emendation. 

I will pay the sapient-potent George [reference to 
postage] most cheerfully to hear from you ere I leave 
Ayrshire. I have the honor to be, dear madam, your 
much obliged,- humble servant, Robert Burns. 

Among other relics are the lease or tack of the farm 
of Ellesland taken from Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, 
the gentleman who launched the first steamboat in the 
world in 1788 ; the manuscript of a poem, *' The Kirk's 
Alarm ; " excise return by the poet from Dumfries dis- 
trict, 1794; manuscript poems by Clarinda, ** Autumn 
of Life ; " portion of manuscript of Kilmarnock edition, 
1786; portraits of the poet by Nasmyth, Skewing and 
Taylor. Relics of the poet's personal property are not 
wanting. There is a wooden trencher or cheese plate 
from Possie Nancy's, where Burns wrote **The Jolly 
Beggars;" a wine glass used by the poet; an oak 
mallet made from the rafter of AUoway's auld haunted 
kirk and used by Burns as deputy master of the Tar- 
bolton Mason Lodge, 1794; a sword cane used by him 
while in the excise, and his favorite knife and fork. 
There is also a curious delft jug which belonged to Mrs. 
Bruce, of Clackmanan, a friend of Burns. She was a 
descendant of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, and on 
Burns's last visit she knighted him with an old sword 



THE BURNS MONUMENT, 131 

that belonged to the king; saying *'she had as much 
right to do so as any other body." 

Others matters of interest to those who love the poet 
are a snuff-box made from the printing press at which 
his first edition of poems was printed in Kilmarnock, 
1786 ; a sneeshan mull, or snuff horn, which belonged to 
Highland Mary's father, 1758; Indian china cup and 
saucer that belonged to Miss Alexander, the bonny lass 
of Balochmyll ; lock of hair which belonged to Miss 
Lorimer, the lassie wi' the tent white locks ; curious 
round oak silver-mounted snuff-box used by the poet, 
and presented to his trusty friend, George Richmond, 
1788 ; an apple presented by the poet to his brother 
Gilbert's wife as a wedding gift. 

Among the relics preserved in frames and hung on 
the walls is the printed newspaper report of Burns's 
death. This occurred at Dumfries, July 21, 1796, and 
the report appeared in the London Herald of July 27 — 
nearly one week after. The London Herald oi that day 
was a very small sheet, about fifteen inches long and 
only four columns wide, price fourpence halfpenny a 
copy. The obituary notice is unique, and is worth re- 
producing to-day : 

DEATH OF" IMR. ROBKRT BURNS, 

THE CELEBRATED POET. 

" On the 2 1 St instant died at Dumfries, after a linger- 
ing illness, the celebrated Robert Burns. His poetical 
compositions, distinguished equally by the force of 
native humor, by the warmth and tenderness of passion, 
and by the glowing touches of a descriptive pencil, will 
remain a lasting monument of the vigor and versatility 
of a mind, guided only by the light of nature and the 
inspirations of genius. The public, to whose amusement 
he so largely contributed, will learn with regret that 
the last months of his short life were spent in sickness 
and indigence, and his widow with five infant children, 
and in the hourly expectation of a sixth, is now left 
without any resource but what she may hope from the 
regard due to the memory of her husband." 



132 



THE BURNS MONUMENT, 



Monuments, however, are not Edinburgh's only at- 
tractions, but do not count on seeing the sights there on 
Sunday. The day is closely and strictly observed. 
London is surely quiet enough on a Sunday, but it is 
gayety itself when compared with the capital of Scot- 
land. Not a shop is open ; even the drug shops are 
open only during two hours. Ever^^thing is shut as 
tight as a drum in Edinburgh except the churches, and 
to these you must either walk or hire a carriage, for not 
a wheel of an omnibus or car turns on Sunday. 





THE BURNS MONUMENT. 



I 



CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 



There are many ways of "crossing" between the 
Continent and the Eiighsh coast, or vice versa. The 
best steamers between England and Holland are those 
which go from Rotterdam to Harwich. Harwich (An- 
glice, Harridge) is about a two hours' run up to London. 
I have tried the different ways of crossing from the 
French coast to England — via Newhaven and Dieppe, 
Folkstone and Boulogne, and Calais and Dover. The 
last route is by far the best. It would be preferred 
over all others, if for only one reason, because it is the 
shortest, the English Channel being "disagreeable" at 
least one half the year. The Calais and Dover boats 
are advertised to make the trip between the two points 
"in seventy minutes," and they do actually make it in 
one hour and a quarter. The other routes are much 
longer. No small craft that ply on the English waters 
are as beautiful in their appointments as our Hudson 
river boats, or those for instance of the P'all River line, 
but they are staunch and swift, and they are manned by 
as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a deck. The 
English boats are proof against wind and wave, the 
only danger being from fire or fog, but as they are 
officered by skillful and experienced navigators, and 
are very carefully handled, the danger is reduced to a 
minimum, 



PARIS HOTELS. 



Paris is not in the least behind other cities in the 
number of its hotels nor in the variety of accommoda- 
tions offered. Your choice must depend first upon the 
length of your purse ; second, upon the length of your 
stay ; third, the purpose of your visit. The number in 
the party and their individual tastes and requirements 
must also be taken into account. 

I have not passed near so much time in Paris as in 
London. The most I can do is to suggest some of the 
choicest hotels dcud. pejisions with which I am acquainted, 
giving their rates and distinctive features. 

For information as to Where to Dine in Paris I must 
refer the reader to a chapter further on, entitled * ' The 
Restaurants of Paris," by the late writer and con- 
noisseur in many arts, Mr. Theodore Child. It first 
appeared in a book entitled " Living Paris," which was 
published in London four years ago by Ward & Dow- 
ney, and is the most complete and comprehensive Guide 
to Paris I have ever seen. 



THE GRAND HOTEL. 



The Grand Hotel is one of the largest and most ex- 
pensive. It is grand in size ; grand in appointments. It 
is not a cheap house in any sense of that term, and pos- 
sibly for that reason is largely patronized by Americans. 
The building occupies a square block facing that mag- 
nificent street, Avenue de 1' Opera, diagonally across 

134 



PARIS HOTELS. 135 

from the Grand Opera House. It encloses a large court- 
yard with fountains and parterres. The caves of the 
Grand are ranked as one of the sights of Paris ; they are 
stocked with the choicest of wines. Rooms from six 
francs per day ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, five 
francs ; table d'hote dinner, eight francs with wine. 
Board and lodging complete (American plan), from 
twenty francs per day. 



HOTEL CONTINENTAL. 



The Continental, on the corner of the rue de Rivoli 
and rue Castiglione, is opposite the gardens of the 
Tuileries. Near by are Hotel des Invalides, the Madel- 
eine, the Eiffel Tower and other interesting buildings. 
It is large and elegant — grander than the Grand. The 
grounds, with the structure and furnishing are said to 
have cost some millions of francs. 

The rates at the Continental are a little lower than at 
the Grand. They range all the way from five francs to 
thirty-five francs per day for room ; lights and attend- 
ance extra. Breakfast of coffee, chocolate or tea with 
rolls, from one to two francs ; breakfast proper, or de- 
jetmer a la fourchctte, five francs, wine and coffee in- 
cluded. Table d'hote dinner, seven francs. At many 
Paris hotels wine is included in the charge for dinner, 
but at the Continental on Sundays, champagne as well 
as vin ordinaire is served free, but not, as in the case of 
the latter, in unlimited quantity. 



HOTEL MEURICE. 



Smaller than these two hotels and for that reason 
thought by some to be more select is the Hotel Meurice, 
in rue de Rivoli. It is near rue Castiglione and oppo- 



136 PARIS HOTELS^ 

site the Tuileries gardens, altogether a beautiful loca- 
tion. Issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning 
to the left, a few minutes walk brings you to the Palais 
Royal and the Louvre galleries ; or turning to the right a 
few steps bring you past the hotel Continental, to Place 
de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees. It may seem 
strange to those who have not lived in continental 
hotels, to note that the hotel Meurice is scrupulously 
clean. You observe this in its beautiful courtyard, in 
its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept bed- 
rooms. 

The hotel is patronized by leading New York families 
and by the best English society, and it ranks as does 
the Brunswick or the Victoria in New York. The cuisine 
of the house is famous and its cellars contain rare wines. 
Hotel Meurice was established in 1815 and its present 
proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years. If 
your stay in Paris is to cover a week or more, you — - 
and especially the ladies of your party — will find this 
hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn ; Bae- 
deker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are 
accompanied by ladies. Hotel Meurice has electric 
light, and new plumbing was put in a few years ago. 
It accommodates two hundred guests. Single rooms 
from five francs per day ; apartments from fifteen to 
one hundred francs. Table d'hote dinner, at six P.M., 
six francs. Proprietor, H. Scheurich ; address, 228 rue 
de Rivoli. 



HOTEL CHATHAM. 



Hotel Chatham is justly famed as one of the most ele- 
gantly appointed of Paris hotels. I have known it for 
twenty years, and for twenty-five years it has been the 



PARIS HOTELS, 137 

temporary home of travellers of all nations, — those who 
demand the best hotel accommodations, and for which 
yon pay only a moderate price. Single rooms from five 
francs per day ; luncheon, four francs ; table d'hote 
dinner, six francs. Hotel Chatham occupies a central 
location, near the Opera, rue de la Paix, the theatres, 
and the best shopping streets. The first feature of the 
Hotel Chatham that attracts attention is the large, li^ht, 
and spacious courtyard, fifty by one hundred feet. It 
makes an impression that gains in favor when you see 
the apartments. The grand salon, the reading-room and 
cafe look out upon this court^^ard, which is embellished 
with flowers. 

The sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished, 
have plenty of light and good ventilation. There are 
elegant suites, also choice single and double rooms. 
The decorations are in good taste. In the best apart- 
ments the walls are not hung with paper, but are cov- 
ered with stuffs — a mixture of worsted and soft silks. 
Hot and cold water on every floor. Two features especi- 
ally commend themselves to those who are acquainted 
with foreign hotels ; there are two Otis elevators, and 
the house is lighted throughout by electricity — shed- 
ding a light in the rooms, not of one bougie, but of 
twenty. The cuisine represents the perfection of the 
culinary art, and the wine-cellars are celebrated for 
their famous vintages. 

The Hotel Chatham is the home of the best people 
and many Americans annually seek its hospitality. The 
Harpers, for instance, members of the great publishing- 
house, are among its regular guests. The present pro- 
prietor is M. H. Holzschuch, son of the late owner, 
under whom the house acc[uired its wide fame. Hotel 
Chatham is at 17 and 19 rue Daunou, between rue de 
la Paix and Boulevard des Capucines. 



138 PARIS HOTELS. 

HOTEL BINDA. 



Everybody in Paris knows the Hotel Binda, and it is 
known by a great many people who have never been in 
Paris. With New Yorkers the house is a favorite be- 
cause it is kept by Mr. Charles Binda who for years was 
manager of Delmonico's, and this settles at once and 
satisfactorily the important question of cuisine. The 
house was opened in 1878. It is solidly built of stone, 
five stories high, and is an imposing structure. It stands 
in rue de I'Echelle, on a corner of the avenue de TOpera, 
the principal business street of Paris, and probably the 
handsomest shopping street in the world. It is most con- 
veniently located for the principal places of interest — • 
the Grand Opera, Palais Royal, the Louvre galleries, 
etc. One minute's walk brings you to the rue de Rivoli, 
that wide open street, one side of which is flanked by 
the open and beautiful gardens of the Tuileries. 

If in the heat of a summer day in walking to Place 
Vendome or to the Champs Elysees, you wish to avoid 
sunny rue de Rivoli, shade is at your very door in the 
narrow but picturesque rue St. Honore, which, with its 
little shops, its hotels, old churches, etc., is a feature 
of outdoor life in Paris. 

The Grand Opera is at the other end of the Avenue 
de rOpera, a short walk. But omnibuses pass the door, 
by which you can reach any part of Paris at the expense 
of a few sous. And, for that matter, it is only a thirty- 
cent cab fare to the Grand Opera, to the offices of the 
American Minister, Whitelaw Reid, in Avenue Hoche, or 
,to the Anglo-American Bank on the corner of Chaussee 
d' An tin and rue Meyerbeer. Cocker will go fast enough 
if by the course and slow enough (too slow) if by the 
hour. 

Instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in Paris 
have, and which in some cases are useless, the space on 



PARIS HOTELS. 139 

the ground floor is used by the Binda for a grand, glass- 
enclosed reception and reading-room, beautifully lighted 
by day and by night. There is also a grand drawing- 
room and a smoking-room, which unlike the dingy 
rooms turned over to the use of men in some English 
hotels is, in the Binda, a very bright and attractive 
apartment. 

All the apartments are comfortably and tastefully 
furnished, but some of the rooms are furnished in pala- 
tial style. There are baths on every floor and some 
rooms have running water. Of course there are electric 
lights and an ascenseur, Anglice "lift." But for all its 
grandeur, one may live at the Binda at moderate cost. 

If you know about how wide you wish to open your 
purse in selecting apartments you can tell as precisely 
as you could in an American hotel how much your bill 
will amount to for a stay of five days or ^w^ weeks. Single 
rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day ; 
double rooms from fourteen to thirty francs. Special 
rates, lower than these, are made to guests remaining a 
length of time. Here is the tariff for the dining-room : 
Plain breakfast (tea or chocolate) if. 50c., about 30 
cents ; table d'hote dinner, served at separate tables, 6f., 
servant's board 6f. per day. No charge is made for at- 
tendance. 

That Charles Binda is proprietor is guarantee that 
the table is equal to the Windsor in New York, or 
the Albemarle in London, and these satisfy the most 
fastidious. Mr. Binda is famous for his cuisine, but he 
prides himself most upon the quality of his guests. 
He demands that above and beyond everything else 
his house shall be select, and it is so in the fullest 
sense. Mail address. No. 1 1 rue de I'Echelle. Cable, 
" Binda ; Paris." 



140 PARIS HOTELS. 

HOTEL METROPOLE. 



There are several comparatively small but decidedly 
pleasant hotels in rue Castiglione — Hotel Liverpool, 
Hotel Balmoral and Hotel Metropole. The last-named 
is especially to be commended for its choice location, 
the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms, its appetizing 
cuisine, and its remarkably moderate charges. It is in 
rue Castiglione, directly opposite the Continental ; two 
blocks one way from the Column Vendome, two blocks 
from the Place de la Concorde, near the Champs 
Elysees, and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful 
gardens of the Tuileries. 

Like the majority of Paris hotels, the Metropole 
is entered by a court-yard, but unlike some of them, 
the ventilation and lighting, of the house are good. It 
has ample room for more than one hundred guests, and 
they can be made very comfortable. 

The house is kept on the American as well as on the 
European plan. If you adopt the system which prevails 
abroad, you may hire a single room as low as four 
francs per day, or a double room for seven francs per 
day. Breakfast, three francs ; luncheon, four francs ; 
table d'hote dinner, five francs. This figure includes 
good wine in qitaniinn sicfficit, as a medical man might 
say. As at nearly all Continental hotels, " service " is 
charged. In this instance it is one franc per day ; and 
yoVi pa}^ for lights — item sevent^^-five centimes, about 
fifteen cents. 

But if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and 
save the bother of reckoning, you can stay at the 
Metropole and 3'our whole bill per day for board, lodging, 
lights, wine, etc., will be the moderate sum of fifteen 
francs (three dollars), which, considering the excellent 
table and the attention }'()u receive, is a low rate. 

If you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set, the 
Bristol is your house ; if you want to see and be with 



PARIS HOTELS. 141 

Americans only, then select the Grand. The Continen- 
tal is the place for those who would feast their eyes on 
palatial salons ; at the Metropole you will get into the 
company of good people from different countries, you 
can be quiet and comfortable and made to feel at home, 
as is to be expected in a smaller house. Moreover, your 
purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance with the 
figures given above. Proprietor, X. Silvani ; address, 
No. 6 rue Castiglione. 

Hotel de Lille et d' Albion, in rue vSt. Honore, is 
not a very large house, but it is ranked among the best, 
although its charges are quite moderate. It has baths, 
lift, electric light and English billiard tables, its modern 
contrivances including telephonic communication with 
the leading European cities. The sanitary arrangements 
are said to be perfect. The location is central for shop- 
ping, for places of amusement and points of interest, 
being near Place Vendome, Tnileries Gardens and the 
Opera. Mail address, 223 rue St. Honore ; telegraph 
address, Lillalbion, Paris. 

Hotel Bristol and Hotel du Rhin both front on the 
Place Vendome ; you can't miss them ; they are near 
the tall and graceful Column \"endome which pierces 
the sky from the centre of the square. There is no 
question as to the excellence of either of these houses. 
Both are patronized by a select class of patrons ; the 
former is the home of the Prince of Wales when he 
visits Paris. 

Hotel Liverpool is patronized by the Astors. To 
Americans this information conveys more than could be 
detailed in a whole page of description. It is situated 
at 1 1 rue Castiglione, a wide and fashionable thorough- 
fare leading from Place Vendome to the Tuileries Gar- 
dens. The house was recentl}" newly fitted up and has 
a hydraulic lift. There are large apartments for fami- 
lies making a more or less prolonged stay ; smaller 
apartments for transient guests. 



142 PARIS HOTELS, 

Hotel de l'Athenee. — Of hotels just as select as any 
of those mentioned, there are a score or more. Among 
them may be mentioned the Hotel de l'Athenee, 1 5 rue 
Scribe. It was recently enlarged, the whole of the 
Theatre de l'Athenee having been added, and the former 
dining-room is now converted into a reading room. There 
are two bath-rooms on each floor. The appointments 
include a parlor, a reading room, a restaurant a la carte, 
and two private dining-rooms. There are 1 80 rooms in all, 
which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day, but 
there are not very many rooms in the house at four francs. 

Hotel Campbell. — The Hotel Campbell, at 61 and 63 
Avenue de Friedland, has one of the best sites in Paris 
for a family house. It stands on the highest ground, 
the location being healthy, beautiful, select and fashion- 
able — a few steps from the Champs Elysees and the Arc 
de Triomphe. The house is six stories high, built of 
stone, and has an imposing front, standing on the corner 
of rue Tilsit and avenue de Friedland, a wide and grand 
boulevard. The salon is richly furnished. There is a 
new dining-room covered with glass and flooded with 
light. House heated by steam ; lift, electric light, all 
modern contrivances. Mr. Arthur Geissler, the present 
proprietor, took the house about three years ago, since 
which time he has enlarged it, making also great 
changes and improvements. Mr. Geissler's native 
tongue is German, but he converses easily in English, 
speaks Italian and, of course, French. There are 
accommodations for one hundred guests at from twelve 
and a half francs per day for room and three meals, 
everything included but wine and lights. Still more 
moderate terms to families who make a protracted stay. 
Address letters and telegrams " Hotel Campbell, Paris." 

Hotel de Castille. — This is at No. 37 rue Cambon, a 
narrow, but pleasant street running off from the Boule- 
vard des Italiens, and leading to Place Vendome, a con- 
venient place for those who desire to be near shopping 



PARIS HOTELS. 143 

and amusement centres. From above the ground floor 
there is a pleashig front outlook, the hotel standing 
opposite the gardens attached to the residence of the 
Minister of Justice. The public rooms, on the first floor, 
are very pretty ; the bedrooms have high ceilings and 
are richly furnished, many having pictures in oil on the 
walls. Modern conveniences — electric light, lift, baths, 
hot and cold water on every floor. One hundred and 
fifty guests accommodated. There is a large and hand- 
some courtyard in which, during warm weather, meals 
are served, al fresco, under a decorated canopy. The 
proprietor of Hotel Castille, James F. Wullschleger, is a 
young Swiss. He speaks German fluently, as well as 
Italian, and Americans will not find him at all deficient 
in the English tongue. Breakfast, one and a half francs ; 
luncheon, four francs ; dinner, five francs, wine not in- 
cluded. Mail and cable address, '' Hotel Castille, Paris." 
Hotel La Tremoille. — The Hotel Tremoille (for- 
merly Hotel Pension Lafond) is in rue de la Tremoille, 
a quiet, select and beautiful location, on the corner of 
rue de la Tremoille and rue Boccador. The neighbor- 
hood is known as the Quartier Marboeuf-Champs 
Ely sees, and the Arc de Triomphe is but a few steps 
distant. The house has ascenseiw, baths and water on 
every floor ; the salon is handsome, and the bed-rooms 
are beautifull}^ furnished. Accommodation for one 
hundred guests. Single rooms from six to ten francs 
per day ; room for two persons from eight to twelve 
francs per day. Breakfast from two to four francs ; 
luncheon, from two to four francs ; seven o'clock din- 
ner, five francs, wine not included. Arrangements for 
complete board (three meals), rooms, service, every- 
thing included, from ten to fifteen francs per day for 
one person. Board for children under seven, six francs 
per day. The house has not changed proprietors for 
the past six years. Mail address, Madame Lafond. 14 
rue de la Tremoille : cable. Lafhotel, Paris. 



PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 



But you are not forced to patronize any hotel, large 
or small ; there are many very delightful pensions or 
boarding houses in Paris. These some people prefer, if 
their party includes ladies, or if they intend to make a 
protracted stay. A few of these pensions are presided 
over by American women. 

The Van Pelt Pension at 69 Boulevard St. Michel is 
kept by Mrs. E. L. Van Pelt, a New Orleans woman 
who took with her to Paris the best American refer- 
ences. This place has some features which commend 
it to the stranger in Paris. Its location, facing the 
Luxembourg Gardens, is near the famous art schools 
and the Sorbonne, where free lectures are given, thus 
making this a desirable residence for students. It is 
across the Seine, and yet within comparatively easy 
access by omnibus, cab or train to all parts of Paris and 
environs. The house stands on a corner, and all the 
rooms are exposed to the sun and air. Mrs. Van Pelt 
has accommodation for thirty guests. Rates from $2. 50 
to $3 per day, according to season and length of stay. 
Average about seventy-five francs per week ; no wine. 

American Family Home. — This term is appropriately 
applied to the pension de famiJle presided over by a 
young French widow, whose personal beauty and grace 
of manner are more than marked. Reference is made to 
Madame Veuve Leon Glatz, who is assisted in her duties 
by her sister. Both of them speak English with a pretty 
and piquant accent. The Glatz pension is in rue de 
Clichy, five minutes distant from St. Lazare Station and 
Park Monceau ; ten minutes from la Madeleine and the 
Opera. It was built in 1885 and is sanitarily correct ; 

144 



PJ^NS/OyS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 145 

supplied with new spring water from the new water 
works of Paris. There is a really grand salon in which 
musicalcs are given weekly. In the rear of this is a large 
and handsome garden, neatly kept — a very pretty loung- 
ing place on summer evenings. There are baths in the 
house, the bedrooms are nicely furnished, the service is 
good, and last, and by no means least worthy of note, 
is the table, which is liberally supplied ; the best as to 
quality. But Madame Glatz at present has only room 
for thirty guests and her house is in such demand that 
you must engage rooms months, or at least weeks, in 
advance. Terms, eight to fourteen francs per day, 
which is the full charge ; no extras, except, possibly, for 
lights. This is a favorite place with Americans of 
refinement ; others are not admitted to Madame Glatz's 
charming family circle. Address, 45 rue de Clichy. 

The Powers Pension.— One of the most desirable 
pensions in Paris, especially desirable for Americans, is 
kept not by a "charming Frenchwoman,'' nor by a 
"hearty " Britisher, but by a couple of cultivated, good 
Americans, well-known in New York — Mr. and Mrs. J. 
G. Powers, Jr. The house is in a high and delightful 
location, in the American quarter, 69 Avenue d'Antin, 
near the Champs Elysees. Mrs. Powers claims that it 
is "the most elegant and comfortable pension in Eu- 
rope, " and I, who have had some experience in hotels and 
pensions of the first rank, do not contradict the state- 
ment. I am not given to using the adjective " elegant " 
too freely, but elegant and tasteful are words that come 
to mind without summoning, in speaking of the Powers 
pension. The salon is a beautiful apartment ; yes, un- 
commonly beautiful. It is on Monday evenings more 
particularly that this salon looks its best, when the re- 
ceptions are held. The house, it is well worth noting, 
has been enlarged and greatly improved since last year. 
Mrs. Powers has the entire building, now, with sixty 
bedrooms. A hydraulic lift has been put in. and the 



146 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 

driveway which led from avenue D' An tin to the street 
parallel with it at the back, has been done away with. 
The space thus gained has been added to the dining- 
room, so that ninety guests can now sit down at one 
time. The Powers pension is a select family home in 
the strictest sense of the term, and the rates for board 
are quite reasonable ; pleasant rooms and three meals 
from ten francs per day. Make a note of the address — 
69 Avenue d'Antin. 

A Quiet Pension for Americans. — Number 7 Ave- 
nue du Trocadero is in the American residential quar- 
ter, three minutes' walk from the American Church. 
The avenue is handsome and very wide, admitting of 
an equestrian road and three rows of fine old sycamores 
between the sidewalks. No. 7 has been kept as sl pen- 
sion since 1872, and it is now under the care of two 
*' good Americans," who have had it for six years, and 
who have won the patronage of a quiet class of English 
people, the aim of the Seymours being to make it an 
attractive, comfortable, Christian home. Forty-five 
guests accommodated. Trams and 'buses pass the door 
every few minutes ; boats, within two minutes' walk, to 
all parts of the Seine. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour do not 
pretend to keep a fashionable or an elegant house for 
people having long purses and luxurious tastes, but the 
beds are good, the rooms look cozy and comfortable, 
and they claim that '*the cuisi?ie is oi the best." The 
rates at this periston are low — from $1. 50 to $2. 50 per day. 

Mrs. Crowther's is a select pension in which you will 
be entertained if you are willing to furnish references. 
This Mrs. Crowther will most gladly do, and thus, as a' 
former famous commander of the New York Seventh 
Regiment used to say, "honors are divided." I am 
acquainted with Americans who have stayed with Mrs. 
Crowther for months at a time so pleased were they 
with their surroundings and their host. Although select 
and choice and nicely situated, near the much-talked-of- 



PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 



147 



Arc de Triomphe, the rates here are moderate — from 
ten dollars a week. Address, Mrs. Crowther, No. 6 rue 
de Belloy. 

Villeneuve's House. — This is called an "American 
Pension," because it is largely patronized by Americans. 
The house has what so many New Yorkers demand — 
southern exposure ; it has elevator, baths, etc., and is 
tastefully furnished. The location, in rue Boccador, is 
most pleasant — in the Champs Elysees district. Address 
No. 12 rue Boccador. 

"A French Family Home," where French lessons are 
given, is Mme. Tonnot's, in that attractive avenue 
named for Baron Haussmann, who did so much to im- 
prove Paris by widening the streets and beautifying the 
city. Tonnot's is convenient to avenue de I'Opera, the 
opera house and the shopping district. Address, No. 
52 bis Boulevard Haussmann. 




THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 



BY THEODORE CHILD. 



In order to anticipate criticism, and to avoid disap- 
pointment, it may be well to state at once that the art 
of cookery is in a terrible state of decadence in Paris. 
The men of the present generation do not seem to have 
the sentiment of the table ; they know neither its varied 
resources nor its infinite refinements ; their palates are 
dull, and they are content to eat rather than to dine. 
This decadence may be remarked both in private and in 
public establishments. The gourmet nowadays is a 
rarity, and a man of thirty years of age who knows how 
to order a dinner is a still greater rarity. One might 
discover many causes of this decline of a delicate art. 
The conditions of contemporary life, the hurry and un- 
rest of modern Paris, doubtless do not conduce to the 
appreciation of fine cooking ; but the chief cause of the 
decline of cookery in restaurants is the development of 
club life. The men of fashion, leisure, or wealth, who 
formerly would have lived at the restaurants, now dine 
at their clubs between two seances at the baccarat table, 
and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of regu- 
lar and fastidious customers which, by its readiness to 
criticise and appreciate, obliged and encouraged the 
chef to keep up the traditions of the dainty palates of 
the past. At present the great restaiirants of Paris de- 
pend for support as much on foreigners and on provin- 
cial people as on resident Parisians. The criticism of 
their cookery is less constant and less rigorous ; the bills 

J48 



THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 149 

of fare are less varied than they were of old ; the amour 
propre of the cooks is less ; in a word, cookery has be- 
come nowadays more an industry than an art. Even in 
the most famous Parisian restaurants the visitor must 
not expect too much in the way either of viands or of 
wines. 

In certain things, again, it must be remembered that 
the Parisian market is inferior to the markets of almost 
any town in England. The English visitor generally 
speaks disparagingly of the French oyster, for instance, 
doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor, and 
yet I know many connoisseurs who have travelled and 
dined in many lands who maintain that of all oysters 
the green Marennes {Marennes vertes) are the most deli- 
cate and delicious. The lovers of comparisons will ask 
what equivalents the French have for real turtle-soup, 
ox-tail, mulligatawny, and pea-soup with a sprinkling of 
dried mint and sippets. Is it their bisqice or puree of 
crayfish, their consomme de volatile, their Saint Germain, 
or green pea-soup, their Parmejitier, or thick potato- 
soup ? But the traveller does not go to Paris to eat the 
food of his native land, but rather to enjoy the particu- 
lar food of the country. Therefore, he must not expect 
to get fine salmon, or cod-fish, or turbot, or even mack- 
erel in Paris. The city is too far away from the sea to 
have good salt-water fish. Salmon in Paris is dry and 
of poor flavor ; fresh cod-fish is rarely seen, and the 
habits of the restaurants render it impossible to eat such 
salmon and turbot as there is in favorable conditions. 
In a London restaurant a whole salmon or a whole tur- 
bot is served hot like the joints ; in a Paris restaurant, 
if you order boiled salmon or turbot. the cook cuts a 
slice off a parboiled fish, puts the slice in the pot, and 
boils it up for you. The result is tmsatisfactory. As a 
rule, I should say, in a Parisian restaurant eat your 
salmon and your turbot cold, and prefer to both a red 
mullet {rouget), a sole, a trout, or some fresh- water fish. 



150 THE REST A URANTS OF PARIS, 

A carefully prepared 7natelotte d'anguilles, which is not 
precisely the same as stewed eels, andifriture de Seiner 
which need not be compared to whitebait, are both 
dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure. 

The French are poor roasters ; the roast beef and 
roast mutton in their restaurants cannot for a moment 
be compared with the joints at Simpson's or Blan chard's 
in London. Pies -and puddings also are unknown to the 
French, with the exception oi pates de foie gras and game 
pies. The French, again, eat their game very fresh and 
less cooked than the English. Generally, I think that 
the raw material^ of the Parisian restaurant cuisine is 
inferior to that of English restaurants ; on the other 
hand, with the limitations referred to above, particularly 
as regards roasting, the preparation of the dishes is 
superior, and in the first-class restaurants unique. In 
the preparation and variety of vegetables the French 
lead the world ; in the fabrication of sauces they are un- 
surpassed ; in the serving and arrangement of a dinner 
they leave little to be desired. 

But where can one go to dine in Paris ? Which restau- 
rants are the best, and what are the prices, and what is 
one to order ? The subject is delicate and even danger- 
ous, for although the critic has the right to declare a 
book or picture bad, pernicious, or abominable, and to 
pronounce its author to be unworthy of public atten- 
tion, he dare not be so outspoken about the wretchedest 
restaurant-keeper who is licensed to poison his custom- 
ers. I cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant 
in the Palais Royal is not to be frequented, or that such 
and such a gilded palace on the boulevard is an expen- 
sive delusion. I may, however, assure you that as 
prices run in Paris, it is impossible for a restaurateur 
to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat 
for less than one and a half francs, and you may there- 
fore conclude that the restaurateurs who, for a fixed 
price, varying from one and a quarter to three francs, 



THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 151 

offer you a complete dinner of five courses — soup, fish, 
meat, two desserts, and half a bottle of wine — are prob- 
ably in league with the honorable apothecaries, whose 
aid their customers must often need. 

To the traveller I say sly old prix fixe dinners alto- 
gether, or, if you will satisfy your curiosity, go to 
the Diner Europeen at the corner of rue Lepelletier 
and the boulevard (price five francs), or to the table 
d'hote dinners of those vast caravansaries, the Hotel du 
Louvre, the Grand Hotel, or the Hotel Continental, 
where you dine for six, seven, or eight francs, and see 
specimens of men, women and children of all the coun- 
tries of the world, and a profusion of linen, of silver 
plate, and luxurious surroundings which, for a time, 
will perhaps distract your attention from the insipidness 
of the roasts and the cheapness of the sauces. 

The Bouillon Duval is an establishment which gener- 
ally attracts the attention of the traveller. In every 
quarter of Paris you see one or two sober and respecta- 
ble-looking facades painted dark red and lettered sim- 
ply, " Etablissement Duval." The Duval restaurants 
are wonderfully organized, exceedingly cheap, and all 
the food sold in them is good and genuine ; these estab- 
lishments now serve an average of three million meals 
a year. The visitor may often find it convenient in his 
wanderings about Paris to lunch in one of these Duval 
restaurants, if he is out of the way of any other well- 
known restaurant. In all of them he will find the food 
of the same quality, and the prices the same. As he 
enters, the doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin, on 
which all that he eats and drinks will be checked off, 
and which bulletin, when duly paid and stamped, will 
serve him as a passport when he leaves the establish- 
ment. The prices at the Duvals are very low ; no dish 
costs more than one franc, and most of them only fifty 
or sixty centimes ; wine costs twenty centimes a carafon, 
which is equivalent to one glassful, or one franc a bot- 



152 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 

tie and upwards ; coffee and cognac costs forty cen- 
times. The Duval restaurant may be frequented with 
impunity, for nothing poisonous or deleterious is sold 
there ; the only disadvantage is that the portions being 
very small, a hungry man, in order to satisfy his appe- 
tite, will need so many portions, that his bill will mount 
up to as much as if he had lunched or dined in an estab- 
lishment of superior standing and comfort. The Bouil- 
lon Duval stands in the same relation to the regular 
restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the 
victoria ; as somebody has said, c'est V omnibus du ventre. 

At length we come to the restaurants proper, the res- 
taurants where one dines in the true sense of the term. 
It is commonly believed that the first-class restaurants 
in Paris are very dear. The Cafe Anglais, you will be 
told, charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two, and 
fifteen francs for a Rouen duck. Yes, but the beefsteak 
in question is a Chateaubriand, a kernel of delicate 
meat cut in the heart of the filet, — meat that is sold at 
two and a half francs a pound by the butcher — and the 
duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer's. Good 
provisions in Paris are dear, and when one considers 
the heavy expenses of the first-class restaurants, one 
cannot complain of their charges. 

As regards perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais 
heads the list. Its soups and sauces are exquisite ; a 
sole **a rOrly," '* Colbert," "normande," '*a la Join- 
ville," or " au vin blanc," may be eaten there in perfec- 
tion, and there is no restaurant in Paris where you can 
get a more delicate ** sauce diable " served to a grilled 
fowl. The two great tests of a French kitchen are 
soups and sauces; if these are. good, you may rest as- 
sured that everything else will be good. 

In the same category with the Cafe Anglais, both as 
regards quality of food and price, may be placed Du- 
rand's, opposite the Madeleine, and Adolphe and Pelle 
behind the Opera. Next come the Maison d'Or, the 



THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 158 

Cafe de la Paix, Bignon, and the Cafe de Paris, in the 
Avenue de I'Opera, Voisin in the rue Cambon, the old 
Vefour in the Palais Royal, the Pere Lathuile, in the 
Avenue de Clichy, and Fayot, opposite the Luxem- 
bourg Palace. At all these restaurants you can dine 
delicately and drink as good wines as are still to be had 
in France. Voisin and Foyot, especially, have choice 
Burgundies of incomparable fineness. 

The third category of restaurants includes the Cafe 
Riche, which years ago belonged to the first category ; 
Brebant's, now a general Bouillon, at the corner of 
Boulevard Montmartre ; Chevilliard, at the Rond-Point 
des Champs Elysees ; Laurent, and Ledoyen, in the 
Champs Elysees ; Champeaux, Place de la Bourse, 
where you dine in a perpetual winter garden ; Edouard, 
Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opera Comique ; Wepler, 
Place Clichy ; La Perouse, on the Quai des Grands Au- 
gustins ; Maire, at the corner of the Boulevard de Stras- 
bourg and the Boulevard St. Denis ; Marguery, next 
door to the Gymnase theatre ; Perroncel, rue du Havre, 
opposite the Gare Saint Lazare. In the Bois du Bou- 
logne the restaurants of Madrid, and of the Pavilion 
d'Armenonville are much frequented in the summer by 
gay and smart people : the prices are about the same as 
at the restaurants in town of the second categor^^ that 
is to say, two can dine there modestly with ordinary 
wine for a louis. 

I presume that the traveller comes to Paris to taste 
Parisian cooking, and therefore I shall not recommend 
him to try the pseudo-English cuisine of Weber or Lucas 
in the rue Royale and Place de la Madeleine, or the 
Russian restaurant in the rue Marivaux, or the Hunga- 
rian restaurant in the rue Rougemont. There remain 
then to be mentioned only a few special establishments, 
such as the Pied de Mouton near the Central Market, 
and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue Montorgueil. 
There are several restaurants in Paris which make a 



154 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 

Specialty of Bouillabaisse ; but I do not recommend that 
dish in Paris, for the simple reason that it is not the real 
article. In the Parisian Bouillabaisse several of the 
fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear 
transportation from the seaside. The traveller ^^^^r;;?^/ 
will prefer to wait until chance leads him to Marseilles, 
where the reigning chief of the great dynasty of Rou- 
bion will serve him this savoury dish on a balcony 
overlooking the blue Mediterranean. The cafe con- 
certs in the Champs Elysees are also much frequented 
by open air diners in the summer. The spectacle 
is curious and amusing, but the gourmet will flee the 
promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre 
cuisine. 

To give precise details as to price is difficult. One 
may say generally that at the Cafe Anglais two persons 
can dine delicately and well without stint as to good 
wines or choice of dishes, for about two louis (forty 
francs). On the other hand, the single man who is pre- 
pared to spend not less than seven francs on his dinner 
may enter boldly any restaurant in Paris, from the Cafe 
Anglais downward, and dine for that sum on soup, one 
dish, cheese, and half a bottle of wine. For ten or 
twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly al- 
most anywhere, except at the very tip-top houses, such 
as the Cafe Anglais, Durand's, and Adolphe and Pelle's. 
By way of practical hints I will subjoin a few observa- 
tions. 

Beware of hors d'oeuvres and baskets of fruit, for their 
influence on the total of your bill is alarming. If you 
are alone, resolutely refuse radishes and butter, or 
rather leave them untouched on the table before you ; 
if you have invited a friend to dinner, offer him ho7's 
d'oeuvres and hope that he will refuse ; if you are with a 
lady, ])oth hors d'a^iivrcs and the basket of fruit are obli- 
gatory. Eve offered fruit to Adam ; the least we sons 
of Adam can do is to return the politeness. 



THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 155 

The real gourmet eats by candle-light, because, as 
Nestor Roqneplan said, **rein n'est laid comme une 
sauce vue au soleil." 

When you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the 
place that is offered you. Choose your own table, and if 
it is breakfast-time secure a view through the window 
and a view of the whole restaurant, and if possible let 
the light strike on the table from your left hand. 

Preserve your freedom of will, but do not try to im- 
pose it. You are the master, it is true, and yet to a cer- 
tain extent you must obey. Consult, therefore, with 
the fnaitre dlwtel, consider what he recommends, and 
accept it if it be to your taste, for in the good restaur- 
ants there is no question of passing off stale food. The 
maitre dliotel is flattered when you ask his advice, and 
it is his business to be acquainted with the special and 
daily resources of the larder. At places like the Cafe 
Anglais the written menu mentions only a few very ordin- 
ary dishes, and you will inspire respect by not asking for 
the carte. At Bignon's do not trouble yourself about 
the carte ; ask advice of the portly Louis, and do not dis- 
dain his counsel. In cookery as in love much confidence 
is necessary. 

Always ask for the wine list, la carte des vins, even if 
you end by selecting vin ordinaire. The richest people 
in the land drink vin ordinaire with their dinner, and 
dilute it with simple water. The traveller, therefore, 
need not fear to do likewise even in the most gorgeous 
restaurants. Champagne is not much drunk by French 
gourmets, and such champagnes as the Paris restaurants 
keep is sweeter than our people generally like. To the 
connoisseur in champagne I would say, "Do not drink 
champagne in France, for the best criis are to be found 
in England and Russia." If you desire fine red or white 
wines you will find the nomenclature and the prices on 
the list ; choose your Beaune, Pomard, Volnay, Nuits, 
or Moulin a Vent, your Tavel, Tonnerre, or Chamber- 



156 THE RESTA URANTS OF PARIS. 

tin according to your taste and purse ; consult confi- 
dentially with the butler, and mind that you always 
address him as sommelier, and not gargon. The som- 
melier is inferior to the garfon in the hierarchy of table 
service, as 3^ou will see from his more humble and re- 
spectful demeanor. 

Ask for r addition, and not either la ca^^te or la note, 
which savours of provincialism. Verify 3^our change 
rapidly, and see that no pieces lurk on the plate beneath 
the bill. Be liberal towards the waiter, for it is the 
pourboire that secures you a smile when you arrive and 
a smile when you leave, a helping hand when you are 
struggling into your overcoat, obliging and ready ser- 
vice, and the appearance, nay, even the reality of friend- 
ship. In the three categories of restaurants mentioned 
above do not give the v/aiter less than fifty centimes, 
however modest your bill, and the more delicate and 
satisfactory your dinner, the more liberal let your pour- 
boire be, ranging from one franc up to five, calculated 
generally at the rate of five per cent, on the total of your 
bill. 




THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS. 



On the rue de Berri, a short street connecting the 
beautiful Champs Elysees with the splendid Boulevard 
Haussmann, stands a church edifice of which much is 
heard through the newspapers, but the history of which 
is not generally known. It is " The American Church 
in Paris," that being its formal title. With one excep- 
tion, it is the only American house of worship in Paris. 
The exception is its neighbor, the American Episcopal 
church, situated on the avenue de I'Alma, the thorough- 
fare connecting the Champs Elysees with Place de 
I'Alma. The former edifice is. however, alwa^^s known 
as *'The American Church." 

157 



158 THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS, 

It was founded early in the second empire, by the 
American and Foreign Christian Union of New York 
city. In 1857 the Union selected the Rev. Edward Nor- 
ris Kirk, D.D., of Boston, to commence the enterprise 
of securing funds for the purchase of the property, an 
undertaking which he courageously and successfully 
accomplished. In the same year the property was pur- 
chased by him and the American Church in Paris was 
established. 

Although American in name and built in response to 
a local demand for an American Church, all denomina- 
tions .contributed to its construction, all have aided in 
its support and it belongs alike to all, having from its 
inception been designed as a house of prayer for all 
people. Until five years ago it was known as the Amer- 
ican chapel. Dr. Beard, who was then serving it, 
changed chapel to church. 

Divine service is held every Sunday throughout the 
year, and on the third Sunday of the month a meeting 
is held in the interests of French evangelization. From 
October to June Sunday school and adult Bible classes 
are conducted, and the attendance is gratifying. A 
prayer meeting is held on Monday afternoons, and on 
Friday afternoons there is a meeting of the Ladies' 
Benevolent Association at some house designated on 
the previous Sunday. A cordial invitation is extended 
to all ladies sojourning in Paris to associate themselves 
with the work of this society. The church is, as before 
stated, an American church only in name, for all Eng- 
lish speaking people are welcome at the different ser- 
vices and are invited to associate themselves in the 
fellowship and work. 

To speak precisely, the American Church is a union 
church on the doctrinal basis of the Evangelical Alliance. 
It is supported by pew rentals, Sunday offerings and 
special donations. The pews contain six sittings and 
rent for S80 per annum. Certain churches in the United 



THE AMERICAX CHURCH IN PARIS, 159 

States support pews for the benefit of their travelHng 
members and many Americans at home as well as in 
England and Paris rent pews which bear their names. 

The American Church has _ a library of over one 
thousand volumes, which is open on Sundays for the 
free use of visitors. In many other ways the church 
welcomes the stranger. Special interest is felt by the 
church in the large number of students prosecuting their 
studies in Paris. Dr. Thurber extends a general invi- 
tation to his friends and to friends of the church, resi- 
dent in or visiting Paris, to call upon him socially at his 
home, 13 avenue McMahon, near the Arc de Triomphe. 
He sets apart Wednesday as a special reception day, 
afternoon and evening, and courteously requests that 
those who worship at the church introduce- themselves 
after service or send him their cards. 

The structure was designed by E. A. Salmon in the 
thirteenth century style of architecture and it is similar 
to the church of vSt. Germain des Pres, Paris. The 
fagade is of the light colored Caen stone so commonly 
used in Paris. The plot is fifty feet wide. Interiorly 
the aspect is clean and fresh, and the atmosphere home- 
like and inviting. The building was entirely renovated 
some twelve years ago, during the ministry of Dr. 
Hitchcock, and since then it has been maintained in 
excellent condition. 

Above the mortuary chapel hangs a picture repre- 
senting "Christ Blessing the Children." It is a gift 
from the Hon. Leland Stanford and Mrs. Stanford, of 
San Francisco, in memorial of their son, who died eight 
years ago. The mortuary chapel itself is the gift of 
Mrs. Stanford. The body of her son was deposited here 
for five weeks, during which time ]\Ir. and Mrs. Stanford 
came every day, always bringing freshly cut flowers. 
Above the vestry hangs another picture, the gift of Mr. 
and Mrs. J. J. White, also Americans^, presented on the 
occasion of their departure from Paris. 



MUSEE DU LOUVRE. 



The Louvre Palace is a most magnificent building, 
the largest picture gallery in Paris or in Europe. 

The offices of the Minister of Finance occupy the 
greater portion of the modern building, while the more 
ancient portion, since 1793, serves as a Museum. 

The Painting and Sculpture Galleries, which contain 
many of the master-pieces of all periods, are open daily 
(except Mondays) from nine to five in summer and from 
ten to four in winter (Sundays and public holidays, ten 
to four). 

Among the works of the early Italian Masters the most 
remarkable are those of the Florentine school. The 
Virgin and Angels, by Cimabue ; St. Frangois Receiving 
the Stigmata, by Giotto ; the Virgin and Child, and the 
Conflict between Cupid and Chastity, by Perugino, and 
others by Fra Angelico, Gozzoli, Fra Filippo Lippi and 
Andre Mantegna. 

The most interesting of Raphael's works are : La 
"Belle Jardiniere; Apollo and Marsyas ; The Holy 
Family ; St. Michael Conquering Satan, and his superb 
portrait of Bernard Castiglione, painted in 15 16. 

By Leonardo da Vinci : St. John the Baptist ; St. 
Anne ; la Belle Ferronniere, and his celebrated Joconde. 

By Titian : The Entombment ; Christ at Emmaus ; 
Christ Crowned with Thorns ; Frangois I. ; L'homme 
au gant ; Alphonso Davalos and his wife ; Alphonse de 
Ferrare and Laura de Dianti. 

By Corregio : Marriage of St. Catherine, and Jupiter 
and Antiope. 

100 



MUSEE DU LOU VRE. 161 

By Paul Veronese : The Meal at the House of Simon 
the Pharisee,and the Marriage of Cana. 

Among the paintings of the old Flemish school the 
most remarkable are : Jan van Eyck's Madonna revered 
by the Chancellor Rollin, and Memling's vSt. John the 
Baptist and St. Mary Magdalene. 

The Museum contains a considerable portion of 
Rubens's works, firstly the series of twenty-one allegori- 
cal paintings representing scenes from the life of Marie 
de Medicis, then Lot's Flight, the Adoration of the Wise 
Men, the Flight into Egypt, etc., the Portrait of Helene 
Fourment, his second wife, with two of his children, and 
the Flemish Fair. 

By Rubens' pupil, Van Dyck : Charles I. of England, 
a chef-d'oeuvre. 

Of the Dutch school there are several superb Rem- 
brandts : Angel of Tobias ; the Carpenter's Family ; 
the Good Samaritan ; Christ at Emmaus ; Woman Bath- 
ing, and several portraits by the same artist. 

By Fr. Hals : The Portrait of Descartes, and others. 
A few characteristic paintings by Dou, Metzu, Terburg, 
P. de Hooch, van Ostade, Jean Stern, Cuyp, Paul Potter, 
and some excellent landscapes of the same school b}^ 
Hobbema, van de Velde, Ruysdael, etc. 

Of the French school, which is largely represented : 
Charles IX. and that of his wife, Elisabeth of Austria. 
by Clouet, the first French artist worthy of note, who 
died about 1572. 

The Day of Judgment, by Jean Cousin, painter, sculp- 
tor, architect and mathematician. 

Of the seventeenth century, are paintings by Simon 
Vouet, Nicolas Poussin, Claude Gellee (called Le Lor- 
rain), Philippe de Champaigne, Eustache Lesueur, Ch. 
Lebrun, Jean Jouvenet, Mignard, Largilliere and his 
rival, Rigaud, who has left some excellent portraits of 
Louis XIV. and Bossuet. 

Arriving at the eighteenth century there are paintings 



162 MUS£e DU LO U VRE, 

by Watteau. Boucher, Vien, Fragonard, Chardin, Lan- 
cret, Greuze, etc. 

At the beginning of this century the French school 
was regenerated by David. His principal pupils, Giro- 
det-Trioson, Gerard, Gros and Guerin, followed his 
example, as did also his contemporaries, Lethiere and 
Prudhon. 

A new revolution was brought about by Gericault, 
who was the head of the school of romantic painting. 

Then followed Ingres, Delacroix, Horace Vernet, Paul 
Delaroche, Hippoh^te Flandrin. A number of landscape 
painters, Th. Rousseau, Huet, Jules Dupre, Corot, 
Daubigny, Troy on and then Diaz and Millet brought 
forth new vigor in the direct study of nature ; and here 
ends the development of the art as far as one can follow 
it in the galleries of the Louvre Palace. The most in- 
teresting Salle is the famous square salon which con- 
tains the greatest gems of the entire Museum and forms 
in itself a complete collection of incomparable master- 
pieces. 

The Sculpture Galleries are divided into three classes, 
Ancient, Renaissance and Modern, and they occupy the 
ground floor. 

The gallery of Ancient Sculpture (on the Seine side) 
is rich in productions of different periods. The most 
remarkable are : Apollo Belvedere, Diana a la Biche, 
Gnidian Venus (of which the original is in the Vatican), 
Medicean Venus, a Minerva, Fragment of the frieze of 
the Parthenon, the Nointel Tablets, Torso of Jtmo, the 
Three Graces with modern heads, the celebrated Venus 
de Milo, the colossal Melpomene, Venus of Aries, Apollo 
Sauroctonus, Pallas of Velletr}^ Venus Genetrix, the 
Borghese Gladiator, Diana of Gabii, Centaur, Diana 
Huntress and the Tiber recumbent. 

The Renaissance Collection is in the south wing of the 
inner court and on the east side. The most remarkable 
are the works of Jean Goujon, Germain Pilon and 



M USEE DU LOU VRE. 163 

Michael Angelo, particularly the Fettered Slaves, by the 
last named artist (151 3-1 516), destined for the Mausoleum 
of Pope Julius 11. 

The Collection of modern sculpture is on the west side 
of the ancient building and occupies six Salles bearing 
the names of the most celebrated French sculptors, from 
the time of the Renaissance to the middle of the present 
century, Puget, Coysevox, les Coustou, Houdon, Chau- 
det. Rude. The most recent additions are to be found 
in the last named Salle by Pradier and Dumont. 



MUSEE DU LUXEMBOURG. 



The Musee du Luxembourg is open daily, except Mon- 
days, from nine to five in Summer, and from ten to four 
in winter. Sunda3^s and holidays, ten to four. It con- 
tains a collection of works by living artists, in painting 
and sculpture. The most choice works are transferred 
to the Galleries of the Louvre ten years after the death 
of the artist, the others are assigned to provincial 
museums. 

Since 1886 the museum has occupied a new building in 
the Palace Gardens. 

Its fagade, decorated by Crauk, represents France 
recompensing Art. To the right, Orpheus Lulling Cer- 
berus to Sleep, by Peinte; to the left. Phaeton, by Houssin. 

In the vestibule a marble bust of Gericault,by Clere. 

In the Sculpture Gallery the Florentine Singer, by 
Paul Dubois ; Victor of the Cock Fight and Tarcissus, 
by Falguiere ; Love's Messenger and Dawn, by Dela- 
planche ; The Nest, by Croisy ; Joan of Arc, by Chapu ; 
Genius Guarding the Secret of the Tomb, by Saint- 
Marceaux ; Woman's Head, by Rodin ; Agar and Ismael, 
by Aizelin ; David, by Mercie ; Salammbo, by Idrac ; 
Immortality, by Longepied ; Fortune, by Franceschi ; 
Youth, by Carles, and Bailly, by Aube. 

Among the paintings most worthy of notice are : 

Salle I. Conquerors of Salamis, by Cormon ; St. Cuth- 
bert, a triptych, by Duez ; Henri III. and the Duke of 
Guise, by Comte ; Laghouat, by Guillaumet ; Venus, by 
the sculptor Mercie ; Woman's Head, by Ricard ; De- 
Hverauce of the Prisoners of Carcassonne, by J. P. 
Laurens ; St. Sebastien, by Ribot, and Fish, by Vollon. 

Salle II. The Birth of Venus, by Cabanel ; Haymak- 
ing, by Bastien Lepage; Job, by Leon Bonnat ; For- 
ward, by Roll ; The Poor P"'isherman, by Puvis de 

101 



M USEE D U L UXEMBO UR G . 165 

Chavannes ; The Meeting, by Marie ; The Cock-Fight, 
by Gerome, and The Excommunication of Robert the 
Pious, by J. P. Laurens. 

Salle III. Chaste Susanna, by Henner ; Fortune, by 
Jean Baudry ; Ismael, by Cazin ; View of Venice, by 
Ziem ; Rezonville, by Morot, and Oxen, by Rosa Bon- 
heur. To the left a large painting by Benjamin Con- 
stant, The Last Rebels. 

Salle IV. Gleaner, by Breton ; Truth, by J. Lefebvre ; 
The Last Days of Corinth, by Tony Robert Fleury ; 
Two Small Military Subjects, by A. de Neuville ; Na- 
poleon III. at Solferino, by Meissonier ; a Large Land- 
scape, by Pelouse, and a View of Bercy, by Guillemet. 

Salle V. In the Country, by Lerolle ; Morning and 
Evening, by Jules Dupre ; Maid at the Fountain, by 
Bonvin ; Cain, by Cormon ; P'loreal, by Collin ; The 
Reapers' Pay-day, by Lhermitte ; All Saints' Day, by 
Friant ; The Dream, by Detaille, and For the Country. 
by G. Bertrand. 

Salle VI. The Arrest, by Salmson ; The Samaritan, by 
Ribot ; The Burial, by Ulysse Butin ; The Death-bed of 
Gambetta, by Cazin, and The Bearers of 111 News, by 
Jules Lecomte-Dunouy. 

Salic VII. The Satyr, by Gerveix ; Visiting Day at the 
Hospital, by Jean Geoffrey ; Naiad, by Henner ; The 
Baptism, by Renard. 

Salle Ylll. Sketches by different masters and a few 
paintings, among them the Abandoned Child, by Louis 
Deschamps. 

Salle X. The P'armer's Wife, by Roll ; Divnne Service 
on the Sea-shore, by Edelfelt, and the Sacred Wafer, 
by Dagnan. 

Salle XI. Vierge Consolatrice, by Bouguereau ; Fan 
and Dagger, by Falguiere ; the Beach, by Madame 
Demont Breton ; Saint Sebastien, by Henner ; the Ferry- 
man's Daughter, by Adan ; Mazarin, by Vetter, and 
Souvenirs, by Chaplin. 



MUSEE DE CLUNY. 



The Musee de Cluny is open to the public from eleven 
to five in summer and eleven to four in winter (Mondays 
excepted). 

It contains a most varied collection of mediaeval ob- 
jects of art, upwards of eleven thousand, dating from 
the seventh to the eighteenth century. 

The Hotel de Cluny is in itself an historical monument 
of the highest interest, uniting in one building, almost in- 
tact, the three finest periods of French architectural art. 

On entering the court-yard by a gateway, which 
merits particular attention, is to be remarked the prin- 
cipal fagade bearing the escutcheons and devices of the 
Amboise family. 

Entrance to the Museum, at the end of the court-yard 
on the right. 

Salle I. Carved wood, sculptured marble and alabas- 
ter, see 705, dating from the end of the fifteenth century. 
The glass cases contain buckets, medals and a leaden 
case which contained the heart of Louis de Luxembourg. 

Salle IL The collection of shoes of all periods and 
countries and the stone chimney-piece dating from the 
sixteenth century. 

Salle III. Curiosities in lead and bronze, inscriptions 
from the crypt of St. Denis, a Triptych of the Memling 
School and a large buffet in carved wood, dating from 
the fifteenth century. 

Salle IV. Furniture of the sixteenth and seventeenth 
centuries, and a finely carved chimney-piece. To the 
left, the Andeoud Collection, specimens of Italian and 
Spanish art of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 

On descending two steps from Salle IV. is a triptych 
of the Florentine school, buffet in carved wood (768), 
Italian paintings and a piece of French tapestry (6370). 

To the right, a large room containing sculpture, among 
which are Jeanne de Laval, wife of King Rene, in white 

166 



MUS^E DE CLUNY, 167 

marble, curious statuettes of the fourteenth century, The 
Mourners, by PhiHppe le Hardi, taken from the tomb of 
the Dukes of Bourgogne and Berry; several Virgin Marys 
of the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, etc. 

To the left of the corridor, three rooms containing 
tapestries made in Flanders during the reign of Louis 
XII.; in the cases, ecclesiastical ornaments and vest- 
ments of the sixteenth century, head-dresses, belts, etc. 

A Venetian lady's garment in point lace of the six- 
teenth century, and the mantles and collarettes of the 
dignitaries of the order of Saint-Esprit created by Henri 
III. in 1579. Buffets, cabinets and other works of art in 
wood and marble. 

In a room to the right, gala carriages, sledges, Sedan 
chairs, etc. 

The corridor on the first floor is decorated with 
armor, and in the two rooms to the right is exposed a 
magnificent collection of Italian and Hispano-Moorish 
faience. See the superb bas-reliefs in enamel faience 
from Lucca della Robbia and those from Lindos after 
the style of the Persian workmanship. 

At the end of these two rooms two fine tapestries of 
the fifteenth century, in the cases ; works in glass and 
enamel, carved wooden panels and large plaques in 
Limoges enamel by Pierre Courteys. 

To the left of the corridor a room containing French and 
Dutch faience (25 authentic pieces, by Bernard Palissy). 
The three small rooms at the side contain various paint- 
ings of the Italian school, furniture of the sixteenth 
century, etc. 

In the suite of rooms following, a state bed of the 
time of Francis I., manuscripts of the thirteenth cen- 
tury, works in ivory, various statuettes, objects in 
precious metals, etc. , etc. 

In the Chapel, a large altar-piece of the fifteenth cen- 
tury, carved choir-stall and chairs. Access to the gar- 
den is obtained by a staircase at the end of the Chapel. 



HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 



The Hotel des Invalides was commenced in 1670 after 
the designs of Liberal Bruant and finished in 1674 by 
Mansard, who designed the dome. The interior of the 
dome was painted by Jouvelt. In the two high chapels 
on each side of the circular crypt are monuments of 
Vauban and Turenne ; in the circular crypt the tomb 
of Napoleon I. with bas reliefs in marble by Simart and 
the twelve colossal figures by Pradier, symbolic of the 
Emperor's principal victories. 

The entrance to the Musee d'Artillerie is on the right 
hand side of the court yard of honor. The western wing 
consists of two galleries, and contains both foot and cav- 
alry armor of great value ; to the right several historical 
pieces, those of the High Constable de Montmorency, of 
the Duke of Guise, of Sully de Turenne, etc. , a bas relief 
of the Chateau de Pierrefonds and the history of the 
French flag from the time of Charlemagne. The left 
room contains suites of armor worn by the French kings 
from the time of Frangois I. down to Louis XIV. ; caval- 
ry armor and a variety of arms used by the different 
French kings; the swords of Frangois I. Henri II., 
Charles IX., Henri IV., Louis XIV., Louis XVL, Charles 
X., a rifle of Napoleon I. and thirty-one foreign flags 
taken from the enemy under the first empire. At the 
end of this gallery are rooms containing the war dresses 
of Africa, America and Asia. 

On the opposite side of the court yard is an historical 
gallery of arms and weapons from the most remote 

168 



HOTEL DBS INVALIDES. 169 

ages down to the rifle invented in 1874, and a handsome 
collection of Oriental arms from Asia and Africa. On 
the floor above are specimens of war-dress dating from 
the most remote ages down to the year 1792. The room 
facing contains a collection of model artillery of every 
invention down to the year 1870. 

In the Cour de la Victoire a collection of cannon 
which were used by the French armies in different 
campaigns. The Chapel contains foreign flags taken 
during the different wars. 



PLACES OF INTEREST AND TIME FOR VISITING THEM. 



Places. 



Time for Visiting. 



Remarks. 



Arc de Triomphe All day. 

; BiBLiOTHEQUE Nationale. . . Tues. and Thurs., 

i *BoN Marche ; Daily, 8 to 8. 

i Bourse i Daily, 12 to 3. 

I Buttes-Chaumont I All day. 

i*CATACOMBS j Saturdays. 



ID to 4. 



All day. 
Daily, 12 to 4. 

All day. 

Week days, 10 to 4. 

Daily, 11 to 5. 

Wed. and Sat., i to 3. 

Daily. 

Daily, 12 to 4. 

Tuesday and Frid., 12 to 3. 

Frid., 12 to 3, Tues., Thur.s., 

Sats., 2 to 3. 
All day. 
All day. 

All day (Tuesdays and Fri- 
days, best days to visit). 

[♦Luxembourg (Palais du) i Daily, except Mond., 9 to 6. 



Cemetery Pere-Lachaise. . . 
*Chambre des Deputes 

COLONNE VeNd6mE 

" DE JuiLLET (Bastille) 
*EcoLE DES Beaux-Arts 

*EC0LE DE MedECINE 

* Gobelins (Tapestry Manufac- 
tory). 

Halles centr. (Market) 

*H6tel des Invalides 

*HOT. des Monnaies (Mint). . 
Hotel de Ville . . . , 1 

Jardin d'Acclimatation ... 
*Jardin du Luxembourg ... 
♦Jardin des Plantes 



Madeleine (Church) 

MusEE DES Arts et Metiers. 
♦Musee de Cluny 

MusEE DU Louvre 

*Notre-Dame (Cathedral) 



♦Palais de Justice 

' Palais-Royal 

♦Pantheon 



SAlNTE-CHAfELLE 

I Saint-Denis (Abbey). 

j Sewers (]fcgouts) 

^♦ToMi', of Napoleon .. 



Daily, after i o'clock. 

Sundays, Tues., Thurs- 
days, 10 to 4. 

Daily, Mondays excepted, 
I II to 5. 

Weekdays, Mond. except., 
9 to 5. 

Daily, 10 to 5. 

Daily, 12 to 4. 

All day. 

Daily, Mondays excepted, 

j 10 to 4. 

Daily, 11 to 5. 
Daily, 8.30 to 5.30. 



l^TouR Eiffel 

■ •Parc ue Montsouris 



Mondays, Tues., Thurs., 
I Fridays, 12 to 4. 
Daily. 
Daily. 



Sund. and holidays except. 
Sund. and holidays except. 

By special permission from 
the prefect de la Seine. 



Sundays, 12 to 4. 



By per. from the directors. 
By permission from the di- 
rector of works. 



Tickets to visit the conserva- 
tories, etc., may be had at 
the office of the administ. 

See galleries of paintings and 
sculptures, works of living 
artists. 

No visiting allowed during 
service. 

Other days apply to the ad- 
ministration from 12 to 3. 

Closed on public holidays 
falling in the week. 

Sundays, 10 to 4. 

Relics, ID to 5. The Towers, 

9 to >^ past 5. 
Sund. and holidays except. 

To visit Dome an order is 
necessary from the admin- 
istration des Beaux-Arts. 

Crypt from i to 4. No visit- 
ing during service. 

By permiss. from Director 
of works, Hotel de Ville. 

Winter months, 12 to 3. 



N. B. — Places marked ♦ are on the bank of the Seine. 

170 



PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 

Performances begin from 7.30 to 8.30 p.m. Most Theatres, etc., 
hold Matinees on Sundays. 



Theatres. 


Location. 


Booking 

office 
hours. 


Class of Entertain- 
ment. 


Opera 

Comedie-Fran9aise , . 

Opera-Comique 

Odeon 

GyMN'VSE 


Place de TOpera ". . 


10 to 5 

11 to 6 

10 to 7 

11 to 6 

II to 7 

II to 6 
From II a.m. 

II to 6 
II to 7 

10 to 7 

11 to 6 

II to 6 

II to 6 

II to 6.30 

11 to 6 

II to 6 

n to 5.30 

11 to 6 

11 to 9 

12 to 5 
II to 7 


Lyrical (Grand Opera). 

Comedy and Tragedy 
(ancient and modern). 

Lyrical (Operas and Com- 
ic Operas). 

Comedy, Tragedy, Dra 
ma. 

Modern C o m e d 3'^ and 
Drama. 

Vaudeville and Comedy. 

Operettes, Opera-Bouf- 
fes and Light Comedy. 

Vaudeville, Comedies. 
Tragedy and Drama. 
Operettes and Opera- 

Bouffes. 
Operettes and Opera- 

Bouffes. 
Fairy Scenes and Ballet. 
Operettes and Burlesques 
Operettes and Opera- 

Bouffes. 
Operettes and Opera- 

Boufifes. 
Melodrama. 
Comedy and Drama. 
Light Comedy. 
Operettes and Opera- 

Bouffes. 
Comedy. 
Ballets, Pantomimes, 

Operettes. 


Place du Theatre - Fran- 

9ais. 
Place du Chatelet 

Place de I'Odeon 

Bd. de Bonne-Nouvelle . . 

Rue de la Chauss.-d'Antin, 
Boulevard Montmartre. . . 

N. W. Corner of the Pa 

lais-Royal 

Boulevard Saint-Martin.. 
Passage Choiseul ... 

Boulevard Saint-Martin.. 

Place du Chatelet 

Square des Arts et Metiers. 
Boulevard des Italiens . . . 

Rue de Bondy 

Boulevard Saint Martin. . 

Rue de Malte 

Boulevard .St- Germain .. . 
Boulevard de Strasbourg. 

Boulevard du Temple. . . . 


Vaudeville 


Varietes 


Palais-Royal 

Porte St-Martin . . . 
Bouffes-Parisiens . . 

Renaissance 

Chatelet 

Gaite 

Nouveautes 

FoLiES Dramatiques. 

Ambigu 

Chateau-d'Eau 

Cluny 

Meni;s-Plaisiks 

Dejazet 


6den-The.a.tre 


Rue Boudreau 






Concerts and 
Cafes-chantants. 


Location. 


Date and 
Time. 


Remarks. 


Cong. Populaire.s 

CoNc. Lamoireux... 
Concerts Colonne .. 

Ambassadeurs 

Alcazar d'^^te 

L'Horloge 


Cirque d'Hiver 

Chatelet-Theatre 


Sunday. 
Sunday. 


During Winter Months. 
During Winter Months. 
During Winter Months. 
During Summer Months. 
During .Summer Months. 
During .Summer Months. 
During Winter Months. 
All the Year. 


Champs-Elysees 

Champs-Elysees 

Champs-Elysees 

Bd. de .Strasbourg 

Bd. de Strasbourg 


Daily p.m. 
Daily p.m. 
Daily p.m. 
Daily p.m. 
Daily p.m. 


Eldorado 

Scala 



171 



Circuses and 
Varieties. 



Location. 



Date and j 
Time. . 



Remarks. 



Hippodrome | Avenue de TAlma | Daily. |From March to November 

Cirque d'I^^tk 'Champs-Elysees I Daily p.m. ;From April to October. 

.Cirque d'Hiver |Bd. des Filles du Calvaire. Daily p.m. From November to May, 

;NouvEAU Cirque . . . Rue SaintrHonore Daily p.m. ~ - • 

Cirque Fernando. .. Rd. Rochechouart i Daily p.m. 

Folies-Bergere ..... Rue Richer i Daily p.m. 



From October to May. 
During Winter Months. I 
Variety Entertainments. | 



CABS. 



On hiring a cab, ask the Driver for his number [Nutnero). 
of complaint or inquiry. 



His ticket will serve in case 



Maximum Tariff within Paris. 



per 
hour. 



Cabs. 



per 
hour. 



F. C:. F. C. F. C. F. C. 

To seat 2 persons. I 502 252 002 50 
" *■' 4 and 5 ! 

persons with or 

without gallery I 

top |2 002 502 50' 2 75 

Landaus to seat i ; 

4 or 6 persons. ,2 50 3 00 3 003 50 



[ Beyond the 
fortificat. 



for hours. 



By day. 



Tariff per kil. for all Cabs 
provided with a distance 
controller. 



within PARIS. 



F. C. 
2 50 



2 75 

3 00 



Cabs. 



To .seat 2 persons. 

u i; ^ u^_ 

Landaus to seat 
4 or 6 persons 



By day. 


Night.; 


'.5 


ft 


Extra. 


F. C. 


F. C. 


F. C. 


75 

1 od 


25 
30 


Y 50 


' 25 


40 



Day. In summer ironi 6 a. m. Winter from 7 a. m. to 12.30 a. m. 
Night. In " " 12.30 a.m. ' 12.30 a. m. to 7 a, m. 



The charge in case of a cab for 2 or 4 persons returning empty from beyond the fortifica- 
tions is of I franc, and of a cab for 6 persons, 2 francs. 

Luggage, — One parcel, 25 c. ; two parcels. 50 c. : three or more, 75 c. 

No charge for small parcels taken inside the cab. 

It is customary to give a small gratuity ox ^ourboire of a few sous to the driver. 

When hiring by time the first hour must be paid in full, after which the time may be cal- 
t.ulated by fraction. 

It is advisaljle when taking a cab by the hour to mention the time to the driver. 

Should there be any cause for complaint, apply to the guardian stationed at every cab- 
stand or to a policeman. 

Any article forgotten in a cab should be claimed at the Prefecture de Police (Bureau des 
objets trouv^s) 2, quai du March^-Neuf, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 

172 



FRENCH COINS AND THEIR UNITED STATES VALUE. 



French. 


United States. 


1 French. 




'United 


States.! 


F— .;,p-. 


Sous. 


Dollars. 


Cents. 


Francs. 


Cen- 
times. 


Sous. 


1 Dollars. 


Cents. 


•' 5 . 

25 5 
50 10 
75 IS 

1 TOO 20 

2 " 40 

5 : " 1 '°° 


I 


1 
5 

10 
15 
20 
40 


10 
20 

50 

100 

500 

1,000 

5,000 


!! 




! 2 

i 10 

j 20 

100 

! 200 
i 1,000 





The Bank of France issues notes of 50, 100, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 francs. 

Gold pieces are of the value of 5, 10, 20, 40, 50, and 100 francs. 

Silver pieces are of the value of 20 c, 50 c, i fr., 2 fr.. and 5 francs. 

Bronze pieces are of the value of i. 2, 5, and 10 centime^. 

Minor values are often quoted in sous instead of centimes ; the price of an article, for in- 
stance, is said to be of i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 20. 40, or even too sous^ instead of 5, 10, 15, 20, 25. 
30, 50 centimes, i f r . 2 fr., and 5 fr., respectively. 

COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH MEASURES. 



Metres. 


Yards. 


Inches. 


Metres. 


Yards. 


Inches. 


Metres. 


Yards. 


Inches. 

i 


I 


I 


3H 


12 


13 


4 ' 


23 


24 


3^ ! 


2 


2 


6J^ 


! 13 


14 


7 


24 


26 


8 


.^ 


3 


10 


14 


15 


11 


; -25 


27 


13 


4 


4 


13 


15 


16 


15 


26 


28 


15 


.•> 


5 


17 


16 


17 


18 


27 


29 


19 


6 


6 


20 


17 


18 


21 


28 


30 


22 


7 


7 


23 


18 


19 


24 


29 


31 


26 


8 


8 


27 


19 


20 


28 


1 30 


32 


29 


9 


9 


30 


20 


21 


31 


40 


43 


27 


10 


10 


34 


21 


22 


35 


so 


54 


25 


11 


12 


I 


22 


24 


' 1 


; ,00 


109 


14 ' 



Measures. — The unit employed for all measures is the metre, which is subdivided into 
centimetres and millimetres ; the metre is equivalent to i yard -^M inches. 



COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH DISTANCES. 



Kilomet. 


Miles. 


Yards. 


Kilomet. 

1 


MfLES. 


Yards. 


Kilomet. 


Miles. 


Yards. 


T 





1090 


1 

72 


7 


760 


50 


30 


17C0 


; 2 


I 


420 


13 


8 


90 


60 


37 


280 


3 


I 


1510 


14 


8 


T180 


70 


43 


620 


4 


2 


840 


i '5 


9 


510 


80 


V) 


960 


5 


3 


170 


' t6 


9 


1600 


90 


55 


1300 


6 


3 


1260 


! 17 


10 


930 1 


100 


61 


1640 


7 - 


4 


590 


1 18 


II 


260 1 


200 


123 


1520 


8 


4 


16S0 


1 ^9 


II 


13:^0 I 


300 


185 


1400 


9 


5 


lOIO 


i 20 


12 


680 


400 


247 


1280 


10 


6 


340 


1 30 


18 


1020 


500 


309 


1160 


1 1 


^ 


1430 


40 


24 


1360 j 


1000 


619 


1560 



Distances. — i kilometre is equal to 1,000 metres. 

173 



AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. 
Hours ii a.m. to 2 p.m. 

United States Ambassador, 35 Av. Heche. 

United States Consul, 36 Av. de I'Opera. 

Passports may be had from the American Ambassa- 
dor ; although not necessary in France, they are often 
useful in case of admittance to public buildings or should 
one's identity be required. 



AMERICAN BANKERS. 
Hours 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Drexel Harjes & Co., 31 Boulevard Haussmann. 

Hottinguer & Co. (agents for Brown Bros., New York), 
38 Rue de Provence. 

Munroe & Co., 7 Rue Scribe. 

Rothschild Freres, 21 Rue Laffitte. 

Seligman Freres & Co. , 32 bis. Boulevard Haussmann. 

Anglo American Bank, cor. of Rue Meyerbeer and 
Chaussee d'Antin. 

RELIGIOUS SERVICES. 

American Church, 21 Rue de Berri (Champs-Elysees), 
II A.M. 

American Episcopal Church, 19 Avenue de TAlma, 
II A.M. 

English Church, 5 Rue d'Aguesseau (60 Faubourg 
Saint-Honore), 11 A.M., 3:30 and 8 P.M. 

Christ Church, 49 Boulevard Bineau, Neuilly, 10:30 
A.M. and 4 P.M. 

Church of England, 5 Rue de Bassins (near the Arc 
de Triomphe). 

Eglise de I'Etoile, 6 Avenue de la Grande-Armee, 10 
A.M. and 4 P.M. 

English Congregational Chapel, 23 Rue Royale, 11:15 
A.M. and 7:30 P.M. 

Church of Scotland. 17 Rue Bayard (Champs-Elysees). 

Wesleyan Methodist Church, 4 Rue Roquepine (near 
the Madeleine) 11 A.M. and 7:30 P.M. 

English Roman Catholic Church, 50 Avenue Hoche. 

174 



VERSAILLES. 



Versailles is situated about fourteen miles S. W. of 
Paris. 

Trains run from the gare Saint-Lazare on the right 
bank of the Seine and from the gare Montparnasse on 
the left bank — every hour — from thirty-five to fifty 
minutes' ride. 

Tramways run every hour from the Quai du Louvre 
(Paris) to the square in front of the palace (Versailles) 
— one hour and thirty minutes* ride. The Palace is 
within easy walking distance of the railway stations, 
and is open every day (Monday excepted) from ten to 
five in summer and from eleven to four in winter. 

The Palace of Versailles, as seen from the court 
yard, presents a less imposing aspect than from the 
garden side, where the fagade measures one thousand 
three hundred and sixty feet. 

The most interesting points of interest in the interior 
are : 

The Historical Museum, the first gallery of which, 
consisting of eleven rooms, contains a most valuable 
collection of paintings illustrative of the principal events 
in the history of France, dating from Clovis to the reign 
of Louis XVL 

Salle des Croisades. — The walls and ceilings of which 
are adorned with paintings, armorial bearings, etc., 
relating to the crusades. 

The Sculpture gallery and the salle de Constantine. 

In the second gallery, consisting of ten rooms on the 
first floor, are to be seen paintings descriptive of his- 
torical events from 1797 to 1835. 

175 



176 VERSAILLES. 

Salon d'Hercule, salle des Etats Generaux and Salon 
de la Guerre. 

The Galerie des Glaces.— From its windows may be 
had a splendid view of the park. 

Salle du Conseil and Salon de la Paix. 

The apartments of Louis XIV. and the Salle de 
rCEil-de-Boeuf. 

The rich and highly decorated Appartements de la 
Reine contain David's painting of the coronation of 
Napoleon and the marble statue by Vela (last moments 
of Napoleon). 

Galerie de VEmpire and the Grande Galerie des 
Batailles. 

The gardens behind the palace, which were laid out 
by A. Le Notre, the most celebrated landscape gardener 
of his time, are exceedingly beautiful. They possess 
probably the most splendid fountains to be found any- 
where, the working of which is estimated at an aggre- 
gate cost of ten thousand francs each time they play. 

The Grand Trianon, fifteen minutes walk from the 
terrace of the palace, was built by Louis XIV. for 
Madame de Maintenon. See the State carriages ex- 
hibited in a building a little to the right. 

The Petit Trianon, built during the reign of Louis 
XV., was the favorite resort of Marie Antoinette, who 
constructed a model Swiss village in the adjoining 
gardens. 

The Grand and Petit Trianon close at four P.M. 



EN PASSANT. 



It is always the best plan to drink the wines of the 
country through which you are travelling. On the 
Rhine, drink Rhine wines ; on the Mosel, take wines 
named after that river. If you persist in having French 
wine in Italy you will have to pay well for it ; Italy 
charges heavy duty on all wines brought across her 
borders. 

At railway stations in the States, when trains are 
about to start, conductors call out, "All aboard;" in 
Italy you hear ** Pronti ; " in France '* En voiture ; " in 
England, the more polite, '* Take your seats, please." 

Everybody in Paris who passes a house where a 
funeral is being conducted raises his hat, even peddlers 
and beggars ; so does every driver or coachman who 
passes in the roadway. It is a mark of respect for the 
dead and of sympathy for those who mourn. Women 
cross themselves. The same custom is observed if a 
funeral cortege passes you in the street. 

Do not call on lawyers at their offices, nor on any- 
body socially, in Paris, between the hours of twelve and 
tv/o ; everybody at that time is taking what we should 
call our luncheon, what they call their breakfast, or de- 
jeuner a la fourchette. They take it easy about noon- 
time in Paris, but they begin business at a much earlier 
hour than Londoners do. 

In London and New York omnibuses the charge is 
the same whether you ride outside or inside. In Edin- 
burgh you pay less for an outside seat. In Paris, omni- 
bus fare inside is thirty centimes ; on top or on the rear 
platform it is only twenty centimes. Women often 
stand on the platform the whole distance. 



178 EN PASSANT. 

There are always some elegant looking voitures stand- 
ing in rue Scribe and about the Opera, in Paris. They 
are so handsome, the horses so sleek, the coachmen are 
so well dressed, the whole turnout so finely equipped 
that many people take them for private vehicles. They 
are for hire, all the same, but do not be inveigled into 
entering one with the idea that the fare is the same as 
for the ordinary or cheaper looking victoria, which 
may be had for two francs an hour. The law allows 
cabmen to charge higher when they are called from a 
stand than if hailed or "picked up " on the street. And 
you need not be surprised if one of these expensively 
gotten-up cockers charges you at the rate of five francs 
an hour. But there is speed in the horse, there is com- 
fort on the back seat of the carriage, and the whole 
turnout makes a rather stylish and private looking 
affair for an afternoon drive in the Bois. A dollar an 
hour for such a vehicle does not seem exorbitant to a 
New Yorker. 

Ask a gendarme in Paris to direct you to a certain 
location, and if he does not know he will pull out of his 
pocket a miniature street directory and give you the 
desired information, 



TIPS AND DRINKS. 



Talk about ''tips ; " at all drinking places of any pre- 
tension in Paris you must fee the man who brings you a 
glass of absinthe or lemonade. In the sultry days of 
last August I was a frequent applicant for seltzer-lemo- 
nade at "The Bodega," on the corner of rue de Rivoli 
and rue Castiglione, under the Hotel Continental, and I 
obtained some information from one of the waiters. 
Their wages are very small and the living expenses of 
a single man are from four to seven francs a day. 
They depend entirely on fees. The Bodega waiters in 



EN PASSANT. 179 

Paris don't care about their own countrymen for cus- 
tomers ; they like Americans better than people of any 
other nationality. Where a Frenchman will give a sou, 
an Englishman two sous, an American will freely hand 
out half a franc, or a franc, if he is treating a party of 
three or four. 

At many places of public entertainment in Paris, at 
the Cafe de la Paix and at a.place of different character, 
the Moulin Rouge, for example, they have a system 
which makes it impossible for waiters to overcharge 
you as do waiters in a few restaurants in Regent street 
and the lower Strand. In these Paris drinking places, 
upon the porcelain saucer which holds your glass, is 
printed (burnt in colors) the price of your order. This 
method makes you independent of the waiter's tricks. 
You know exactly how much to pay him. 

In pleasant weather you do not enter a Paris cafe for 
liquid refreshment, day or night ; all Paris is out of 
doors. Thousands of people sit in front of the cafes 
and sip their lager or coffee, small iron tables and 
chairs being supplied for the purpose. A stranger may 
express surprise at the high price charged for a glass of 
bock, half a franc. There is a reason for the high 
rate. The proprietor or lessee of the cafe has to pay 
for the privilege of occupying space on the sidewalk. 
Cafe Brebant, in Boulevard Poissoniere, is taxed by the 
city five thousand francs ; Cafe de la Paix, on the Grand 
Hotel block, pays twenty thousand francs for this 
privilege. 

RESTAURANT PRICES. 



That clever magazinist, Theodore Child, whose un- 
timely death all readers deplore, probably knew more 
about Paris life than any other American. In discuss- 
ing the restaurants of Paris, he wrote : "As regards 



180 • EN PASSANT. 

perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais heads the list. " 
This, without doubt, was true when Mr. Child wrote it 
many years ago, but the Cafe Anglais lives now on its 
old laurels. Its glory has departed. Its reputation has 
gone down, while its prices remain up. 

I tried the Cafe Anglais last summer for a modest 
breakfast, and this was my bill : 

Small lamb chop and fried potatoes, - fr. 2.00 

Cup of coffee, - - - - 1.50 

Bread, - - - - - .50 

Butter, - - - - - .50 

New York Herald. - - - .15 

Fee to waiter, - - - - . 50 



frs. 5.15 

Here was over one dollar, or, if you deduct the waiter's 
fee, about one dollar, for a not very elaborate meal. I 
include the charge for newspaper because at most New 
York restaurants you can consult a daily newspaper, 
which is supplied free by the proprietor. The charge 
for a cup of coffee (thirty cents American money) I 
regard as quite high, considering that there is a separate 
charge for bread and a separate charge for butter. 

With a chop, potatoes and cup of coffee, for which in 
the States you would have to pay seventy cents, there 
would be no charge for bread, no charge for butter. 
The Cafe Riche, in Boulevard des Italiens, opposite 
Cafe Anglais, is also celebrated. It is a much larger 
place than the Cafe Anglais, not so quiet, select or 
stylish, but the prices are lower. The Cafe de la Paix, 
on the Avenue de I'Opera, is another expensive res- 
taurant. 

Indeed, I long since arrived at the conclusion that the 
restaurants of London and Paris are dearer than our 
own restaurants. In Paris you don't get a good cup of 
tea ; in London you seldom get a good cup of coffee. 



BY SEA TO ITALY. 



Americans, in planning a winter European trip, who 
include Italy in their itinerary, will, of course, either go 
or return by one of the large and well-appointed vessels 
of the North German Lloyd line. vSo will many who 
have no desire to visit Italy, but are bound for Switzer- 
land, for it is the most direct and a most interesting way 
of reaching the latter country ; via Genoa, then by rail 
or through the Italian lakes to Lucerne or Geneva. 

The Anchor line, three years ago, made a bid for this 
Mediterranean trade, but they went the wrong way about 
it : they put on their small ships, which did not become 
popular for this service, and the company soon retired 
from the field. 

The North German Lloyd people, undaunted by this 
failure, put into the service such vessels as The Fuerst 
Bismarck, the Fulda and the Werra, each over five thous- 
and tons gross tonnage, and success from the start 
crowned their efforts. Three of their steamers make 
this trip now\ winter and summer, and they go full, as a 
rule. 

The voyage to Europe this way is far more interesting 
than the ordinary route across the Atlantic. It is much 
longer, over four thousand miles, lasting eleven days. 
This is an advantage to those who go for health and 
pleasure, and there is a feeling of safety about it, as I 
will explain presently. But the voyage does not seem 
anything like so long as eleven days ; it is so varied and 
broken. You are only out of sight of land for the first 
four or five days. 

Before proceeding further let me offer a piece of ad- 
vice to those who make this voyage for the first time. 

181 



182 BY SEA TO ITALY. 

Even in midwinter it is comparatively warm, but in the 
summer months summer clothing is indispensable. Dur- 
ing the whole voyage, neither in day time nor at night, 
did I find even a light spring overcoat necessary, and I was 
on deck all day and every evening until bed time. But 
here are a few ''figures," which, it is said, '* do not lie." 
The thermometer in my state-room, during the whole 
voyage between New York and Genoa, never marked 
lower than seventy-two degrees, and this with the port, 
door and upper ventilator wide open. The same instru- 
ment, in the open air, on deck, as late as nine P. M. 
occasionally marked seventy-eight degrees. 

Of course it is well to be provided with rugs and wraps 
in case of necessity, but on this voyage we only used 
rugs for a couple of days. Even before we entered the 
Mediterranean the officers of the ship changed their 
blue cloth uniforms for white linen suits, the chief- 
engineer accompanying his suit with a white cap and 
white canvas shoes. They are a fine, manly set of fel- 
lows, these German officers, and present a pleasing ap- 
pearance in their white suits. You would judge that they 
had had military training ; their walk and bearing are 
soldierly and they are minus the sailor step and swagger. 

All of the passengers who possessed light suits fol- 
lowed the example of the officers, some of the men 
leaving off their waistcoats and the women appearing 
in white mull or thin linen blouses. 

On the iif th day out from New York you pass through 
the Azores, close enough to see the vineyards and the 
buildings on, one island and the white surf beating 
against the shores of two of the islands. 

On the morning of the eighth day you sight the coast 
of Portugal and a little later in the day you exchange 
signals with Cape St. Vincent, whence the name and 
position of your vessel are telegraphed to Gibraltar, and 
from there flashed over two continents. 

Cape St. Vincent is a very bold promontory with a 



BY SEA TO ITALY. 183 

powerful light and large lighthouse which is visible to 
the naked eye from the ship. Visible also is a large 
barracks or coast guard station, originally built as an 
observatory and long tenanted by monks who devoted 
their lives to the study of astronomy. A few miles to 
the east of this bold cape is Punta Sagris (Point Sagris.) 

The ninth day, having left the Atlantic ocean and 
entered the Mediterranean sea, brings you through the 
Straits of Gibraltar. It is a delightful experience and 
a never-to-be forgotten sight if you make the Straits 
in daylight, as we did, the narrowest point being only 
nine miles wide. 

The land on both sides of the Straits is rather moun- 
tainous. On the European side you have the rock of 
Gibraltar (the ancient " Calpe "), one thousand four hun- 
dred feet high, and on the African side, Ape's Hill, 
('* Abyla " the ancient), a mountain facing the rock and 
considerably higher. 

To be strictly accurate, the entrance to the Mediter- 
ranean is formed by Gibraltar and Ceuta, a Spanish 
colony in Africa of no importance except that it is the 
largest penal settlement of a series of five extending 
eastward along the African shore to almost opposite the 
French frontier. This circumstance will explain the 
jealous care with which France and Spain watch the 
course of events in the decrepid Moorish empire, the 
French being bent upon extending their Algerian fron- 
tier westward into Morocco and the Spaniards desiring 
an Extension in an opposite direction. 

Having passed the vS traits you " slow down " and 
presently drop anchor alongside the impregnable rock 
of Gibraltar, for which the British fought so hard and 
which they mean to retain. They use it only as a gar- 
rison, and at this time have about six thousand soldiers 
there under the command of Sir Lothian Nicholson, of 
the Royal Engineers, lately Inspector-General of Fortifi- 
cations for Great Britain. 



184 BY SEA TO ITALY. 

The ships of the line under notice make a stop at 
Gibraltar, both in going to and coming from Genoa, and 
this gives all cabin passengers an opportunity to go 
ashore for a few hours and explore the quaint old 
Spanish town, for being literally in Spain, to which 
nation it once belonged, it is still Spanish to all intents 
and purposes, with this important exception — England 
owns and holds it, this key to the Mediterranean; 
and the Union Jack waves over its great guns and 
forts. 

In one or two particulars Gibraltar brings to mind Key 
West, Florida, which, although belonging to the United 
States, was once Spanish territory, and it has been 
called by one writer ' ' A Cuban City in the United 
States." As in Key West, both the Spanish and the 
English languages are spoken ; one as much as the 
other. All public notices are printed in both languages, 
and almost everybody who lives at Gibraltar speaks 
both. The driver will be explaining certain things to 
you in very fair English and in the next breath he will 
swear at a fellow driver or a btcrro in very hard if not 
very bad Spanish. 

But here the similarity ends, for the cities are as dif- 
ferent naturally as it is possible for two places to be. 
Gibraltar, as we all know, rises from the sea to great 
heights, and is surrounded by hills ; Key West is a low, 
flat, level island ; Gibraltar is hard and rocky ; Key 
West is soft and sandy. All the houses in Gibraltar are 
built of stone and will stand for ages ; in Key West they 
are wooden shanties which a very strong gust of wind 
might blow away. The streets of Key West are unpaved 
and dirty : the streets of Gibraltar are hard and remark- 
al)ly clean. Key West, for a part of the year at least, 
is not considered healthy ; Gibraltar is a winter sana- 
torium. 

The climate of Gibraltar has some qualities like those 
of certain parts of Southern California. Snow is never 



BY SEA TO ITALY. 185 

seen in Gibraltar, and ice only when it is brought there. 
The climate is equable — temperature rarely over ninety ; 
never below forty. They have their winter, which is 
marked by rains ; on the other hand, months of summer 
pass without rain. They grow fruits in plenty — apples, 
oranges, lemons in great profusion, figs and the pome- 
granate. 

Gibraltar is an extraordinary fortress ; absolutely im- 
pregnable and in a position, incredible though it may 
appear, to sink any battle ship of the present day. In 
slang parlance Gibraltar is ' * up to date. " Three batteries 
have just been built on the summit of the rock, whence 
the artillery can drop shot and shell, vertically if neces- 
sary and directly on the deck of any ship which might 
have the temerity to attack the fort. 

The principal street of Gibraltar, Waterport street, 
has a decidedly cosmopolitan appearance. You see the 
costumes of many different nationalities, not only of 
Europe but the costumes of Africa — Spanish, English 
Arabs and Turks. This feature helps to make it pictu- 
resque in the extreme. They drink goats' milk, the 
animals being driven up to your door and milked into 
your own vessels. 

I remember remarking, a year or two ago, in an article 
entitled ** London on Wheels," that England was the 
only place I knew of where they drive to the left. I 
had not then been to Gibraltar, nor to Genoa or Flor- 
ence. That English peculiarity (not British, mind you) 
has skipped Scotland and Ireland, and planted itself in 
the three cities named. If on the road a carriage driver 
in Gibraltar meets a boy who is driving or riding on the 
wrong side of the road, both the boy and his patient 
burro will feel the thong of the irate driver's whip. 
You notice the same brutality here towards dumb 
animals which pains you in other parts of Spain, in 
Havana, yes, and in Paris. There is room in Gibraltar 
for a branch of the Royal Humane Society of London, or 



186 BY SEA TO ITALY, 

the society with the too long name which Henry Bergh 
founded in New York. 

Gibraltar is the only place I know of where increase 
of population is not desired — it is, indeed, not allowed. 
The population is stationary. For several years it has 
been twenty thousand, and it is the same to-day. You 
cannot enter the place for a temporary visit, even, with- 
out a permit, and if it is your desire to reside there per- 
manently, permission is not accorded. England keeps 
it simply for garrison purposes and does not invite immi- 
gration. 

There are a few acres just outside of the fortifications 
which belong neither to Spain nor England. The plot 
is neither public nor private property, but is kept as 
neutral ground to divide the border line and ' * keep the 
peace." 

Within a mile of Gibraltar is the Spanish town of 
Linea de la Concepcion, which, owing to the restrictions 
upon foreigners and strangers desiring to establish them- 
selves in Gibraltar, is rapidly increasing in population 
and importance. 

There are two theatres (so-called) in Gibraltar, but 
none in the Spanish town hard by. Linea makes up for 
this omission by having a bull-ring which accommodates 
twenty thousand spectators. The bull fights occur in 
summer only and on Sundays, of course. 

To come back to the vessel again, you next sight 
Cape de Gatt, near which is Almeria, which sends quanti- 
ties of its grapes to the States. Then come the Sierra 
Nevadas, and for scores of miles, for hours and h ours, 
you keep in view snow-capped mountains. 

On the tenth day out you pass the Balearic Islands, 
named Yviza, Majorca (the largest), and Minorca (the 
smallest). 

On the morning of the eleventh day, in the Riviera, 
you sail along the southern French coast, passing Mar- 
seilles, Nice, Monte Carlo, Cannes, Mentone, etc., getting 



BY SEA TO ITALY, 187 

a fairly distinct view from the ship of the churches, 
hotels and large buildings in those places. These cities 
are backed by the Maritime Alps, some of which are 
still snOw-covered, and this grand panorama, as viewed 
from the deck of a moving steamer, you will please 
imagine, as these notes, made en route, are mere "hurry- 
graphs," a phrase coined by N. P. Willis. The reader 
will fill in the picture for himself. In a hasty article, 
away from my desk and accustomed haunts, I can only 
sketch the merest outline of these impressive and beau- 
tiful scenes. 

At last you are under Italian skies. The German flag 
is raised to the peak of one mast, the Stars and Stripes 
are hoisted to the main truck of another, to the top of a 
third goes the flag of the North German Lloyd — blue 
key and anchor, on a white ground. The captain is on 
the bridge, with a marine glass in his hand. 

Long before you reach the bay of Genoa the white 
buildings of the city come in view, and these, backed by 
the hills and the fortresses on them form a bold and strik- 
ing picture. In entering the harbor you will not fail to 
notice six ironclads of the Italian navy. They look as 
if they might be able to give a good account of them- 
selves if a dispute occurred. 

The Fulda cannot boast of a twin screw, nor has she 
triple expansion engines, as some of the later ships of 
this line have, but there are electric lights and other 
modern improvements, and her staterooms are large and 
comfortable. Probably no steadier ship crosses the 
ocean. Even when there's a "a little sea on," and when 
other vessels might roll or pitch, there is very little 
motion to the Fulda. 

The Fulda's commander. Captain Thalenhorst, is tall. 
well formed, erect, with a decided military bearing, but 
every inch a sailor, and very much of a gentleman. 
Unlike many of the bluff English captains, he not only 
attends to the sailing of the ship but attends also to the 



188 BY SEA TO ITALY, 

wishes and comforts of the passengers, and eagerly 
watches for opportunities to entertain them, playing 
host as if they were his invited guests. 

On English ships the decks are washed at night or in 
the small hours of the morning, and for this reason, even 
if the sea be smooth, all stateroom ports are closed at 
night, making the air stuffy and close, producing white 
tongue and a headache in the morning. Captain Thalen- 
horst manages things differently. He w^ashes his decks 
in midda}^ and so the ports are only closed, unless such 
action is demanded by the weather, while the passen- 
gers are at lunch or dinner. And this illustrates his 
spirit of accommodation. He seems to have adopted 
the motto of the Leland family of hotel-keepers : ** We 
Study to Please/' 



THE BIRTHPLACE OF COLUMBUS. 



Letters written to or received by Shakespeare are in 
existence. I saw one last summer at Stratford-on-Avon. 
It reminded me of letters of Robert Burns which I had 
seen — in the Burns Monument in Edinburgh, because 
in both cases the letters touched on matters of money. 
In the Scotch poet's case he would be a borrower ; in 
that of the English poet he was begged to lend money. 
Burns was always poor ; Shakespeare, besides being a 
great poet, was practical, notwithstanding the state- 
ment of some philosophers that the two qualities are 
not found together. 

Letters in Shakespeare's hand are not in existence, so 
I was informed at Stratford, unless there be one, as I 
believe there is, at the British Museum. As to the por- 
traits of the bard, nothing satisfactorily definite is 
known as to their authenticity. Who knows where 
Homer first saw the light of day ? 

But I fancy that I hear the reader ask what has all 
this irrelevant prattle about Burns, Shakespeare and 
Homer to do with the title of the article? Not much, 
to be sure, only the question of the birthplace of 
Columbiis is as much unsettled as one of the preceding 
points, or as the year in which he was born. Genoa, 
among other Italian cities, claims to be the birthplace 
of Columbus, with proof to substantiate her claim, but 
there are also several houses in Genoa, each of which is 
said to be the house in which the renowned Christopher 
Columbus first saw the light of day. Landing at Genoa 
last July from the deck of the Fulda, I gave the matter 

189 




THE COLUMBUS HOUSE. 



190 



• THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US, 191 

as much time as I could afford in my brief tour of Italy. 
And then the temperature of an Italian July interfered 
with my discoveries concerning the discoverer. 

I may not, after all, have seen the house in which 
Columbus was born, although it was pointed out to me 
in different parts of the town, but I did find the house 
in which lived for many years Domenico Colombo, the 
father of Columbus, and the Great Admiral himself. 
It is numbered 37 in the Vico Dritto Ponticello. Imme- 
diately next door, one way, is numbered 35, a small 
grocery shop ; directly next door again, on the other 
side, is numbered 69, a little shoe shop. 

You may drive to '* the top of the street," as they say 
in London, but not through the street. It is not wide 
enough for a vehicle to pass through, unless that 
vehicle is a baby-carriage or donkey-cart, for the high- 
sounding Vico Dritto Ponticello, be it known, is only 
fifteen feet wide. 

Our driver was good enough to leave his horse and 
carriage at the said "top of the street," for which rest 
thus obtained the poor, abused animal was no doubt 
duly thankful. With the driver we stayed a long time 
in front of the house, examining it closely and copying 
the inscription, and when we returned to his steed the 
driver found himself under arrest for abandoning his 
horse, leaving him alone in the public highway. I used 
some silvery language in explaining to the policeman 
the reason for the delay and then we were allowed to 
proceed. And this brings to mind a saying of my dear 
mother's, when I used to remark that I could not make 
myself clearly understood in a foreign tongue : * ' My 
son, you have that in your pocket which speaks in all 
languages." 

The municipal policemen of Genoa are not much 
more than half the size and weight of members of the 
Broadway squad, but they look very neat and tidy in 
their black caps and black cloth suits, minus metal but- 



19S THE BIRTHPLACE OF COLUMBUS. 

tons. The coat is made single-breasted with skirts 
reaching below the calf of the leg. He had an eye for 
form, did the man who designed this uniform ; it gives 
a little more height to the little Italian. 

London and New York policemen carry clubs ; gen- 
darmes of Paris threaten with a small sword ; the 
municipal police of Genoa protect themselves with a 
stick or mace over four feet long. It is highly polished 
and resembles a Malacca cane. The long stick has a 
silver top upon which these words are engraved : * ' Re- 
spect the Law." 

But this is not getting to the house in the Vico Dritto 
Ponticello. You will have no difficulty in getting to it 
in Genoa if you find your way to the First Gate of the 
old city, to the City Prison or to the ancient church 
which Columbus built. These buildings are very near 
the spot. 

Nearly all of the surrounding houses are of six or 
seven stories ; No. 37 is five stories high and barely 
twelve feet wide. It has a very plain, undecorated 
front of stucco, which is in a fair state of preservation. 

The windows have Venetian blinds, painted green. 
The main entrance is through a double door of iron and 
there is a side door which was probably used by the 
servants of the family. On the door is an iron ring 
fouf inches long, which was evidently used for the 
double purpose of handle and knocker. About fifteen 
feet from the ground there is a white marble tablet, 
three feet by two feet, in which this inscription is cut 
in old-fashioned Roman characters : 

Nulla Domus Titulo Dignor 

Heic 

Paternis in Aedibus 

Christophorus Columbus 

Pueritiam 

Primamque Juventam Transegit. 



THE BIR TH PLACE OF COL UMB US. 193 

HOTEL DE (xENES, GENOA. 



Genoa, the most important town in Italy from a com- 
mercial point of view, has increased in importance, at 
least for Americans, now that the North German Lloyd 
line sends its fine steamers hither. It has good hotel 
accommodation. The largest, best appointed and most 
expensive house is The Isota, on the principal thorough- 
fare, convenient to many points of interest. But a very 
comfortable and modest house is the Hotel Genoa, or, 
to give its title in full, the Grand Hotel de Genes. It 
has fifty years' reputation. It is in the most central 
part of the city — in via Carlo P'elice, and fronts on a 
large square, Piazza Deferrari, whence you can take a 
car to the Campo Santo (the famous cemetery), the 
grand palaces, the noted churches, the Exposition 
grounds — to all the principal sights, in fact. The Teatro 
Carlo Felice is on one side of the .piazza, the post office 
is but a step away, on Via Roma, one of the principal 
shopping streets, which leads to the statue of Victor 
Emmanuel and the public gardens. 

The Hotel de Genes is solidly constructed; the stairs are 
of white marble and the floors of the bed rooms are laid 
in mosaic marble. They are warm enough and require 
nothing over them in summer time in the way of carpets. 
The house has electric lights and an elevator. The rates 
at Hotel de Genes are : breakfast, one and a half lire ; 
luncheon, four lire ; dinner, five lire ; rooms according 
to size and location, from five lire per day — a lire being 
equal to a franc, say twenty cents. Among the guests 
whose names have appeared on the books within the 
past few years are the Duchess of Talleyrand, the Earl 
of Carnarvon, the Princess of Battenberg, the Count 
and Countess Schouvaloff of Russia; De Struve, Russian 
Ambassador to the United States ; Baron Adolphe De 
Rothschild ; Prince HohenzoUeni and suite, and a host 
of other titled and distinguished people. 



194 THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US, 

The Hotel de Genes has accommodation for more than 
one hundred guests. Proprietors, Bonera Freres ; tele- 
graphic and cable address : " Bonera, Genes.'* 



HOTEL ROYAL DANIELI, VENICE. 



There is good hotel accommodation in Venice ; among 
the leading houses are the Grand Hotel, Hotel de 
L'Europe, Hotel Brittannia, and, to mention it last, 
though it is one of the first in size and appointments, 
the Hotel Royal Danieli. Its situation, directly on the 
border of the lagoon and the Grand Canal, affords fine 
water views and landscape pictures. 
- The house is centrally located. The Doge's Palace, 
with its wonderful pictures and frescoes, and the Piazza 
St. Marco (the great, square) are but a few hundred 
yards distant, while the steamboat wharf where you 
embark for the Lido, a pretty place one half hour dis- 
tant on the shores of the Adriatic, is almost at the front 
door of the hotel. Thirty minutes' sail to the Lido where 
you bathe in the open sea. 

Hotel Danieli was once a palace, the residence of Doge 
Dondalo. I am speaking of what was the case five 
hundred years ago ; just think of it — before Columbus 
was born. 

They knew how to build in those days, for the palatial 
structure shows no signs of wear. You might suppose 
it was erected only half a century ago. Of course, 
parts of it are occasionally "restored " and renovated. 

One of the salo?is is a gorgeous apartment in size and 
decoration, and would not discredit a palace of the 
present day. It is forty-one by nineteen feet, with a 
heavily decorated ceiling twenty-six feet high. The 
great doors of this noble apartment are set in heavy 
marble casings heavier and richer than the marble cas- 



THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 195 

ings which surround the doors and windows of the 
palace which A. T. Stewart built in New York, and 
which is now the home of the Manhattan Club. Above 
each door is a massive ducal crown, gold on a green 
ground, extending from the door casing to the ceiling. 
The sofas and chairs of the salon are unusually large, to 
be in keeping with the great apartment ; they are richly 
gilded and upholstered in green velvet. 

There are two lifts in the house, also a railway office. 
You can purchase your tickets and have your luggage 
registered before you leave — a convenience no other 
hotel in Venice offers. You and your luggage are taken 
to the railway station in a gondola into which you step 
from the door of the hotel. The Hotel Danieli accommo- 
dates three hundred guests. Single rooms from three 
to six francs ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, four 
francs ; table d'hote dinner, five francs, which does not 
include wine. Proprietors, Genovesi «& Campi. 



THE HOTELS OF LUCERNE, 
SWITZERLAND. 



There is probably a greater number of large and 
finely appointed hotels in Lucerne than in any other 
place of its size in either hemisphere. 

Lucerne, situated on "the lake of the four Cantons/" 
with the summits of Mount Pilatus and the Rigi within 
very easy reach by railway, is a great rendezvous and 
centre for tourists, several railway lines having their 
terminus here. Steamboats start from here for all 
points on the lake. 

In a few hours by rail, through the St. Gothard tun- 
nel, over, under and around the mountains, and along 
the edges of some wondrously beautiful Swiss and 
Italian lakes, you reach Milan, the views en route being 
sublimely grand. In another direction Paris is reached 
in less than twelve hours by day or night. 

For its size, again, it is probably more cosmopolitan 
than any other town in the world. All the residents 
speak German and French, and everybody in the public 
places knows enough of English to make himself or 
herself understood. I refer to shopkeepers, hotel- 
keepers, chambermaids, cabbies, etc. The flags of all 
nations are seen at different times on the rowboats 
hired by strangers who represent the different nation- 
alities. The German and French flags predominate ; next 
in number come the Union Jack and Stars and Stripes. 

The leading hotels of Lucerne proper are all clustered 
near each other, not far from the railway station, the 
steamboat landing and the Kursaal, or Music Hall. 

The Schweizerhof, accommodating six hundred 
guests, will compare in its appointments with the hotels 
at leading summer resorts elsewhere ; not with the 
Metropole at Brighton, England, nor with the *' States " 
at Saratoga, but it ranks in the first class. 

196 



HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLANI), 197 

The Lucernhof, which is next door to and connected 
with the Schweizerhof and under the same management, 
is also a large and well appointed hotise. By the way, in 
Miss Braddon's last work, " The Venetians," there is a 
reference to the Schweizerhof. In the Taiichnitz edi- 
tion, which does not, as a rule, find its way to the 
United States, appears this paragraph in Volume 2, p. 96 : 

"They loitered by the great Swiss lake until the 
October mists began to make Pilatus invisible. They 
lingered under Mr. Hauser's hospitable roof so long that 
the great St. Bernard lifted his head and howled an 
agonizing farewell when the carriage drove off to the 
station with Eve and her husband." 

Since the book was written and printed both the 
master and his faithful dog have passed away. But Mr. 
Hauser left two sons, and they seem to have inherited 
some of their father's popularity. At all events the 
Schweizerhof does a prosperous summer business. 
During the height of the season it is not only full, but 
its overflow frequently helps to fill other houses. 

The National is probably not so much talked of as the 
Schweizerhof. The latter is indeed the only hotel in 
Lticerne that is mentioned by guide-book Murray; it 
owes its prestige doubtless to its age and its association 
with the early history of Lucerne as a resort for tourists. 
But the National is not only not excelled by any hotel in 
Lucerne, btit is probably the finest hotel structure in 
Switzerland. It occupies a whole block, with its grand 
front overlooking the lake, down to the edge of which the 
grounds of the National graceftilly slope. The .structure 
is of stone, and its public rooms are magnificent. 

The Hotel de L 'Europe is a pleasant house about a 
mile from the business part of the town. It stands in 
its own well shaded grounds, on a main drive. 

A few steps from the National Hotel and the Kursaal 
is the Beati Rivage Hotel, not too long a walk from rail- 
way or steamboat and yet in a quiet and beautiful loca- 



198 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLA ND, 

tion, affording choice views of the lake and surrotinding 
mountains. The Beau Rivage was erected twenty-three 
years ago, but the house has since been greatly im- 
proved. New public rooms have been constructed, the 
plumbing is new and so is the furniture. 

The Beau Rivage, as before remarked, is in a quiet 
neighborhood, and moreover, it is a very select house, 
well suited for families for a protracted stay. If you want 
brass bands and high life it is easy to enjo}^ them for an 
hour or the whole evening. Step across to the National or 
to one of the other large hotels down the street, and you 
will soon be in the midst of a bustling and busy life. 

A feature with the National, the Beau Rivage and the 
Schweizerhof is that each of these three hotels has a 
library of several hundred choice volumes for the use of 
its guests. The books are uniformly bound and each one 
bears the name of the hotel on the cover, in gold letters. 

But the Beau Rivage has another feature which is 
altogether unique in hoteldom, so far as my experience 
goes. It has its own fish ponds — fish ponds in the house. 
The manager argues that trout only make a perfect dish 
when they are perfectly fresh, so he has a couple of 
trout tanks in the basement in which fresh water is 
flowing constantly and in which a good supply of trout 
and a few other kinds of fish are kept. 

There are two tanks, each about three feet wide by 
four feet long and three feet high. Beside them con- 
veniently stands a hand net. Does a guest order a dish 
of trout } The chefs assistant is quickly transformed 
into a disciple of Izaak Walton and, luck or no luck, he 
will very quickly " land " as many fish as may be re- 
quired. I have since learned that there is a hotel in 
Bale which also has its tanks and keeps its fish alive, 
ready to be caught. 

The manager of the Beau Rivage, Mr. Richert, has 
had hotel experience in London ; he was for ten years 
in a Nice hotel, and to quote a slang expression that was 



HO TELS OF L UCERNE. S WITZERLA ND, 199 

current in New York some years ago, he " knows how 
to keep a hotel." 

The rates at Lucerne hotels are not high. At the 
majority of the leading houses these figures rule • — 
Rooms, from three and a half francs ; breakfast, one 
and a half francs ; luncheon, three and a half francs ; 
table d'hote dinner, five francs, without wine. These 
figures, at the Beau Rivage, Schweizerhof and some 
other hotels, include lights and service ; at the National 
these items are charged for separately as " extras." 

The Beau Rivage is open from April to October, the 
National and Schweizerhof are open the entire year. 

In some of the Swiss hotels you not only place outside 
your door on retiring, your shoes, but your clothes also — 
those which you wish brushed. A hook is placed on the 
door-casing on which to hang your clothes. 

They will cheat you at the railway stations in Italy, if 
they can, and the officials on steamboats which ply the 
Swiss lakes will try to overcharge you if they discover 
that you are not familiar with the charges or with the 
current coins. If you are making much of a tour in 
countries whose language you do not understand, by 
far the best plan, is to piirchase tickets of Cook or Gaze. 
You pay these agents only the regular fares, and hold- 
ing their tickets saves you a deal of time, trouble and 
annoyance. In the stations of all the principal cities of 
Italy and Switzerland you will find a Cook agent in tmi- 
form, with the word " Cook" in large silver letters on 
his black cap. He will aid you in registering and hand- 
ling your baggage, he will secure for you the best seats 
in the train, and otherwise make himself useful — without 
a fee. His employer receives a commission from the 
railway companies. About travelling with Cook's par- 
ties I know nothing except from hearsay, but I have 
purchased and used Cook's tickets, and heartily recom- 
mend others to do so— those more particularly who are 
not linguists. But in any and every case you save an- 
noyance and confusion at the stations. 




THE DE SOTO. 

SAVANNAH, GEORGIA. 



The city of Savannah, with its balmy air, its far famed 
Bonaventure Cemetery, its pretty parks, broad streets 
and many natural attractions (acknowledged to be one 
of the most attractive Southern cities), was long avoided 
by many pleasure tourists, because it had no hotel 
worthy of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and 
doing a business of over one hundred and thirty millions 
of dollars annually. 

Savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world — 
New Orleans excepted. Savannah has deep water and 
good docks. Sometimes as many as thirty English ships 
are in this port at the same time. They take cotton di- 
rect to foreign ports. Savannah is easily approached 
from North and South : presently it is to have communi- 
cation with the west — direct from Kansas City. When 
these and other contemplated improvements are made, 
Savannah expects to experience an era of great pros- 
perity. It is predicted that the city will double its popu- 
lation in the next ten years. 

200 



SAVANNAH. GEORGIA. 201 

Anyone who donbts that Savannah is steadily moving 
forward in prosperity has only to take a glimpse at the 
tax returns made to the cit}^ treasurer for 1891, to ha\^ 
the doubt quickly dispelled. In 1890, the returns of 
personal property footed up $9,948,048, and in 1891 they 
were considerably over $10,000,000, the increase being 
about $500,000. The banks alone in '91 made returns of 
$506,000 in excess of 1890. This shows that there is a 
great demand for banking institutions. Real estate has 
increased $1,300,000. 

Such being the present condition and future prospects 
of Savannah, it was time that some movement were 
made for the better entertainment of visitors, so at last 
the citizens put their heads together and concluded that 
no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions, the 
climax of success is only capped by railway facilities and 
first class hotels. 

Mr. H. B. Plant, head of the Plant System, furnished 
the railway facilities, and now the citizens of Savannali 
have supplied the hotel. They formed a stock com- 
pany, subscribed a million of dollars and opened the De 
Soto, two years ago, which proved to be exteriorly one 
of the handsomest houses in this country, if not in the 
world, and interiorly one of the best appointed — in 
keeping with the American idea. 

Savannah never had a habit of going across the seas 
for hotel names. It boasts of no Victoria, no Bucking- 
ham, no Imperial, but it has a Screven, named after a 
prominent Georgia family ; a Pulaski, named for a mil- 
itary hero, and now a De Soto, in honor of the discov- 
erer of the Mississippi river. Savannah is nothing if 
not patriotic. It has a Monterey square, a Forsyth park, 
and among its monuments are the noble columns erected 
to perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes 
— Jasper, Green and Pulaski. 

The De Soto cost a round million of dollars. It occu- 
pies an entire block. 



202 SAVANNAH. GEORGIA, 

Within five minutes* walk of the house is Forsyth 
park, with its acres of forest trees, and plenty of japon- 
icas and roses in full bloom at this writing, January 26. 
In the centre of this park there is a handsome fountain, 
modeled after the grand fountain in the Place de la 
Concorde, Paris. It is a mistake and a pity to half hide 
it behind japonica trees and rose bushes, from six to 
eight feet high. 

It is very enjoyable to sit in any of Savannah's pretty 
parks these days, say between noon and four o'clock. 
There is no danger of taking nor of feeling cold. 
At night and in the early morn the air is cool (36 to 42 
degrees), but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy— any- 
where from 56 to 76 degrees. It is an old habit of mine 
to carry a thermometer in my satchel, so I am not de- 
pendent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay for my 
facts and figures concerning the temperature. Frost is 
rarely seen in Savannah, and they never get a sight of 
snow unless some of the "beautiful" article should 
remain on the car roofs of trains coming from the 
North. 

The De Soto can accommodate four hundred guests, 
and besides, the dining-room and the smaller '' early 
breakfast-room " on the main floor, there is a banquet- 
ing hall on the first floor in which two hundred guests 
can sit down comfortably. A novel feature for a hotel 
is a gymnasium, on the sixth floor, and above this, at the 
very summit, there is a large '* Solarium," fitted up with 
chairs, tables and lounges. Here you can sit, bask in 
the sun, and, as Walt Whitman says, ''loaf and invite 
your soul." In this elevated position you get a magnifi- 
cent view of Savannah and the surrounding country — as 
far east as the Tybee coast, twenty miles distant. 



P. vS. — This is called a cold winter in Savannah, yet at 
six A.M., Thursday, January 29, the thermometer marked 
sixty degrees. 



THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 



Time, eleven A.M., February i. — Your correspondent 
is seated at his bedroom window ; there are two large 
windows in the room, and both are wide open. The 
apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot ceil- 
ing ; it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature 
in it is seventy-two degrees. This is not said from 
hearsay, nor is the record taken from a hotel thermome- 
ter, which may be unreliable, but from a portable ther- 
mometer of my own. 

When the Place was Settled. — People ask, "How 
old is Thomasville : when was it first settled ? " The 
writer can answer this question because he had the good 
fortune to be presented to no less a personage than 
Mrs. M. A. Bower, a most charming woman to look at 
and to converse with, who is proud of her fifty-six years, 
but whom you would judge to be at least ten years 
younger. Mrs. Bower was the first white child born in 
Thomasville, and in the first real house erected in the 
place. It stood on the present site of the Mitchell 
House. Mrs. Bower is the daughter of Colonel and Mrs. 
Edward Remington who came here from Pawtuxet, R. 
I., in the year 1828. Set it down for a fact then that 
Thomasville is three score years old. 

Location. — Thomasville, the capital of Thomas 
county (this is not from a gazetteer, please believe), 
stands three hundred and thirty feet above sea level, 
being on the highest ground between Macon and the 
Gulf of Mexico, in the Uplands of Georgia. It is two 
hundred miles from the Atlantic, sixty miles from the 
Gulf of Mexico as the bird flies, twelve miles from the 

203 



204 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 

Florida State line, a thirty-three-mile drive from Talla- 
hassee, and is reached from Jacksonville at the South or 
from Savannah coming from the North in a few hours 
by way of Waycross or Jesup, two places not particu- 
larly attractive to the tourist but quite useful as w^ay 
stations, affording junctions for several lines of rail- 
road. 

Health and Pleasure. — Thomas ville was at one 
time simply a health resort : people with consumption 
or other lung or throat diseases came here for relief and 
they found it. They, the sickly people, still come to 
get well ; but beside being a health resort it is now also 
a place for pleasure. Fashion has set its seal on Thom- 
asville. New York and Boston are well represented 
among the visitors, but the West especially favors 
Thomasville, and St. Paul, for its size, sends more peo- 
ple probably than any other city. A number of St. 
Paul citizens have cottages here and have set up fine 
establishments. Ladies dress for the morning ride or 
drive ; they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for 
the evening dance. Ladies at the hotels exchange visits 
with the cottagers, also with the townspeople, the per- 
manent residents giving strangers a warm, Southern 
welcome. 

Features of the Town. — To-day Thomasville has 
churches of all denominations (including a Jewish place 
of worship), two hotels far superior to any between 
Baltimore and Jacksonville, unless exception be made 
of the new Oglethrope at Brunswick ; a number of 
smaller hotels, numerous boarding houses, two daily 
newspapers, several good private schools, a flourishing 
college for girls and one for the other sex, a railway di- 
rect to the town — and five thousand inhabitants. The 
boys' college is a branch of the State University and has 
at present two hundred and fifty pupils. The other in- 
stitution, called "Young's Female College," was en- 
dowed by a (reorgian, and the charge for tuition is so 



THOMASVILJ.K. GEORGIA. iW 

low as to be nominal, ten dollars per year to each pupil. 
So the religiously inclined have ample opportunity to 
worship at their particular shrine, and the educational 
advantages of Thomasville are good. 

Nature's Gifts. — The reputation of this place was 
gained by its dry and balmy atmosphere, its even tem- 
perature, its health-giving pine forests and by its free- 
dom from cold or sudden changes. The United States 
Signal Service report shows that the average winter 
temperature is about fifty-live degrees, and the average 
temperature last July, the hottest month here, was 
eighty-two degrees. While the winter days are warm 
the mornings and nights are pleasantly cool, and it never 
snows here. Once during the past fourteen years they 
did have a flurry of snow. It happened on a Sunday 
and the churches remained empty ; so interested were 
the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they ne- 
glected the church and all took to snowballing. You 
need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor wear, except, 
perhaps, for an evening drive, or for rainy days ; but an 
umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the 
sun is indispensable. I am speaking of needing such an 
article at the present time. February i. 

The Pinev Woods Oak. — To those coming from the 
North the sight of the trees in full leaf is as agreeable 
as it is strange. The pine, live-oak, hemlock and holly 
all have their branches thickly covered. There is a 
gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the Piney Woods 
Hotel whose spreading branches measure sixty feet 
across. There is still a larger one in the town, which 
people travel miles to see. It spreads ninety feet across. 
But beauty does not always consist in bigness. The 
Piney Woods oak is both beautiful and big, but its sym- 
metrical beauty is its main attraction. Is it too warm 
on the hotel porch? Are the .sun's rays too fierce? 
Cross over the road, fifty yards distant, and seek a com- 
fortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of 



206 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 

the pines, in what is popularly termed ** Yankee Para- 
dise," but known more correctly as Paradise Park. It 
includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives. There 
is no ice to make your step unsteady, but the needles of 
the pines render the paths rather slippery. 

When to Come. — You can pick violets in the open 
air and pluck in the fields a small bouquet of daisies at 
this writing, but to see Thomasville at its best, I am 
told that you most come a little later than this, when 
the grass is all green. You can then pluck wild roses 
to your heart's content. Then the pear orchards will be 
in full bloom, and the dogwood blossoms are a sight to 
behold. I have been here only three days and have 
seen no rain, but the soil is sandy and one can readily 
believe what enthusiasts say, that an hour or two after 
a long and heavy rain walking is again pleasant, the 
rain having percolated through the ground, leaving the 
surface perfectly dry, if not hard. And there is seem- 
ingly no end of lovely walks. You get out of the 
town in five minutes, and if you are bent on pedestrian 
exercise, and have an eye for beautiful scenes, turn your 
steps in any direction and you will make no mistake. 

What to Bring. — If the ladies of your party are 
equestriennes, by all means let them bring their riding 
habits with them : everybody rides. Driving, too, is 
largely indulged in, the roads being hard, smooth and 
unusually wide. They extend for miles and miles 
through the pine woods, and their picturesque beauty 
you will please imagine ; it is not easy to describe it 
without using more adjectives than I have at my com- 
mand en route. To sportsmen let me say, do not come 
without your dog and gun or you will never forget nor 
forgive the error. Wild turkeys abound, there are snipe 
in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice. You see 
them on the road while driving, and the crack of the 
rifle is heard almost constantly. Quail on toast is a 
regular dish at the hotels at least once a day. 



THOMASVILLK. GEORGIA. 207 

The Negro and his Works.— Without desiring to at- 
tack political problems, to raise dead issues or to discuss 
questions that have long since been answered, one can- 
not resist the temptation to obtain information on the 
result of the emancipation proclamation, for although it 
is over a quarter of a century old the subject yet has 
great interest for this country, and for other countries 
also, for that matter. Here is a statement of facts and 
figures in condensed, nutshell form upon which chapters 
and books might be written— the colored population of 
Georgia pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve 
millions of dollars, the realty being estimated at about 
one half its actual value, and their personal property is 
estimated at about six millions of dollars. There are in- 
stances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves 
to their former owners, some of the blacks still serving 
their white masters. Among the servants of Mrs. M. A. 
Bower, proprietor of the Piney Woods Hotel, are two 
who formerly served this same "master," one of them 
being the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel. 

The Hotels. — There is a standing joke about certain 
Southern cities where there are only two hotels, that, 
whichever one you select, you will wish that you had 
chosen the other. Although the hotels south of the line 
have greatly improved of late years, the old joke will 
still apply in certain towns and cities. Not so, however, 
at Thomasville. There are only two hotels here knovv^n 
to fame, and you will make no mistake if you select 
either. It is a matter of surprise to find two such hotels 
in such a comparatively small town. The Mitchell 
House and the Piney Woods Hotel (I take them alpha- 
betically) are both large, new, handsomely furnished 
and perfectly appointed houses, containing all the mod- 
ern improvements, and erected with strict regard for 
the laws of sanitation. The Mitchell House is an im- 
posing solid brick structure, four stories high, two hun- 
dred feet square, with a cultivated park of two acres 



308 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 

sweeping before its front piazza. This little park is re- 
served for the hotel guests and their friends. 

The Piney Woods Hotel is within gun-shot distance 
of the Mitchell House, on the same street, with a front 
measuring three hundred and fifty feet, the other side 
overlooking Paradise Park, of which I have already 
spoken. The Piney Woods stands, as it were, and as 
its name might indicate, on the very edge of the pine 
forests, and yet it is only a five minutes' walk from the 
post-office and a ten minutes' drive from the depot. 
The pamphlet issued by the proprietor tells you that 
"the Pine}^ Woods is modelled similar to the Grand 
Union Hotel, at Saratoga Springs, "but this is a mistake 
of the compiler of the work, and is no compliment at all 
to the house under consideration — which is far more 
pleasing to the eye, exteriorly, than the Grand Union 
at Saratoga. The Piney Woods is built after plans of J. 
A. Woods, a New York architect, who planned the new 
Grand Hotel /;/ the Catskill Mountains, and with its 
wide and lofty verandas, its projecting towers, its pretty 
corners here and there, is a facsimile on a somewhat 
smaller scale of that favorite and beautiful house. Any 
one who has seen the hotel on the line of the Ulster and 
Delaware Railway, can picture to himself the Piney 
Woods Hotel at Thomasville. The late Captain Gillette, 
who kept the Mountain Hotel, kept this one also for 
years. William E. Davies is now the manager of the 
Piney Woods. 

Each hotel, the Mitchell House and the Piney Woods, 
will accommodate nearly three hundred guests. 

The Best Route. — The Atlantic Coast Line, called 
"the short route to Florida," is by all odds the best 
way to reach Thomasville from the Eastern States and 
from New York. The vestibule train, "the Florida 
special ' of the Pennsylvania Railroad, which traverses 
this route, is the quickest and most luxurious train, 
with its dining-room car, library car, etc., but this only 



THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 209 

leaves New York on three days of each week, Mondays, 
Wednesdays and Fridays, and you must apply for seats 
some time ahead. The ordinary trains, with Pullman 
sleepers, are good enough for the majority of travellers, 
and they afford people opportunity to stop over and see 
the cities en route — Washington, Richmond, Wilming- 
ton, N. C. , Charleston and Savannah. Or, if you prefer, 
you may come direct from New York, in about thirty- 
two hours, to Waycross, Ga. , where there is connection 
for Thomasville, distant four hours. But if you ''stop 
over," you must be prepared to travel in ordinary 
coaches between the Southern cities ; parlor cars are 
not attached to local trains. It would help Thomasville 
materially if the Savannah, Western and Florida Road 
(everybody in this section calls it "the S. F. &W.") 
were to run a quick train with a parlor car to meet the 
Florida special. The return would not be great at first, 
but it would prove profitable to the road ultimately. 
Strangers and tourists make it a point to go to the 
stations to see the Pennsylvania vestibule train at differ- 
ent points of the road, and the colored folk stand and 
stare at the beautiful appointments with eyes and 
mouth wide open. "Only God's people," remarked 
one surprised darkey, '* can ride in them carriages." 




A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 



If you tell people in New York that you are ''going 
to Brunswick for the winter," they will probably look 
at you with surprise ; some will say, " Do you mean New 
Brunswick?" having in mind New Brunswick, N. J. ; 
while others will say, ' ' Brunswick ; where is Bruns- 
wick, in what State ? I never heard of it. " Well, new 
as Brunswick may appear to the majority, it is an old 
place, having been settled and laid out in the year 1763. 

Where is Brunswick? — Brunswick is in the South- 
eastern part of Georgia, not far from the Florida border, 
sixty miles below Savannah, seventy miles north of Jack- 
sonville. The city covers an area of two miles square, 
and is handsomely laid out, the whole adorned by some 
of the most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be 
found in the South. It is situated on a small peninsula 
jutting out into the sea, surrounded on three sides by 
salt water, but protected from the severity of the ocean 
winds by outlying islands. Brunswick is only eight 
miles from the sea and there are no fresh water streams 
or swamps within many miles to breed malaria, the air 
being constantly renewed and vivified by the health- 
bearing breezes of the ocean, that render it, as official 
statistics show, one of the healthiest cities in the Union. 

Among its natural advantages are its climate, uni- 
form and mild in winter, its geographical position being 
but little north of St. Augustine, ice being seldom seen, 
and snow rarely, if ever ; its forests of pine, palm and 
moss-covered oak, its healthy soil, pure water, semi- 
tropical foliage and plants, the magnificent drives, and 
last, but by no means least, its superior water facilities, 

^10 



A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 211 

having one of the finest harbors in the South Atlantic. 
As to the trees : I have stood under the far-famed old 
oaks of England, I have seen the moss-covered trees of 
Bonaventure, of which all Savannah proudly boasts, and 
admired the great oak at Thomasville, whose branches 
measure ninety feet across ; but there is an oak here 
which belittles them all for age, strength and size. 
Tjnder the "Lovers' Oak " at Brunswick it is said that 
one hundred teams can find shelter from the sun's rays. 
It is called Lovers' Oak because a marriage was once 
performed under it, several hundred witnesses being 
present at the open air ceremony. 

Jekyl and Other Islands. — There are a number of 
beautiful islands near here which are fertile almost be- 
yond one's imagination. Everybody has heard of Jekyl 
Island, and all true sportsmen know it. It is famous as 
the location of one of the finest club-houses in the 
country, the island being a paradise for the sportsman 
and fisherman. It is literally full of game ; deer, wild 
turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors are 
sure of good sport. Being a natural game preserve, 
upon which the general public have not been permitted 
to hunt, the increase has been rapid and the supply 
practically inexhaustible. The club-house, seen from 
the river, is a noble structure. Then there is St. Simon's 
Island, which lies off the coast at a distance of seven 
miles from Brunswick, and is noted for the wonderful 
fertility of its soil. It excels especially in fruits — 
oranges, peaches, figs, bananas, olives, lemons, limes 
and pecans, growing in great profusion. The climate is 
almost perfection. Ice is seldom seen, and snow has 
been seen here but once within the present century, 

A Doctor's Certificate. — Brunswick's peninsular lo- 
cation, almost surrounded by salt water, with immense 
pine forests on the north, extending hundreds of miles 
into the interior, conduces to a state of healthfulness 
excelled by no other place of its population in the whole 



212 A NEW SOUTHERX RESORT. 

South. Dr. H. Buford, Health Officer of the City of 
Brunswick, makes the following official statement : 
'* The result of my observation and experience as a 
practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent 
thereto, during a residence of seven years, proves that 
our mortuary statistics show a minimum death rate — 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y., not excepted. During an active 
practice of seven years I cannot record a single case of* 
scarlet fever or diphtheria. Hay fever and asthma are 
unknown here." 

A Mistake of Congress. — Brunswick is a century and 
a quarter old, but it went along lazily and slowly, like 
many other Southern towns and villages, and the war 
somewhat retarded its progress. Nor was it helped by 
a committee from Congress which, some years after the 
war, took a cruise along the Atlantic coast to examine 
the facilities of our seaports. Congress has not earned 
its peculiar reputation without deserving it. This com- 
mittee may have included members who w^ere learned 
in the law, or who knew how to hoe potatoes, but of 
harbor advantages and the requirements of ships they 
must have been innocently ignorant. They reported 
that "the harbor of Brunswick was twelve feet deep." 
This went abroad and ships went elsewhere. How 
near to the truth came this report may be judged by 
one instance. On Friday, February 3, 1888, the English 
steamer, the Port Augusta, cleared this port drawing- 
twenty feet of water and carrying 6,559 bales of cotton, 
weighing over three millions of pounds and valued at 
8300,000. It was the largest cargo ever cleared from a 
South Atlantic port, and ships drawing twenty-four 
feet of water enter and leave here without the slightest 
danger of touching bottom. So much for the congres- 
sional report. That the shipping facilities of Bruns- 
wick are becoming known may be judged also from the 
following facts and figures : During the whole month of 
February, 1887, the exports of cotton, naval stores and 



A NEH^ SOUTH ERX RESORT. 218 

luirber amounted to $78,000 while for only th.^ first Jive 
days of Feb. , 1888, the exports amounted to over $300,000. 
These figures are given on official authority from the 
collector of the port. Are more significant statements 
needed to show the marvellous advance and improve- 
ment of this place ? Here they are — the exports in the 
year 1886 amounted to less than a million dollars ; in 
1887 they footed up over two and a quarter millions. 
The imports of 1886 were less than $5,000, the imports 
of 1887, $48,000. 

A Cri'V BY THE Sea. — How has all this seeming pros- 
perity and increase of business on the water affected 
the land? Well, in 1884 the po]3ulation of Brunswick 
was 3,000, four years later it was 8,000 ; the increase of 
taxable property was thirty-three per cent. greaterin"87 
than '^6 ; the comptroller of the State says that this 
county (Glynn) has made for the last twelve months a 
larger pro rata increase than any other county in the 
State of Georgia, for eight years ago there was not a 
brick building in the place ; now there are blocks and 
blocks of brick stores and fine dwellings ; increase in 
the value of the land is almost fabulous, and there is a 
new brick hotel here, "the Oglethorpe," which cost 
with furniture, $160,000, the equal of which for site and 
style cannot be found between Washington, D. C. and 
St. Augustine, Fla. 

The Ooi.E'iHORPE. — The new hotel is an evidence of 
and in keeping with the new order of things. The loca- 
tion of the building is choice — on the highest ground in 
Brunswick, afi'ording fine views and rare sanitary facili- 
ties. The house is not merely considered to be, but is 
fire-proof. So perfect is the protection against fire 
that the company insuring the property reduced the 
usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the charac- 
ter of the building and the excellence of the lire system 
adopted. The Oglethorpe stands on the principal 
street, near the railway depot and steamboat wharf, on 



214 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT, 

a plot of ground about three hundred feet square, the 
main building having three stories and being two hun- 
dred and sixty-seven feet long, with wings running back 
one hundred and forty feet. It is the largest building 
in the place, and with its graceful round brick towers at 
each corner, and its turrets and spires jutting through 
the roof, here and there, it is the most prominent ob- 
ject you see as you approach Brunswick from any di- 
rection, either by land or water. The Oglethorpe, be- 
ing new, is the latest exponent of all that is best and 
most approved in modern hotel building, and of course 
has all the ** modern improvements." The drawing- 
room is a grand apartment, reminding you of the 
parlor of the United States at Saratoga ; the dining- 
room is lighted from three sides, and seats three hun- 
dred persons ; the main floor, the entrance, office and 
lower hall are tiled with Georgia marble in beautiful 
colors, and there is a covered porch for promenading 
which reaches up to the second story. It is two hun- 
dred and forty feet long, and from twenty to twenty- 
five feet wide. 

The bedrooms of the Oglethorpe are larger, as a rule, 
than those of most hotels. Even the ''small rooms" 
connecting with the suites are twenty feet long by 
eleven wide, and have two windows, each seven feet 
high by three feet wide. The "tower " rooms, with their 
open fire-places, carved wooden mantels, tiled hearths, 
rich Moquette carpets, portieres of velours, and lace cur- 
tains on brass poles are as handsome as the bedrooms 
of any other hotel that the writer has seen, and if the 
walls and ceilings were artistically decorated and fres- 
coed, the "tower" rooms of the Oglethorpe probably 
might compare with those palatial bedrooms of the Hotel 
Metropole in London. A peculiarity of the Oglethorpe 
is that there are no back rooms ; each one faces the 
street or overlooks the bay, but a few hundred feet dis- 
tant. Between the bay and the house the grounds of 



A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 215 

the hotel are attractively laid out. As to the table and 
general management of the Oglethorpe, it is only neces- 
sary to say that the manager is Warren Leland, Jr. , a 
member of the celebrated Leland family— a name long 
associated with some of the leading hotels in the 
United States. 

En Route to and from Florida. — Brunswick is 
reached by rail from the North by the Atlantic Coast 
Line and the vSavannah, Florida and Western Railroad 
by way of Savannah and Waycross, Ga. , and from Jack- 
sonville, Florida, by railway to Fernandina in one hour, 
and thence by steamboat in four hours. The water route 
is very pleasant. The boats, if not splendid specimens 
of naval architecture, are at least staunch and comfort- 
able. You take an inside route, hug the shore, pass 
many beautiful islands and get glimpses of most pictur- 
esque scenes. 

Tourists contemplating a visit to Florida for health or 
pleasure do well to break the journey at Waycross or 
Jessup, visit Brunswick and see the charming country 
thereabouts. The run is made from Waycross to Bruns- 
wick in three hours and ten minutes. 

The route Southward is from New York to Quantico, 
Va. , over the Pennsylvania tracks ; from Richmond to 
Charleston via Atlantic Coast Line ; from Wa3xross to 
Brunswick by the Plant system. Leave New York 
(Desbrosses or Cortlandt streets) at 9 P.M. or midnight 
— through car to Waycross. 




A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. 



Key West, in Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Island), de- 
rived its name, so says history, from the fact that the 
island was strewn with hmnan bones. The conquerors 
didn't take time to btiry the bones of the conquered. 
The change, corruption Spaniards call it, from Cayo 
Hueso to Key West was easy. 

The United States bought the island from Spain in 1816. 
The formation is coral and it contains about two thou- 
sand acres. The Hon. C. B. Pendleton, editor and pro- 
prietor of the Equator-Democrat, and a man of culture 
who has served in the State Senate, showed me an 
island, or key, as they call it in these parts, distant 
from Key West five miles, and which he believed to be 
the most southerly point in the United States. Another 
authority informed me that Cape Sable, distant from 
Key West about sixty miles, is the most southerly 
point. 

To quote Editor Pendleton, Key West is distant from 
the tropical line only thirteen miles. Doctors will differ: 
another authority gives it as sixty miles. I am inclined 
to think that on the tropical question my editorial 
brother is correct in his estimate, because Key Wejst is 
only distant from Cuba eighty or ninety miles. 

The climate is about the same as that of Havana. In 
the Cuban capital the mercury never goes below sixty 
degrees ; in Key West the lowest point recorded is fifty- 
one. 

Key West is the ninth port of entry in the United 
States, collecting more import duty than all the other 

216 



A CUBAN CfTV AV THE UN/TED STA TES. 217 

ports* in the States of Florida and Georgia and one-half 
of Alabama combined. 

In i860 the population was about two thousand, one- 
quarter of whom were colored ; but in 1869, after the 
rebellion in Ciiba, the population of the island began 
to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand, 
and they claim that it is the largest city in Florida. 

The inhabitants are mixed, very much mixed — Cubans, 
negroes, Americans, Chinese, etc. The negroes come 
from Nassau, Cuba and other places. 

Key West was bought of Spain, as before remarked ; 
the island is nearer Cuba than any other land, it is 
not in any sense American except that it flies the 
American flag, and it seems to be now, to all intents 
and purposes, a foreign place — a Spanish colony, as it 
once was. Spanish is the prevailing language, and 
Cubans predominate. All the public notices and hand- 
bills are printed in two languages, several newspapers 
are printed in Spanish, and only one, the Equator- 
Democrat, in English. It is difficult to make a purchase 
or to transact any business unless you speak Spanish, 
and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars 
who can understand you if addressed in English. The 
car drivers swear at their patient, sadly abused mules 
in hard Spanish. All the American residents and busi- 
ness men speak the prevailing tongue, or are learning it 
as fast as they can, for without it they cannot so readily 
conduct business. 

.Speaking of the street cars, they are all open, of 
course, winter and summer. In fact, there is never any- 
thing resembling northern winter weather in Key West ; 
light summer clothes and Panama hats are worn the 
year round. 

But you are not obliged to patronize street cars. Rid- 
ing in private conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare 
than even in London, or in a country town on the Conti- 
nent. In London the smallest cab fare is one shilling 



218 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. 

(twenty-five cents) ; in Key West yon can ride a* short 
distance for a dime, and a longer distance for fifteen 
cents. The conveyance is a very light and very dirty 
wagonette on fonr wheels. The driver is as dirty as his 
vehicle, and his horse resembles those poor skeletons 
which I have seen blindfolded and pushed into the arena 
at a- Cuban bull fight. 

Such tropical fruits as the sugar apple, the guava, 
mango, the soft and sweet sapadillo, thrive in Key 
West. The climate and salt atmosphere combine to 
make it the home of the palm. There are many tall, 
slender and beautiful cocoanut trees, some with their 
graceful leaves waving as high as eighty feet in the air, 
making an interesting and pretty picture against a 
cloudless sky. 

But the cultivation of the cocoanut in Key West might 
be made very profitable as well as picturesque. At 
present there are comparatively few of such trees ; their 
cultivation ought to be encouraged. The tree has no 
tap root, and will thrive on a thin soil. It comes into 
bearing eight or ten years from the nut ; and after that 
the fruit grows and increases every month in the year. 
Like the orange tree, the older it gets the more it bears. 
A bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for than an 
orange grove, and the revenue therefrom is greater. It 
requires no cultivation, and is as hardy in its section as 
the cabbage palmetto, that grows everywhere in Florida. 
Besides, cocoanuts can be shipped in any month of the 
year ; they require no packing, no care in handling, 
and they will bear transportation for thousands of 
miles. There is a good market for green cocoanuts in 
these parts as well as for matured ones. When the nut 
is fully grown, but green, it contains about two glasses 
of clear juice, milk we call it in the North. It is consid- 
ered a healthful beverage in the tropics and sells per 
glass in the streets of Havana for the equivalent of five 
cents. 



A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 311) 

Nature has favored Key West with a perfect climate. 
It is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico, as blue and as 
beautiful as the famous Danube. Nature in fact has 
done everything she could to make the place desirable 
as a residence for man, but man has done little or noth- 
ing for himself, thus far, and if the truth must be told, 
notwithstanding its favorable natural conditions and its 
lovely surroundings. Key West is not yet a desirable 
place to live in. It has no sanitary laws, for nothing 
whatever has been done with a view to sanitation, and 
yet with the salt ocean all around the little island, how 
easy it would be to make it healthy and clean, for it 
is neither one nor the other. There is no such thing as 
system, no sewerage whatever in the town excepting 
one iron pipe which leads from one hotel, the Russell 
House, to the sea, and even that one pipe is allowed to 
clog occasionally. 

A liberally illustrated and large edition of the Eqiia- 
tor-Dernocrat was issued in 1889, which presents a very 
rose-colored view of Key West. In that paper I find 
that ' * the pleasant streets running at right angles are 
as smooth and hard as adamant." I am not certain 
that I am very well acquainted with adamant, but I 
know that the streets of Key West are unpaved and 
that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets I ever 
saw. As I have lived in Baltimore, in New York and in 
New Orleans, my testimony ought to be accepted on 
such a theme. I speak of Key West in fine weather; 
what it must be in wet weather I don't like to imagine. 
If nothing but very deep ruts, holes and great gullies in 
the roadway resemble adamant then is Key West ada- 
mantine beyond doubt. 

There is not a boot-black in the town ; none is needed. 
Nobody thinks of blacking his shoes ; it would be ab- 
surd. I spoke on this point with a young New Yorker 
who hails from the fashionable precincts of Madison ave- 
nue. He is a business man who is liberal in the matter 



220 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. 

of money, usually dressy, and extreme^ neat in his 
person. He has been in Key West six months, and in 
all that time not a brush has passed over his shoes. 

I regret to differ with my learned and courteous 
friend, the editor of the Democrat, on the subject of 
hotels. Let him speak for himself. He says that *' The 
Russell House, the leading hotel in the city, is second 
to none in the State in accommodations." Now I had 
an idea that St. Augustine and Jacksonville and Tampa 
were in Florida, and that there were such hotels ' ' in 
the State "as the Ponce de Leon and The Cordova at 
St. Augustine, and the new Tampa Bay Hotel at Tampa 
Bay, not to mention a number of other first-class houses 
'* in the State." 

Directl}^ opposite the Russell is the Duval House. 
You may never have heard of it ; it is not one-third the 
size of the Russell House. I know nothing of the apart- 
ments of the Duval, for I investigated no further than 
the dining-room, but that was enough to establish its 
good reputation. It will be a long time before I forget 
how beautifully garnished a dish they made at the Duval 
of a red snapper, and the delicious flavor of their ome- 
lette soufflee remains with me still. The Duval is pre- 
sided over by a Cuban lady, Mrs. Bolio, who kept for 
years one of the leading hotels in Havana. She is evi- 
dently a woman who knows what good living is. 

Cigar-making is a very large and important industry 
in Key West. The place was selected for cigar-making 
because the climate is suited to the "curing" of to- 
bacco in the leaf, and because it is near Havana. 
There is something also in the name. Everybody does 
not know that this (Spanish) island is United States 
territory, and some smokers if they see a " Key West " 
label on a box of cigars believe, without stopping to 
think, that they are smoking a foreign-made cigar. 
Xow a Key West cigar if made from Havana tobacco 
of fine quahty has just as good a flavor ^s if it were 



A CrBAN CITY IN THE U Nil ED ST A TES. ^LH 

made in Cuba, but the Key West cigar can be sold at a 
lower price because the import duty on cigars is much 
higher than the duty on the raw material. 

Having the same climate as Havana, the best climate 
in the world for tobacco curing, and the cigars being 
made by Cubans, who are the best cigar-makers in the 
world. Key West turns out just as good cigars as can 
be produced anywhere — provided alwa3^s that tobacco 
of the first quality is used. And the cigar need not 
consist entirely of Havana tobacco. A cigar of choice 
flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos — Havana " filler " 
and "binder," with, say. a " Connecticut seed " or Suma- 
tra wrapper. 

The manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided 
largely in building up the business of Key West. One 
authority says that there are two hundred factories, 
employing five thousand operatives, and transacting a 
business amounting to seven millions of dollars annu- 
ally. But this report may be exaggerated. However, 
here are some more figures, and if the reader is mathe- 
matically inclined he can draw his own conclusions : 
Key West during 1890 turned out one hundred and forty 
millions of cigars. 

There are very few Spanish or American cigarmakers 
in Key West; the majority are Cubans, with a very 
small sprinkling of negroes. There are so many fac- 
tories and so many operatives that, although it is a 
cigar-producing place, very few cigars indeed are sold 
at retail. Everybody smokes, every one invites you to 
smoke : cigars are almost as free as the air. It would 
be a paradise for a young dude who has a slender purse 
and who is addicted to the weed. 

U'pon the courteous invitation of \\ Pohalski & Co., 
who have a branch in Havana, with headquarters in 
FrankHn St., New York, I paid a visit to their factory, 
which is one of the largest in Key West, and I was much 
interested in what I saw. Pohalski Sz Co. erected their 



222 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 

own factory, upon their own ground, and it is one of the 
most imposing edifices in Key West. They also built 
upon their own land a number of small houses which 
they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure ; for 
its size it is quite a respectable colony. 

Although very large, employing several hundred 
hands, the factory is orderly, exceedingly clean and 
neat, showing good government. Perfect system reigns 
throughout the entire establishment. The first floor is 
used for the business offices, for cases of tobacco and 
for the '' strippers •/' the whole of the second floor is oc- 
cupied by cigar makers, and the third floor is used by 
the ** packers," also for curing leaf tobacco and for stor- 
ing cigars in boxes. 

A ** stripper" is one who, with the dexter finger and 
thumb of the right hand pulls the stem from the leaf 
while the leaf is damp, the leaf being held in the left 
hand. It is done by a dexterous and quick movement, 
not a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem. The 
most costly leaves, for wrappers, are only entrusted to 
experienced operators. The strippers in this factory 
are numbered by scores. They are all females, all 
Cubans, and range in age from ten years old to women 
of fifty. 

It is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman 
with habits of refinement, to see the older women, while 
at their work of stripping, smoke long, thick cigars. 
They hold the cigar between their teeth and seldom 
remove it, not even to talk. They are rough-looking 
cigars, rolled into shape by the women themselves from 
the leaves they are stripping. 

A more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar- 
making floor, above. You will be surprised upon enter- 
ing to see a man standing erect in the centre of the 
room, book in hand, reading aloud. You cannot help 
but notice, although Spanish may be Greek to you, that 
the reader's voice is powerful and well trained, reach- 



A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. 228 

ing to the extreme corners and to the most distant ears 
on the vast floor. He is a professional reader. The 
several hundred men club together, each paying a nom- 
inal sum for the reader's services. In this way, while 
engaged in their work, they hear the news of the day 
and are regaled with the latest Spanish novel. 

" Packing " cigars is a technical term. It is not sim- 
ply to tie them up with pretty silk ribbons and place 
them neatly in a box. A packer is one who assorts the 
colors also. It is a very nice and delicate piece of work. 
It demands a good eye for color and long experience, 
and then it can only be done in a certain light, of course 
not by artificial light, nor unless the day is bright. 

An overcast, murky and heavy sky is not good for 
packing — assorting, it might be called. In a few hun- 
dred loose cigars placed on a table ready for ' • pack- 
ing," the casual observer will probably see only three 
or four colors. They are first assorted roughly to bring 
together those of decided colors — light brown, medium, 
dark brown, etc. Then a pile of dark or light shades is 
gone over again and again until the different piles of 
cigars are alike, as if they were all made from one leaf 
and turned out by machinery. The packer also dis- 
cards a cigar that is not perfectly made, or one not uni- 
form with the rest. A special few, exact as to form and 
hue, are selected for the top row, to catch and please 
the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised. 
A good packer is paid better than any other operative 
in the business. Men and women are employed in it, 
some of them earning as high as twenty-five or thirty- 
five dollars per week. 

The sponge trade is also a very large and important 
industry here. The sponges are found in this part of 
the Gulf of Mexico, and the trade gives employment to 
a great many people. I visited the largest spong(.^ 
house, that of Arapian & Co., and saw there in different 
stages, sponges valued at a quarter of a million dollars. 



224: A CUBA X CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. 

Such a stock of sponges, as you can easily imagine, oc- 
cupies much space. My only surprise was to find such 
valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building. 
A fire would spread easily, and the whole would be 
rapidly consumed. 

I have spoken of the dirty, unpaved streets of Key 
West ; it would be unfair not to mention a lovely drive 
which you can take for a few miles on the edgQ of the 
Gulf. You go around the old forts, you see lighthouses 
and other interesting objects en route, the bracing air 
from the Gulf fans your cheeks, the ocean is spread out 
before you, and if you return in the early evening, and 
near dinner time, you will most likely be favored with a 
grand sunset, and you will surely have a keen appetite. 

Key West is reached from New York b}^ steamers of 
the Mallory line, and from New Orleans by New Or- 
leans and Havana steamers, but decidedly the best 
and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the 
Plant line of steamers which leave Tampa, Florida and 
Havana, Cuba, three times a week. The " Mascotte " 
and "Olivette" were built for this route. They are 
both staunch, swift, beautifully appointed ships, whose 
commanders were in the Atlantic service for years, the 
"Olivette" being the fastest boat of her size in the 
world — a model vessel. 

If you are going to Key West for pleasure — it is possi- 
ble for people to go there with that end in view — you 
will go from New York to Jacksonville via the Pennsyl- 
vania and Atlantic coast lines and there take the Jack- 
sonville, Tampa and Ke}^ West Railroad, although part 
of this "railway" journey consists of a sail on the Gulf 
of Mexico, from Tampa. 

The island, with all its objectionable features, has 
churches of different denominations, it has convents, 
good schools, and has one large substantial and beauti- 
ful brick and stone building for a custom house, for 
which the government appropriated one hundred thous- 
and dollars. 

Key West has a police force numbering fourteen offi- 
cers, including men of all colors and several nationalities. 



ST. AUGUSTINE- 



AN ANCIENT CITY MODERNIZED. 



What a contrast, to leave the dust and dirt of Key West 
its unpaved roadways, full of deep ruts, large holes and 
great gullies : Key West, with its mixed population of 
twenty thousand negroes, Cubans, Chinamen and white 
folks : Key West, minus sidewalks, and minus many 
evidences of a high state of civilization : what a con- 
trast is it to arrive in this beautiful city of the South, 
with its smooth-paved streets, its cleanly and aristo- 
cratic air, and its three wondrously beautiful vSpanish 
hotels, all within speaking distance of each other. It is 
like leaping, if I ma}" use such an expression, from hades 
to heaven. 

The changes here within the past lour years are great. 
Most important to the tourist is the erection of a railway 
bridge which crosses the St. John's River. Four years 
ago you were obliged to stop at Jacksonville if you ap- 
proached from the north ; if from the south, you 
steamed across on a ferry-boat from Palatka. Now you 
take your seat in a drawing-room car at Jersey City, in 
the North, or at Tampa, if you approach from the 
South, and you need not leave the car until the conduc- 
tor calls out ** St. Augustine " -thirty-one hours by ves- 
tibuled train from New York, tw^elve hours by the West 
India Fast Mail from the Gulf, at Tampa. 

As to other changes, much land has been reclaimed 
from the river, miles of roadway have been asphalted 
and paved with wooden blocks ; the old fort is being re- 
stored, for which work the government has appropriated 



226 ST, A UGUSTINE, 

$15,000; many new houses have been built, all of co- 
quina and in the Moorish style ; to the oldest house in 
the town has been added a new stone tower ; there has 
been erected a new City Hall, which includes a fine 
market ; and to crown it all, as it were, there is a new 
church, a Memorial Presbyterian Church, built in mem- 
ory of the beautiful daughter Mr. Flagler lost two years 
ago. The structure is so attractive, so pleasing to the 
eye, that in driving away from it you find yourself con- 
stantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural 
lines in view as long as possible. 

It is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of 
the Ponce de Leon Hotel, the drawing-room of which, 
with its magnificent proportions, its onyx fire-place, its 
ceiling decorations, its rich carpets and furniture, and 
its rare paintings by Bridgman, Koppay, and other 
artists, is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world. 
To call it palatial is no compliment to " the Ponce " par- 
lor, for I have seen no apartments in royal palaces that 
are more pleasing, and I have been favored with a view 
of many palaces in many countries. 

The smooth and pleasant walk around the Alcazar 
Hotel measures just half a mile. The colored boys 
know : they use it semi-occasionally for a foot or bicycle 
race : " twice around the Alcazar is one mile " they will 
tell you. 

One of the novel features of the Alcazar is the swim- 
ming pool, into which the sulphur water rushes up from 
the artesian well with great force. There is room in the 
pool (40 by 120 feet) for scores of swimmers, and there is 
always a number of visitors looking from the galleries 
above on the lively scene below. With the mercury 
ranging between 70 and 80 the sulphur water is indeed 
refreshing ; and they say it is quite invigorating. Tem- 
perature of the water, 75 degrees. 

Mr. Flagler has bought all the land around and about 
his three hotels, so that nobody can erect anything any- 



ST. AUGUSTINE. • 227 

where near him. He is not the man to do anything by 
halves. 

The sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a 
suite I occupy in the castellated tower on a corner of the 
Hotel Cordova. The walls of the building are of gray 
coquina. Outside each window is a small and separate 
"kneeling balcony," protected by ornamental iron rail- 
ings, painted a reddish brown— such balconies as you 
see in some buildings in Madrid. The windows have 
white lace curtains and the shades are alternately blue 
and crimson — contrasting pleasantly with the neutral 
tint of the outer walls. To the east, within stone's 
throw, is Cordova Park ; to the west, the same distance, 
is the one-acre park of the Alcazar, with its tropical 
foliage, pretty walks and handsome fountain ; while 
diagonally opposite, same distance again (about one 
hundred feet), loom up the terra-cotta turrets, towers, 
arches and gabled roofs of the Ponce de Leon Hotel, 
with its grand park of four and a half acres. This may 
convey some idea of the situation ; to describe the scene 
requires the pen if not the pencil of an artist. 

The manager of these three grand hotels in St. August- 
ine is O. D. Seavey, who is also entrusted in summer 
time with the management of the magnificent Hotel 
Champlain, on Lake Champlain. In the winter season 
Mr. Seavey's address is St. Augustine, Fla. ; in the sum- 
mer he should be addressed Hotel Champlain, Clinton 
County, N. Y. 



ABOUT TAMPA. 

THE INN, PORT TAMPA, FLx\, 



Tampa is of interest historically, being the place 
where Ferdinand De Soto landed May 25, 1539. From 
here he started on his search for the mines of wealth 
supposed to exist in the new world, which resulted in 
the discovery of the Mississippi river. It is here also 
that Narvaez, having obtained a grant of Florida from 
Charles V. of Spain, landed with a large force April 16, 
1528. 

Tampa is on the Gulf coast of Florida, two hundred 
and forty miles from Jacksonville. There are two trains 
daily with Pullman cars from Jacksonville and St. 
Augustine to Tampa, passing through Palatka, Sanford 
and Winter Park, both having direct connection with all 
Eastern and Western cities and one being a through 
train from New York. 

Its rapid growth during the past seven years from 
about eight hundred inhabitants to as many thousands, 
has been brought about by the Plant system, which 
completed the South Florida railroad to Tampa for the 
purpose of developing Tampa commercially. 

Dr. Long, a United States army surgeon, wrote of 
Fort Brooks, at Tampa, "This post has always been 
considered a delightful station." Dr. Long's reports 
and other reports to the surgeon-general at Washington 
show it to be one of the most healthful stations in the 
country. 

Peninsulas have always been thought dCvSirable be- 
cause of their climate, which gives them advantages 

228 



■ ABOUT TAMPA. 229 

over other localities, and among peninsulas Florida 
is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly 
as it is affected by the warm waters of the Gulf of 
Mexico. 

The investment of large capital in constructing a new 
hotel in Florida with the expectation of drawing to it 
the requisite patronage, demanded a knowledge of the 
requirements of winter tourists who visit the place for 
health or pleasure. Those requirements have been 
carefully studied by Mr. H. B. Plant, president of the 
Plant Investment Company, acting under the advice of 
eminent scientists, in the selection of Tampa. The new 
hotel is situated on the west side of the Hillsborough 
river where it empties into Tampa bay, opposite to and 
facing the city, which is within easy walking distance. 
From the river to the front of the hotel there are exten- 
sive lawns and flower beds, with orange, palm and other 
tropical trees, the hotel grounds and property including 
twenty-two acres. At the rear of the house there is a 
long stretch of pine lands. 

As you view the house at a distance, from the deck of 
a steamer, or from a car window, with its long stretch 
of brick front, its iron and stone trimmings, its many 
towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed, balloon- 
shaped domes, each surmounted by a shining gold 
crescent, it impresses you at once as being a great 
oriental palace. And this idea is aided by the palms 
and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is 
surrounded. 

The oriental idea also strikes you as you enter. There 
is a grand " office," the ceilings are supported by stout 
marble columns, and the music-room, the drawing- 
room, and all the minor rooms on the main floor are 
furnished in the very best taste, the matter of expense 
never seeming to be a question with those who 
selected the furniture and decorations in different parts 
of the world. It is safe to say that very few winter 



230 ABOUT TAMPA. 

or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly 
furnished. 

The hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and 
is practically fireproof, the outer and inner walls being 
of brick, with steel beams and concrete floors. There 
has been the most approved scientific work in drainage 
and plumbing, and there is an abundant supply of good 
water. On each floor the wide hall extends the entire 
length of the main building — 512 feet. There are no in- 
side rooms. Every room has the sun during some por- 
tion of the day, and a large number of suites have pri- 
vate baths. The house is heated by steam, in addition 
to which there are open fire-places in the rooms. The 
latest improvements have been introduced in lighting. 

Mr. Plant did a great deal for Tampa when he ran his 
railroad down there. His lines of steamers from Tampa 
to Havana and Mobile have greatly helped the pros- 
perity of the place, and now he has crowned his good 
work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regard- 
less of the cost. If there was not already a Plant City in 
Florida, I should suggest to change the name of Tampa to 
Plant City. The house will accommodate four hundred 
guests ; the rates are five dollars per day. It is only open 
during the winter, from Christmas until the first of April. 
But do not go to Tampa without your summer clothes. 



All the above relates to the big new hotel at Tampa 
Bay, but all of it is written at the Inn, in Port Tampa, 
distant from Tampa Bay proper nine miles. The Inn is 
"little," it accommodates only seventy-five guests, but it 
is a gem of a hotel. It is built on, or rather over, the water 
on piles, and is like an island, being actually surrounded 
by water. There is always a pleasant breeze on one 
side of the house, and a breeze is very grateful in this 
latitude. As I write, the mercury in a thermometer 
hanging outside my bedroom window marks 75 degrees ; 
this is at 5 P.M., Saturday, January 31. We sleep with 



ABOUT TAMPA. 231 

open windows, and nothing more than your pajama or 
a sheet is necessary for a covering. 

Two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely 
of sliding-windows through which you can see wild 
ducks and fish in great quantities. I have seen wild 
ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open win- 
dows of this dining-room. You can throw a line into 
the water as you sit at dinner and if it be properly 
baited you will probably find a mullet at the end of the 
cord before you reach your cafe noir. 

It goes without saying that there are good sailing and 
fishing at Port Tampa : Spanish mackerel and the pom- 
pano abound, the latter conceded by epicures to be one 
of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world. Here 
also is the famous tarpon — Silver King he has been 
christened. In fact Port Tampa is a very paradise for 
sportsmen. It. is easy to supply the table with oysters, 
fish and game in profusion. The table, by the way, is 
liberally provided, and the service by Swiss and French 
waiters is good. 

The dining-room of the Tampa Inn reminds you of 
the dining-room of the Hygeia Hotel at Old Point Com- 
fort, not for its size, but for its water surroundings, and 
the scene outside brings up recollections of the Surf 
Hotel at Fire Island. Picnic Island, across the Gulf one 
mile, might be a bit of Long Island. But there the 
similarity ends because the Inn, unlike the vSurf Hotel, 
is a new house and is luxuriously furnished. 

Steamers leave here weekly (every Tuesday) for 
Mobile, and tri-weekly (Monday, Thursday and vSatur- 
day), for Key West and Havana. 

The railway depot conveying you to Tampa Bay (fre- 
quent daily trains), is at the door of the hotel, and from 
this same depot you can get a through car to Jackson- 
ville or to New York. 

The rates at the Inn are four and five dollars a day. 
It is proposed to keep it open all the year. 



MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 



The name Monterey means King's Mountain and was 
bestowed on the place in 1602 by Don Sebastian Viz- 
caino in honor of Jaspar de Zuniga, Conte de Monterey, 
at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It was he who sug- 
gested and projected the expedition undertaken by 
Vizcaino. 

When the members of this expedition returned to 
Spain the place returned to its primitive condition and 
nothing was heard of it till a band of Franciscan mis- 
sionaries arrived on this coast in 1768, one hundred and 
sixty-eight years after the first discovery. This expe- 
dition came under the direction and guidance of the 
president of the band, Father Junipero Serra. 

At the risk of being charged with sacrilege, I will in- 
terpolate right amid this ancient history a bit of fresh 
and interesting news imparted to me by a driver. He 
showed me from the road a high plateau overlook- 
ing the sea, where plainly to the naked eye were to be 
seen preparations for receiving a statue, which is to be 
in place and to be dedicated before long. It will be in 
honor of Father Junipero before mentioned; it will cost 
ten thousand dollars, and the wife of Senator Leland 
Stanford will foot the bill. The site for the statue is a 
magnificent one, and if the work of art be worthy of its 
position, the city of Monterey will have something it 
may be proud of. 

There's a " History of Monterey County" by E. S. 
Harrison. I didn't know before I came here and looked 
into it that Monterey was the first place settled in the 
State of California; that the first custom house in the 

282 




o 

S 

Q 



H 
O 



MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 238 

State (now an old rookery) was established here ; that 
Monterey was once not only a bustling city, but the 
capital of the State. It is not a wholly deserted village 
now, but its commercial glory, like that of Newport, 
R. I., which was once a greater port of entry than New 
York, has departed, never to return. But Monterey will 
always be dear to the hearts of Californians, from its 
historic associations and connections. 

** The first European lady to come to California," says 
Harrison, ''was the wife of Governor Pages, who ar- 
rived in Monterey in 1783. Their child, born about 1784, 
was probably the first child born in California of Europ- 
ean parents." 

Monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from 
San Francisco, and is easily reached in about four hours 
by the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Company. 
On the way, in San Mateo county {en passant, what 
musical names all these counties and mountains have), 
within ten to forty miles from the starting point, Third 
and Townsend streets, you pass the rural homes ot 
San Prancisco's millionaires. Some are set in great 
forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in peren- 
nial bloom. Next, the beautiful city of San Jose comes 
in view, and a flourishing city it appears to be from the 
car windows. As the train rolls along you keep in sight 
for many miles the dome of the Lick Observator}-, 
which glistens in the sunlight on the summit of Mount 
Hamilton. 

And then you haven't eyes enough to take in and en- 
joy the beautiful views of ocean, river, valley and 
mountain as the tram dashes along— the Coast Range 
mountains on your left, on the right the Santa Cruz 
mountains, with the sim setting behind them— a glori- 
ous moving panorama. 

After passing what is called the most fertile valley in 
the State Monterey is reached, if that be your destina- 
tion, but there is a more important station one mile this 



234 MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA. 

side of Monterey. When the conductor calls out " Hotel 
del Monte " very few passengers in the cars remain 
seated, and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town 
of Monterey, almost empty. 

The first action which the Pacific Improvement Com- 
pany took when they concluded to make of this place a 
summer and winter resort was to purchase some land 
for the purpose, so they purchased seven thousand acres. 
Part of this domain was a forest, and of this they 
selected for their hotel "garden" a simple matter of 
o?ie hundred and twenty -six acres. Forty acres of this they 
cultivated in flower-beds, lawns, vegetables and fruit ; 
the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it, 
after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to 
lay out within their gates a few miles for drives and 
paths. 

Then it occurred to them that it would be well to have 
a grand outside drive as an additional attraction, so they 
made one, cutting away mountain, forest and bluff ; 
going through the woods, four or five miles ; skirting 
the ocean for the same distance ; altogether a nice little 
post-prandial drive of seventeen miles. But this is not 
much — for California. The drive being private prop- 
erty it is used only for the guests of the Hotel del 
Monte, the owners of which keep it in the best order, 
and in summer time have it watered. It is macadam- 
ized and in as good condition as the drives in Central 
Park, New York. 

The road winds toward the bay through a forest of 
oaks and pines. For two or three miles it will be cool, 
dark, shaded and sweet smelling, and presently you get 
a view of the ocean. If the wind is high, as it was on 
the twenty-second of March, you will see foaming white- 
caps in the distance, and the spray dashing wildly on 
the bare brown rocks in the foreground, making a pic- 
ture which, on the day we saw it, was awfully grand. 
I don't mean this in the sense that girls do when they 



MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, 235 

say a thing is "awfully nice ;" I mean that the boister- 
ous waves were almost frightful with their impetuous 
rush and their terrible roar. 

To quote dear old Fitz-Greene Halleck, whose statue 
in Central Park few recognize : 

The winds of March were humming 
Their parting song, their parting song. 

It was a habit of my predecessor on the Home Journal, 
General George P. Morris, to publish annually this 
sweet song of Halleck's in the Home Journal during the 
first week of March. It was a singular fancy of Morris's 
and it pleased his brother poet. 

But I am getting away from my story — and the surf. 
The seals didn't seem to mind the roaring surf or howl- 
ing wind. Their unearthly bark formed part of the 
grand chorus. They tossed their heads and rolled their 
ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their com- 
mand, which is not saying much for their sylph-like 
movements. No; water is their element. 

If you expect to see the seals of the same color as the 
sealskin sacques worn by women, you may not see the 
seals at all, for they match in color with the brownish 
gray rocks on which they romp. They have not gone 
through the process of " London dyeing." In fact they 
are not fur seals, and, in reality not seals at all in the 
popular sense, but sea lions. I accepted the driver's 
statement that there were five hundred seals on the 
rocks. 

The cultivated grounds of the Hotel del Monte aston- 
ish you with their size and beauty and with the neatness 
and order in which they are kept. Probably not else- 
where is there such variety in floriculture. Everything 
from everywhere seems to thrive here. Nor do I know 
of any section of country where there are such noble 
oaks and pines, but probably the company claim too 
much when they say that "the garden is the finest, the 



336 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 

most gorgeous, the richest and most varied in all the 
world. " It seems to me that the Tuileries Gardens are 
richer and that the gardens in Hyde Park are more 
pleasing to the eye and the sense of smell. I speak of 
the floral display only, but I saw the foreign gardens at 
their best season and the Del Monte gardens in March. 
Flowering plants, habitats of regions below the equator, 
bloom freely at Del Monte throughout the winter in the 
open, retaining their original habit without the aid of 
glass. 

The trees are wonderful. I carry with me not only a 
thermometer but a tiny tape measure, the latter in my 
pocket. I asked the driver to stop as we were driving 
through the grounds, while . I measured a pine and I 
found that it was four and a half yards in circumference 
near the ground. The driver told me how tall it was, 
but I will not quote him as I'm not giving you * ' Califor- 
nia stories." This pine was not pointed out nor did I 
select it for its size. There were others within a few 
feet of where this giant stood just as large, and for all I 
know there are hundreds on the ground much larger. 

Of course the palm abounds, all trees of tropical 
growth are here; there are calla lilies for borders, vio- 
lets, heliotrope, nasturtium, honeysuckle in wild pro- 
fusion, and this in March, mind you. Is there ivy? 
" Well, rather," as an Englishman might answer such a 
question. A leaf now lies on my table which measures 
five inches across. The grounds are in charge of a 
skilled landscape gardner with a force of thirty-five men 
—English, American and Chinese. 

Foreigners from other lands may rail against the 
Chinese as much as they please, and our legislators may 
be right in excluding them lest they overrun the coun- 
try, but it must be said in their favor that they are a 
peaceful, industrious set. and there are no better ser- 
vants for indoor or outdoor work. Under certain con- 
ditions, however, they are as obstinate as mules. When 



MONTEREY, CALIEORNIA. 2;i7 

you engage them you must be exceedingly careful in 
giving them instructions, for they will always continue 
to do what they are at first told to do; you cannot 
change their ways. 

Mr. George Schonewald, manager of Hotel del Monte, 
while we were chatting in his office, illustrated it to me 
in this way: " Observe that Chinaman wiping carefully 
the casing of that white door. He was told when he 
first came here that he was to do that sort of work at 
this time of day, and if the heavens fall he'll do it. If I 
were to ask him this minute to leave that door and pol- 
ish this plate glass window he might obey, but it would 
upset him for the day, if not for all time. If you change 
your mind and want the work done in a different w^ay 
you had better change your Chinaman, you can't change 
their ways. This is the general experience with Chinese 
labor in California. 

And this brings me to the fact that nearly all the 
walls and all the interior woodwork of these great build- 
ings are painted white. The lack of color becomes a 
little tiresome to the eye, but one thing comforts you, 
it is kept white — not a mark, not a spot to mar its per- 
fection. Chinamen are always washing either doors, 
window^s, surbase, or whatever part of the floor is not 
carpeted; all is pure white except the floor of the beauti- 
ful dining-room, w^hich is of dark English oak kept 
highly polished. 

The series of buildings is in the modern Gothic style, 
the main building three hundred and fifty feet front, 
with a central tower eighty feet high and wings or an- 
nexes two hundred and eighty feet long, showing an 
entire floor area of sixteen acres. An acre or two, more 
or less, is nothing — in California. The bed-room in 
which this is written is an ordinary room here, eighteen 
by sixteen feet. Even the marble wash-basin is worth 
measuring — three feet three in circumference. Run- 
ning water, gas, fireplaces; and closets built with par- 



238, MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, 

tition walls in every room. There are five hundred and 
ten rooms, and seven hundred people can be accom- 
modated comfortably. 

I am surprised here, as I have been elsewhere in Cali- 
fornia, at the low rates which obtain at hotels. A 
placard on the door of this well-furnished room, with 
beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious bed, reads: 
" Rate for this room, with board, for one person $3.50; 
for two $6.50. With bath-room $4 and I7 per day." And 
in the bath-room there appears to be an inexhaustible 
supply of boiling water. There is no charge made in 
the ladies' billiard room, which adjoins the parlor; no 
charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake. 

If the plumbing is right, and so it appears to be, there 
is no trouble with the question of drainage, the ocean 
being at the door. The drinking water is brought from 
Carmel river, eighteen miles distant, in the mountains. 
A ton of ice per day is made on the premises. Some of 
the vegetables are raised near the hotel, and there is a 
dairy farm connected with the property measuring un- 
told acres. 

Native wines are sold at Hotel del Monte lower than 
I've seen them either here or abroad. It's easy to be a 
"swell" at Del Monte. A half bottle of Zinfandel is 
opened and served at table for fifteen cents, and a very 
good wine it is, too, so far as pleasing my palate goes. 
But I don't profess to be so well versed in wines as the 
late Sam Ward or the present Ward McAllister. There 
is a secret, however, in the low charge for California 
wine at Hotel del Monte — the company have theii own 
vineyards. What haven't they got? They have noth- 
ing less than a Steinway concert grand in the parlor 
and another in the ball-room. 

There's a feature that almost escaped being put 
down, and yet it is worthy of special mention. To the 
first floors in the two annexes you neither ascend nor 
descend any stairs ; nor do you to the second floor. To 



MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA. 289 

the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade ; to 
the second you ascend an inclined arcade. If you have 
a room even on the third floor you only walk up one 
flight of stairs, unless you prefer the elevator. 

This is not a new idea, however. I remember being 
shown through an old, unused palace in Berlin which 
was constructed in the same way. A member of the 
royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism 
and so was rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this 
way. The porter at this hotel, wheeling his truck '* up- 
stairs " loaded with trunks, reminded me of the rheu- 
matic royalty. 

In all hotels recently constructed there is an electric 
bell as well as an electric button in every room. If you 
leave word to be called in the morning, there's no rap- 
ping outside your door — rapping loud enough to awaken 
every sleeper near your apartment. There is an elec- 
tric button in the ofhce which connects with a bell in 
your room, and to this call you will respond. There is 
no escape from it ; you must get out of bed to stop the 
ringing. 

The first Hotel del Monte, opened in 1880, was de- 
stroyed by fire : the new house was erected five years 
ago. The present manager, Mr. George Schonewald, 
opened the first house and superintended the construc- 
tion of the second. As his name indicates, he is not to 
the manor born. He arrived in this country twenty-five 
years ago without a penny in his pocket, but with a de- 
termination to make a position for himself. There is 
no secret in his success. Anybody can gain success 
who will follow the Schonewald method. It was not 
** blind luck" with him, but industry, unceasing indus- 
try, directed with unusual intelligence. 

Schonewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position. 
On his arrival in this country he decided to be a practi- 
cal confectioner, and not long after he received the high- 
est salary ever paid in the State to a confectioner. Then 



240 MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA, 

he took to cooking and earned the highest salary ever 
paid to a cook in the State. Step by step has he moved 
from the very bottom round of the ladder to the man- 
agement of one of the largest and finest hotels in the 
country. 

Schonewald is a worker. He is supposed to take 
three meals a day, but sometimes his breakfast is not 
touched till late in the afternoon. From my window I 
have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before 
my toilet was completed ; and your humble servant, as 
a general rule, is out of bed before seven A.M. The in- 
terests of the company first, his own comfort last, seems 
to be this manager's motto, 

Yes, your Germans are workers. Mrs. Schonewald 
is her husband's helpmeet: she fills the position of 
housekeeper at Hotel del Monte, and that probably ac- 
counts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably furnished 
— a rocker here, an easy, arm-chair there, with a neat 
white "tidy "on the upholstered back. There's noth- 
ing like a woman's eye, a woman's thoughtfulness in 
providing all the tasteful etceteras which make a home 
comfortable and complete. 

I will close with a clipping from the tourist book, *' To 
the Golden Gate," issued by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
road: — **The Eastern traveller coming to California's 
coast and failing to see * Del Monte ' has indeed missed 
not everything, but a goodly part. " 




SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. 



In area, Santa Cruz county is one ot the smallest in 
California, but in resources, productiveness of soil and 
natural attractions it might be called the largest in the 
State. In its equable climate is grown almost every- 
thing indigenous to the north temperate zone. 

The county is in central California, eighty miles south 
of San Francisco; it has a coast line of forty miles, and 
includes, according to the United States Government 
survey, 280,000 acres. So rich is it that there are not 
more than five thousand acres of waste land in the en- 
tire county. South of this is the Pajaro Valley, the 
most fertile spot of California, called ' ' the wonder of 
the Pacific." 

There is not much stock-raising in Santa Cruz county. 
The mountains, being heavily timbered, are not adapt- 
ed to grazing. Nor are citrus fruits cultivated to any 
great extent; but the apples of Santa Cruz county 
are superior to any grown in the State, the quality of 
the wine is unsurpassed in the State, and the remark- 
able richness of the soil renders the cultivation of pota- 
toes, beans, hops, sugar beets, etc., profitable to a de- 
gree unknown in less fertile sections. The vegetable 
products of the county form one of its most extensive 
industries. E. S. Harrison, a trustworthy authority 
in California history, calls Santa Cruz "a vegetable 
wonderland." 

Let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region 
by a comparison. While riding on the Southern Pacific 

241 



242 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA, 

railway over the Texas plains, a month ago, the travel- 
ling auditor of the company, who was on our train, sur- 
prised me by stating that the company is glad to lease 
its lands at four cents an acre annually. Land within a 
couple of miles of where this is written is leased to 
Chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre annually, 
and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three 
hundred dollars. 

The City of Santa Cruz, the principal city and county 
seat of the county, lies between the Pacific ocean and 
the northern side of Monterey bay, about eighty miles 
south of San Francisco. It nestles among the foot-hills 
of the Santa Cruz mountains, and its outskirts are 
bathed by the sea. The city proper has a population 
of six thousand five hundred, and if East Santa Cruz is 
included, the population is about nine thousand. The 
city is growing rapidly. New business houses are 
constantly going up, capital is coming from the East, 
and everywhere are evidences of a steady, healthy 
increase. 

Santa Cruz has good railroad facilities. Two branches 
of the Southern Pacific run here direct. They are called 
the broad gauge and the narrow gauge roads. The 
broad gauge is an important line running through Santa 
Clara and Pajaro valleys, passing San Jose and the 
larger towns between San Francisco and Monterey. 
The narrow guage runs from San Francisco no farther 
south than Santa Cruz. It is more of a local line and 
stops at the smaller places — places, however, of such 
great interest to tourists as Big Trees. The steamers 
of the Pacific Steamship Company plying between San 
Pedro (near Los Angeles), and San Francisco stop here, 
regularly, on their way north and south. 

In writing from Hotel del Monte in Monterey, I men- 
tioned some large oaks and pines ; there are as big and 
still bigger trees here, or very near here, at a place ap- 
propriately named Big Trees. It is a ten minute ride 



SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. 243 

on the narrow guage road of the Southern Pacific, or an 
hour's drive by carriage from Santa Cruz. You need 
not go to Yosemite, Calaveras or Mariposa to see giants 
of the forest ; here they are, a grove of 320 acres, some 
of the trees 300 feet high and 60 feet in circumference. 
These figures are quoted, but I measured a few speci- 
mens myself. One about four feet from the ground 
was 52 feet in circumference. The interior of another, 
** General Fremont," had been burned out. Four per- 
sons beside myself stood inside of it, and thirty-five 
more, we calculated, could have found room in com- 
fort. This measured six feet in diameter about five feet 
from the ground — inside measurement — the " shell " of 
the tree being probably a foot thick. There are dozens 
and scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove, 
nearly as large. 

The trees are of the famous California Redwood 
species, the wood hard as flint and very heavy. The 
largest specimens are named and bear tablets, "Daniel 
Webster," '' General Grant," '' General Sherman," **In- 
gersolVs Cathedral," etc. Under the shadow of the last 
named, the honorable gentleman held forth one day to 
an admiring audience. *'Big Trees" is owned by a 
wealthy widow of San Francisco, Mrs. Walsh. 

Powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest, 
some of them have been uprooted by nature's convul- 
sions and lie humbly and horizontally on the ground. 
I noticed that a few of these were charred. The keeper 
of the grounds explained that year after year fire had 
been tried, but the hardy giants would not yield to 
flame. They are so thick and hard they won't burn as 
they lie. " Then why not cut them up," I suggested. 
'• Oh !" was the answer, '* lumber is worth nothing here ; 
it is so plentiful." 

They have done a little "cutting," however. In ex- 
change for a dime you will get a piece of red wood 
quite heavy enough for your satchel, or a piece of the 



244 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. 

bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket. The bark 
is three or four inches thick. 

This is a famous wine country. We visited the tun- 
nels of the '* Santa Cruz Mountain Wine Company,*' 
whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on the 
hills. The tunnels are dug out of the soft, sand-stone 
rock and are dark and rather cool. That is to say, the 
air seemed cool when compared with the atmosphere 
outside, but as a matter of truth, which is often stranger 
than fiction, the thermometer showed the temperature 
in the tunnels to be 52 degrees, and it remains at about 
that figure all the year round. There are three such 
tunnels, each 380 feet long, 24 feet wide, and 18 feet 
high. The vineyards of the company include two hun- 
dred acres. 

In these deep, cool tunnels the company has stored in 
great vats no less than two hundred thousand gallons of 
wine. Bottle after bottle was opened for our party and 
so cheaply was it held that the glasses were freely 
washed with the wine as the different kinds were tasted 
— port, sherries, clarets and white wines. 

The claret has good body, and if you add a little 
water to it, as the French treat vin ordinaire, it makes a 
very good drink for a thirsty soul at the dinner table. 

California Angelica has been a popular wine for 
twenty odd years: the Angelica produced in Santa Cruz 
is sweet, smooth, oily and delicious. 

A brand of Sauterne so pleased my palate that I or- 
dered twenty gallons to be shipped to New York. But 
I'll let you into the secret of this seemingly extravagant 
order ; the price is only one dollar per gallon — and not 
Jones, but I, paid the freight. In ordering this wine I 
was guided first, by my own taste — it has delicious fla- 
vor; secondly, I felt assured that it was absolutely pure. 
The grapes are here, on the spot, ship loads of them, 
in the season, and there's no incentive for adulteration. 

The well-kept roads and fine drives about Santa Cruz 



SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA, 245 

are not its least attractive feature. One of them you 
can take from the shore, driving over a bridge of the 
San Lorenzo river, passing among other places the twin 
lakes, on the borders of which are the summer home 
and settlement of the Christian Church. You keep the 
mountains in view all the way, and a turn here or there 
shows you the city, the bay, or the ocean. 

The three-mile cliff drive, passing Phelan Park, takes 
you immediately above the rock-bound shore of the 
Pacific, where you see giant crags upon which the ever- 
lasting waves have had their effect. Some of the rocks 
stand off from the shore twenty and fifty feet, and 
through these the powerful waves have worked great 
holes, through which the waters rush with a tumultuous 
roar, dashing their spray far above. These '' natural 
bridges " would be considered a rare sight if they were ■ 
the only feature of this scene, and would attract people 
from a distance, but where there is so much to admire 
and astonish, they are only one among the many mar- 
vels that here make an embarrassment of pictorial 
riches. 

The city has three banks, good public schools and 
water- works ; it is sewered to the ocean, it has electric 
cars, fine public buildings, and two flourishing news- 
papers, the Sentinel and the Surf. Good society is not 
lacking, and beautiful homes abound. Major McLaugh- 
lin's fine Gothic villa cost $70,000 ; the residence of 
Mayor Bowman commands beautiful views of the bay 
and the town ; the home of William Kerr, two miles 
out of the city, is a handsome structure in the Queen 
Anne style, having two wide entrances and bay 
windows, affording extensive views of the valley 
and bay. Mrs. P. B. Fagen's house on MiSvSion 
street, one of the principal residential streets, at- 
tracts the attention of all passers-by. Other pretty 
homes are those of D. K. Abeel, R. Bernheim, Mr. 
Glover and Mrs. E. J. Green. 



246 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 

Mr. J. Philip Smith, a New York capitalist, who has 
travelled far and wide and who passes much of his time 
in Europe and New York, came here with his family 
four years ago, bought a two-acre site upon which a fine 
house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed, 
laying out the grounds in a tasteful way, making it one 
of the handsomest residences in Santa Cruz. It has a 
high and enviable position near the Sea Beach Hotel. 

It reminds you at once upon entering it of a Parisian 
interior and on closer examination you are not surprised 
to learn that many of the things of beauty which adorn 
the rooms had a French origin. The Smiths are great 
travellers and in their journeyings about the world have 
"picked up " any number of art works and curios which 
now find an appropriate resting place. 

One of the finest views here, one of the most beauti- 
ful of its kind in the State probably, is to be had from 
Logan Heights, the estate of Judge J. H. Logan. Judge 
Logan is president of the Santa Cruz Co. Bank and one 
of the most esteemed citizens of this section. The house 
not imposing architecturally, stands on a mesa or pla- 
teau of about twenty acres, in which beautiful roses and 
other choice flowers bloom the year round. From this 
elevated position a series of bird's-eye views are spread 
out before you, the extent, beauty and variety of which 
are not easily described. 

At this point you are two hundred feet above the 
Pacific ocean. Immediately below, in the foreground, 
is the whole city of Santa Cruz, with its high school, its 
gardens, reservoirs, depot, hotels, and its church spires. 
To your left, eastward, are the villages Soquel and 
Aptos, famous lumber centres. A few miles further off 
in the same direction, ghstens Monterey bay, backed 
by the Santa Cruz mountains. 

Southward, beyond the city at your feet, winds the 
bay of Monterey. Look twenty miles further south, 
and, in this clear atmosphere, you see the sleepy old 



SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 247 

town of Monterey with the mountains as a background 
for the picture. 

To your right, westward, is the ocean again — alto- 
gether, forming a number of diversified and beautiful 
pictures. 

There are a number of good hotels at Santa Cruz. 
The leading house is the Sea Beach Hotel, of which Mr. 
John T. Sullivan is the lessee. He has furnished it in 
good style and it is well appointed. 

Viewed either from the heights or from the shore, 
above which it stands nearly one hundred feet, it is a 
picturesque place, with beautifully terraced grounds, 
gracefully sloping to the beach and ornamented by 
flowers of every description. Every room in the Sea 
Beach has hot and cold running water, electric lights 
and call bells. The parlor is on the main floor, in the 
corner round tower of the building, and, with its many 
windows, is uncommonly pleasing. Through or from 
these windows you get the best features of the scenery 
hereabouts, from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel 
grounds to Loma Prieta and the mountains in the dis- 
tance, or to Monterey, beyond the bay in the fore- 
ground. 

The leading commercial hotel is the Pacific Ocean 
House, located on the principal thoroughfare in the 
centre of the city. It has all modern improvements as 
well as large, pleasant sample rooms. Mr. John T. 
Sullivan is the proprietor of this hotel also, which is all 
that need be said in reference to the excellence of its 
management. Mr. Sullivan is not unknown to New 
York. He was a tried friend of Horace Greeley's and 
a trusted oflicer under Hon. Thomas L. James in the 
New York Post-office, in which place he rose after faith- 
ful service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the 
newspaper department. Mr. Sullivan has been in vSanta 
Cruz only five or six years. I saw a modest little two- 
story building in which he started here, "keeping board- 



248 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. 

ers," and he is now interested in the two leading hotels 
of the town, as part proprietor of one and full proprietor 
of the other, with the prospect of making his fortune. 
With success Mr. Sullivan has made many staunch 
friends, among them the mayor of the town, judges, 
bank presidents* and other leading citizens. 

The steamship landing is nearer the Sea Beach Hotel 
than it is to any other house ; the broad guage station is 
quite convenient to the hotel, and the narrow guage 
station five minutes walk around the corner. Santa 
Cruz is attractive in winter, but in summer it must be 
delightful. 




NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ. 



PASADENA. 



People who care more for comfort than for great 
" style," who prefer a quiet, home-like, family house to 
one of noise and bustle, those who are seeking health, 
pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than 
the music, dancing and entertainments of a fashionable 
hotel may jot down as a memorandum '*The Painter 
Hotel, at Pasadena, Cal," thirty-five minutes by train 
from Los Angeles and fifteen minutes by ''free 'bus" 
from passenger station. 

It is a new house, was built in '8S; it accommodates 
seventy-five boarders, and is owned and kept by J. H. 
Painter's Sons. The house is airy, the bedrooms are 
comfortably (not luxuriously) furnished, the parlor is 
pleasant, the class of guests select, the table is well pro- 
vided, and at once, let me say, ere the important fact 
escapes me, the rates are remarkably low for the nice 
appointments and good fare supplied — only $2.50 per 
day for transient guests, and from $12.50 to $17.50 per 
week to season boarders, for people come to stay for a 
month or so — some spend the whole winter here. The 
house is open the year round, it being pleasant in sum- 
mer as well as in winter. It is a mountainous district, 
and the ocean, from which come soft winds in summer, 
is only thirty minutes' distant in a south and south- 
westerly direction. 

Yes, and here are two more facts — Pasadena is one 
thousand feet above the sea, and the Painter Hotel, 
which is one and a half miles from the centre of the 
town, stands on the highest point hereabouts. 

249 



250 PASADENA. 

The grounds comprised in the property include ten 
acres, upon which the owners grow their own fruits for 
the table — peaches, apricots, raisins, prunes, etc. 

Do you want to visit the town? Street cars pass the 
door of the Painter. And if you want a view it will 
"pay" you to climb up to the roof of the hotel, where 
there is an observatory. Three miles off is the Ray- 
mond Hotel, plain to your view in this clear atmosphere. 
On one side is the San Bernardino range of motmtains, 
on the other the Sierra Madre range. You may see San 
Jacinto, ninety miles away, also Wilson's Peak, upon 
which the new observatory, with its powerful lens, is to 
be placed; and beautiful San Gabriel valley is spread 
out immediately beneath you, a feature of which, at this 
writing, are acres of large, orange-hued poppies, so 
bright that you could almost imagine them aflame, 
especially if the wind is blowing, thus giving vibration 
to the thin, dehcate leaves. 

The drives are a most delightful feature: — to the city 
proper, with its wide avenues of beautiful residences, 
to San Gabriel mission, and to ** Lucky" Baldwin's 
ranch, a pleasant afternoon drive. 

Those who are planning a winter or spring tour will 
thank me for suggesting a visit to the Painter House, 
but if people demand ** style," if they would dance to 
orchestral music; if they demand great size in a dining- 
room and grandeur in the drawing-room, and they are 
willing to pay for it, all these are also obtainable here, 
or rather at East Pasadena, which is only three miles 
distant; eight miles from Los Angeles. And the price, 
$4.50 per day, $21 to. $28 per week, is reasonable con- 
sidering what you get for the money. 

Reference is made to the great Raymond Hotel, 
which was built in 1886, where they have a bar, as well 
as billiards and bowling; elevator, electric lights, a re- 
ception-room, music-room, grand parlor, and a dining- 
room which accommodates three hundred persons. 



PASADENA. 251 

From your seat at table you see " Old Baldy " looming 
above the clouds eleven thousand feet and snow-cov- 
ered ten months out of the twelve, looking like a great 
sugar-loaf and recalling the Jungfrau, near Interlaken, 
Switzerland. 

Like the dining-room of its modest neighbor, the 
Painter Hotel, every table in the Raymond is decorated 
daily with fresh flowers plucked from the hotel grounds 
— this is '* winter," mind you. The grounds of the Ray- 
mond cover a space of fifty-four acres, so there is no 
lack of fruit (oranges, lemons, etc.), to say nothing of 
the roses, blue bells, honeysuckle, dandelions, helio- 
tropes and violets which may be picked ad libitum — if 
you don't regard the painted signs. 

A view from one of the Raymond's verandas is not 
much unlike that from the front steps of the Grand 
Hotel in the Catskills, only the former is far more ex- 
tensive. 

The proprietor of the Raymond is W. Raymond, of 
Raymond's Vacation Excursions, Boston, and the man- 
ager is M. C. Wentworth of Wentworth Hall, in the 
White Mountains. The post-office address is East Pasa- 
dena, Cal. 

Orange Grove avenue and Marengo avenue and the 
paths in the grounds leading to the houses are lined 
with luxurious fan palm trees, interspersed with great 
cacti and not a few century plants, which it is proven 
here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years. 
The calla lily, that delicate plant which is so tenderly 
cared for in the East that the flower is wrapped in cot- 
ton wool, here grows in such profusion that it is used 
for hedges. You will see fields of " callas " at Pasa- 
dena, raised for shipment to large cities. The whole of 
Pasadena is like one immense garden, a garden city 
indeed. 

Pasadena Cottages. — You would scarcely credit it. 
SO I won't tell you, that some of the *' cottages " in this 



252 PASADENA, 

new place are as large and elaborate as those on the 
New Jersey coast, between Seabright and Elberon, and 
some of them would not look out of place alongside of 
the grand Newport "cottages." 

Mr. Kernaghan, editor of the Pasadena Star, has a 
fine home here. One of the prettiest places belongs to 
and is occupied by Mrs. Kimball, the widowed daughter 
of Rufus Hatch of New York. 

Charles Frederick Holder, formerly of New York, 
came out here six years ago for his health, and having 
obtained it has made this his home. He has a cozy cot- 
tage on Orange Grove avenue in which is his study, 
where you may find him at his ease, wearing a short 
black velvet coat or smoking jacket. 

Mr. Holder is a journalist and litterateur, a frequent 
contributor to current magazines and leading news- 
papers. He has published two or three brochures on 
Pasadena. One of his contributions concerning this 
section was an illustrated article which appeared in 
Harpers Weekly. It was entitled "The Rose Tourna- 
ment," and described a beautiful ceremony which takes 
place here annually, on New Year's day. Mr. Holder's 
style is finished and scholarly and his language choice, 
with no waste of words. Being a man of cultivated 
taste, with a rare poetic fancy, he is at home here, when 
treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits 
and flowers. 

Among others who have built houses and who occupy 
country seats at Pasadena is Governor Markham, of Cal- 
ifornia. A Mr. Nelmes has a lovely ten-acre place, and 
with it a generous heart. A sign placed conspicuously 
outside his gates reads as follows : ' ' All are welcome 
to drive through these private grounds and groves. 
Eastern tourists are each invited to pluck one orange." 

Some people talk of the winter months in California 
as "the rainy season." This may be an old story, told 
of what was the case years a^-o. It certainly is not 
true to-day. Kxaininini>- the records. I find that from 



PASADENA, 



253 



January 5 to February i of this year there was no rain at 
all in Pasadena, and in all of that time there were but 
two cloudy days — January 23 and January 28. 

I have been in Southern California now for about three 
weeks and have seen it rain only on two days and one 
night — two days in Los Angeles and one night, for one 
hour, at Coronado Beach. 

I don't advise you to throw away your umbrella, as 
did a tourist from Colorado when coming here, but my 
experience would show that there is very little use for 
such an article in Southern California, even in what used 
to be called " the rainy season." 




LOS ANGELES. 



If yon are going from Los Angeles to San Diego, or 
vice versa, don't go by boat nnless yon have a great af- 
fection for the sea. First, yon mnst change at San 
Pedro, from cars to boat ; second, the waterway occu- 
pies much more time ; but what is most important, if 
yon go by rail, over the Sante Fe route, yon get magni- 
ficent and diversified views of the ocean, close views of 
foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains. 
You pass through a fertile country, see picturesque cot- 
tages, large sheep and cattle ranches, and great rifts in 
the mountains that make you smile when you think of 
*'gaps" in the east, which are so widely advertised. 
The train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles 
and recalls similar scenic features of land and water 
which you admire in travelling from Aberdeen to Bal- 
later over the "Great North of Scotland Railway," a 
pretty little road with a big sounding name. If you 
should have to stop on a switch, or for a "heated jour- 
nal," for five or ten minutes, you can step off the car 
platform and in a few minutes you can gather a large 
bouquet of sweet, wild flowers, among them fragrant 
"mignonette" as they call it here. Southern California 
might well be named the land of flowers, and this branch 
of the Sante Fe is entitled to be called by that much 
abused term, picturesque. 

Florida Oranges "Beaten." — I wrote last season 
about some Florida oranges which were shown to me at 
the .Windsor Hotel, Jacksonville. The largest of them, 
if I remember aright, uieasured thirteen inches in cir- 

254 



LOS ANGELES, 255 

cumference and weighed twenty-three ounces. I asked, 
"who can beat these?" They are "beaten." Thismorn- 
ing I weighed an orange in Los Angeles which turned 
the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured 
nineteen and one-quarter inches. This particular orange 
was light for its size, because it was not quite ripe nor 
' ' full " when picked. It came from George Bunce's grove 
(pray do not print this "grave") at Rivera, a smalltown 
nine miles from Los Angeles. The grove was only set 
out in 1888. All the oranges on the tree from which this 
one was picked were as large and as heavy as the one 
described, but there were only three of them. 

All the ticket brokers' offices, all the fruit stores, segar 
shops and all the shops of small traders and of places 
patronized by men have their doors and windows thrown 
open during business hours. No "protection " from the 
weather is needed. It is never cold enough for closed 
doors or windows in the daytime. Nor are some of these 
places of business closed even at night except by strong 
iron-wire netting covering the fronts of the stores. This 
open feature strikes a visitor as very strange at first, but 
one soon becomes accustomed to it. All through the 
winter open street cars are used. 

Four years ago, when the Los Angeles boom was at 
its height, the foundation was laid near Main street for 
what was intended to be the largest hotel in the United 
States. There it stood and there it stands to-day (the 
foundation), the bricks appearing just one foot above the 
ground level. These bricks enclose a space of two 
acres. Pullman, of sleeping-car fame, was one of those 
interested, and he says that the idea has not been en- 
tirely abandoned. The idea may yet exist but the open 
lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome. 
Meanwhile Mr. O. T. Johnson erected a very handsome 
hotel, The Westminster, on the corner of Main and 
Fourth streets, which will accommodate two hundred 
and fifty guests. The site of the Westminster is choice; 



256 LOS ANGELES. 

the house contains all the modern improvements; it is 
well furnished and well patronized. 

As I write, in my bedroom of the Westminster Hotel, 
looking north I can see, without rising from my seat, 
great high mountains covered with snow. They pre- 
sent a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere, 
with the sun shining upon them. 

That ** cranky critic," as the New York Hotel Gazette 
calls Max O'Rell, would be suited at the Westminster 
Hotel. O'Rell complains because in American hotels 
guests have regular seats; that each person upon enter- 
ing the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he 
pleases. The contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned. 
A notice is prominently posted near the elevator which 
reads : * * Positively no seats reserved in the dining- 
room." The waiters are young, intelligent American 
girls of a good class, some from New York and some 
from Nebraska, all uniformed in white. They look neat 
and clean, are alert to take an order and quick in serv- 
ing it. 

Strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to- 
day's luncheon in the Hotel Westminster. Fresh-picked 
strawberries are served every morning for breakfast. 
Not a dozen or two small, hard berries, such as I have 
seen served for a ''portion" at hotel tables in Florida 
during February, but a saucerful for each guest of large, 
ripe berries that have a delicious flavor. Strawberry 
ice-cream was on the dinner menu — the cream made, 
not from "strawberry flavoring," but of the honest 
fruit. Fresh peas and Lima beans figure on the bill, 
also oranges in profusion, picked from the groves 
hard by. 

All the way between New Orleans, La., and Los 
Angeles, Cal., on the Southern Pacific railroad, you pay 
five to ten cents each for oranges ; as soon as you reach 
Los Angeles, boys with baskets of the golden fruit 
swarm about the cars crying out, " Oranges, three for a 



LOS ANGELES. 



257 



nickel, six for a dime." If you have a little patience 
you will hear, " Oranges, eight for a dime," and if you 
wait till the train is about to start you can get ten for a 
dime. Possibly after you are out of hearing they are 
sold at ten cents a dozen. 




"THE CALIFORNIA," IN SAN 
FRANCISCO. 



California being one of the largest of these United 
States, the Californians thought that their chief city 
should have large hotels, so they built in San Francisco 
the Baldwin House, the Lick House, the Occidental and 
larger than any of these, the Palace Hotel, "larger 
than any hotel in existence," it is claimed. Whether 
this claim is well founded or not, the Palace is large 
enough to suit the most extravagant American ideas. 
It occupies three acres of ground. It has seven hun- 
dred and fifty-five bedrooms; number of rooms all told, 
ten hundred and fifteen. 

But with the growth of the State and the growth of 
culture and good taste, Californians and tourists from 
other States demanded something above and beyond 
mere size;* and so two years ago was erected "The 
California." There are several " California Hotels " in 
San Francisco, in fact, an old house directly opposite 
the California now calls itself **The New California," 
probably because the name is new. So many houses 
with names near alike give trouble to the Post-ofiice 
people, but the title of the house of which I write is 
simply ** The California." 

It is in a central and accessible part of the city — in 
Bush street, just off Kearney street, which runs nearly 
parallel with Market, being not far from the Chronicle 
building, which with its great clock tower running up 
hundreds of feet in the air, serves as a finger or sign- 
post from many parts of the city. 

The front is of cedar-colored sandstone, and with its 
modern, low-arched entrances and high, round towers, 

258 



THE CALIFORNIA. 259 

is uncommonly pleasing to the eye. There are one hun- 
dred and forty rooms in the house, and it is nine stories 
high, the higher floors being most desirable. The light 
is better as you ascend, and the views from the win- 
dows across the bay and the Golden Gate are a con- 
stant delight. From my bedroom window I can plainly 
see the graceful movements of the white squadron, 
which, with the green hills in the far distance make a 
magnificent picture. The California was erected by 
*' an estate," and the estate considered not the expense. 
They started out with the idea to build a hotel as near 
perfection as possible, and they succeeded. 

Every known precaution is taken against fire. It was 
the intention from the first to build a house as proof 
against fire as men, money and materials could make it. 
Scientists were consulted as to sanitation and plumb- 
ing, and to these points special thought and attention 
were given, Such luxurious fittings in marble and silver 
plate I have never seen surpassed, if equalled; not even 
in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour through the South 
and West, and I have visited hotels that cost all the 
way from one to three millions of dollars. 

Instead of marble and brass, which are used so freely 
in large American hotels, rare and beautiful woods pre- 
vail in decorating the interior of the new house. The 
ground floor is finished in quartered oak, the second 
in bird's-eye maple, the third and fourth in sycamore, 
the fifth and sixth in red birch, and the seventh, eighth 
and ninth in oak. The wood was cut, carved and pol- 
ished especially for the building, and is of the most ex- 
quisitely beautiful grain. 

Max O'Rell would be pleased. Printed rules are not 
posted on all the bedroom doors : it would be an act of 
vandalism to thrust a nail into hard wood of such high 
polish and beautiful grain. The furniture and carpets 
harmonize in colors and are very rich : there seems to 
have been no thought of economy. The bedrooms are 



260 THE CALIFORNIA. 

furnished as you would furnish your own apartment, 
provided you had a large bank account. They only 
lack pictures, mantel ornaments and such dainty etce- 
teras, as you find, for instance, in the bedrooms of 
Long's Hotel in London, to give them a finished, home- 
like and elegant air. 

Some idea as to the excent to which this wood decora- 
tion is carried, may be gained when it is told that the 
wood used to decorate the parlor and music-room cost 
six thousand dollars, and yet they are small apartments 
when compared, say, with those of the Windsor Hotel, 
New York. 

The music-room adjoins the parlor, and is only sep- 
arated from it by a pair of portieres. It is circular, 
with a frescoed dome. It is only twenty-four feet in di- 
ameter ; but a veritable bijou is this music-room. It 
has tables and a cabinet of onyx, pieces of statuary and 
bronze, two piano lamps and a pedestal upon which 
stands a vase decorated with scenes painted by a French 
artist. The vase itself is three feet high. There are 
two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room cur- 
tained in front. Occasionally these recesses are put to a 
very good use. I have seen young couples, a modern 
Claude and Pauline, engaged in very close conversation 
behind the curtains, whispering '' soft nothings " to each 
other. " Soft " without doubt were the words spoken, 
and, so far as I heard, they amounted to nothing. 

In the central front wall of this room there is a win- 
dow, and pendant in this window is a colored lamp in 
which electric light is continually burning. There are 
similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy recesses — the 
scene, with its Moorish surroundings, reminding you of 
an Oriental synagogue, in which there is a similar lamp, 
and in which, according to Jewish custom in public 
places of worship, the light is never allowed to go out. 
Of electric lamps, there are twenty-five hundred in the 
house. 



THE CALIFORNIA, 361 

There is a ladies' waiting-room which is strictly re- 
served for ladies ; there is a ladies' billiard-room, as 
well as one for gentlemen ; there is a banqueting-room 
for public dinners at the top of the house, and at the 
bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a 
stock of choice wines valued at twenty thousand dol- 
lars. 

The European plan is gaining in popularity in this 
country. When you proceed to write your name on 
the register at the Palace Hotel the clerk asks, ''Euro- 
pean or American plan?" At the California no such 
question is propounded ; it is kept entirely on the 
European plan. 

But they have a restaurant which is a feature, if not 
the feature of the house. It measures 1 20 x 30 feet, it 
has tiled floor, mirrored walls, beautifully decorated 
ceilings and countless electric lamps. During the din- 
ner hour a band, stationed in a half-hidden gallery at 
the end of the restaurant, performs music that is prop- 
erly called pleasing — light selections which suggest 
good cheer, and which no doubt aid digestion. The 
restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the 
interior, and such is its popularity that it is patronized 
by many people who are not otherwise guests of the 
house. 

It is equal in style of service to any cafe I know of — 
to the Cafe Savarin or the Brunswick in New York ; in 
fact, the manager, A. F. Kinzler, is a son of Francis 
Kinzler of the Brunswick. 

The question of moustached waiters was easily set- 
tled at the California. They are skilled and experienced 
French and Swiss waiters, and there was no demur to 
the order, shave the upper lip. 



SALT LAKE CITY. 



On the last Sunday of September 1890, 1 was one among 
the five thousand people who enjoyed the masterly elo- 
quence of Spurgeon at his Tabernacle in London ; to- 
day, Monday, I was in the Mormon Tabernacle, where a 
conference was being held, and in which w^ere gathered 
as many people as the great building would hold, — 
seated and standing, twelve thousand. 

Several Mormon elders held forth, but what they said 
did not particularly interest me. It was, for the most 
part, a defense of their form of "religion," and they 
claimed they had a right, in this free country, to teach 
and practice their peculiar doctrine. 

The acoustic properties of this great edifice are excel- 
lent ; I tested them in different parts of the house, and 
heard almost every word that was said by the several 
speakers. Each spoke but for a short time, ten or fif- 
teen minutes. 

The most interesting 23art of Monday's ** session" to 
my mind was the musical part, a chorus of two hundred 
and fifty male and female voices singing to the rich and 
powerful tones of what is claimed to be the largest organ 
but one in the world. 

A strange feature of the assemblage was the great 
number of young children and babes in arms ; the crowd 
of baby carriages in the halls and entrances being very 
noticeable. 

The exterior of the Tabernacle, from its oval shape, 
is often likened to half an egg bisected lengthwise ; 

262 



SALT LAKE CITY, 263 

to me it looks like a tortoise, with its low curved 
roof and its remarkably short pillars, only a few feet 
apart. 

But it is a mammoth tortoise, 250 x 150 feet, with not a 
column nor a pillar to obstruct the view — the largest span 
of unsupported wooden roof in the world. 

The Temple in Salt Lake City, the corner-stone of 
which was laid on the twelfth of April, 1853, is, like 
the municipal buildings in Philadelphia, the City Hall 
in San Francisco and the Cathedral in Cologne, still 
unfinished, although $3,500,000 has been expended in 
its construction so far. The Temple's dimensions are 
200 X 100 feet. 

It is built entirely of granite. The towers are beau- 
tiful. When completed they will be 200 feet high. 
A marble slab 12x3 feet is inserted in the centre 
tower. Upon that slab appears this inscription in gold 
letters: 

" Holiness to the Lord, the house of the Lord. Built 
by the Church of Jesus Christ, of latter-day saints. 
Commenced April 6, 1853. Completed" — space is left 
under the word "completed" in which to insert the 
date, but that space may not be filled during the next 
quarter of a century. 

The first blocks of granite for the building were 
hauled from the quarries, a distance of twenty miles, 
by oxen, but for many years past the granite has been 
brought to the city by a railroad planned originally by 
Mormons. 

Salt Lake, on account of its unpaved streets, must be 
miserable as a place of residence. In wet weather the 
mud in the streets is from six inches to two feet deep, 
and in dry weather the dust is intolerable. It is probably 
not quite so bad in these respects as Key West, Florida, 
but it is always disagreeable enough. Yet the city is 
well laid out ; all the streets are over one hundred feet 
wide ; there is a good system of electric street-cars, and 



364 SALT LAKE CITY. 

there are many fine granite and brick business blocks. 
Salt Lake has an evident air of prosperity. Its popula- 
tion has more than doubled in the past ten years. In 
1880 it was 20,000 ; in 1890 45,000. 

Brigham street, the Fifth avenue of Salt Lake, con- 
tains not a few private residences of which any city 
might be proud. 

The leading hotel is "The Templeton," owned by a 
company of which D. C. Young is president. The man- 
ager of the hotel is Alonzo Young. The president and 
the manager are both sons of Brigham Young, but are 
half brothers only. Brigham sleeps with a couple of 
his wives in a cemetery a few hundred feet from the 
hotel. 

The Templeton is new and substantial, but it was not 
erected for a hotel, and it lacks some conveniences which 
you expect to find. It is better adapted for an office 
building, which was its original purpose. 

The dining-room is on the top floor, as is the dining- 
room of the Auditorium in Chicago, and the Vendome 
in New York, and as is the kitchen of the Windsor Hotel 
in London. 

From this room in the Templeton, if you secure a 
choice seat, you get most magnificent views. You are 
surrounded by snow-covered mountains, and to the west 
you see the principal buildings of the city — the Mormon 
Tabernacle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall, all en- 
closed and fenced within a ten-acre lot. 

We were unfortunate in the time of our visit to Salt 
Lake. The city was crowded on account of the Mormon 
conference and all the hotels were full. At the Temple- 
ton they had an insufficient number of waiters and they 
served saucers of ice cream on warm plates. 

I had occasion to look at the city directory of Salt 
Lake and in turning over the leaves I noticed that there 
are living no less than nine widows of the lamented 
apostle of Mormonism, Brigham Young. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 



Saratoga is lavishly endowed by nature with all the at- 
tributes of a popular resort. Situated at a high altitude, 
among the foot-hills of the Adirondacks, its climate is de- 
lightful, the air pure, dry, and bracing, the evening deli- 
ciously cool, even in the dog-days. A beautiful, rolling 
country, charmingly diversified by hills, valleys, and streams, 
stretches for miles on every side, affording delightful walks 
and drives ; its mineral springs possess wonderful curative 
powers. A prominent physician once told me that he se- 
cured more real substantial benefit from one week in Sara- 
toga than from a month's stay at any other resort, and there 
are hundreds of others ready to endorse this opinion. 

It has been said that nature is responsible for only one- 
half the beauties of Saratoga, the rest being due to man's 
agency ; and this is undoubtedly true. Art has taken hold 
of nature's raw material and transformed it into a veritable 
paradise. Its boulevards and parks are the delight of all 
visitors ; its hotels rank among the largest and best in the 
world. Saratoga has become within a few years the great 
summer capital of America. It is the centre each season of 
the highest social, educational, and political gatherings. 
The broad piazzas of its vast hotels present a panorama of 
the best and most varied types of our leisurely classes, re- 
inforced by thousands of the affluent citizens of other lands. 
The season reaches its height during the race meeting, 
which usually opens the latter part of July, and continues 
through August. During that time the capacity of the ho- 
tels is taxed to the utmost, and the streets and avenues are 
filled with gay throngs of pedestrians, and an apparently 

265 



266 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

endless procession of handsome equipages, presenting a 
brilliant spectacle. 

But Saratoga is not given up altogether to people of fash- 
ion. It is also the resort of a very large number of people 
in moderate circumstances, and for them it offers a wide 
range of accommodations. Boarders are received in scores 
of private families at reasonable prices, and it is not at all 
necessary to go to a hotel, unless you prefer hotel life. Ex- 
cellent accommodations are obtainable at from seven to 
twelve dollars a week. Saratoga also enjoys the advantage 
of an unsurpassed railroad service. During the season the 
New York Central runs nine fast trains at convenient hours, 
daily, each way, between Saratoga and New York, and every 
Saturday afternoon a special limited train takes visitors to 
Saratoga to spend Sunday, returning to New York at an early 
hour Monday morning. All these trains are run on a fast 
schedule, and they are equipped with Wagner drawing-room, 
buffet, and smoking cars of the latest and most luxurious 
pattern. Saratoga is also reached promptly and conveni- 
ently from the West by the same railroad line (New York 
Central) with its many daily fast express trains, via Buffalo, 
Niagara Falls, and Rochester, by direct connections at 
Schenectady and Albany. 

Notwithstanding the many new attractions in the many 
new places of resort, Saratoga Springs, without ^^ booming " 
by the railway people, without large advertising or special 
effort by the hotel-keepers, holds its own not only as ^^ the 
Queen of American Spas," but undoubtedly as the most pop- 
ular s.ummer resort in America, as it has been for a century, 
more or less. 

As to the famous hotels of Saratoga, it may be of interest 
to say that the '^ Union," as it was then called, was opened 
in the year 1800, ''Congress Hall" in 1812, the first 
''States" in 1824. 

The old " States " was built and kept by Judge Marvin, 
who died in 1852. Let me hasten to say that I had not the 
honor of his personal acquaintance, but I have met his 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 267 

brother, the Hon. James M. Marvin, who was his partner 
and who still owns an interest in the property. He has 
reached the ripe age of eighty-three, and is still hale and 
hearty. 

Here is some more history, ancient, if not interesting. 
The old house was destroyed by fire in 1865, the present 
large and fine structure was built in 1873 and opened in the 
following year. The firm of Ainsworth, Tompkins & Perry 
built this house, and they kept it. Ainsworth is dead ; Tomp- 
kins and Perry are very much alive, the firm of proprietors 
to-day being Tompkins, Gage & Perry — Hiram Tompkins, 
William B. Gage, and Dr. J. L. Perry. And here are a 
couple of personal items — Mr. Gage, of the present firm, 
married a daughter of the Hon. James M. Marvin, and Dr. 
Perry, aforesaid, wedded a daughter of Judge Marvin, so the 
*' proprietorship," as it is called, and the ownership also, if 
not somewhat mixed, are both in the family. The father of 
the present Dr. Perry was a physician before him, practis- 
ing in what was then the village of Saratoga. 

I have for years called ^' the States" '' the model hotel of 
the world," and this opinion is shared by many experienced 
hotel men, among them no less a celebrity in the business 
than Jarnes H. Breslin. 

There are many works of art in the broad halls, in the 
magnificent writing-room where men congregate, and in the 
cosey sitting-rooms set apart more especially for the softer 
sex. The collection is large and valuable. 

American hotels may be methodical, but their methods as 
a rule are superior to those of the European houses. In the 
elevator I was ascending late, one night, and I complained 
of the slow rate at which the car was rising. ^Mts pace," I 
remarked to the man in the lift, ^^ reminds me of the lift at 
Charing Cross Hotel,'* and I got this explanation: ^* After 
half-past ten at night, sir, our orders are to go at half-speed; 
full speed might disturb the early sleepers." This of itself 
gives some idea of the careful way in which *' the States" 
is managed. 




LAKE IN THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 



ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 



The Adirondack Mountains occupy an area of about one 
hundred square miles in the north-eastern part of New York 
State, lying in the counties of Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, 
St. Lawrence, Franklin, Clinton, Essex, and Warren. Over 
the greater part of this extensive tract stretch magnificent 
forests of pine, spruce, fir, and hemlock, many of whose re- 
cesses have never been trodden by mortal foot. 

In the cool depths of these forests, and in the valleys be- 
tween the mountains, are hundreds of beautiful lakes, vary- 
ing considerably in size, many of them connected by tiny 
streams just wide enough to permit the passage of a small 
boat — links in the grand system of carries and portages by 
which this entire region is traversed with unerring step by 
the experienced woodsman. 

Their waters of crystal purity teem with all manner of 

2iSS 



ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS, 269 

gamy fish, — brook- and salmon-trout, pickerel, pike, and 
that chief delight of anglers, the black bass. Deer, moose, 
otter, beaver, and all kinds of small game are abundant, 
and by a wise provision of legislation, limiting the quantity 
of game to be taken out of the woods by sportsmen, the 
supply is in no danger of being exhausted. 

Although within a comparatively short distance of New 
York and Brooklyn, until recently the charms of the Adi- 
rondacks were familiar only to a few ardent sportsmen, who 
went there year after year for trout and venison, and who, 
knowing they had '' a good thing," kept very quiet about it. 
But gradually people began to find out what there was away 
up there in the mountains, and the masses learned to love 
the cool forests, the sparkling brooks, and grand lakes, so 
that to-day the region has truly become " The Nation's 
Pleasure Ground and Sanitarium." Hotels have sprung up 
in all directions, and the accommodations and rates for en- 
tertainment are sufficiently varied to suit all tastes and all 
pocket-books. 

The railroads, of course, especially the New York Cen- 
tral, have been the prime factors in this development, and 
now, with the completion of Dr. Webb's road, the new Adi- 
rondack & St. Lawrence Line, extending for nearly two hun- 
dred miles through the very heart of the wilderness, every 
resort or camping-place of consequence is rendered easily 
accessible. 

There are many gateways or entrances to the North Woods, 
and it would take a good sized volume to describe them all 
in detail, but the principle ones are, viz. : 

\'ia Herkimer and the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Line 
to Fulton Chain, Raquette Lakes, Paul Smith's, Saranac 
and Tupper Lakes. 

Via Saratoga and the Adirondack Railroad to Luzerne and 
North Creek. 

Via Lake Champlain and Westport to Au Sable Chasm, 
Elizabethtown, and Keene Valley. 

The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is, of 



270 ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 

course, the initial line ; all routes to the Adirondacks lead 
over it. The average cost of an excursion ticket to the dif- 
ferent prominent resorts is from $10.00 to $15.00. Warm 
clothing should be taken, but as little of it as possible, es- 
pecially if you contemplate camping out. Wear good, stout, 
broad-soled shoes, not boots, and do not have hob-nails in 
them, as they ruin a boat. For fishing it will be necessary 
to have a strong fly rod, say eight ounces, about ten or ten 
and a half feet long, with plain click reel, filled with thirty- 
five or forty yards of water-proof silk line ; half a dozen stout 
leaders, and two or three dozen flies on No. 6 or 8 sproat. 
Take bait hooks, and a few gangs for lake trout trolling. 

Thus equipped, enter the woods, leaving behind all 
thoughts of shop or office, all considerations of the hum- 
drum affairs of ordinary, every-day life, and give yourself 
unreservedly to the delights of fishing and exploring. My 
word for it, you will emerge at the end of your vacation with 
improved lungs, improved health generally, and a fresh 
stock of energy. 



THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 



The very name, Thousand Islands, conjures up visions of 
romantic novelty and loveliness, and this is one of the very 
few instances where ^^ fancy does not beggar facts and 
throw over them the rags of disappointment." 

The name is in some respects a misnomer, for there are 
nearly two thousand of these islands altogether, ranging in 
size from a surface a few yards in extent to an area of sev- 
eral acres. 

They are scattered in profusion for a distance of forty 
miles, between Cape Vincent and Morristown. As a sum- 
mer resort, the region of the St. Lawrence is rapidly assum- 
ing that distinction in popular estimation to which superior 
advantages justly entitle it. The climate is dry, cool, and 
refreshing, the surroundings picturesque, the facilities for 
boating unexcelled ; while to the enthusiastic fisherman it 
is a veritable Paradise, where bass and pickerel and the 
mighty muskallonge roam in countless numbers. 

The usual mode of travelling here is, of course, by boat; 
consequently a good deal of attention has been paid to 
model and build, and the St. Lawrence skiffs have become 
world-renowned. Boat-building on the river has become an 
established industry, forming the principal winter occupa- 
tion of most of the guides. As the materials cost them lit- 
tle and the boats command good prices, they make a hand- 
some profit on every sale. 

The more luxurious of these boats are carpeted, have 
nickel and brass fittings, and are polished like a piano. 
They are beautiful to the eye and lack nothing in comfort- 
able appointments. 

The St. Lawrence guides are not only expert sailors, but 

271 



272 



THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, 



good cooks as well, and it is astonishing what an excellent 
meal they will get up with the limited means at command. 
In fact, I think an island dinner is one of the most enjoyable 
features of a trip to the St. Lawrence. 

The principal points of resort among the islands are Clay- 
ton, the railroad terminus ; Round Island, the site of the 
Frontenac Hotel ; Thousand Island Park, the extensive 
camp-meeting resort of the Methodists ; Central Park (Cot- 
tage Hotel) and Alexandria Bay, where are located the 
famous Crossmon House and the Thousand Island House. 
Alexandria Bay, from its central position in the very heart 
of the Thousand Island region, and from the vast improve- 
ments that have sprung up as if by magic within the past 
five years, both on the islands and in the mainland, has 
achieved a wide reputation. 

The Thousand Islands probably enjoys the best train ser- 
vice of any resort of equal prominence in the world. Dur- 
ing the season the New York Central runs several through 
fast trains daily between New York and Clayton, and last 
year a special car was attached to its lightning Empire 
State Express for the accommodation of travellers over this 
route. 



'-^"^>> .. 7|, 








NIAGARA FALLS FROM J'ROSFKCT POINT, 



NIAGARA FALLS. 



A FAMOUS writer has said, ^' No place in the civilized 
world offers such attractions as Niagara, and yet they can 
never be fully known except to those who see them, from 
the utter impossibility of describing such scenes. When 
motion can be expressed by color, then, and only then, can 
Niagara be described." 

My first visit to Niagara was made in my teens, when, I 
do not hesitate now to admit, I could not appreciate its 
wondrous beauty. I saw nothing but a great lot of water 
rushing madly over the precipice, and, like the Irishman, I 
said to myself, ' ' What's to hinder it ? " But I have been 
there many times since, and each visit has only increased 
my sense of the surpassing grandeur and majesty of the 
scene. 

The great features of Niagara you will find ever the same, 
but their individual expression is constantly changing. 
With every season, with every sunbeam or passing cloud, 
they assume a different appearance, and evoke new admira- 
tion. 

The great cataract, supposed by many to be the single 
absorbing feature of Niagara, is really only one of a multi- 
tude of attractions. '*It's tossing rapids, its milk-white 
waves, its rainbow-tinted spray in the opal light of morning, 
the crimson and gold of the sunset and under the mysteri- 
ous glamour of the moon," possess for me equal powers of 
fascination. 

When Father Hennepin first saw Niagara Falls, he dis- 
covered the greatest natural wonder in the world, and those 
early pioneers who started a settlement here in the faith 
that this spot was susceptible of expansion into prominence 

278 



274 NIAGARA FALLS. 

and popularity as a resort for tourists, displayed no aston- 
ishing foresight, but simply exercised the most ordinary 
faculty of common sense ; for how could so healthful and 
beautiful a place, encompassing within its borders the most 
sublime masterpiece of the Creator's handiwork, lack appre- 
ciation. 

The village of Niagara is most charming in many ways 
and undoubtedly healthful. The air is invigorating ; the 
atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water 
and the spray, is kept pure and fresh ; good roads extend 
in every direction, and hotel accommodations are ample and 
excellent. In order to ^^do the Falls" thoroughly, you 
should stay here at least a week, although perseverance and 
a stout pair of legs can get over a good deal of the ground 
in less time. The chief points of interest, aside from the 
Falls themselves, are Luna and Goat Islands, the Three 
Sister Islands, the Rapids, the Whirlpool, and the Cave of 
the Winds. The last named is an opening directly behind 
the great American Fall. The cave is one hundred and fifty 
feet wide, one hundred feet high, and is approached by a lit- 
tle bridge, two feet wide, over which the visitor must pass. 
This is a little terrifying at first, but the guide is very posi- 
tive in his assurances that this seemingly frail structure is 
perfectly safe, being supported by strong stays firmly im- 
bedded in the rocks on which it is built. So fascinating is 
this trip, that a visit to Niagara is incomplete without it. 

There is also the run down to Lewiston on one of the ob- 
servation trains of the New York Central— a trip of seven 
miles along shelving rock, overlooking the wonderful gorge 
through which the Niagara pushes its way onward to Lake 
Ontario, the foaming Rapids and the angry Whirlpool. Prob- 
ably no trip in the world of equal length compares with this 
for grandeur of scenery. Arrived at Lewiston, you may, if 
you please, continue your trip across the lake to Toronto, a 
splendid line of twin-screw Clyde-built steamers plying be- 
tween the two points. 



ATLANTIC CITY. 



No foreigner should visit these shores without spending 
at least a day or two at some of our typical summer or 
winter resorts, in season. He will find their characteristics 
totally different to any in his own land, and he may be able 
to gain by contact with the people whom he may meet at 
these resorts, an idea of our social peculiarities. Atlantic 
City is a typical American summer resort, and incidentally 
its peculiar advantages as to climate and soil have given 
it fame as a late winter and early spring retreat. It is 
not like Brighton, Margate, Bournemouth, Torquay, Trou- 
ville, Scheveningen, nor any other foreign seaside resort, but 
it has a combination of advantages peculiar to itself. At- 
lantic City is on the New Jersey coast, one hundred miles dis- 
tant from New York, and is reached in ninety minutes from 
Philadelphia. It is a city in reality as well as in name, 
built on an island ten miles long, and surrounded by the 
ocean — thus isolated, as by quarantine, from the approach 
of diseases that are bred from germs and microbes. This, 
together with the dryness of the soil and the excellent 
hygienic regulations, preserves Atlantic City from malaria 
and makes it a haven of rest or recreation. 

How do visitors spend their time ? Much as they please, 
for the ^' City by the Sea " offers an embarrassment of sum- 
mer pastimes and pleasures. Bathing, perhaps, is the chief 
recreation. The beach for bathing is unsurpassed, being 
not inferior to Pablo Beach, near Jacksonville, Florida. 
The sea offers other pleasures. Fleets of sail-boats, 
manned by ''sea dogs," take you for a sail on the smooth 
waters of the inlet or outside upon the open sea. All boats 
are provided with fishing tackle ; famous fishing-grounds 

275 



276 ATLANTIC CITY. 

are near by, and the veriest tyro in the gentle art may 
quickly fill his basket. When the day is done, the great 
hotels are ablaze with lights and brilliant with the evening 
costumes of the fair guests. All the chief hotels provide 
good orchestral music, and, under the stimulation of the 
invigorating atmosphere of the place, the dance is entered 
upon with zest. 

An attractive feature of Atlantic City is the ^' board 
walk," twenty-four feet wide, extending along the edge 
of the sea for four miles. This is the popular promenade 
by day or night. The drives are good, either along the 
smooth, hard sands, or through the broad streets of the 
city, or among the pines of the mainland. The climate 
and temperature, both in spring and summer, are delightful 
and equable. The water, introduced from fresh springs of 
the mainland as well as from Artesian wells, is abundant 
and pure. The social attractions of Atlantic City add to 
the charm of the place at all seasons. In the spring and 
early summer, representatives of the best society of New 
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Chicago, and 
other cities east and west, may be found in the large 
hotels, and many of the habitues have handsome cottages 
of their own. The individual attractions of the large 
number of excellent hotels at Atlantic City are fully 
enumerated in the summer resort guide, near the end of 
this volume. Nowhere, for first-class accommodations, are 
hotel rates so moderate as in Atlantic City, except possibly 
in Southern California. A few houses may be instanced : 
The Brighton, the Traymore, Haddon Hall, the Shelburne, 
and the Dennis. These hotels, by the way, are open the year 
round. The proprietors of the Hotel Brighton have recently 
completed the Brighton ^* Casino," on the Brighton lawns, 
facing the ocean. It is a handsome three-story building 
of picturesque architectural design. It contains luxuriously 
appointed sun parlors, reading and smoking rooms, a hand- 
some concert and ball room, hot and cold sea-baths, a 
swimming pool of white marble, bowling alley, and other 



ATLANTIC CITY. 277 

attractive features. The cost is $60,000, and it will be one 
of the most beautiful structures on the coast. 

F'ortunately for the convenience and comfort of its 
habitues and visitors, Atlantic City is located on one of 
the branch lines of the Pennsylvania Railroad. In fact, 
there are two distinct lines operated by the Pennsylvania 
Railroad from Philadelphia to Atlantic City. These roads 
are built and maintained in that excellent condition which 
characterizes all the lines of this great corporation. They 
are so operated, as regards express trains, as to secure the 
advantages of a double-tracked line, and, with the frequent 
fast trains which ply between the Quaker City and its sea- 
side suburb, this arrangement makes transportation not 
only prompt and easy, but perfectly safe. With all the 
principal trains from west and south, regular connection 
is made at Philadelphia for Atlantic City. The through 
car arrangements of the Pennsylvania Railroad are so 
comprehensive, that one can travel from the most distant 
points to Atlantic City with but one change of cars. From 
New England and points north and west of New York City, 
the facilities are equally good. The fast express from New- 
York, established several years ago, runs direct, without 
change, from Jersey City to Atlantic City in three and one- 
half hours. It leaves New York in the early afternoon, 
after the trains from the north, east, and west have all 
arrived, and it reaches Atlantic City in ample time for 
dinner or tea. This train is made up of Pullman buffet, • 
parlor cars, and passenger coaches. A similar train leaves 
Atlantic City in the morning, and arrives in New York be- 
fore luncheon. 



CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 



Chicago is best reached from New York by the Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad or the New York Central and Hudson 
River Railroad. Both are popular routes and both com- 
panies run frequent fast trains. The service of trains on 
each line includes a ^Mimited,'* composed entirely of ves- 
tibuled cars, embodying the luxuries and appointments 
of a first-class hotel. These trains make the journey in 
twenty-four hours ; the regular trains take about six hours 
longer. The fare by both roads is the same. Choice of 
route must depend largely upon fancy. The Pennsylvania 
road passes around Horse Shoe Bend, a picturesque wonder 
of Allegheny mountain scenery ; the New York Central 
route takes the passenger within view of Niagara Falls. 
The Erie road also runs trains to Chicago, not so frequently 
nor perhaps at such great speed, but the fare is a trifle less. 

Chicago is a few miles less than a thousand from New 
York by rail. It is on the south-western shore of Lake 
Michigan, and lies on its curving banks, along which it 
extends for about twenty miles. It is not a particularly 
attractive city, because of the appreciable gloom cast by the 
smoke from the factories in the suburbs. From this smoke 
small particles of carbon — '' smuts" — fall continually in an 
invisible shower, sifting through the window crevices and 
soihng furniture, carpets, clothing, and person. The city 
has some magnificent buildings and some remarkably tall 
ones, and many fine thoroughfares. The characteristic of 
the people is activity. In Western parlance they are 
*' hustlers." 

The Chicago River, which is formed by the confluence 
of two branches, one flowing from the north-west, the other 

278 



CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 279 

from the south, runs, after the junction of these branches, 
through the city eastward for about half a mile to the lake. 
These streams are spanned by more than fifty swinging 
bridges, and are tunnelled for the passage of cable cars and 
traffic. The ''west," the ''north side," and the "south 
side " are terms used in locating streets or houses, and they 
refer to directions from this stream. 

The World's Fair grounds are on the lake shore, about 
five miles southward from the heart of the city. They are 
easily accessible by the Illinois Central Railroad which has 
a convenient terminus and frequent way-stations ; by the 
elevated railroad, which terminates at Congress Street, a step 
from the Auditorium Hotel ; and by the Wabash and 
Cottage Grove cable cars — the latter route, which is the 
longest, not occupying over half an hour, say, from the 
Post Office. The Fair will open on May ist, and remain 
open until the last of October. Its magnitude and beauty 
must be seen to be properly conceived. 

By the Pennsylvania road you will arrive at the Union 
Depot, Adams Street ; via the New York Central you will 
arrive at the Michigan Central Depot at Twelfth Street, or 
at the Lake Shore Depot, Van Buren Street. These depots 
are ten minutes or less from the busiest part of the city, and 
they are within easy walking distance of the chief hotels. 
Reliable transfer companies will convey you and your bag- 
gage to any hotel at a fixed charge. Hackmen and cabmen, 
as usual, will charge what they can get, although the legal 
rate for cabs is twenty-five cents per mile. 

Michigan Avenue Boulevard is the finest thoroughfare. 
No car tracks nor heavy traffic are permitted. It begins on 
the lake front and runs along its border until the shore 
curves away. At the lower end are substantial business 
structures and some fine hotels, notably the Auditorium just 
above Van Buren Street, at which street is a station of the 
Illinois Central Railroad, whence the guest of the hotels of 
the " down-town" district would start for the Fair. " Down- 
town " in Chicago is the business portion of the' city, 



280 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 

cantaining some of the chief hotels, the Post Office, banks, 
clubs, theatres, and large retail shops. Chicago streets are 
laid for the most part at right angles and offer no labyrin- 
thine problems. Next parallel to Michigan Avenue is State 
Street, then Wabash Avenue, Dearborn and Clark, all broad 
and busy streets, traversed by cable cars which run rapidly. 

The purpose of this chapter is to offer suggestions to the 
stranger which will guide if not direct him in the choice of 
an abiding place during his stay in the "• Windy City.'* 
The hotels mentioned here, it may be safely said, represent 
each the best of its kind. It is to be noted of them, in 
general, that they all have the modern improvements unless 
otherwise stated— electric lights, hot and cold running water, 
excellent ventilation, and praiseworthy sanitation of plumb- 
ing, as well as good domestic service. Those hotels only 
have been selected which may be commended : hotels to be 
avoided in Chicago, as elsewhere, are too numerous to men- 
tion. Chicago hotel rates are not high, but the visitor 
must expect to pay more during the continuance of the 
Fair. Where possible, rates for the Fair period have been 
obtained. It is safe to say that the hotels enumerated here, 
being first-class houses, will not fleece the visitor. I am 
credibly informed that so far as possible regular rates will 
be adhered to. At all events, applications and agreements 
as to rates may be made in advance. 

The 'Mown-town " hotels, to be mentioned in detail fur- 
ther on, are the Auditorium, Palmer House, Richelieu, Vic- 
toria, Wellington, and Great Northern — all within ten 
minutes' walk of each other, and therefore all having about 
the same advantages of location. They receive a large share 
of patronage from commercial travellers. This district cor- 
responds to Fourteenth Street, Twenty-third Street, and 
Forty-second Street, of New York. Another group of hotels 
is composed of the Virginia, the Lakota, the Metropole, and 
the Lexington, located in quiet and fashionable residential 
portions of the city. They compare in character with the 
Windsor, Brunswick, Plaza, and Logerot hotels of New York, 



CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 281 

and not one of them is more than fifteen minutes from the 
Post Office and Board of Trade, theatres, etc. 

The third group of hotels that call for consideration are at 
or near the Fair grounds. Among the best of them is the 
Chicago Beach, the Renfost, and the Hyde Park. They are 
not the World's Fair hotels which have become notorious 
for their flimsy construction. They are some distance from 
down-town, but right in the line of growth of the choice resi- 
dence streets. By heeding the above suggestions, it is be- 
lieved that the visitor will be able to decide whither to direct 
his steps to procure *^ bed and board," without a shade of 
regret that he did not go ^^ somewhere else." Finally, it is 
suggested to procure a guide to Chicago containing a good 
map; Rand, McNally & Co.'s ^' Handy Guide" may be 
recommended. 

The Lakota. — If you are used to the luxuries and refine- 
ments of life, you will miss them at many of the hotels at 
which you are obliged to put up. With this expectation, 
you will be agreeably surprised if you should happen to 
select the Lakota, Chicago's newest select hotel. It is on 
Michigan Avenue Boulevard, the pride of Chicago streets, 
through which no trucks are allowed to pass, and no car- 
tracks are laid. It stands at the corner of Thirtieth Street ; 
the elevated railroad station is at Thirty-first Street, and 
almost within hail are the cable cars, bringing the life of 
the city, its shops, banks, theatres, and clubs, within fifteen 
minutes' ride. In respect of location, the Lakota does not 
yield to any hotel in the city. The locality is ultra-fashion- 
able, this portion of the boulevard containing the luxurious 
homes of Chicago's famous multi-millionnaires. The Lakota 
was only recently opened, but it was two years a-building 
It is constructed of steel and stone, absolutely fire-proof, and 
architecturally a credit to the city. It embodies the latest 
achievements and luxuries that the age offers to travellers. 
The Lakota is ten stories high and has three hundred rooms, 
the largest hotel apartments in Chicago, suitably arranged 



282 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 

for rental en suite or singly. The building is so constructed 
that each room, and even every bath-room, opens on the 
street. In furnishing and decoration the Lakota is in per- 
fect harmony with the aristocratic homes that surround it. 
The main floor is finished in pure marble, massive and beau- 
tifully carved, and the apartments are finished in five different 
kinds of cabinet woods, not varnished, but piano-polished. 
Among the notable features of this hotel are its cuisine and 
its service — a *^ club " service. The kitchen itself would 
commend the Lakota to the favor of fastidious people. All 
in all, this hotel will easily take rank with the Windsor 
Hotel, New York, which should be considered a high com- 
pliment. The carpets are Bigelow Wiltons, from Sloane's ; 
the wall papers are rich and harmonious, to which the furni- 
ture corresponds ; Gorham silverware and Haviland china 
are used ; the linen was woven to order in France. Not- 
withstanding this luxury, the rates are moderate : American 
plan, from $5 per day ; European plan, rooms from $2 per 
day; meals in the restaurant, a la carte, or at $17.50 by the 
week. The manager, Mr. James R. Keenan, formerly man- 
aged the Shoreham, in Washington, whose patronage was 
drawn from the aristocratic foreign residents of that city and 
from the best society in New York and other cities. 



The Virginia. — Also removed from the noise and bustle 
of the business part of the city, and in a district of private 
residences, but still within ten minutes' ride of the centres. 
It was erected and is owned by Leander J. McCormick, a 
wealthy Chicagoan, who destined it for a fashionable apart- 
ment house, which idea the location would have warranted, 
but it was opened in 1891 as a hotel instead. The Virginia 
is at Rush and Ohio Streets, across the river, but readily ac- 
cessible to the Fair or to the Post Office. The building is 
ten stories high, absolutely fire-proof, and admirably con- 
structed for disposition into suites or single rooms. The 
Virginia is conducted solely upon the American plan ; rates 



CHICyiGO AND ITS HOTELS, 283 

from $4 per day. It has few transient patrons ; most of its 
guests are habitues, refined people of means. The Virginia 
is luxuriously appointed, and is embellished with many val- 
uable works of art. The cuisine is a feature. It has other 
features not found at all hotels, in its manner of caring for 
the petty comforts of guests. Address, Virginia Hotel Co., 
J. P. Whedon, manager. 



The Auditorium.— The largest hotel in Chicago, and 
one of the famous hotels of the country. The title embraces 
really two hotels under one management. The first is the 
original structure known under that name, an absolutely 
fire-proof building covering one and a half acres, standing on 
Michigan Avenue, Wabash Avenue, and Congress Street, 
facing the lake. The other building was recently completed, 
and is on the opposite corner of Michigan Avenue. It is of 
similar architecture, and they are nearly of a size. A tunnel 
connects them. The older house is conducted on the Euro- 
pean plan, $2 to $5 per day ; the newer on the American 
plan. In both together there are nearly one thousand 
rooms. The dining-room of the main house, on the tenth 
floor, affords extended views of the lake and a stretch of 
Chicago's grand boulevard, Michigan Avenue, as far as the 
eye can reach. Everything about the Auditorium is on a 
sumptuous scale, yet the prices are not higher than at other 
hotels of a corresponding class. The Auditorium is one of 
the features of Chicago, and it affords Chicagoans a conven- 
ient '^ point of departure." The top of the Auditorium tower 
is two hundred and seventy feet above the lake. The two 
Auditorium buildings are controlled by separate companies, 
but the one is largely interested in the other, and Mr. R. 
H. Southgate manages both houses. 



The Richelieu.— The Richelieu is a refined and home- 
like hotel. It is a novelty in hotels for Chicago, but not for 



^84 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 

New York, where we have the Sherman Square, the Hotel 
de Logerot, and other hotels of the class. The Richelieu 
enjoys the same advantages of location as the Auditorium 
and the Victoria — on Michigan Avenue, fronting the lake. 
It is conducted entirely upon the European plan, and its 
cuisine and wines are famous. There are one hundred and 
thirty-nine rooms, ranging in price from $2 per day to $15 
for parlor, two bedrooms, and bath. The house is lighted by 
electricity throughout and has an elevator. The Richelieu 
is a select house in the full sense of the word, and is 
especially notable for the courtesy of its proprietor, as well 
as for the excellence of his table and his wines. 



The Metropole.— One of the best hotels in Chicago. 
It is located on the Michigan Boulevard at Twenty-third 
Street, among the fashionable private residences ; a step from 
the elevated railroad station, and one block from the Wabash 
Avenue cable cars, by which the Fair grounds or the business 
and shopping centres are easily and quickly reached. It is 
a large fire-proof building of brown stone, seven stories 
high, and contains about three hundred rooms. The house 
is so built, with recessed fagades, that the light of day 
enters directly every room. The rooms are arranged singly 
or may be thrown into suites. The Metropole is conducted 
upon both the American and European plans ; from $3 per 
day by the former — special rates for a protracted stay. In 
furnishing, decorations, and appointments, the Metropole is 
luxurious, tasteful, and artistic. Messrs. Miller & Meserve, 
managers. 

The Palmer House. — The Palmer House is one of the 
best known hotels in the United States, and its reputation 
is admirably sustained. It corresponds in Chicago to the 
famous Astor House in New York. It is owned by Potter 
Palmer, the millionnaire, and it is an object of great pride 
with him to maintain its high character. The Palmer House 



CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 285 

occupies the larger part of the block bounded by Wabash 
Avenue, Monroe Street, Adams Street, and State Street, right 
in the busy heart of Chicago, convenient and accessible to 
everywhere. Tourists of the best class, families, and com- 
mercial travellers, for whom special apartments are set 
aside, seek the Palmer House. One portion of the house is 
devoted entirely to families who have lived there for years. 
The hotel contains seven hundred and fifty rooms. It is 
conducted upon both the American and European plans ; 
rates by the former, from $3 per day. Single rooms may be 
had from $1 per day. The rooms are all comfortably, 
although not luxuriously, furnished. An excellent restaurant, 
with moderate tariff, is attached to the house. Special 
announcement is made that rates during the Fair period 
will not be advanced, but two guests occupying the same 
room will be expected to pay each the regular price of the 
room. The stranger may rely upon courteous treatment 
and consideration. The Palmer House is not modern, but 
it is provided with all the latest appointments, with the 
exception of electric lights. There is an air of plainness 
and honesty about the Palmer House that at once commends 
it. The walls are hung with some notable paintings. 



The Lexington Hotel. — On Michigan Boulevard at 
Twenty-second Street, one block below the Metropole, and 
having the same accessibility. It was opened in the fall of 
1892, and it is advertised as being *^ absolutely fire-proof." 
It has five hundred rooms, and is conducted upon both the 
American and European plans, the management having a 
preference for the former. Rates from $4 per day. For 
the Fair period higher prices will be charged. The rooms 
are arranged en suite, forming an apartment with a small 
private hallway, but they may be rented singly. The 
Lexington is intended for people of means and good taste. 
The circular of the hotel speaks of it as ^' the nearest 
strictly first-class hotel to the Fair grounds ; " but this is a 



286 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 

mistake — the Lakota is nearer to the Fair grounds. The 
lessee of the Lexington, E. A. Bacheldor, is reputed to be 
rich, and money has not been stinted to make the house 
desirable for visitors. Restaurant and caf^ are attached to 
the house. 

The Wellington is a '' down-town " hotel of excellent 
report, at the corner of Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street, 
conducted on the European plan, with first-class restaurants 
attached. Rates from $2 per day. It is an agreeable, quiet 
house, in the busy district. Proprietors, Gage Hotel Co.; 
Albert S. Gage, president and manager. — The Victoria 
enjoys excellent patronage. It is near the Auditorium, on 
Michigan Avenue at Van Buren Street. American plan only ; 
rates from $3 per day. A family hotel, in a choice location. 
Proprietor, J. M. Lee ; associate and manager, E. A. Whip- 
ple. — The Great Northern Fire-proof Hotel is op- 
posite the Post Office, fronting on Dearborn Street. Strictly 
European plan ; rooms from $3 per day. Its three restau- 
rants are a feature. A fourteen-story building, modern in 
all of its appointments and beautiful in many. Caters 
largely to a business patronage, but has many elaborately 
furnished suites. Proprietors, Alvin Hulbert and Wm. S. 
Eden.— The Grand Pacific, on the opposite side of the 
Post Office, is a house for commercial men and transient 
guests. American plan only ; from $4 per day. A plain, 
business-like hotel of large size and good repute. 



Near the Fair Grounds. — The remaining hotels to be 
mentioned here are not " World's Fair hotels," as a class 
of more or less temporary structures is called, but hotels of 
the first class, having locations near the Exposition grounds. 
Members of the celebrated Leland family of hotel-keepers 
manage some of the best, and that name should be of itself 
sufficient recommendation. Warren F. Leland, who has had 
long experience as a hotel proprietor in Chicago, will con- 



CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 287 

duct the Chicago Beach Hotel, a new, attractive and 
substantial brick building, situated directly on the lake 
shore, at Fifty-first Street Boulevard, a stone's throw from 
the Illinois Central Railroad. All outside rooms. American 
and European plans ; by the former, $5 per day and up- 
ward. — The Renfost is a beautiful, permanent structure 
of nearly five hundred rooms, located on Cottage Grove Ave- 
nue, facing Washington Park. It is conducted by Lewis Le- 
land, formerly of the Sturtevant House, New York, for a 
select class of tourists and families. — Warren Leland, Jr., of 
Long Branch fame, and the present popular manager of the 
Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, Ga., has the Ingram Hotel, on 
Sixtieth Street, facing the entrance to the Fair grounds. It 
has distinct advantages of location, and many features and 
appointments desirable in a hotel for tourists and strangers. 
It is conducted upon the European plan, with the best cui- 
sine and service attainable. Rates for single rooms, from $2 
per day; double rooms, from $3. — Charles E. Leland, who 
for many years kept the Clarendon, at Saratoga, manages 
The World's Inn, at Sixtieth Street and Madison Avenue, 
near the Fair grounds. — The Hyde Park Hotel, on Fifty- 
first Street Boulevard and Lake Avenue, is not far from the 
Chicago Beach Hotel. It was huilt before the Fair was pro- 
posed, and it is patronized by families and permanent guests. 
American plan only, except during the Fair period. Rates, 
$3 and upward ; higher rates during the Exposition. A 
quiet, well-conducted family hotel. Proprietors, Messrs. 
Charles F. Milligan & Co. 



RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 



It is impossible for the young people of this generation to 
fully appreciate the luxury of the age in which they are liv- 
ing. What wonderful strides in facilities for railway travel- 
ling, for example, have been made within the past five and 
twenty years, or say, even, within the last decade ! 

I begin to fear that I am no longer young. That I am 
growing reminiscent is of itself proof that I am growing old, 
but I cannot help recalling the discomforts of railway travel- 
ling which existed before the existence of a Pullman sleeper 
or a Wagner drawing-room car, any more than I can forget 
a through trip which I once made froni Cleveland to New 
York when I was '^ in my teens." 

Some of the compartments in a first-class English railway 
carriage are cosey and comfortable enough for a short jour- 
ney, but one of the most luxurious cars I ever travelled in 
was a new Wagner palace car which was attached, one day 
last summer, to '' the 3.30 Saratoga Express," on the New 
York Central Railway ; and I say this after having tried 
'' the Oriental Express " between Paris and Vienna, the Pull- 
man between Milan and Basle, and the celebrated ^'Flying 
Scotchman " between London and Edinburgh. This Wag- 
ner was as perfect in its way for day travel, as are the Pull- 
man cars of the justly famed *^ Florida Special" (vestibuled 
train) of the Pennsylvania Railroad for night or through 
travel, and this is saying a very great deal. 

The car under notice was also vestibuled. It was strongly 
and stoutly built, and was set on spiral springs which carried 
their great burden with the greatest ease, allowing the car 
to swing freely with a pleasant motion and little noise. The 
interior woodwork was of polished mahogany, the floor car- 

288 



^RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA, 289 

peted with Wilton, and the upper sides and ceiHng tastefully, 
not gaudily, decorated. There is no sitting close together, 
as in the cars abroad ; each passenger has a separate chair. 
It is a revolving arm-chair, plush covered, and over the back 
of the chair there is a linen **tidy," — a clean tidy. The 
chairs — no, the seats — on ^^ the other side " are also covered, 
but the covers are often anything but spotless. How often 
they are removed it is not easy to tell; all the ^^ tidies " in 
a Wagner car are whipped off every day. 

There are brass hooks for hats and wraps, instead of 
racks, and a low shelf which may be used for umbrellas or 
canes. Each passenger has a foot-stool, and I am sorry to 
add that the company find it necessary to furnish to each 
.passenger a cuspadore. It shines like new silver, to be 
sure, but still the suggestion is not a pleasant one, and it is 
a feature to which Americans cannot point with pride. 

The windows are not ten by twelve inches : they measure 
two feet eight inches each way, and the panes are of heavy 
plate glass. To each opening there are double windows, 
for winter service. The shades, for utility, are of dark blue ; 
and above these, for ornament, are old-gold satin-damask 
lambrequins. For ornamentation also there is at either end 
of the car a large mirror with silvered pole, and curtains to 
match the window drapery. 

No knee robes are needed in this country for railway 
travel : Wagner cars are heated by steam. Do you want 
air without dust ? the porter will raise the window and insert 
a wire screen as well as a cinder deflector. Are your hands 
soiled ? step into the lavatory. You won't find there a tiny 
metal basin, but a marble washstand and bowl, and over 
this a tap with ample supply of water, plenty of towels, clean 
comb and brush, etc., iced water at your hand. 

But you need not stir from your seat for a glass of water ; 
touch an electric bell while seated in your chair, and, as if 
by magic, a sable attendant will be at your side with a glass 
of cold water, or something which you may deem more re- 
freshing. Nor need you leave the car for a quiet smoke ; 



290 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 

at one end there is a comfortably furnished smoking-room, 
with all that the title implies. 

The cost of such a car, so the Wagner conductor in- 
formed me, is about fifteen thousand dollars. 

If you require anything more luxurious for day travel than 
one of these new Wagner palace cars, you will have to wait 
until somebody racks his brain to add an additional contriv- 
ance. But you may have to wait until the end of the cen- 
tury. 




SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 
189^. 



INDEX TO CHAPTERS. 



I. — Hudson Highland Range. 

II. — Shawangunk Region. 

HI. — Catskill Region. 

IV. — Otsego Region. 

V. — Central Lakes — Niagara. 

VI. — Saratoga Springs. 

VII. — Lake George Region. 

VIII. — Adirondack Region. 

IX. — Green Mountain Region. 

X. — White Mountains — Maine Lakes. 

XI. — Berkshire Hills — Connecticut Hills. 

XII. — New Jersey Highlands. 

XIII. — Highlands of the Delaware. 

XIV. — Appalachian Region of Pennsylvania, West Virginia 
AND North Carolina. 

XV. — New Jersey Shore — Staten Island. 

XVI.— Long Island. 

XVH. — Connecticut Shore. 

XVIII. — Narragansett Bay, South Massachusetts Shore and 
Islands. 

XIX. — Eastern Shore. 

XX.— The West. 



392 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

I. 

HUDSON HIGHLAND RANGE. 



The range of mountains obliquely crossing the Hudson and 
known as the Hudson Highlands, forms part of the great chain 
distinguished as the Blue R-idge in Pennsylvania and the Green 
Mountains in Vermont ; the name may be applied to all that part 
of the chain which falls within the State of New York. The 
Hudson enters the Highlands at Cornwall (fifty-six miles from New 
York), and leaves them at Peekskill (forty-two miles). At about 
two-thirds the distance from Peekskill to Cornwall, on the west 
side, is West Point, famous for its view and as the site of the 
United States Military Academy. Opposite West Point is Garrison 
station, where all trains of the Hudson River road stop, and where 
there is a steam ferry. Cranston's and other places on the west 
bank are reached by the West Shore road (Franklin and West 
Forty-second streets). The Albany morning boats and the Mary 
Powell make landings at West Point, Cornwall and Newburg. — 
Lake Mahopac, the largest of the beautiful lakes of the Highland 
region, is accessible in an hour and a half from New York by 
Golden's Bridge branch of the Harlem railroad, or by the New 
York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Sixth avenue 
elevated road. — Greenwood lake, on the western limit of this region, 
lies partly in New Jersey, at an elevation of seven hundred and fifty 
feet ; reached by the New York and Greenwood Lake railroad (Cham^- 
bers and Twenty- third street ferries). — The hills that border the 
Hudson below the Highlands may be regarded as spurs or foot- 
hills of the mountains ; they are accessible on the east bank by the 
Hudson River railroad (Grand Central Depot), and by the New 
York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Manhattan 
elevated road ; on the west bank by the Northern New Jersey 
(Chambers and West Twenty-third streets), which comes out on the 
river at Piermont (twenty-seven miles), and by the West Shore 
railroad (Franklin and West Forty-second streets), which comes out 
on the river at Haverstraw (thirty- three miles). All the more impor- 
tant places on either bank below the Highlands are touched by 
steam-boats that leave every afternoon (except Sunday) from foot 
of Harrison and West Twenty-second streets. 



GARRLSON— The Highland House.— On a plateau 300 feet 
above and half a mile from Garrison station on the Hudson River rail- 
road ; one and a quarter hours from New York ; connection with 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 293 

West Point by steam ferry ; outluoks and towers on South Redoubt 
Mountains, 800 to 1,000 feet above the river ; lawn of twenty acres 
well shaded ; latest sanitary improvements ; water from mountain 
springs ; lawn tennis ; bowling and billiard rooms ; livery and 
boarding stables ; stage meets all trains ; receives one hundred and 
fifty guests. Open in May. 



WEST POINT — Cranston's. — A station on the West Shore rail- 
road, a short distance below West Point ; a famous hotel situated 
on a bold promontory, commanding a grand river and mountain 
view ; elevator, gas, halls heated by steam, open fire-places in all 
rooms ; baths on all the floors ; four cottages on the grounds luxu- 
riously fitted up ; livery at moderate prices ; boarding stables with 
night watchman ; skilful chef de cuisine and well-disciplined 
waiters. 

CORNWALL — Elmer House.— Five minutes' walk from landing 
and the West Shore railroad station ; on a bluff two hundred and 
fifty feet above the river ; family hotel ; electric lights ; good stab- 
ling ; receives one hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $2.50 to 
$3 ; by the week, $12 to $20. Special rates for the season. Open 
from May to December. Proprietor (for the last 20 years) : Wil- 
liam B. Elmer, Cornwall-on-Hudson, Orange county, N. Y. 



GREENW^OOD LAKE — Brandon House. — On a spur of the 
mountain jutting into the lake, with lawns sloping to the shore on 
either side ; gi-ounds of fifty acres ; shaded walks and picturesque 
rambles ; water from mountain spring ; complete new sanitary ar- 
rangements ; telegraph and telephone ; two hours and fifteen minutes 
from New York ; two express trains daily. Prices : — By the day. 
$2.50 to $3; by the week, special rates; special rates for June. 
Proprietor : D. Edgar Close, Greenwood Lake. Orange county, 
N. Y 

QUAKER HILL— MizzEN Top.— Three ini)es from Pawling on 
the Harlem R. R. ; elevation one thousand three hundred feet, af- 
fording far-reaching and varied mountain views ; gas, electric bells, 
bath-rooms, steam-heating apparatus and spring water ; thorough 
sanitary system ; billiard room and bowling alley ; an " amusement 
hall " and ladies' billiard rooms ; music for the season ; wide ve- 
randas ; hotel stage runs morning and afternoon to Hamersly lake, 
where there are row and sail boats and good fishing ; stabling and 



294 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

livery ; receives two hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; 
special rates for June. 

PAWLING — DuTCHER House. — Sixty-three miles from New 
York by the Harlem road, a few minutes from the station ; elevation 
seven hundred feet ; substantial building with Queen Anne cot- 
tages ; large rooms ; hot and cold baths ; electric bells ; water from 
mountain springs ; grounds of twelve acres ; opera house, with 
stage appointments ; daily concerts ; receives two hundred 
guests. Address, Dutcher House, Pawling, Duchess county, N. Y. 



YONKERS— The Glenwood.— At Glenwood, on the bank of the 
river, thirty-five minutes from New York, via N. Y. C. and H. R. 
R., of Northern Railroad ; convenient summer residence for families ; 
bar ; modern improvements ; boating, fishing, bowling ; receives 
sixty guests. Prices : — By the week, for single person, $10 to $12, 
for two, $16 to $20 ; children, half rate. 



SPUYTEN DUYVIL— Brentford Hall.— The first railway 
station on the Hudson river road above Manhattan Island, at the 
junction of Spuyten Duyvil Creek with the Hudson ; house situated 
two hundred feet above the river, of which it commands beautiful 
views ; within twenty-two minutes of Grand Central depot ; exten- 
sive, well shaded grounds ; tennis and croquet; delightful drives. 
Prices : — By the week, $10 to $15. 



LAKE MAHOPAC — Thompson's Hotel. — On the southern shore 
of the lake, commanding a beautiful view of its islands and wooded 
hills ; large and comfortably fitted up rooms in suites for families ; 
perfect drainage ; billiard-room, bowling-alley ; steam yacht, sail and 
row boats ; telegraph ofiice ; receives four hundred guests. Open 
from June to October. Prices : — By the day, $3.50; by the week, 
$15 to $25. Proprietor, Emerson Clark, Lake Mahopac, N. Y. 



LAKE MAHOPAC— Dean House.— On a shaded lawn of eight 
acres on the west side of the lake, sloping to the wharves and boat- 
house ; bathing-house, handsome boats ; billiard-room, bowling-al- 
ley ; stabling ; milk and vegetables from the hotel farm ; furnished 
cottage to let, with board at hotel. Open about June i. Prices : — 
By the day, $3.50; by the week, $15 to $30. Proprietor, A, H, 
Dean, Lake Mahopac, N. Y. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 295 

II. 

SHAWANGUNK RECxION. 



Under this name may be included that elevated plateau which, 
touching on the Hudson between Rondout and Poughkeepsie, ex- 
tends from the Wallkill Valley on the east to the western descent 
of the Blue Hills beyond the upper waters of the Susquehanna, 
embracing Sullivan and parts of Ulster and Delaware counties. It 
is crossed by the Shawangunk Mountains, and west of them by a 
wilderness of hills and valleys which, in primitive savagery, may 
almost take rank with the Adirondacks. It is a favored haunt of 
sportsmen. Clubs of sportsmen have purchased lakes and tracts 
ot land, and are doing much to preserve the fish and game. The 
southwestern portion of this region is crossed by the Erie railway, 
branches of which extend from Middletown to Pine Bush in Ulster 
county, and from Port Jervis to Monticello in Sullivan county. 
The central portion is penetrated by the New York, Ontario and 
Western Railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) ; from 
Campbell Hall a branch of this road runs through the Wallkill 
Valley to Rondout-Kingston on the Hudson ; from Summitville 
a branch extends eight miles to Ellenville, Sullivan county ; from 
Walten a branch extends seventeen miles to Delhi, Delaware 
county. The villages and hamlets thus brought within easy reach 
lie at an elevation of from 700 to 2,200 feet above tide water. 



LAKE MINNEWASKA— Cliff House and the Wildmere.— A 
lake of very picturesque environment, at an elevation of one thou- 
sand eight hundred feet, on the most easterly range of the Shawan- 
gunk Mountain region, ten miles by stage from New Paltz on the 
Wallkill Valley road, accessible via Kingston on the West Shore road, 
or via Campbell Hall on the New York, Ontario and Western road. 
The Cliff House, standing one hundred and fifty feet above the 
lake on the east, commands a view extending from the Hudson 
Highlands on the south to the Catskills, and up the Hudson river 
valley to the Lake George region on the north, and from the line 
of the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east and north- 
east, to ranges of the Shawangfunk Hills on the west ; it receives 
two hundred and fifty guests. The Wildmere House, on the ridge 
west of the lake, is somewhat larger than the former and commands 
similar views ; it is still more recent in construction ; lighted with 
gas, halls heated by furnaces, the rooms having open fire-places 
for burning the resinous mountain pme ; private balconies. The 



296 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

region surrounding the lake is overgrown with pine and hemlock, 
and remains in its primitive condition, with the exceptions that 
roads have been opened to the various waterfalls, caverns, preci- 
pices, etc., with which it abounds. Both houses are temperance 
houses, and in the management certain restrictions are imposed 
which have secured for them a select patronage. Prices : — By the 
day, $2 to $3, according to the season ; by the week, in June, $ii to 
$14; July and August, $15 to $20 ; after September i, $14 to $16; 
modified rates for double rooms. Proprietor, Alfred H. Smiley. 



ELLEN VIJLLE— Mr. Meenahga House.— Two miles by stage 
from Ellenville — a village of four thousand inhabitants, termmus of 
branch of the New York, Ontario and Western road ; elevation one 
thousand five hundred feet ; two hundred acres of wild mountain 
land ; view bounded on the north by the Catskill ranges ; enlarged 
since last season ; wide hallways, veranda one hundred and thirty 
feet long; a "library building," well supplied with books, maga- 
zines, etc. ; bowling alley and children's playground ; gas, steam 
heat and open fires ; electric bells in all rooms ; spring water ; bath- 
rooms ; a strict temperance house ; six furnished cottages rented 
for the season at $ioo to $200, with table board at $8; receives 
one hundred and seventy-five guests. Prices : — By the day, $2. 50 
and $3; by the week, $12 to $25 ; double rooms, $18 to $35. Pro- 
prietor, U. E. Terwilliger, Ellenville, Ulster county, N. Y. 



GREENFIELD— Windsor Lake House.— Five miles by stage 
from Ellenville and about three and a half hours from New York ; 
(me hundred and twenty acres of mountain land, with fifty acres 
under cultivation ; elevation one thousand five hundred feet, over- 
looking the lake ; rebuilt and enlarged since last season ; all mod- 
ern improvements, large parlors, broad halls, wide stairs ; baths 
with hot and cold water on every floor ; sanitary plumbing ; open 
fire-places ; broad piazzas and balconies ; pure water from a moun- 
tain spring ; table supplied from the farms ; an extensive lawn, 
with lawn tennis, archery and croquet grounds ; billiards and bowl- 
ing; stages to and from depot; good livery; receives two hun- 
dred guests. Open June 15 to October i. Prices : — By the day, 
for June, September and (October, $2 ; for July and August, $2.50 ; 
by the week, single rooms, $10 to $15 ; double rooms, $16 to $25 ; 
special rates to families, or for the season. Address Greenfield, 
Ulster county, N. Y. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 297 

LIBERTY — Hotel Wawonda. — Situated on an elevation over- 
looking Liberty village ; two thousand feet above sea level ; one mile 
from station ; wide verandas and private balconies ; bath-rooms, 
gas, electric bells and all the conveniences and elegancies of first- 
class hotels ; receives two hundred guests. 



III. 

THE CATSKILL REGION. 



The most easterly range of the Catskill Mountains lies ten miles 
west of the Hudson river, and runs parallel with it for a distance of 
twenty miles, its southern limit being about ninety miles from the 
mouth of the river. The width of the Catskill Mountain region is 
about seventy-five miles. It is drained on the west by the head- 
waters of the Delaware river, and by the Schoharie creek, which 
runs in a northwesterly direction to the Mohawk. It includes por- 
tions of Greene, Ulster and Delaware counties. The mountains 
are approached from Rondout on the Hudson, eighty-eight miles 
from New York, and from Catskill on the Hudson, one hundred 
and nine miles. From Rondout the Ulster and Delaware Railroad 
penetrates the mountain region in a northwesterly direction to 
Hobart, seventy-eight miles. At Phoenicia, on this road, a branch 
of fourteen miles, called the Stony Clove Railroad, extends to Hun- 
ter on Schoharie creek, and by means of a minor branch of four 
miles gives approach to the Kaaterskill House and other large 
hotels of the range that faces the Hudson. These hotels are also 
approached by the Catskill Mountain Railroad, which runs from 
Catskill Landing to Cairo, a branch running southward from 
Cairo Junction to Palenville, at the base of the mountain range, 
whence an Otis elevating railroad has been laid up the mountain, 
giving direct access to the old Catskill Mountain House. Rondout 
and Catskill, the two points of departure for the mountains, are 
accessible by the West Shore road (Franklin street and West Forty- 
second street) ; or by ferry from stations on the Hudson River road ; 
or by Albany day boats, leaving Vestry street at half-past eight, 
and Twentv-second street at nine A. M. 



JEFFERSON HEIGHTS— Grant House.— On a plateau three 
hundred feet high, one mile from Catskill village and the West Shore 
station, the view embracing the valleys of the Catskill and Kaater- 



298 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

skill, Catskill Mountains and the Hudson valley ; electric bells, gas, 
hot and cold water baths on every floor ; billiards and bowling ; a 
pleasure ground of thirty acres sloping down to the creek ; orches- 
tral concerts twice a day and for the dance in the evening ; re- 
ceives three hundred guests. Open May 30 until late in September. 
Prices: — By the day, $3; by the week, single rooms, $12 to $20; 
double rooms, $20 to $30 ; special rates for the season. Reduced 
rates for June. 



SUMMIT MT.— The New Grand Hotel.— On Summit Mountain, 
at an elevation of two thousand five hundred feet ; a few minutes' 
walk from the station, on the Ulster and Delaware Railroad, thirty- 
eight miles from Rondout ; through parlor cars by the West Shore 
Road ; four and a half hours from New York ; surroundings include 
Old Storm King (four thousand feet), the Slide, the Wittenberg 
and the Cornell, inclosing Big Indian Valley ; in Queen Anne 
style, with frontage of six hundred and fifty feet ; wide verandas, 
palatial salon ; bedrooms, 17 x 19 feet, with ample wardrobes ; 
suites with private baths ; dining-room with mountain view on 
two sides ; elevators, steam heat, electric bells ; orchestral con- 
certs twice daily ; receives four hundred guests. Open June to 
October. Prices: — By the day, $5.00; by the week, single rooms, 
$21 to $28; double rooms, $42 to $60; special rates for suites of 
rooms with private bath ; rates reduced for July. Manager, S. J. 
Cornell. 



SOUTH MOUNTAIN— Hotel Kaaterskill.— On the summit of 
Kaaterskill (South Mountain), at an elevation of three thousand 
feet, commanding the view of the Hudson river valle^v^ ; drive of a 
few minutes from Kaaterskill station on the Kaaterskill branch of 
the Stony Clove Railroad ; gas, elevators, electric bells, steam 
heat ; baths on every floor ; suites with private baths ;. ball-room, 
with stage appointments ; orchestral music ; bilUard room, 
bowling-alley ; separate cottage building for invalids and families 
desiring seclusion and quiet ; telegraph ; livery with good saddle 
horses. Prices in July, by the week $21 and upwards. Address, 
Kaaterskill P. O., N. V 

KAATERSKILL FALLS— Laurel House.— At the head of the 
cascades, one of which is a fall of two hundred feet ; within three 
hundred yards of the Laurel House station on the Kaaterskill 
branch of the Stony Clove Road ; hotel stage meets all trains at 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 299 

the station, also at the Palenville station on the Catskill Mountain 
Railroad from Catskill village ; verandas six hundred feet in 
length ; gas, electric bells ; bath-rooms on every floor ; pure spring 
water ; receives three hundred guests. Open from June 15 to 
October i. 



CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE— Short stage drive from 
Mountain House station on the railway from Catskill village, or di- 
rectly accessible by the new Elevating Railroad from the foot of the 
Mountain ; on a ledge of rock at an elevation of two thousand two 
hundred and fifty feet, the view bounded by the Hudson Highlands 
on the south, the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east, 
and the Adirondacks on the north ; park of three thousand acres 
intersected by drives and footpaths ; water from mountain springs ; 
bath-rooms, approved plumbing ; receives four hundred guests. 
Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $14 to $24, according to the 
season ; special rates for a prolonged stay. Proprietors, Catskill 
Mountain House Co., Catskill, N. Y. 



IV. 

OTSEGO LAKE RECxION. 



This highland, which forms the watershed of the Susquehanna, 
lies west of the Catskill region and has an elevation of 1,200 to 
1,700 feet, being the highest plateau in the State of New York, ex- 
cept that crossed by the Adirondack ranges. The surface is 
picturesquely broken up into hills of moderate elevation. At the 
northern limit lies Lake Canadarago, at the southern Lake Otsego. 
The latter, to which the surrounding hills give a varied and beau- 
tiful shore line, is nine miles long and from one to one and one- 
half wide. Cooperstown, which derives its name from the novelist 
whose " Leather Stocking " tales have given the place celebrity, 
lies at the south end of the lake and is ninety-one miles from 
Albany, from which it is reached by the Susquehanna division of 
the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s railway and Cooperstown 
branch without change.— Lake Canadarago, five miles long by two in 
width, lies fourteen miles northwest of Lake Otsego, at an eleva- 
tion of one thousand seven hundred feet, amid an environment of 
wooded hills. Riclifield Springs, one mile from the lake, is reached 
by the New York Central railroad to Utica, thence by tlie Delaware, 



300 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

Lackawanna and Western railway to Richfield Junction, thence by 
branch road, without change. A four-horse tally-ho coach makes 
daily trips between Cooperstown and Richfield Springs. 



RICHFIELD SPRINGS — Hotel Earlington. — Delightfully 
situated, with charming outlook over park ; large rooms, single and 
en suite ; large open fire-places in the ladies' parlor and grand hall ; 
elevator, cafe and ladies' and gentlemen's billiard-room ; bowling 
alley and shooting gallery ; shaded tennis courts ; electric bells, 
gas, new sanitary plumbing throughout ; bath-rooms on each floor ; 
vStubblebine's orchestra of twelve pieces ; branch of Dickel riding 
school ; superior stabling accommodations ; elaborate cuisine and 
thoroughly disciplined service ; the four-horse coach " Earlington " 
makes the circuit of the lake every afternoon ; receives five hundred 
guests. Open June 30 to September 15. Prices : — By the day, 
for transient guests, $4. Owner and manager, Eugene M. Earle, 
who may be seen at the Hotel Bristol. Fifth avenue and Forty- 
second street, NeM^ York. 



RICHFIELD SPRINGS— Davenport House.— On high gi^ound 
opposite the Sulphur Spring and the bath house, its front rooms over- 
looking the park; broad veranda, one hundred and fifty feet in 
length, shaded by elms and maples ; electric bells ; thorough drain- 
age ; servants' quarters in a separate building ; receives two hun- 
dred guests. Open June i to October i. Special rates for June and 
September. Address Richfield Springs, Otsego County, N. Y. 



SHARON SPRINGS— Pavilion Hotel.— In an upland valley, 
elevation one thousand one hundred feet, surrounded by hills ; on a 
branch of the Albany and vSusquehanna railroad ; famous for its 
sulphur springs, for the utilization of whose water extensive bath- 
mg houses have been erected with every appHance for inhalation, 
douches, etc., under medical direction. The Pavihon Hotel is the 
largest in the place and C(msists of a main building and several 
groups of cottages, in ornamented grounds of fifty acres, command- 
ing a view extending beyond the M<^hawk valley to the hills around 
Lake George, eighty miles distant ; plans and appointments es- 
pecially adapted to families with young children ; detached play- 
house for children ; separate bowling and billiard hall exclusively 
for guests ; afternoon and evening concerts ; cottages and cottage 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 801 

flats at fixed rental; baths, bells, etc., througlioiit ; receives five 
hundred guests. Prices: — By the week, $15 to $21. Proprietors, 
John H. Gardner & Son, Sharon vSprings, N. Y. 



SHARON SPRINGS— Sharon House.— On Main street, facing 
the Sulphur Baths, and commanding a view of the adjacent forests ; 
during the winter the house has been thoroughly renovated, and 
Dew furniture and new mattresses have been added ; good livery 
m connection with the hotel ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. 
Prices: — By the day, $2.50; by the week, $12 to $16. Proprietor, 
Thomas K. Sharp. 



CENTRAL LAKES, N. Y.— NIAGARA. 



The Lakes of Central New York, having a general direction 
north and south, lie in the valleys of the hills that form the exten- 
sion of the mountains of Western Pennsylvania. Their waters 
flow northward, and are tributary to the Seneca River, which 
empties into Lake Ontario at Oswego. Skaneateles, the most easterly 
of these lakes, lies at an elevation of eight hundred and sixty-five 
feet above the sea level ; Canandaigua, the most westerly, at an eleva- 
tion of six hundred and sixty-eight feet. Between these lie Owasco 
(seven hundred and fifty-eight feet), Cayuga and Seneca (four hun- 
dred and forty-one feet), and Keuka (seven hundred and eighteen 
feet). The region abounds in precipitous water courses and glens, 
famous among which isWatkins Glen, an ascending series of gorges 
between two mountains, thirteen miles in length, situated at the head 
or southern limit of Seneca T>ake. 



LAKE SKANEATELES — The Pack wood. — Delightfully situ- 
ated on shore of Skaneateles lake ; two steamers on lake ; sailing, 
rowing and fishmg ; good livery and beautiful drives ; house in per- 
fect sanitary condition. Prices : — By the day, $2 ; special rates to 
families. 



NIAGARA FALLS— Clifton House.— On the Canada bank, 
fronting the park reservations, all the rooms and balconies affording 
full view of the falls ; appointments and management of the first 



302 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

order ; perfect drainage ; air cooled by the spray of the falls ; hotel 
stages and porters meet all trains at Niagara Falls station on the 
American side ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. Prices :— 
By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, special rates. Proprietor, G. 
M. Colbum, Niagara Falls, N. Y. 



VI. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS. 



The most frequented inland resort in America. Its season lasts 
from June to October. The village has a population of about 
twelve thousand, but in the height of the season it adds to this 
number not less than thirty thousand visitors. It is one hundred 
and eighty-two miles north of New York, and is reached by the 
West Shore or the Hudson River railroads to Albany, thence by 
Saratoga and Champlain division of -the Delaware and Hudson 
Canal Company's Railroad, without change ; or by boat to Albany, 
thence as above. 



UNITED STATES HOTEL.— Built in the form of an irregular 
pentagon, enclosing an inner court and including in all an area of 
seven acres ; six stories high, with nine hundred and seventeen guest 
chambers ; divided into five sections by fire-proof walls ; fire hy- 
drants in each section and on every floor; ten staircases; two 
elevators ; dining-room, 212 feet by 52 feet ; ball-room, 102 feet by 
53 feet, 26 feet in height ; verandas in all 2,300 feet in length, en- 
circUng the inner court, where are shade trees, fountains, statuary, 
winding walks, and where grand morning concerts are given by 
Stub's orchestra ; a " cottage wing'* arranged in suites for families ; 
with private bath-rooms ; private table when desired. Open from 
June 22 ; always remains open to October i. Prices : — By the day, 
$5, favorable arrangements with families by the week up to August 
I. Proprietors, Tompkins Gage & Perry. 



GRAND UNION HOTEL.— One of the most magnificent of sum- 
mer hotels, with a frontage of two thousand four hundred feet ; built 
about a central court which is beautifully laid out ; the rotunda, 
into which the main entrance leads, is eighty feet in diameter and 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 808 

rises to the top of the building with balconies at each of the five 
stories ; to the left are reception-rooms and the grand salon, noted 
for the beauty of its decorations and furnishings ; in the great 
dining-room one thousand guests may be seated ; a beautiful ball- 
room ; three elevators and broad stairways ; every convenience 
and luxury of appointment that modern ingenuity has devised. 
Prices :— By the day, $5 and upwards ; special rates for September 
and by the season. 



WINDSOR HOTEL.— Central, but retired, on the brow of the hill, 
overlooking Congress Park, fronting on Broadway and William 
street, adjacent to the famous Pompeian Villa ; a select family 
house, having in the quiet elegance of all its appointments more 
the character of a private home than of a public hotel ; rooms 
single and in suites with private bath ; scientific plumbing ; steam 
beat ; electric lights and bells ; wide balconies to every floor ; 
choice cuisine and refined service ; servants exclusively white ; late 
dinners. Prices : — By the day, $5 and upwards. 



CONGRESS HALL.— On Broadway, adjoining Congress Park 
occupying the block between the Congress and Hathorn springs ; 
fa9ade four hundred and seventy feet in length ; veranda twenty 
feet wide, two hundred and fifty feet long ; five stories in height ; 
commanding a view of the most brilliant portion of Saratoga ; two 
wings, three hundred feet long, enclosing a beautiful garden ; sub- 
stantially built of brick and stone in seven fire-proof compartments, 
with heavy iron doors on each floor ; elevators, gas, hot and cold 
water ; bath-rooms on every floor ; water from springs on the 
grounds ; separate concert and ball-room, connected with the house 
by a suspension bridge ; daily morning and evening full orchestral 
concerts ; semi-weekly hops ; receives several hundred guests. 
Open June to October i. Prices : — By the day, $3, $3.50 and 
$4 ; special rates by the week. 



DR. S. E. STRONG'S SANITARIUM.— On Circular street, 
within a few steps of the principal springs, hotels and the park ; ex- 
tensive improvements made recently, including a decorated recep- 
tion hall, electric bells, a passenger elevator, leading to a sun parlor, 
which opens out upon a roof promenade ; steam heat and open fire- 
place, making it specially attractive to the delicate and valetudina- 



304 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

rian ; massage, Turkish, Russian, Roman, electro-thermal and other 
baths, as well as the usual appointments of first-class hotels; 
spacious parlors, in which musical and other entertainmeuts are 
given ; Delsarte system of physical culture ; gymnasium and 
spacious verandas ; frequented by a cultivated circle. Open all 
the year. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $2.50; by the week, $10 to 
$15 ; ten per cent, discount to clergymen and physicians. Pro- 
prietor, Dr. S. E. Strong. 



MT. McGregor — hotel Balmoral. — On the southernmost 
spur of the Adirondack Mountains, ten and one-half miles from Sara- 
toga, from which it is reached by trains every hour ; elevation one 
thousand three hundred feet ; all modern improvements ; open fire- 
places ; verandas twenty to forty feet wide ; billiards, bowling 
alley, art gallery ; waters brought daily from the Saratoga springs ; 
three lakes stocked with fish and supplied with boats ; telegraph 
office and daily stock quotations ; free passes to and from Saratoga 
to hotel guests ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. 



VII. 

LAKE GEORGE REGION. 

Lake George, or the Horicon, famous for the beauty of its envi- 
ronment, lies on the southeastern border of the Adirondack 
region, in the midst of wooded hills, with mountains in the dis- 
tance. Is thirty-six miles long, three-quarters of a mile to four 
miles wide, and in places four hundred feet deep. Its waters, flow- 
ing northward into Lake Champlain, are tributary to the St. Law- 
rence. Caldwell, a small town at its head or southern extremity, 
is reached from Albany by the Saratoga line of the Delaware and 
Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Baldwin, at the north end, is 
reached from Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain by a branch 
of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Steam- 
])oats ply between Caldwell and Baldwin, making two trips a day. 

For routes see preceding chapter. 



LA^It (iE(M<( i 10— Fori William Henry Hotel.— A house of 
largf5^ proportions and fine appointments, with porticoes affording 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 305 

views of the lake and the mountains ; recent improvements include 
new docks and swimming baths, tennis grounds ; new bowling-alley 
and billiard-tables, elevator, new dining room, new cottages ; electric 
lights, etc. ; water from mountain springs ; perfect drainage ; full 
orchestra ; choice cuisine. Special rates for families. Proprietor 
and manager, Wm. Noble. New York office, Hotel Grenoble, 
Fifty-seventh street and Seventh avenue. 



LAKE GEORGE— The Sagamore.— On Green Island, a wooded 
island of about seventy-five acres, off the west shore, ten miles 
north of Caldwell, connected by a bridge with the mamland ; built 
a few years ago and having the picturesque look of a cottage-like 
grouping of buildings, or a rambling old English manor house ; 
large music hall and ball-room connected with the main building ; 
Edison electric lights, electric bells, elevator ; water from mountain 
springs ; tennis grounds ; billiard-room ; bowling ; sail and row 
boats, steam yacht, horses and carriages ; telegraph office ; steamer 
from Caldwell on arrival of evening train ; receives four hundred 
guests. Open June to October i. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the 
week, $17.50 to $25 ; reduced rates from June i to June 20 ; special 
rates for the season. Proprietor, Myron O. Brown, Bolton Land- 
ing, Lake George, N. Y. 



LAKE GEORGE — Marion House. — On the west shore, six miles 
from Caldwell, three hundred feet from the lake, the grounds ex- 
tending to the shore ; surrounded by a grove ; wide verandas ; 
billiard-room, tennis ground, steam yacht and boats ; gas, electric 
bells, elevator ; orchestral music morning and evening ; telegraph 
office ; livery ; receives four hundred guests. Prices :— By the 
week, $14 to $25. 



LAKE GEORGE— Pearl Point House.— A steamboat landing 
on the east shore, twelve miles from Caldwell, in one of the most 
beautiful parts of the lake ; all steamers land at the wharf ; large 
fleet of sail and row boats ; vegetables and dairy products from 
hotel farm ; telegraph office ; receives one hundred and fifty 
guests. Open in June. Prices : By the day, $3.50 ; by the week, 
$12 to $20. 



306 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

VIII. 

ADIRONDACK REGION— THE ST. LAWRENCE. 



The 7}iassif of the Adirondack region has a general elevation of 
one thousand five hundred to two thousand feet, and an extent of 
about fifteen thousand square miles. It is crossed by five mountain 
ranges. The number of peaks is said to be five hundred, the 
highest of which, Mount Marcy, rises five thousand three hundred 
and thirty-seven feet above the sea level. In the valleys there are 
more than one thousand lakes, variously connected by streams, 
whose waters feed Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence or the 
Hudson. Being thus drained and intersected by watercourses on 
every side, it is a region of a peculiarly wild and broken character. 
It may be entered from the east by stage routes from Westport, 
Port Kent and Plattsburg — stations on the Champlain division of 
the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railways, a branch of 
which extends from Plattsburg to Ausable in the mountains. From 
the south and west it is entered by the Adirondack division of the 
same road, which runs northward from Saratoga to North Creek 
(fifty-seven miles), and when completed will extend to Ogdensburg, 
on the St. Lawrence. At North Creek stages connect with Blue 
Mountain Lake and with the Long Lake and Raquette Lake 
region. An intermediate route is that by the way of Schroon Lake. 
•^Schroon Lake is ten miles long and two miles wide, and is bor- 
dered on the North by lofty summits ; it is reached by a stage drive 
of six miles from Riverside station on the Saratoga and Adiron- 
dack railroad. From Pottersville, the terminus of the stage route, 
steamers ply to Schroon village and other points on the lake. — The 
Lake of Luzerne, on the southern limits of the Adirondack high- 
land, lies at the junction of the upper Hudson and the Sacondaga 
Rivers, at an elevation of seven hundred feet ; it is twenty-two 
miles north of Saratoga, from which it is reached by the Saratoga 
and Adirondack railroad (Hadley station). — The ''Thousand Is- 
lands " in the St. Lawrence River extend from Cape Vincent at 
the foot of Lake Ontario to Ogdensburg, a distance of forty miles. 
Alexandria Bay, midway between these points, is accessible by 
steamer from Cape Vincent, to which the New York, Ontario and 
Western railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) run 
Pullman sleepers without change ; or by steamers plying between 
Clayton and Ogdensburg, the termini of the Utica and Black 
River railroad, which connects at Utica with the New York Cen- 
tral. From Rome on the latter road branches the Rome, Water- 
town and Ogdensburg railroad. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 30? 

SCHROON LAKE — Leland House and Cottages.— At Schroon 
Lake village, near the head of the lake, with view of the lake and the 
neighboring mountains ; verandas three hundred and forty-six feet 
in length, and an observatory one hundred and seven feet high ; 
two cottages of twelve rooms each ; grounds, extending to the lake, 
shaded with evergreens ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
Open from June 15 to October i. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $3.50 ; 
by the week, $12.50 to $21 ; special rates by the season. 



ALEXANDRIA BAY — Hotel Westminster. — In Westmmster 
Park, comprising two hundred and twelve acres of land, at eastern 
end of Wells Island ; park nearly two miles in length, lying among 
the One Thousand Islands, in front of and only one-half mile distant 
from Alexandria Bay ; reached by ferry every hour ; commanding 
views of the St. Lawrence River ; pure and bracing air ; sloping 
green lawns planted with forest trees ; sandy beaches for bathing ; 
spacious verandas ; house fully equipped with all modern appli- 
ances ; electric bells ; baths ; telegraph ; fine orchestra ; dancing. 
Open June i to October i. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $3 ; by the 
week, $12 to $17. Special rates to families and parties. Address, 
Alexandria Bay, N. Y. 



LOWER SARANAC LAKE— The Ampersand.— One mile from 
the village, which is accessible by the Chateaugay Railroad from 
Plattsburg on Lake Champlain — time from New York fourteen 
miles ; the hotel, built primarily for winter guests, is on a slope, 
amid pines, hemlocks and balsams, and its verandas, which in 
winter are enclosed in glass, command a magnificent view of the 
lake and surrounding mountains ; large annex building and cottages 
recently erected ; tents and other provision made for day camps ; 
heated with steam and lighted with gas ; two large fire-places m the 
main office ; large and elegant public and private dining-rooms ; 
ladies' billiard parlor ; elevator ; table supplied from farm with 
fresh milk, eggs and vegetables ; receives one hundred and thirty- 
five guests. Open all the year. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $5. 
Managers, Eaton & Young, Ampersand, Franklin county, N. Y. 



ALEXANDRIA BAY— Thousand Island House.— A ''summer 
palace," with lofty porticos on three sides, thirteen feet in width, 
commanding beautiful views of river and Islands ; central tower 



308 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

one hundred and sixty feet high ; dining-room loo by 40 feet and 
27 feet high ; grand saloon and reception rooms ; gas, electric bells, 
elevators ; bowling alle^^s and billiard rooms ; fleet of boats ; ex- 
cursions among the islands twice daily by a small steamer ; orches- 
tral music ; daily telegraphic stock reports ; receives four hundred 
guests. Prices: — By the day, $4; by the week, $17.50 to $28; re- 
duced rates. 



THOUSAND ISLANDS— The Frontenac— On Round Island, 
in the American channel, one mile below the Clayton Railroad 
terminus, steamboats connecting with all trains ; one mile long and 
about one-fourth in width, rising gradually to the centre, where a 
public lawn is laid out; irregtilar shore line, skirted with woods ; 
hotel on the highest point ; veranda of seven hundred feet ; ob- 
servatory one hundred and fifty feet high, offering an extensive 
view of river and islands ; elevator ; gas, electric bells, steam heat ; 
orchestral music ; boats and oarsmen ; daily excursions among the 
islands ; post and telegraph offices ; receives three hundred and 
fifty guests. Address, Frontenac, Jefferson county, N. Y. 



LAKE MASSAWEPIE— Childwold Park House and Cot- 
tages. — Childwold Park consists of about five thousand acres, in- 
cluding Lake Massawepie and five charming lakelets ; five miles b> 
stage from Childwold station on new Adirondack and St. Lawrence 
Railroad, which branches at Herkimer from the New York Cen- 
tral ; through vestibuled trains from Grand Central depot without 
change ; hotel erected recently now enlarged ; in a grove of forest 
trees between two lakes, and commanding an uninterrupted view 
of Lake Massawepie ; three Queen Ann cottages on the lake to rent 
by the month or season ; canoes and experienced guides ; deer, 
trout and bass ; picturesque rambles and drives within the park ; 
well-equipped livery ; medical attendance ; telegraph and daily 
mails ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. 
Prices: — By the day, $3 to $4; by the week, $15 to $21; special 
rates for season. 



BLUFF POINT — Hotel Champlain. — A c(jmmanding promon- 
tory on the west shore of Lake Champlain, separating the valley of 
the Salmon River from the lake ; three miles south of Plattsburg ; 
upon a broad plateau, which has been cleared in the primitive 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 309 

forest, reached by a winding pike road from Bluff Point station at 
the foot of the hill ; the outlook embraces nearly a thousand square 
miles of valley, lake and mountain ; westward and southward the 
ranges of the Adirondacks, eastward the lake with its bays and 
islands with the mountains beyond ; varied means of diversion are 
offered — steamboat and sailboat excursions on the lake, excursions 
by local railway trains, delightful rambles, horseback trips, the 
hunting and fishing grounds of the Adirondacks within a day's 
outing ; billiard tables and bowling alleys in a separate building. 
Manager, O. D. Seavey. Address, Hotel Champlain, P. O., Clinton 
county, N. Y. 

SARANAC lake — Saranac Lake House. — On the Lower vSar- 
anac, one mile by stage from Miller's station on the Chateaugay Rail- 
road ; elevation two thousand feet ; lake is stocked with fish ; on 
the borders of a forest stretching for miles in all directions ; large 
rooms in suites of two to six ; open fire-places m parlors, office and 
dining-room ; electric bells ; wide verandas nearly one thousand 
feet in length ; bowling and billiards ; camping equipments at 
moderate prices ; telegraph and daily mail ; fresh vegetables, milk, 
butter, etc., from farm; livery stables; receives three hundred 
guests. Open May i to November i. Prices : — By the day, $3 to 
$4 ; special rates for a prolonged stay. 



LAKE LUZERNE — Wayside Inn and Cottages. — On a plateau 
bordering the lake ; elevation above tide water seven hundred and 
fifty feet ; picturesque house in Swiss cottage style ; ornamented 
gTounds of twenty acres w^ith tennis court ; fifty boats on the lake ; 
livery and boarding stables. Open June to October i. Prices : — 
By the day, $3.50 and $4 ; by the week, $21 to $28 ; ten furnished 
cottages, rented at $200 to $1,000 for the seascm ; supplied in whole 
or in part from the hotel table ; table board for cottagers, $14 per 
week; special rates for September; connection by telephone. 



TRENTON FALLS — Moore's Hotel.— Eighteen miles north ot 
Utica ; direct connections from New York by the Rome, Water- 
town and Ogdensburgh Railroad ; the new Adirondack railroad 
crosses the ravine, only a mile from the hotel ; five cascades, mak- 
ing a total fall of two hundred feet, in a ravine remarkable for pic- 
turesque grandeur. "The river," said the poet Willis, "in the 



.310 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

heart of that fearful chasm is the most varied and beautiful assem- 
blage of the thousand forms and shapes of running water I have ever 
seen." Hotel appointments include a large library and valuable 
pictures. Open May to October. Prices : — By the day, $3 to 
$3.50 ; by the week, $14 to $20. Special rates by the month. 



THE BELCEIL MTS., CANADA— Iroquois House.— Two and 
a half miles from St. Hilaire station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 
twenty-two miles from Montreal ; hotel carriages meet all trains ; 
hotel stands on a table rock at an elevation of one thousand six 
hundred feet, commanding an extensive and varied view ; adjacent 
to a mountain lake three miles in circumference, affording jfishing, 
bathing and boating ; large bath-houses supplied by a stream of 
• water from the lake ; grounds of practically unlimited extent, pic- 
turesquely varied ; billiards, bowHng-alley ; livery at moderate 
rates ; receives four hundred guests. Open from May to Septem- 
ber. Prices: — By the day, $2 to $3; by the week, $10 to $17. 
Address, St. Hilaire, P. Q., Canada. 



IX. 

GREEN MOUNTAIN REGION. 



The Green Mountains are the most northerly extension of the 
ranges of which the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts, the Litch- 
field Hills of Connecticut and the Highlands of the Hudson form 
part. They run about midway between the Connecticut River on 
the east and the valley of Lake Champlain and the Hudson on the 
west, and with their foothills and spurs, give picturesque character 
to the entire State which derives from them its name. The high- 
est summits are Mount Mansfield (four thousand three hundred and 
forty-eight feet), Camel's Hump (four thousand one hundred and 
eighty-eight feet), Killington Peak (three thousand nine hundred 
and twenty-four feet), and Ascutney (three thousand three hundred 
and twenty feet). 



MANCHESTER— Equinox House.— A beautiful village on the 
Bennington and Rutland Railway, thirty miles south of Rutland, 
in a valley three miles wide, with the Green Mountains on the east 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 311 

and Mount Equinox on the west, from the summit of which may be 
seen Lakes George and Champlain, the Catskills, Greylock and the 
Franconia cham of White Mountains. Hotel of the first-class, with 
extensive grounds ; stocked trout pond one mile from hotel, for 
special use of guests ; table water from Equinox spring, one thou- 
sand five hundred feet above the village, possessing valuable cura- 
tive qualities, "as near perfect as any water known," says Profes- 
sor Chandler ; thorough drainage appointments with new system 
of water supply ; music afternoon and evening ; billiards, bowling- 
alley, tennis and croquet grounds ; beautiful drives and excursions ; 
well equipped livery ; dogs not taken. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; 
by the week, $21, $25 and $28; in the cottage, with light rooms, 
service, etc., $17.50. Proprietor, F. H. Orvis, Manchester, Ben- 
nington county, Vt. 



MIDDLETOWN SPRINGS— Montvert Hotel.— Seven miles 
by stage from Poultney, which is seventy-two miles from Albany 
by the Rutland and Washington Railroad ; elevation about three 
thousand feet ; gas ; water on every floor from mountain springs ; 
hose and fire extinguishers ; wide verandas, affording views of 
Kellington, Pico, Spruce, Knob and other summits ; billiards and 
bowling; grounds of thirty-five acres, on which are the "healing 
springs ; " livery and boarding stables ; receives three hundred and 
fifty g^uests. Address, The Montvert, Middletown Springs, Vt. 



NEWPORT, VT.— Owl's Head Hotel and Cottages.— On Lake 
Memphremagog, at base of Owl's Head Mountain ; by rail to New- 
port and steamer, twelve miles to hotel ; five hundred acres in 
grounds, nearly a mile of lake front ; pure mountain air, with 
aroma from forests of balsam-fir, cedar and birch ; house recon- 
structed in 1890 ; large hall for indoor amusements ; water on 
every floor ; bowling ; billiards ; no bar, but wine served at table ; 
receives one hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $2 to $3 ; by 
the week, $8 to $15. 



LAKE DUNMURE— Mountain Sprlng Hotel.— Nine miles 
from Brandon on the Central Vermont Railroad ; a beautiful lake 
five miles in length, bordered by mountains ; a new house provided 
with every modern appointment for the comfort of guests ; eleva- 
tor ; electric bells in every room ; incandescent electric lights ; hot 



312 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

and cold baths ; rooms single or in suits ; perfect sanitary condi- 
tions ; pure spring water ; beautiful walks and drives ; good livery ; 
two hundred spacious and well furnished rooms ; six cottages 
connected with hotel by covered walk, rented whole or in part. 
Open in June. Prices: — By the week, $12.50 to $22.50. Address> 
Salisbury, Vt. 



X. 

WHITE MOUNTAINS— MAINE LAKES. 



The mountain land of New Hampshire includes about twenty 
peaks, ranging in height from four thousand feet to that of Mount 
Washington, six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet. Gen- 
eral elevation of the plateau, one thousand six hundred feet ; its 
extent from south to north, forty-five miles ; from east to west, 
thirty miles. The mountains are divided into two groups, the 
western being known as the Franconia ; they form, however, but 
one massif. The two points of departure for the mountains are 
Wells River on the west, and North Conway on the east. These 
two points are connected by a continuous line of railway formed by 
the junction of the Lowell division of the Boston and Maine with 
the Portland and Ogdensburg Railways, which intersect the moun- 
tain region. — Wells River may be most directly reached from New- 
York by way of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad 
to Springfield, and thence up the Connecticut Valley ; from Boston 
by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, which touches at Lake Win- 
nepesaukee. — North Conway is reached, via Boston, by the Boston 
and Maine Railroad. 



FRANCONLV NOTCH— Profile House.— A pass between the 
Franconia and Pemigewasset ranges ; six miles by railway from 
Bethlehem Junction ; hotel on an open plateau, at an elevation ot 
<jne thousand nine hundred and seventy-four feet ; between two 
lakes ; parlor 100 by 50 feet ; gas, elevator, steam heat and open 
fires ; post and telegraph offices ; carriage excursions twice daily 
through the Notch to the Old Man of the Mountain and other 
places of special interest ; steam yacht on Echo Lake ; new ball- 
room orchestra ; receives five hundred guests. Drawing-room 
cars through from New York daily. Open June to October i. 
Prices :— By the day, $4.50 ; by the week, $21 to $28. Special rates 
for families in July. Proprietors, Taft and Greenleaf. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 313 

LITTLETON— Oak Hill House.— In the valley of the Ammo- 
noosuc, on the Boston and Lowell railroad ; elevation one thousand 
two hundred feet ; two hundred feet above the village ; command- 
ing complete views of the White and Franconia ranges ; steam 
heat and open wood fires ; gas and electric Ughts and bells ; spring 
water from the hills and perfect drainage ; receives two hundred 
guests. Open June to November. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by 
the week, for one, $10 to $18 ; special rates for June. Proprietors, 
Farr & Jarvis, Littleton, N. H. 



JACKSON — Wextworth Hall and Cottages. — At the conflu- 
ence of two mountain streams, three miles from Glen Station on the 
Portland and Ogdensburg railroad ; old manorial style of archi- 
tecture, with artistically designed cottages ; open fire-places and 
steam heat, electric bells ; thorough drainage by a constant flow of 
water from Jackson Falls, a picturesque cascade in full view from 
the verandas ; ball-room, large parlor and dining-room ; kitchen in 
a separate building ; reading-room ; smoking-room, spacious veran- 
das ; fountains, tennis courts ; expensively constructed stables ; 
noted Delmonico chef ; telegraph and telephone ; receives two hun- 
dred and fifty guests. Open June i. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by 
the week, $21 to $30 for single rooms, $35 to $60 for double rooms. 
Address Jackson, Carroll County, N. H. 



BETHLEHE:^!— The Maplewood.— One of the most palatial of 
mountain hotels ; ball-room with stage scenery, foot-lights, dress- 
mg-rooms, etc.; full orchestra ; tennis courts, biUiard-room, bowling- 
alley ; steam heat and open fires ; water in abundance from springs 
on the hills ; approved dramage system ; grounds of one thousand 
two hundred acres, mcluding stock and dairy farm of 600 acres ; 
supplying the tables with fresh milk, butter and vegetables ; large 
livery stables ; receives four hundred guests ; the Maplewood Cot- 
tage is similarly appointed and receives one hundred guests; also 
thirteen furnished cottages on the grounds, rented for the season, 
with hotel board. Prices :— By the day, $4 and upward. 



BARRON'S WHITE ^MOUNTAIN HOUSES.— This important 
chain of hotels, in the heart of the mountain region, under one pro- 



314 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

prietorship, includes : — The Fabyan House, at Fabyan's station ; 
receives three hundred and fifty guests. The Mount Pleasant, half 
a mile from Fabyan Junction and nearest to Mount Washington ; 
receives two hundred and fifty guests. The Crawford, four or five 
miles southeast of Fabyan Junction at the gate of the Notch ; re- 
ceives three hundred and fifty guests. The Summit House, on the 
summit of Mount Washington ; receives two hundred and fifty 
guests. Prices : — At the Crawford and Fabyan houses, $4.50 a day ; 
$21 to $30 a week ; at the Mount Pleasant, $3 a day ; $14 to $21 a 
week ; at the Summit House, $5 a day. Proprietors : Barron & 
Merrill. 



JACKSON — Iron Mountain House. — Half a mile from the vil- 
lage of Jackson, and two and one-half miles from Glen station ; house 
nearly new ; view from the verandas includes Mt. Washington, 
Double Head, Tin and Thorn Mountains in the east, the famous 
Moat to the south and the Iron range in the west ; large, well- 
• lighted rooms with closets ; spring water led in own pipes from 
Iron Mountain ; heated by hot water system and open fires ; bath- 
rooms and thorough drainage system ; separate dining-room for 
nurses and children ; livery at moderate prices ; coaches to all 
trains ; receives one hundred guests. Open June i till October 15. 
Prices: — By the week, $9 to $21 for single rooms, $16 to $26 for 
double rooms ; special rates for June and after September 15. 



GLEN HOUSE.— At the eastern base of Mount Washington, on 
a terrace looking out upon the five highest mountains of New Eng- 
land, which are but three or four miles distant ; stage route to the 
summit of Mount Washington (eight miles) ; elevation one thou- 
sand six hundred and thirty-two feet ; tally-ho six-horse coaches 
ccjnnect with trains at Glen station (fifteen miles) ; a new house 
built a few years ago on the site of the older house ; supplied 
throughout with spring water from the famous Glen Spring ; eleva- 
tor, gas, and all the latest appointments ; open fire-places in every 
suite of rooms as well as in the rotunda and all public apartments ; 
orchestral music ; stables with one hundred horses and every kind 
of vehicle for mountain service ; herd of fifty Jersey cows ; receives 
three hundred and fifty guests. Open June to October i. Prices : 
— By the day, $4.50 ; by the week, $21 to $28 ; children, half rates. 
Proprietor : C. R. Milliken, Portland, Me. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 315 

MOOSEHEAD LAKE— Mt. Kineo House.— Source of the Ken- 
nebec River, on the border of the great Maine woods, one thousand 
and twenty-three feet above the sea ; thirty-five miles long, from 
one to twelve in width ; a picturesque and substantial hotel, at the 
base of Mt. Kineo ; a promontory, half way up the lake, commanding 
a magnificent view ; gas, electric bells, steam heat, open fire-place, 
steam elevator, etc. ; dining-room loo x 51 feet ; verandas fifteen feet 
wide ; birch canoes and guides supplied ; orchestral music. Open in 
June. Prices: — By the day, June, July and October, $2.50 to $3; 
intermediate months, $3 to $4 ; special rates by the week or 
month. 



XI. 

BERKSHIRE AND LITCHFIELD HILLS. 

The hills and mountains of Berkshire County, in Western Massa- 
chusetts, are the connecting links between the Green Mountains of 
Vermont and the Highlands of the Hudson. They are now gentle 
and sloping in their lines, now wild and broken, sheltering well- 
watered and cultivated valleys, whose elm-shaded towns and villages 
are famous for their beauty — a region of lakes, mountain torrents, 
glens, lovers' lanes, rocks and echoes. The Berkshire Hills are 
intersected by the valley of the Housatonic, whose waters flow 
southward, and the valley of the Hoosac, whose waters flow north- 
ward, the Hoosac Mountains lying on the east and the Taghkonics 
on the west of these connecting valleys. The highest points are 
Greylock (three thousand five hundred feet) in the north, and 
Mount Everett in the south. The valley towns are from five hun- 
dred to one thousand two hundred feet above the sea, the hill towns 
from one thousand two hundred to one thousand eight hundred. 
The region is penetrated by the Housatonic Valley railroad, which 
starts from Bridgeport, Conn., on the New York and New Haven 
road, and terminates at Pittsfield, the county town of Berkshire. 
From Pittsfield the Pittsfield and North Adams branch railroad 
leads through Northern Berkshire to Williamstown, where the 
Troy and Boston railroad crosses, by which latter road the tourist 
from the west or east may enter this charming country. Western 
Connecticut, especially Litchfield County, in the northwestern 
part of the State, presents scenery of the same general character 
as that which prevails in Berkshire. Accessible by the Housa- 
tonic railroad from Bridgeport on the New York and New Haven 
railroad ; by the Naugatuck railroad from Bridgeport, and by the 
New Haven and Northampton railroad. 



316 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

PITTSFIELD—Maplewood.— Elevation of the town nearly one 
thousand one hundred feet ; substantial brick building, recently 
improved at an expenditure of $14,000; park-like grounds with 
century-old maples and elms ; gas ; water from a mountain lake ; 
new sanitary improvements ; new parlors, bathrooms and new 
sleeping rooms ; "recreation room "with excellent dancing floor, 
stage for theatricals, bowling alleys and a dark room for amateur 
photography ; livery and stabling ; receives one hundred and fifty 
guests. Open June to November i. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by 
the week, $12 to $25. Proprietor ; Arthur W. Plumb, Pittsfield, 
Mass. 



PITTSFIELD — The Springside. — A new house ; important ad- 
ditions and improvements made since last year ; elevation about 
one thousand six hundred feet ; approached by an elm-shaded drive 
from the main road ; extensive grounds with shaded walks, includ- 
ing a small lake ; large rooms ; electric lights ; baths ; boarding and 
livery stables ; telephonic connections : receives seventy guests. 
Prices : — By the week, $12 to $25. 



LENOX— Bellevue Hotel.— A select and pleasantly situated 
family hotel, the special feature of which is the table ; receives one 
hundred guests. Open June i. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by the 
week, $15 and upward. 



STOCKBRIDGE— Stockbridge House.— One of the pleasantest 
and most frequented villages in the Housatonic valley, between 
Lenox on the north and Great Barrington on the south ; house re- 
cently enlarged and improved ; receives one hundred to one hun- 
dred and twenty-five guests. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by the 
week, $15 to $21. Proprietor, Charles H. Plumb, Stockbridge, 
Mass. 



GREAT BARRINGTON— Collins House.— Pleasantly situ- 
ated on a farm of sixty-five acres in the outskirts of the village, 
surrounded by shade trees and supplied with spring water ; half a 
mile from the station, post-office and free library ; large rooms, 
comfortably furnished; livery; receives sixty guests. Prices: — 
By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $10 to $15. Proprietor, George A. 
Tuller. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 817 

GREAT BARRINGTON— The Berkshire Inn.— A year-round 
resort. Three and one-half hours from New York ; situated on the 
main street, which is shaded by grand old-time elms and bordered 
by cottages and villas amid beautifully ornamented grounds ; pure 
mountain air ; a well-built stone house, provided with spring water, 
electric lights, gas, baths, etc. ; location amid high hills and peculiar 
atmospheric conditions render out-door exercise enjoyable ; gener- 
ous provision for winter comfort indoors with sun parlors, steam 
and open fires ; perfect sanitary arrangements ; a well-equipped 
livery stable, affording every facility for the enjoyment of the 
many delighful drives which centre at this beautiful village. Pro- 
prietor, C. Ticknor, Great Harrington, Mass. 



XII. 

NEW JERSEY HIGHLANDS. 



The mountain ranges of New Jersey, extending over all that part 
of the State lying northward of the City of New York, are the 
prolongation of the Highlands of the Hudson. They nowhere at- 
tain a height greater than one thousand two hundred feet, but are 
broken up into picturesque groupings, intersected with wild water- 
courses and interspersed with lakes. The most important eleva- 
tion is Schooley's Mountain, a ridge of considerable extent, acces- 
sible by the Delaware and Lackawanna railroad to Hackettstown 
(sixty-two miles), thence by a stage drive of about three miles ; 
also by the New Jersey Central to German Valley, thence by a 
stage route of two and one-half miles. Near the summit is a chaly- 
beate spring, which has an old established reputation for efficacy 
in dyspeptic and calculous affections. The views include neigh- 
boring and far distant summits, and the rambles and drives are 
full of interest. On the southern border of the New Jersey High- 
lands is a pleasant hill country, traversed by the New Jersey Cen- 
tral railroad (Liberty street), which offers many delightful places 
of summer residence. 



LAKE HOPATCONG— Hotel Breslin.— In the Brookland 
Mountains, fifty milts from New York, two and one-half miles from 
Drakesville, on the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad, 
or accessible by boat from Hopatcong station ; time from New 
York, one hour and fifty minutes : lake twelve miles long and one 



318 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

to three miles wide, of irregular outline, dotted with islands and 
bordered in places by bold mountain declivities ; elevation one 
thousand two hundred feet ; a new and large hotel in the centre of 
Mount Arlington Park, one hundred and fifty-five feet above the 
lake, offering from its verandas, eight hundred feet in length, 
varied and beautiful views ; elevator, electric bells, steam heat, 
open fireplaces, bath-rooms on every floor ; children's play-room and 
dining-room ; boats and steam launches ; tennis lawns ; livery and 
boarding stables. Prices : — By the day, $5 ; by the week, $25 to 
$28. Manager, R. H. Stearns ; New York address, 265 Broadway. 



SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN— Heath House.— A number of 
distinct buildings, one of which is reserved for families, another for 
adults, accommodating in all three hundred and fifty guests ; sani- 
tary arrangements vouched for by scientific authorities ; music for 
the season, the music-room being 180 feet long by 40 wide ; thirty 
acres in wooded lawns, encircled by a drive ; pure water ; perfect 
drainage ; livery and private stables ; twenty trained saddle horses, 
ponies for children, and a professional riding master ; telegraph 
and telephone. Open early in June. Prices: — By the day, $2.50; 
by the week, $12, $14 and $16 for single rooms, $24, $28 and $32 
for double rooms ; nurses and children, $7 ; furnished cottages to 
let. Proprietor, J. Warren Coleman. Manager, William E. Cole- 
man, Schooley's Mountain, Morris county, N. J. ; New York office, 
room 87, Evening Post Building. 



BERNARDSVILLE—HoTEL Somerset.— In the Highlands of 
Somerset county, where the Passaic and Raritan Rivers have their 
source ; thirty-five miles from New York by the Passaic and Dela- 
ware branch of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad ; 
elevation one thousand feet ; scenery full of varied beauty ; large 
rooms, good beds ; electric bells, billiard tables and bowling alleys ; 
farm of one thoiisand acres ; fruits and vegetables from the hotel 
gardens ; choicest dairy supplies, a registered herd of fifty Jersey 
cows belonging to the hotel ; superior stabling ; stage meets trains ; 
receives two hundred guests. Open in June. Prices : — By the 
week, $20 to $25. Address, Bernardsville, Somerset county, N. J. 



MORRISTOWN— Walton Cottagp:.— At '' Iron vSpring Farm," a 
mile and a half from the village ; pleasantly situated, with comfort- 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 319 

able home-like appointments ; gas, pure spring water, thorough 
drainage ; stabling for forty horses ; supplies of fresh vegetables, 
fruit and milk from the farm ; beautiful drives and fishing in lake ; 
receives seventy guests. Open all the year. Prices : — By the 
week, for one, $12 to $15 ; for two, $25 to $30 ; children, half price. 
Address, L. W. Walton, box 442, Morristown, N. J. 



MORRISTOWN— Park House.— Pleasantly situated, facing the 
park, five minutes walk from the station ; a family hotel with 
accommodations for fifty or sixty guests ; three acres of ground ; 
pure spring water. Prices: — By the week, $10 to $18. Address, 
Park House, Morristown, N. J. 



XIII. 

DELAWARE HIGHLANDS. 



The so-called Delaware Highlands are an extension of the Shaw- 
angunk Mountains, and take their name from the Delaware River, 
which intersects them obliquely. The river enters at Port Jervis 
and escapes at the Water Gap, a narrow gorge walled by rocky 
precipices one thousand six hundred feet in height. The distance 
from Port Jervis to the Water Gap is forty miles. The highlands 
include parts of Pike and Monroe counties, Pennsylvania, and of 
Sussex and Warren counties. New Jersey. It is a region where 
lovers of mountain rambling may find glens, caves, lakes, water- 
falls, in abundance, and which is much frequented by anglers and 
sportsmen. Accessible by the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western 
(Barclay and Christopher streets) to the Water Gap and Strouds- 
burg, in three and a half hours ; and by the New York and Erie 
(Chambers street) to Port Jervis and Lackawaxen, whence stage 
routes to various resorts. 



WATER GAP— Water Gap House.— vStands on a wooded height 
four hundred feet above the river, commanding one of the finest 
views of the Gap, and overlooking the country for miles in all 
directions ; three hours from New York by the Delaware, Lacka- 
wanna and Western Railroad ; large rooms with gas and water 
from mountain springs ; electric bells ; wide verandas, six hundred 



320 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

and seventy feet in length ; billiards, boating, bathing, fishing, 
mountain rambles and drives. Prices: — By the day, $3.50 to $4; 
by the week, June and October, $16 ; July, August and September, 
$18. Proprietor, L. W. Brodhead, Delaware Water Gap, Pa. 



WATER GAP — KiTTATiNNY HousE.~On a plateau, one hun- 
dred and seventy-five feet above the river, on the Pennsylvania side, 
commanding a view of the river and the surrounding hills ; ten 
minutes from the station ; enlarged and refurnished ; elevator and 
all modern improvements ; rooms in suites with private baths and 
parlors ; heated by steam and wood fires ; verandas eight hundred 
feet in length ; grounds of one hundred and fifty acres, with shaded 
walks ; receives four hundred guests. Open June i to December. 
Prices : — By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, for single rooms, $16 
and upward ; for double rooms, $30 and upward. Proprietors, W. 
A- Brodhead & Sons, Delaware Water Gap, Pa. 



MILFORD — Bluff House. — Seven miles from Port Jervis, on a 
bluff overlooking Delaware River ; within half a mile of the falls of 
the Sawkill, twenty to one hundred feet in height ; a famous glen 
within three minutes' walk of the house ; steps and winding walks 
down the bluff to the Delaware, where there are boats ; fishing and 
hunting ; hot and cold water baths ; wide verandas ; billiards ; 
no bar ; receives one hundred and twenty-five guests. Prices : — 
By the day, $2.50; special arrangements by the week or month. 
Proprietor, H. B. Wells, Milford, Pike county, Pa. 



DINGMAN'S FERRY— High Falls Hotel.— Two and a half 
hours' drive by stage from Port Jervis on the Erie Railroad ; four 
and a half hours by mail coach from Stroudsburg on the Delaware, 
Lackawanna and Western ; two hours by hotel carriage, notice 
given, from Brancheville on Morris and Essex, elevation one thou- 
sand two hundred feet; cascades, caves, glens, etc., within easy 
walking distance of the house ; water from mountain springs ; 
livery at country prices ; rowing and bathing ; veranda two hun- 
dred and fifty feet long ; receives two hundred guests. Open April 
I to December i. Prices: — By the day, $2.50; by the week, $10; 
special rates for the season. Proprietor, Philip Fulmer, M. D., 
Dingman's Ferry, Pike county. Pa. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 321 

XIV. 

APPALACHIAN REGION OF PENNSYLVANIA, 

MARYLAND, WEST VIRGINIA AND 

NORTH CAROLINA. 



The Appalachian Mountam sytem has a breadth in Pennsylvania 
of about one hundred miles, and is bordered on the east by the 
Blue Ridge, and on the west by the Alleghany range. The Penn- 
sylvania Railroad penetrates the Blue Ridge at Harrisburg, and 
following for one hundred and seventeen miles the windings of 
the Juniata, climbs the Alleghanies at Altoona. — The characteristic 
feature of this mountain system in its prolongation through West 
Virginia is its richness in mineral springs, many of which have 
long been important places of resort for their health-giving waters 
and picturesque suiToundings ; the elevation, one thousand five 
hundred to two thousand five hundred feet, ensures coolness and 
purity of air even in midsummer.— In North Carolina the Appa- 
lachian system has a breadth of about fifty miles, and is crossed by 
transverse chains which throw up the loftiest summits of the Atlan- 
tic slope. Among these is Mount Mitchell, formerly known as the 
Black Dome (six thousand seven hundred and ten feet). Asheville, 
a town of several thousand inhabitants (elevation two thousand 
two hundred and fifty feet), is the point of departure for excursions 
in this sublime mountain land ; it is reached m twenty-four hours 
from New York by the Piedmont Air Line (Pennsylvania station, 
Jersey City), connecting at Salisbury with the Western North 
Carolina Railroad. Average temperature in July, 71.9. 



MINNEQUA SPRINGS, PA.— Minnequa House.— In a moun- 
tain glen, one thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the sea, 
surrounded by rugged heights ; springs of abundant flow and re- 
markable curative properties ; accessible via Pennsylvania Railroad 
to Harrisburg, thence by Northern Central ; in a park of one hun- 
dred acres ; newly erected house, with elevator and all modern ap- 
pointments ; orchestral music ; receives five hundred guests. Open 
June to November. 



GLEN SUMMIT, PA.— Glen Summit Hotel.— On the Nescopec, 
a mountain ridge dividing the Wyoming and Lehigh valleys ; five 
hours from New York by Lehigh Valley road, Liberty street ; ele- 



322 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

vation two thousand feet, commanding a view one hundred miles 
in extent over a wild mountainous region ; recently enlarged and 
hydraulic elevator added ; gas, steam heat, electric bells ; water on 
every floor from the Indian Sand spring ; baths ; grounds of six 
hundred acres laid out in walks and drives ; receives two hundred 
guests. Prices :— By the day, $4 ; by the week, $15 to $20. Address 
Glen Summit, Luzerne County, Pa. 



HIGHLAND LAKE, PA.— EssiCK Mr. Home.— Five miles by 
stage from Picture Rocks, a station on the Williamsport and North 
Branch Railroad, sixteen miles from Williamsport, Pa., on a spur of 
the Alleghanies, at an elevation of two thousand feet ; grounds of 
two hundred and fifty acres surrounded by virgin forests ; a deer 
park with fawns and other native animals ; adjacent lake for bathing 
and boating ; new house ; wide verandas, large bedchambers fur- 
nished in hard wood and supplied with hair spring mattresses; 
water from flowing springs ; thorough sanitary arrangements ; 
daily parlor and lawn concerts by a select orchestra ; mails twice 
daily, telephone connections. Open June i to October i. Proprie- 
tor, H. M. Essick, Picture Rocks, Lycoming County, Pa. 



WERNERSVILLE, PA.— Grand View House,— Nine miles 
from Reading ; on South Mountain, a spur of the Blue range, a re- 
gion known for salubrity of climate, pure water and picturesque 
scenery ; two and one-fourth hours from Philadelphia ; four and 
one-fourth hours from New York by the Central Railroad of New 
Jersey ; hotel in a tract of about four hundred acres of evergreen 
and forest trees, laid out in parks and rambles ; a massive struc- 
ture, built of mountain stone, lined on the inside to protect from 
dampness ; one hundred and thirty-five feet long and four stories 
high ; also a large three story cottage, about ninety feet from the 
main building, used exclusively as a dormitory, heated by steam 
and open grates. All important appliances for the successful 
treatment of disease, massage, electricity ; Turkish, vapor and other 
baths; oxygen inhalations, etc. Open all the year. Prices: — 
By the week, $10 to $25. Proprietors : Drs. Wenrich & Deppen. 



POCONO MOUNTAIN HOUSE.— On one of the highest points 
of the Pocono Mountains, one-third of a mile from Fork's Station on 
the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad ; elevation, two 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 328 

thousand two hundred ; commanding a view of the Delaware Valley 
above and below the Water Gap ; surrounded by a beautiful grove, 
with numerous springs of cold water ; hotel recently enlarged ; elec- 
tric bells ; hot and cold baths ; large piazzas at every story ; perfect 
drainage ; table supplied from dairy and truck farm and from New 
York and Philadelphia markets ; two cottages in connection with 
the house ; boarding and livery stables ; trout fishing and gunning ; 
stage meets all trains ; receives three hundred guests. Open May 
to November. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by the week, $17.50 and 
upwards for single ; $30 for double rooms. Special rates for June 
and September. Proprietors, E. E. Hooker & Son, Mount Pocono, 
Monroe County, Pa. 



THE GLADES, MD.~Deer Park and Oakland.— A series of 
openings along the upper waters of the Youghiogheny river on 
the plateau summit of the Alleghanies of Maryland ; elevation 
about three thousand feet ; two hundred and forty miles west of 
Baltimore on the main line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, all 
trains of which stop at both the hotels above named, which are six 
miles apart, the Deer Park Hotel consisting of three large and 
picturesque buildings connected by covered passageways ; elabor- 
ately appointed and elegantly furnished ; abundance of pure spring 
water ; perfect drainage system ; at Deer Park a large bath- 
house with swimming pool and smaller baths, the water main- 
tained at an equal temperature by steam heat ; billiards and bowl- 
ing ; electric lights in the hotels and on the grounds ; orchestral 
music morning and evening at both houses ; completely appointed 
livery ; beautiful drives over well-made roads ; a number of cot- 
tages rented separately, with hotel service ; resident physicians ; 
railway station on the grounds of each house ; buffet, parlor and 
sleeping cars of elegant appointments, with attentive service en 
route. Prices : — By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $15 to $21 ; by the 
month, $60, $75 and $90. Manager, George D. DeShields, Deer 
Park or Oakland, Garrett County, Md. ; address Manager Baltim^ore 
and Ohio Hotels, Cumberland, Md. 



CAPON SPRINGS AND BATHS, VA.— On the western slope of 
the great North Mountains four miles from the base and two miles 
from the summit, a delightful drive of fifteen miles from Capon 
station on the Harper's Ferry and Valley branch of the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad ; elevation, one thousand nine hundred ; aver- 



324 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

age summer temperature, sixty-five degrees ; fishing and boating 
in Capon river and lake ; horseback ascent to Eagle's rock and 
other summits, affording a magnificent coup-d'oeil ; bathing estab- 
lishment two hundred and eighty feet in length, including swim- 
ming pool ninety feet by forty-eight, and various kinds of baths ; 
orchestral music ; ball-room eighty by forty feet ; music-room 
with stage for theatricals ; receives nine hundred guests. Open 
June to October. Prices: — By the day, $2.50 to $2.75; by the 
week, $11.25 to $17.50; children at half rates. Proprietor : W. H. 
Sale, Capon Springs, W. Va. 



WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS— Central Hotel.— On the line 
of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, on the western slope of the 
AUeghanies, at an elevation of two thousand feet and surrounded 
by mountain heights ; accessible from New York via the Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad (Pullman cars without change) ; hotel and one 
hundred cottages, receiving m all two thousand guests ; fifty acres 
in lawns ; shooting gallery, billiard and bowling halls ; orchestral 
music ; waters of the springs celebrated for their therapeutic 
value ; elaborate bathing facilities ; no malaria, no mosquitoes. 
Prices : — By the day, $3.50; by the week, $21 ; by the month, $75. 
Superintendent : B. F. Eakle, White Sulphur Springs, Greenbrier 
County, West Virginia. 



XV. 

NEW JERSEY SHORE. 

The ocean shore of New Jersey, extending from Sandy Hook to 
Cape May, is one hundred and twenty-seven miles in length and is 
dotted all along with frequented resorts, each having its peculiar 
attractions. With these Staten Island may be conveniently and 
naturally grouped. The distances from Sandy Hook are as fol- 
lows : — Highlands of Navesink (four miles) ; Bellevue (five miles) ; 
Seabright and Normandie (six miles) ; Oceanic (seven miles) ; Mon- 
mouth Beach (eight miles) ; Long Branch (ten miles) ; Elberon 
(twelve miles) ; Deal (fourteen miles) ; Asbury Park and Ocean 
Grove (sixteen miles) ; Key East (seventeen miles) ; Ocean Beach 
(eighteen miles) ; Spring Lake (twenty miles) ; Sea Girt (twenty- 
two miles) ; Bridle (twenty-three miles) ; Manasquan, Point Pleas- 
ant, St. Elmo and Bay Head (twenty-five miles) ; Tom's River and 
Berkeley (thirty-seven miles) ; Tuckerton, Beach Haven, Atlantic 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 325 

City (one hundred miles), and Cape May (one hundred and thirty 
miles.) The New Jersey shore is accessible as tar as Seaside Park 
by the New Jersey Central (Liberty street), or by the Sandy Hook 
division of the New Jersey Central, steamers leaving from Liberty 
street and connecting, after a sail of twenty miles down New York 
bay, with trains at Atlantic Highlands; or by the Pennsylvania Rail- 
road (Cortlandt and Desbrosses streets) to Long Branch and resorts 
south of Long Branch. Places between Seaside Park and Atlantic 
City are accessible by the Tom's River and Tuckerton branches of 
the New Jersey Central and by branches of the Pennsylvania. 
Atlantic City and Cape May are reached by the Pennsylvania road. 



STATEN ISLAND— Pavilion Hotel.— At New Brighton, on 
New York Bay, thirty minutes from the Battery terminus of the 
elevated roads ; boats every twenty minutes (fare ten cents) ; on a 
bluff three minutes' walk from landing ; faced by lofty porticos, . 
commanding a complete view of the bay, the view from the cupola 
extending to the open sea on the soiith, and the palisades of the 
Hudson on the north ; elevator, electric bells, bath-rooms on every 
floor ; bowling-alley, billiard room, tennis court, children's play- 
room ; spacious dining and ball-room with musicians' gallery, music 
at dinner ; livery and private stables ; receives three hundred and 
fifty guests. Open April to November. Address New Brighton, 
Staten Island. 

STATEN ISLAND— Hotel Castleton.— On Brighton Heights, 
overlooking the Narrows and New York bay ; delightful summer 
residence ; only thirty minutes from Battery ; elegantly decorated 
and furnished throughout ; elevator, electric light, and all modern 
improvements ; spacious verandas. Open all the year. Proprietor, 
James H. Rodgers, New Brighton, Staten Island. 



MONMOUTH PARK— Monmouth Park Hotel.— A new hotel, 
fronting on the Shrewsbury river ; the grounds extending one mile 
along the shore ; a substantially built and beautiful house with 
large rooms, and all the latest appointments ; dining halls in an 
annex ; electric bells ; artesian water. 



LONG BRANCH — United States Hotel. — A step from the 
Central Railroad station and near the pier ; faces the sea with 
magnificent lawns intervening ; verandas and balconies to each 



826 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

floor ; rooms, single and en suite, for four hundred guests; running 
water on each floor ; scientific plumbing and drainage. Prices : — 
By the day, $3 to $3.50 ; moderate rates to families for the season. 
Proprietor, J. C. Van Cleaf, who may be seen at the Mansion 
House, Brooklyn Heights, of which he is one of the proprietors. 



LONG BRANCH— The Scarboro.— At the corner of Ocean and 
Bath avenues, one hundred and fifty feet from the bluff, every 
room commanding a full view of the ocean ; all the modern appoint- 
ments for convenience, comfort and sanitation ; large tennis lawn 
adjoining the house ; best surf -bathing in front ; stables connected 
by telephone with the hotel ; music morning and evening ; receives 
two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 to $5 ; by 
the week, $21 and upward. 



LONG BRANCH— West End and Cottages.— On the bluff 
within two hundred feet of the beach, commanding an uninterrupted 
view of the ocean ; elevators and all the latest appointments ; 
extensive grounds, with luxurious seaside cottages connected by 
telephone; separate amusement hall, 120x80 feet, with ball-room, 
stage, ladies' billiard and reading-rooms, bowling-alleys, etc. ; sea 
view pavilion connected with hotel by an elevated bridge ; Neyer's 
orchestra ; Sunday night concerts ; bathing-houses, warm sea 
baths at all hours ; well eqviipped livery and boarding stables ; re- 
ceives one thousand guests ; cottages and restaurant will open 
June II. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $25 and upwards. 
Proprietors, D. M. and W. E. Hildreth ; New York office, Metro- 
politan Hotel. 



LONG BRANCH— Howland Hoteu— Adjoining the grounds of 
the West End ; frequented by Philadelphia and New York families 
of social prominence ; newly furnished and renovated throughout ; 
complete and beautiful in its appointments; thorough sanitary 
arrangements ; spacious lawns ; select orchestra ; choice cuisine ; 
receives four hundred and fifty guests. Prices : — By the day, $4.50 ; 
by the week, $25 ; special rates for the season. 



ELBERON — The Elberon. — A few minutes' walk from Elberon 
station, about two miles south of the West End, Long Branch ; pic- 
turesque in architecture, ivy-covered, facing the ocean ; complete 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 327 

in appointments ; a number of Queen Anne cottages dispersed, 
amid the grounds, connected by telegraph with the main building 
the occupants being served at home or at the hotel table ; spacious 
lawns for tennis, archery, etc. 



POINT PLEASANT BEACH.— Resort House.— On ManaS' 
quan Bay, allording one of the finest and safest beaches on the 
coast ; combination of country and seashore ; extensive woods and 
fields in vicinity ; large, well-ventilated rooms, with ocean and 
shore view ot forty miles ; modern improvements ; no malaria ; 
grounds for tennis, croquet and archery ; rowing, sailing, fishing ; 
surf and still water bathing ; orchestra ; choice cuisine ; receives 
three hundred guests. Address Point Pleasant Beach, N. J. 



SPRING LAKE— Wilburton-by-the-Sea.— Within fifty yards 
of the surf, with unobstructed view of the ocean ; no marsh lands ; 
the beach drive, extending for miles along the coast, passes in front 
of the house ; coaches meet every train ; sanitary arrangements 
and ventilation according to the most approved methods ; pure 
water supply ; dining-room and ordinary greatly enlarged ; gas ; 
fire-extinguishing apparatus for each floor ; electric bells ; bathing, 
driving, fishing and boating on the lakes, in Squan river and Bar- 
negat bay. Open from June to October. Prices : — by the day, 
single rooms, $4 ; double rooms, $7 ; by the week, for one person, 
$15 to $28 ; for two persons, $25 to $40. Address Spring Lake 
Beach, N. J. 

SPRING LAKE BEACH— Monmouth House.— On a plateau 
between the ocean and a beautiful fresh water lake several acres in 
extent ; luxurious in its appointments ; thoroughly renovated since 
last season ; an artesian well has been sunk seven hundred and 
fifty feet, giving an abundant supply of pure water, and all the 
modern sanitary appliances have been introduced ; gas, electric 
bells, elevator, hot and cold salt and fresh water baths ; safe bath- 
ing beach ; music hall, with daily orchestral performances ; bil- 
liards and bowling ; livery and private stabling ; receives five hun- 
dred guests. Proprietor, L. U. Maltby, Spring Lake Beach, N. 
J., or Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia. 



SPRING LAKE — The Carleton. — Two hundred feet from the 
beach, with full ocean and lake view ; thorough sanitary arrange- 



338 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

ments, electric bells, gas and elevator; pure water from a new 
artesian well ; gas introduced into the annex, which is now as desir- 
able as the main house ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 



ASBURY PARK — Coleman House. — Enlarged by the erection 
of a brick building containing seventy guest chambers and a dining 
hall sixty by eighty feet, with full ocean view ; grounds of two and 
one-fourth acres, facing the ocean on the east and Wesley Lake 
on the south ; separate building, with bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms 
and ball-room, connected with the hotel by a covered bridge ; gas 
and electric lights ; artesian well four hundred and sixty-two feet 
in depth ; new bath-rooms and sanitary appliances throughout ; full 
orchestra ; good livery service and well-appointed stables for 
private teams ; receives three hundred guests. Prices : — By the 
day, $4 and upward ; special rates by the week. Address Coleman 
House, Asbury Park, N. J. 



ASBURY PARK— West End Hotel.— Adjacent to the beach, 
at Asbury avenue and Kingsley street, commanding the ocean 
view ; five story building with all the modern improvements ; 
rooms large and well furnished ; wide verandas and passages ; 
electric lights and bells, orchestra ; billiard parlor ; receives four 
hundred guests. 



ASBURY PARK — Hotel Brunswick. — Facing the ocean, with 
spacious lawn in front ; additions made last year have doubled the 
capacity of the house and greatly improved its appearance and its 
conveniences ; new dining-room looking out upon the ocean ; large 
rooms, single and in suites, with ocean view ; gas, electric bells ; 
thorough sanitary arrangements ; saddle horses, carriages and 
boats ; receives four hundred guests. Open from April i to vSep- 
tember i. Address Morgan & Parsons, Asbury Park, N. J. 



AVON-BY-THE-SEA — Hotel Oxford. — Fronts on the ocean 
and Shark river, with varied view of sea, bay and river and 
inland ; cheerful rooms ; perfect sanitary arrangements ; artesian 
water ; fishing, crabbing, sailing ; surf and still water bathing ; 
groves near at hand ; lawn tennis courts and croquet grounds ; 
carnages at a moment's notice ; pleasant drives ; receives one 
hundred and fifty guests. Prices :— By the day, $3-5o< 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. '&l\\ 

DEAL BEACH— Hathaway House. — Three miles south of 
Long Branch, within five minutes' walk of the ocean and five 
minutes' drive from the station ; stage meets all the trains ; com- 
modious, homelike ; good stabling ; latest sanitary improvements ; 
shaded grounds ; pleasant country surroundings ; fruits and vege- 
tables from the hotel farm ; safe beach, with surf bathing ; receives 
two hundred guests. Open from June to October. Prices : — By 
the day. $2 to $.^5 ; by the week, $12 to $15. 



SEA GIRT — The Beach House. — The old Stockton mansion, 
with extensive additions, adapting it to hotel uses ; retains many 
of the old-time features, such as the spacious hearths and elaborate 
chimney pieces. A unique characteristic of the new house is the 
great veranda which overhangs the water and is built to simulate 
a ship's deck. Hot and cold salt water baths on every floor ; steam 
heat, gas, electric bells, etc. Proprietor, Uriah Welch, for many 
years proprietor of the St. Nicholas Hotel, New York ; indeed Mr. 
Welch gave the St. Nicholas its national reputation. 



ATLANTIC CITY, which is an attractive soimmer as well as 
fashionable winter resort, will be found under the latter head, 
further on. 

CAPE MAY — Congress Hall. — One ot the largest hotels ini 
the coast, luxurious in its appointments ; every modern conveni- 
ence ; new plumbing has been introduced, under government 
inspection, conforming to the latest requirements of sanitary 
science ; music by Hessler's orchestra ; receives seven hundred and 
fifty guests. 



XVI. 

LONG ISLAND. 



The characteristic feature of the south coast of Long Island is 
the long line of insular or peninsular strips of sand, without vegeta- 
tion, which are thrown out as bulwarks against the sea, enclosing 
bays from two to eight miles wide. These beaches, named in order 
from the west end, are : Coney Island, Manhattan Beach, Rocka- 
way Beach (enclosing Jamaica bay), Long Beach (facing Hempstead 



330 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

bay), Jones Beach (facing South Oyster bay), Oak Island and Great 
South Beach (enclosing the Great South bay, East bay and Shinne- 

cock bay). -The northern part of Long Island for a considerable 

distance from New York presents a surface of wooded hills, and 
its shore line is cut up by deeply-receding bays separated by bold 
headlands and irregular peninsulas. These bays in order from the 
west are : Flushing bay, Little Neck bay, Cow bay, Hempstead 
harbor, Oyster bay, Huntington bay, Smithtown bay, beyond 
which the coast presents a comparatively unbroken line to Orient 

Point, its eastern extremity. The eastern part of the island 

divides into two irregular shaped arms enclosing Peconic bay and 
Gardiner's bay, in which lies Shelter Island. The Long Island 
resorts are all accessible by the various lines and branches of the 
Long Island Railroad (James' Slip and East Thirty-fourth street) , 
the eastern terminus of which is at Greenport, ninety-four miles 
from New York. Greenport is also reached by steamers from New 
York, New London, Hartford and Saybrook. For points on the 
Sound near the city the steamer Idlewild leaves Peck Slip at 4 p. m. 
and Thirty-first street at 4.15. The Montauk and New York steam- 
boats (Beekman street, East river) run to Orient Point, Greenport, 
Shelter Island and Sag Harbor. 



FAR ROCKAWAY— UxXiTED States Hotel.— Forty-five min- 
utes from the City Hall, New York, by Wall street and Thirty- 
fourth street ferries ; stands on a high bluff overlooking the ocean ; 
eleven acres of ground ; sea front of one thousand two hundred 
feet ; newly painted, decorated and furnished ; latest sanitary im- 
provements introduced under the superintendence of an expert 
sanitary engineer ; drinking water from the Brooklyn waterworks, 
its purity certified to by the Board of Health ; still water and surf 
bathing ; cuisine under an experienced chef ; electric light and 
bells ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : — By the day, 
$3 ; by the week, $15 to $20. Proprietor, John J. Rogers, a well- 
known restaurateur at 6 Park Place, New York. 



SHELTER ISLAND— Manhaxset House.— A house of pictu- 
resque architecture, encircled with wide verandas ; large rooms, 
single and in suites ; richly furnished ; thorough drainage system ; 
steam heat ; elaborate fire-extinguishing apparatus ; electric lights 
and gas ; ample bath-houses ; bowling and billiards ; sail and row 
boats ; orchestra music ; excellent livery and stabling, with well- 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 331 

trained saddle-horses ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. 
Cozy and comfortable cottages. June 15. to September 15. 
Prices : By the day, $4 ; by the week, $21 and upward ; special 
rates for two or more weeks. Proprietors, Manhanset Improve- 
ment Co., H. D. W. Lawson, Manager. The house has been en- 
larged and improved for the season of 1893. 



SHELTER ISLAND— Prospect House.— Stands on a hillside 
about forty feet above the water, its grounds sloping to the beach ; 
verandas three hundred feet in length ; electric lights in all bed- 
rooms ; separate buildmg with theatrical stage, ball-room, etc.; 
music for the season ; livery and stabling ; approved sewerage 
system ; spring of pure water on grounds ; archery, lawn tennis. 
Prices :— By the day, $3.50 and $4. Special terms for the season. 
Address Shelter Island Heights, Suffolk County, N. Y. 



SHELTER ISLAND— Bay View House.— Rebuilt, enlarged 
and newly furnished ; electric bells throughout ; large dining-room 
with windows on four sides ; sanitary plumbing and perfect 
drainage ; hot and cold salt and fresh water baths ; tennis court 
and ball grounds ; one hundred bathing houses line the shore, 
which may be rented by the week or season ; bowling alleys for 
ladies and gentlemen ; lawn tennis ; billiard hall ; an annex cottage 
of fourteen rooms, facing the bay, well adapted for families ; 
saddle-horses and experienced drivers ; receives one hundred 
guests. Open June i to September 15. Prices : — By the day, $2.50 
to $3 ; by the week, $15 to $21 ; two persons in one room, $25 to %:i,2' 



PINE PARK — The Brentwood AxXd the Austral. — A hand- 
some new hotel in the central part of Long Island, forty-one miles 
from New York by the main line of the Long Island Railroad ; ten 
minutes' walk from station ; surrounded by a park laid out by the 
landscape gardeners, Olmstead and Vaux ; from this park extend 
ten miles westward and thirty-five miles eastward a belt eight miles 
in width of forests of pine, spruce and balsam ; soil dry and sandy ; 
the Austral was completed in 1890 ; plumbing of the latest approved 
method ; Otis elevator, steam heat, and open fires ; music room, 
bowling alleys, billiard and smoking rooms ; private dining-rooms ; 
roof promenade ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. The 
Brentwood, originally a private residence, modeled after a French 
chateau, contains the furniture, paintings and statuary of its origi- 



'^'62 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

nal owner ; receives fifty guests ; thoroughly equipped livery and 
private stabling. 3oth houses open all the year. Proprietors, 
The Austral Company. 

PATCHOGUE— Ocean Avenue Hotel.— On the Great South 
bay, fifty-four miles from Long Island City ; large parlors, smoking 
and reading-rooms ; lighted by gas ; grounds illuminated by elec- 
tricity ; wide verandas and plenty of shade, a grove extending 
almost to the water's edge ; plank walk to the bath houses ; daily 
trips across the bay to the beaches ; livery and boarding stables ; 
hotel stages meet trains ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
Cottages to let with or without board. Open May i until October. 
Prices : — By the day, $2.50 to $3 ; by the week, $10 to $15. Address 
Patchogue, Long Island. N. Y. 



PATCHOGUE — Laurel House. — Quarter of a mile from the 
Great South Bay, with full open view of the bay ; one and one- 
half hours from New York ; renovated and improved for the 
season ; electric lights and bells and all latest appointments intro- 
duced ; running water and toilet rooms on every floor ; perfect 
drainage ; bowling alley and billiard rooms in separate building ; 
adjacent pine grove with grounds for tennis, archery, etc.; commo- 
dious carriage house and stables ; orchestral music for the season. 
Opens early in June. 

• WEST HAMPTON— The Oneck House.— One of the oldest 
and best known houses on Long Island, located near the Great 
South Bay ; quiet, home-like atmosphere in the house ; lawn for 
tennis and croquet with abundant shade ; verandas on south and 
west sides ; large dancing hall ; good livery and stabling ; stages 
to and from stations ; bathing, sailing, rowing ; excellent table ; 
receives one hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $2.50 ; by the 
week, $12 to $15. Proprietor, Edwin C. Halsey, West Hamp- 
ton, L. I. 



XVII. 

NEW YORK AND CONNECTICUT vSHORE 



The north shore of the Sound is hardly less irregular and deeply 
indented than the opposite coast line of Long Island, and, like the 
latter, presents a picturesque alternation of headlands and bays, 



SUMMER RESORT GUI])E. 333 

rocky ledges and curving beachCvS. The bordering country is hilly 
and well wooded, sheltering many beautiful towns which are much 
favored as summer resorts. Among these are New Rochelle, 
seventeen miles from New York ; Mamaroneck (twenty miles) ; Rye 
Beach (twenty-four miles) ; Greenwich, Conn, (twenty-eight miles); 
Stamford (thirty-three miles); Bridgeport (fifty-six miles), where 
the Housatonic Valley debouches ; New Haven (seventy-three 
miles); Branford (eighty-one miles); vSaybrook (one hundred and 
five miles), at the mouth of the Connecticut river; New London 
(one hundred and twenty-four miles), at the mouth of the Thames, 
with many delightful intervening towns. All these are reached 
from the Grand Central Depot, New York, by the New York and 
New Haven railroad ; or bv boat. 



GREENWICH—lNDiAN Harbor Hotel.— On a bluff, with water 
frontage of five hundred feet ; porticoes one thousand feet in 
length ; dining-room detached from the main building, lined with 
hard wood, with ceiling thirty feet high ; separate kitchen ; cafe, 
billiard-room and bowling-alleys in detached buildings ; brick fire- 
proof stables ; gas, steam heat, electric bells ; pure filtered water, 
sanitary arrangements approved by experts ; sectioned bathing- 
beach ; thirty acres in shade trees ; orchestral music morning and 
evening ; yachting and fishing ; twenty trains daily and daily steam- 
boat ; receives three hundred guests. Open from June to October. 
Prices: — By the day, $3.50 ; by the week, single room $18 and up- 
ward ; for two, $35 and upward. B. H. Yard. 



NEW LONDON— Fort Grisvvold House.— On a bluff of the 
Sound, opposite Pequot Hoiise, New London, at the mouth of the 
harbor, overlooking the Thames boating course ; frontage of two 
hundred and six feet, with brick wing five stories in height ; from 
every room may be seen an animated water view ; verandas five 
hundred feet in length ; children's dining-room and children's play- 
room ; steam heat, open fireplaces, gas, electric bells ; elevator ; 
thorough plumbing ; elaborate fire-extinguishing apparatus ; or- 
chestral music ; bathing, boating and fishing ; billiards, tennis and 
croquet lawns ; beautiful drives ; steamers leave from the railroad 
wharf directly opposite the station ; a pleasant sail of ten minutes 
to the hotel wharf ; cottages furnished with hotel service. Open 
from June to September. Prices: — By the day, $3 to $4. 50 ; by the 
week $17.50 to $28. Special inducements to families. 



334 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

NEW LONDON— Pequot House and Cottages.— At the mouth 
of the Thames ; on the grounds are forty-four cottages, which, to- 
gether with the main house, are supplied with gas, baths, electric 
bells, etc. ; interconnection by telephone ; large parlors ; music 
every afternoon ; livery and private stables ; approved drainage 
system ; receives five hundred guests. Open early in June, Fur- 
nished cottages for the season at moderate rentals. 



BLACK ROCK BEACH— George Hotel.-— Fifteen minutes 
from Bridgeport, on a promontory forming the western boundary 
of Black Rock harbor ; a favorite rendezvous of yachtsmen ; wharf 
in front, five hundred feet, for use of guests only ; beautiful grounds 
of fifty acres, with large lawns ; bowling alleys ; good boating, 
fishing and bathing ; unexcelled drives ; gas, electric bells ; artes- 
ian wells, thorough drainage ; orchestral music three times daily ; 
good livery and stabling ; Wall street stock quotations received 
hourly; several beautiful cottages, with gas, running water, etc., 
for housekeeping, or hotel board supplied ; receives three hundred 
guests: commutation rates to New York $15 a month. Prices: — 
By the day, $3 and upwards ; by the week, single rooms, $15 to 
$25 ; double rooms, $28 to $45. 



GREEN'S FARMS— The Beachside.— At one of the most beau- 
tiful points on Long Island sound ; house enlarged and improved ; 
gas, electric bells ; billiards, bowling ; new dock ; bathing houses ; 
boats ; excellent table. James H. Phipps. 



XVIII. 

NARRAGANSETT BAY.— SOUTH MASSACHU- 
SETTS SHORES AND ISLANDS. 



The shore of Narragansett bay, which deeply indents the State 
of Rhode Island, is picturesquely broken up by headlands and 
rocks, between which lie beaches ; the inland scenery is varied and 
beautiful. Near the mouth of the bay, five miles from the ocean, lies 
Newport, the great fashionable seaside resort of America. Opposite 
Newport is Narragansett Pier, a much frequented resort, having a 
gently sloping beach with light surf. Half-way between Newport 
aad Providence lies Rocky Point, famous for its clambakes and its 
observatory, affording an extensive view over the bay. For New- 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 335 

port— Fall River line of boats, Pier 28, North River, or Shore line 
of New York and New Haven Railroad to Wickford, thence by 
ferry. For Narragansett Pier — New York and New Haven Rail- 
road (shore line) to Kensington, thence by branch railroad ; or by 
Stonington steamers to Stonington, thence by railway to Kingston, 
thence by branch road ; or by Fall River boats to Newport, thence 
by ferry. 

NEWPORT— OcEAx\ House.— On Bellevue avenue, the most 
fashionable thoroughfare of the city; convenient to the Casino ; 
wide and well-shaded verandas ; rooms single and in suites, luxuri- 
ously furnished ; spacious and lofty corridors, five wide stairways ; 
elevator ; grand salon and reception rooms opening on the veran- 
das ; dining-room, large and cool ; pure, filtered water ; baths ; 
sanitary engineer in constant attendance ; cuisine of the highest 
standard ; three orchestral concerts daily; fully equipped livery. 



NARRAGANSETT PIER— The Mathewson. — One of the 
finest locations at the Pier, but a few rods from the Casmo and 
beach ; hot and cold, fresh and sea water baths ; separate elevators 
for passengers and baggage ; electric lights and electric bells in 
every room ; perfect sanitation ; pure spring water ; French cuisine; 
rooms single or in suites ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 
Prices: — By the day, $3 to $5; by the week, $21 to $40. Proprietor, 
S. W. Mathewson, Narragansett Pier, R. I. 

WATCH HILL, R. I.— Ocean House.— Hotel stands on the 
highest ground, overlooking the ocean and part of Narragansett 
Bay — noted for the tonic effect of its invigorating sea air ; all modern 
conveniences ; best sanitary appliances ; pure filtered water ; 
abundance of milk, cream and fresh vegetables from large farm ; 
music ; outdoor amusements ; bathing, fishing and sailing ; re- 
ceives two hundred and fifty guests. Prices : — By the week, $17.50 
to $30 for single rooms ; $35 to $50 for double rooms ; special rates 
for the season and reduced rates for June and September. 



WESTPORT POINT— Hotel Westport.— A point of land be- 
tween the east and west branches of Westport River, an ocean 
inlet half way between Narragansett Bay and Buzzard's Bay, faced 
by Horseneck Beach ; fourteen to sixteen miles by stage from Fall 
River or New Bedford, a new house on high ground, commanding 



336 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

ocean views from Block Island to Martha's Vineyard; wide halls 
and stairways ; electric-bells ; bath rooms ; perfect • drainage ; 
guests conveyed to and from the beach free of charge ; well- 
equipped boats and competent skippers ; sea bass, tautog, perch 
and other fish abound ; sword fish off the Point. Prices : — By the 
day, for less than one week, $3 ; by the week, $12 to $16 ; special 
rates for the season, or when two persons occupy one room. 



BLOCK ISLAND — Ocean View Hotel. — Ten miles oft^ the 
coast of Rhode Island ; accessible by steamer from New London ; 
telegraphic connection with the mainland ; gas, electric bells ; 
music hall, with stage ; verandas one-third of a mile in length ; 
surf and still- water bathing ; hot sea baths ; cable to mainland ; 
string and brass orchestra ; receives five hundred guests. Prices: — 
By the day, before Jnly 15 and after September i, $2.50 to $4 ; after 
July T2 to end of August, $3 to $4.50 ; special rates for the season. 



BLOCK ISLAND — Hotel Manisses. — Near the steamboat 
landing, with fine ocean view ; thorough drainage and most im- 
proved system of plumbing ; fire hose on every floor ; electric 
bells and other modern appointments ; music hall and orchestra ; 
livery and boarding stables ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. 



NANTUCKET ISLAND— The Springfield.— Thirty miles off 
the coast ; near the northern limit of the Gulf stream ; oldest sum.- 
mer resort hotel on the island ; on the shores of Nantucket harbor 
within five minutes' walk of steamboat landing, the island railway 
station, post office, etc.; the main building recently enlarged; 
lighted with gas and electricity ; running water and closets on 
every floor ; heated by steam ; electric bells, etc. ; two annexes 
supplied with the same modern conveniences ; dining-room separ- 
ate from the houses, and lighted by electricity ; telephone connec- 
tions ; submarine cable to the mainlr nd ; hard, smooth beach with 
bath-houses. Open all the year. Prices: — By the day, $2.50 to 
$3.50 : special rates by the season and in June and September. 



NANTUCKET— The Nantucket.— Situated directly on the 
beach, the parlor on the second floor commanding a water view on 
four sides ; stage for theatrical and other entertainments ; excur- 
sions by the hotel steam yacht. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. Wl 

XIX. 

EASTERN SHORE. 



The Eastern Shore, by which name the Atlantic coast of the 
United States north of Boston is designated, derives its broken and 
picturesque character from the fact that the mountam system, 
which farther to the south recedes from the coast, here abuts upon 
or dips down to the ocean's edge, producing deep mdentations, 
rocky headlands and numerous outlying islands. Notable among 
these islands is Mount Desert, in Frenchman's Bay on the coast of 
Maine, an assemblage of mountam peaks, the highest of which 
reaches two thousand feet. The Eastern Shore is interspersed 
with beaches affording good surf bathing. Accessible from Boston 
by Boston and Maine Railway and its branches. Steamers, run- 
ning from Boston to Portland, touch at various landings. 



NAHANT — Hood Hotel. — Largest house in Nahant ; pictur- 
esquely situated on elevated ground on the south side t)f the pro- 
montory, a short distance from the steamboat landing and in the 
neighborhood of many elegant summer residences ; large airy 
rooms ; extensive piazzas ; excellent cuisine and service ; tennis ; 
bathing and fishing ; rooms, single or in suite ; good livery and 
stable ; excellent cuisine and table service ; xmder the present 
management for the last four seasons ; feceives one hundred 
guests. -Open June 15 to September 15. Prices : — By the day. $3; 
by the week. $15 t(^ $25 ; children under 14. half rates. 



MARBLEHEAD — Tiit Nanei'ashemei. — Fitteen miles from 
Boston by Eastern Railroad ; on Great Neck, a rocky peninsula con- 
nected by a narrow beach with the mainland; highest point be- 
tween the ocean and Marblehead Harbor ; rendezvous of the East- 
em Yacht Club ; every room has ocean view ; wide verandas on 
three sides ; gas, electric bells, running water and perfect drain- 
age ; yachting, boating, tennis, bathing, shore and deep sea fish- 
ing ; fine walks and drives ; telegraph ; liverj' and private stabling; 
receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. Prices : — By 
the day, $3.50 to $4 ; special rates "by the season, or for one month 



338^ SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

or more preceding August i. Proprietor, Dr. Ammi Brown, 
Marblehead Neck, Mass. Address, until June i, 486 Columbus 
avenue, Boston, Mass. 

BEACHMONT— Hotel Beachmont.— A select family hotel, 
twenty minutes distant from Boston by half-hourly trains of 
Boston, Revere and Lynn Railroad ; within easy reach of the sea- 
side resorts on north and south shores of Boston Bay ; refurnished 
and refitted with electric lights, hot and cold water baths, etc.; 
broad piazzas on three sides ; ample, well shaded grounds ; lawn 
tennis; beautiful country drives. Prices : — By the day, $2.50; by 
the week, for the season, $7 to $14. Address Beachmont, Mass. 



MAGNOLIA— The Blvnman.— vSituated on high ground, with fine 
views of the ocean and surrounding country, combining sea-shore and 
woodland scenery ; twenty-seven miles from Boston by the Boston 
& Maine Railroad ; carriages to all trains ; spacious piazzas ; airy, 
comfortable rooms ; water on every floor ; gas ; open fires ; new 
plumbing and. perfect drainage ; pure water and medicinal spring 
on grounds ; table supplied from farm connected with the house ; 
fine sandy beach for surf bathing ; boating ; fishing; pleasant 
drives. ' Prices : — By the week, for rooms, $6 to $14 ; additional for 
board, $9 for each person. Address Magnolia, Essex County, 
Mass. 



NANTASKET BEACH— Rockland House.— On high ground 
commanding extensive ocean view; all modern appointments ; gas, 
elevator, steam heat ; pure water and perfect drainage ; bath 
rooms, steam laundry ; billiard hall, music and ball room ; orches- 
tral music ; telegraph office ; fully equipped stable ; surf and still 
water bathing, boating and fishing ; beautiful drives and walks ; 
tennis courts and ball ground ; hourly trains and boats from 
Boston ; receives three hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; 
by the week, $17.50 to $25 f(jr single rooms ; $30 to $45 for double 
rooms ; special rates to families. 



LAND'S END — Turk's Head Lnn. — At the extremity of Cape 
Ann ; all modern conveniences ; recent improvements include a 
casino for music and dancing, new stables for tally-ho coaches 
which will run from the hotel, and new tennis court orchestra en- 
gaged for the season. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 339 

NEWCASTLE— The Wentworth.— Three miles from Ports- 
mouth, N. H., on an island rising seventy-five feet above the sea ; 
extensive and varied views seaward and inland from the two hun- 
dred sleeping rooms and the veranda ; the latter fifteen feet wide 
and one th(.»usand feet long, the former large and well-furnished ; 
steam elevator ; boating, bathing, fishing, -for which there is ample 
equipment ; steam yacht, provided for ocean and river excursions ; 
a broad lagoon, with an area of fifty acres, affording safe boating, 
and upon which a small steamboat plies ; music hall for dancing, 
concerts, etc. ; band of twenty musicians engaged for the season ; 
livery and private stabling ; telegraph stock reports from New 
York and Boston by independent wires. Prices : — By the day, 
$4.50; by the week, single rooms, $25 to $42 ; for two, $40 to $56. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 



ISLES OF SHOALS— The Oceanic— Group of nine beautiful 
islands, ten miles ofi" the coast from Portsmouth, N. H., whence 
steamers for the islands make four trips daily, connecting with 
trams. The Oceanic is on the highest point of vStar Island, whose 
shores are especially bold and grand ; all rooms have an ocean 
view ; gas, electric bells ; open fire-places in parlor and office ; ball- 
room ; billiard-room, bowling-alley, circulating library ; hot and 
cold salt and fresh water baths on every floor ; milk and cream from 
a special mainland farm ; orchestra for the season ; fishing and 
other boats manned by experienced skippers ; no flies or mosqui- 
toes ; freedom from fog and dampness ; temperature remarkable 
for its equability, ranging about seventy degrees ; the hotel grounds 
include the entire island, the native proprietors having been 
bought out. Open June to October. Prices : — By the day, $3.50 ; by 
the week, $21 ; by the month, $17.50 a week. Proprietors, 
Laighton Brothers, Isles of Shoals, N. H. 



ISLES OF SHOALS— Appledore House.— Appledore, the 
largest of these islands, has an extent of three hundred and fifty 
acres, and rises in parallel ridges seventy-five feet above the sea. 
In the valley thus formed are the Appledore House and its group 
of attractive cottages ; a shallow lake in front of the house offers 
safe bathing and boating for children ; gas, electric bells, etc.; fleet 
of boats ; bowling and billiards ; tennis grounds ; music and dancing 
hall, with stage, and well-selected orchestra ; hot salt water baths ; 
physician in attendance ; steam ferry makes half-hourly tripii to 



340 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 

Star Island ; connection by steamer with Boston one trip daily ; 
with Portsmouth four trips daily ; receives five hundred guests. 
Open June 20 to September 20. Prices : — By the day, $3. 75 ; by the 
week, $3.25 per day ; two weeks, $3 per day ; four weeks or more, 
$2.50 a day. Preprietors, Laighton Brothers, Isles of Shoals, 
X. H. 



KITTERY POINT— Hotel Pocahontas.— On Gerrish Island 
— an island of two thousand acres at the mouth of the Pisca- 
taqua river ; hotel stands on Pocahontas Point — a promontory 
having on one side a bold rocky coast, on the other a hard, smooth 
beach ; ocean or river and inland view from every window ; sanitary 
effects of the sea air and pme woods combined ; parlors, dining and 
smoking-rooms, with open fire-places ; perfect drainage ; grounds 
of one hundred and eighty acres ; a steamboat and carriages will 
connect with the morning and evening trains at Portsmouth, half 
an hour distant. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by the week, $12 to $21 ; 
special rates for June and September. ^ Address Kittery Point, 
Maine, 



BAR HARBOR— The Louisburg.— The leading resort of Mount 
Desert Island, combining the cottage features of Newport with the 
hotel life of the great watering places ; the village, situated on the 
shore at the base of a group of mountains ; water supply drawn 
from a mountain lake fed by living springs ; perfect drainage in 
connection with Bar Harbor's new and approved system of sewer- 
age ; elevator ; lighted throughout by electricity ; wide verandas 
and roof promenade ; receives two hundred guests ; highest stan- 
dard of cuisine ; music by a Boston orchestra. Open July i to 
September 15. Prices : — By the day, before July 15 and after Sep- 
tember I, $4 and $4.50 ; from July 15 to September i, $5 ; by the 
week, $25 and upwards ; special rates by the season. Address Bar 
Harbor, Mount Desert, Me. 

CASTINE — The Acadian. — A pretty village with wide streets 
and fine residences on a peninsula projecting into Penobscot bay ; 
accessible by the Bar Harbor steamer from Portland ; the locality 
is famous for its traditions of old Indian and colonial wars ; its 
summer attractions are its seclusion, picturesque surroundings 
and boating and fishing facilities. The Acadian is pleasantly situ- 
ated by the sea ; large rooms with best beds ; electric bells ; pure 
spring water. Prices : — By the day, $2.50 ; by the week, $10 to $15. 
Proprietor, Acadian Hotel Company. 



SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 341 

SORRENTO— Hotel Sorrento.— In Frenchman's bay, seven 
miles from Bar Harbor ; a newly established resort, picturesquely 
situated on the shore and laid out in attractive cottage sites by the 
" Frenchman's Bay and Mount Desert Land and Water Company," 
which has availed itself of the services of skilful architects and 
landscape gardeners. Hotel newly built, with all modern appoint- 
ments ; lighted throughout with electricity ; complete livery ; 
choice cuisine. 



XX. 

THE WEST. 



DENVER, COLORADO— Hotel Metropole.— At the foot 
of the Rocky Mountains, in a dry climate long known for its re- 
markable remedial qualities in pulmonary complaints. The hotel, 
a new structure, is located on the principal avenue in Denver, con- 
venient to both the business and residence portion of the city ; 
accessible to two cable lines ; an imposing building in the Ionian 
style, nine stories high, built of the finest red pressed brick, terra- 
cotta and electro-plated metal steel beams used throughout ; parti- 
tions, floors and ceilings of hollow tile ; stairways and elevators of 
iron and bronze, making it absolutely fire-proof ; intended for an 
elegant home and resting place for the large number of travellers, 
tourists and health seekers' that now visit Denver ; appointments, 
cuisine and service cf the best kind. Restaurant and cafe a la 
carte. Rates according to the accommodations desired, ranging 
from $1.50 per day upward. Managers. Bush c^- Kapplcr. 



DENVER, COL. — Brown Palace Hotel. — A nine-stury struc- 
ture, in the Italian Renaissance style, decorated and furnished 
throughout with lavish expenditure, frontage i^f eight hundred 
and twenty feet ; the entire interior composed of iron columns 
and steel beams, supporting hollow tile partitions, and flooring 
of encaustic tile, making it practically fire-proof ; the rotunda an 
open court fifty-six feet square, rising one hundred and twenty 
feet to roof of the eighth floor, and surrounded by balconies ; a 
panorama embracing three hundred miles of mountain scenery 
seen from the windows of the hotel ; four hundred rooms, a large 
number en suite, with baths, every room facing the street ; artesian 



342 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 

water, electric lights ; most approved sanitary methods, and all the 
latest devices for comfort and convenience. Conducted on the 
American plan. Prices : By the day, $3 to $5, according to loca- 
tion. Managers, William H. Bush and N. Maxcy Tabor, Denver, 
Col. 



ST. CLAIR, MICH.— SoMERViLLE Springs.— On the banks of 
the St. Clair river, about fifty miles north of Detroit, with view 
of the river and surrounding country for miles ; all modern con- 
veniences -, steam elevator ; electric lights in every room ; excel- 
lent fishing, hunting and boating ; delightful drives ; mineral 
springs possessing valuable medicinal properties on the grounds : 
receives two hundred guests. Open all the year. Prices : — By the 
day, $2 to $2.50; special rates for season. Address Somerville 
Springs Company, St. Clair, Mich. 



MINNETONKA BEACH, MINN.— Hotel Lafayette.— Located 

on elevated plateau, on northern shore of lake ; a house of the 
first class and one of the largest hotels of summer resort in the 
Northwest ; one-fifth of a mile in length ; five acres of floor sur- 
face ; reached by hourly trains from St. Paul and Minneapolis ; 
high standard of service in every department ; electric lights ; 
gas ; elevator ; steam heat ; perfect drainage ; boating, sailing, 
rowing and fishing ; tennis grounds ; wide veranda and balconies ; 
lawn with shrubbery and forest trees ; pure and dry air ; orchestra, 
daily concerts, evening hops ; receives eight hundred guests. Open 
in June. Prices : — by the day, $4 to $5. Special rates for week, or 
season. Address E. V. Holcombe, Manager, St. Paul, Minn., 
until June i, then at Minnetonka Beach. 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE 
189^-4. 



INDEX TO CHAPTERS. 



I. — Florida Peninsula. 
11. — Georgia Uplands. 
III. — Georgia Seaside. 
IV. — South Carolina Pine Lands. 
V. — North Carolina Mountains. 
VI. — Virginia Mountains. 
VTI. — Virginia Seaside. 
VIII. — Maryland. 
IX. — New Jersey Seaside. 
X. — New Jersey Pine Bhlt. 
XL — Island Res(.)RTs. 
XII. — California. 
XIII. — The Southwest. 



344 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

I- 

FLORIDA PENINSULA. 



ST. AUGUSTINE.— Oldest of American cities, still retaining 
many of its early Spanish features ; visited by all Florida tourists 
and frequented by health-seekers ; on the coast, forty miles south 
of the mouth of St. John's river and thirty-three miles from Jackson- 
ville from which it is accessible by railway. 



ST. AUGUSTINE— The Ponce de Leon.— This celebrated 
hotel — a masterpiece of architecture — attracts to itself as well as 
St. Augustine, throngs of Florida visitors. Built massively of 
gray shell concrete, elaborately trimmed with brick and terra cotta 
ornamentations in the Spanish Renaissance style of architecture ; 
with overhanging balconies, grand interior courts, arcade vistas 
and a rotunda four stories in height, supported by Caryatides 
and a forest of oaken columns, with a dome rich in allegorical 
painting ; with towers one hundred and thirty-five feet high. 
These are a few of the features of a house it is impossible to de- 
scribe in a brief paragraph, the attractiveness of which has in- 
creased rather than diminished during its five successful seasons. 
The building covers nearly six acres ; the grand drawing room is 
one hundred and five by sixty feet ; the dining room extends one 
hundred feet on either side of a domed centre, and accommodates 
seven hundred guests. 



The Alcazar, an adjunct of the Ponce de Leon, but in itself a 
complete hotel, is planned on the same scale of magnificence and 
built after the same architectural style. Its special features are 
its concert rooms, cafe, casino, tennis courts, Russian and Turkish 
baths, and a bathing pool one hundred and fifty by seventy feet, 
over which are galleries for dancing ; receives four hundred guests ; 
twenty-five acres of ornamented grounds, luxuriant in semi-tropi- 
cal foliage, surround these hotels. Prices, at the Ponce de Leon : — 
By the day, $5 and upwards ; at the Alcazar, $4 and upwards ; 
special rates by the week. Manager, O. D. Seavey, also manager 
of Hotel Champlain. Clinton Co., N. Y. 



ST. AUGUSTINE— Hotel Cordova.— Faces the Ponce de Leon 
and the Alcazar, modeled on the rich Spanish architecture of the 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 345 

fifteenth century ; built massively of shell concrete, ornamented on 
its front fa9ade with tiles imported from Valencia, which also deco- 
rate the numerous stone balconies ; the lower range of windows 
set off with the Angelo kneeling balconies, after those of Seville, 
relieved by flowing draperies in warm colors ; the imposing en- 
trance, suggested by the celebrated " Puerto del Sol " at Toledo, 
leads into an open court, perfumed by orange trees and adorned 
by new and beautiful tropical plants ; adjoining the drawing-room 
is a " sala del sol " one hundred and eight feet long, with pavement 
of tiles and roof of glass, supported by many columns ; a hall of di- 
version decorated in Saracenic style ; two hundred guest chambers 
in suites, with private parlors and baths ; gas, electric lights, sun 
parlor, elevator and all the appliances of modern hotels ; the gov- 
ernment grounds facing the Cordova have been laid out artistically 
to form Cordova Park ; receives four hundred gtiests. Prices : — 
By the day, $4.00 ; special rates by the week. Manager, O. D. 
Seavey, also manager of Hotel Champlain, Clinton Co., N. Y. 



ST. AUGUSTINE— Hotel St. Marco.— One of the largest and 
best appointed of St. Augustine's hotels ; m the midst of thirty 
acres of handsome grounds ; situated opposite the old Spanish 
fort, on highest ground in the city ; many improvements and a 
thorough renovation last year. Every room open to sunlight and 
good air ; spacious verandas commanding a magnificent view of 
the bay ; gas and modern appointments ; unexcelled facilities for 
boating, bathing, hunting, riding and fishing ; a four-horse stage 
meets all trains ; receives five hundred guests. Prices : — By the 
day, $4.50 to $5. Special weekly rates. Managers : Ainslie & 
Webster, St. Augustine, Fla. Managers also of the Maplewood, 
White Mountains. N. H. 



ON THE HALIFAX— The Ormond.— Eighty miles south ot 
St. Augustine, on the Halifax peninsula, a strip of land half a mile 
wide between the ocean and "the Halifax," an ocean inlet; the 
peninsula is rich in semi-tropical vegetation ; accessible by railway 
in two and a half hours from St. Augustine ; the starting point by 
morning boat from hotel wharf for the east coast trip of two hun- 
dred miles in smooth land-locked waters to Rockledge and Lake 
Worth ; house enlarged and many improvements added, making it 
one of the best appointed hotels in the South ; stands amid orange 
groves; large bedrooms furnished in modern style; gas, electric 
bells, steam heat and open fire-places ; two artesian wells and two 



346 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

immense cisterns for filtered rain water ; thorough sanitary ar- 
rangements ; a large casino contains ball-room, theatre, billiard, 
pool rooms, bowling-alley, etc.; good fishing, surf bathing and 
driving ; skillful service by attendants brought from White Moun- 
tain hotels ; no bar. Open December to May. Prices : — ^By the 
day, $4.50 to $5.00. The Coquina, a smaller house under same 
management, on Ormond Beach. Prices — By the week, $15 to $18. 
Proprietors, Anderson & Price, Ormond, Volusia County, Fla. 



JACKSONVILLE.— The largest city of Florida; twenty-five 
miles from the mouth of the St. John's ; much frequented by win- 
ter tourists, and the point of departure for most of the leading 
Florida resorts; accessible by Atlantic Coast Line Fast Mail 
Route, whose vestibuled train of drawing-room, sleeping, dining 
and library cars, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, leaves 
Pennsylvania station, Jersey City, Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday, at 9.30 a.m., and arrives at Jacksonville on the following 
day at 3.00 P.M.; St. Augustine at 4.15 p.m. 



JACKSONVILLE— The St. James.— One of the largest hotels in 
the State, with piazza front of three hundred and fifteen feet; de- 
lightfully situated, facing the city park ; steam heated halls and 
corridors ; open fire-places in rooms ; gas, electric bells, elevator ; 
bath-rooms on every floor ; rooms in suites with private bath, 
large and elegant parlors and dining-room ; grounds lighted by 
electricity ; filtered rain water for drinking ; thorough plumbing ; 
orchestral music for the season ; well-equipped livery ; receives 
five hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $4. Proprietor, J. R. 
Campbell; Manager, C. O. Chamberlain. 



JACKSONVILLE— Windsor Hotel. — Fronts two hundred 
feet on the city park ; elegant suites with private baths ; elevator, 
steam heat, gas ; thorough plumbing, with special sewer to the 
river ; closets copiously flushed every two or three minutes by water 
from an artesian well ; billiards ; best beds and latest styles of fur- 
niture ; parlor one hundred by forty feet ; orchestral music after- 
noon and evening; receives four hundred guests. Open from De- 
cember to May. Prices : — By the day, $4 and upwards ; by the 
week, $21 and upwards ; same advantages at same prices as at 
Northern summer resorts equally attractive. Proprietor, A. H. 
Palmer. 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 347 

WINTER PARK— The Seminole.— A park of four thousand 
acres of high, rolling land, covered with pines, which stand far 
enough apart to permit teams to be driven anywhere at will ; one 
hundred and twenty miles south of Jacksonville on the South Flori- 
da Railroad ; forty miles from the Atlantic and eighty miles from 
the gulf coast. The hotel stands between two lakes, half a mile 
apart, the grounds sloping to the shores of both ; a steamboat 
makes a tour of the lakes twice daily ; from the roof promenade 
eleven lakes may be seen sparkling amid the pines and orange 
trees ; verandas five hundred and sixty-seven feet long, from six- 
teen to twenty-four feet wide ; steam heat, gas, elevator, electric 
bells, fire alarms ; hot and cold water and steam baths ; large bed- 
rooms, single and in suites, many of them with open fire-places and 
private baths ; fishing, rowing, sailing, billiards, bowling ; fine or- 
chestra day and evening ; excellent cuisine ; same mail facilities at 
Winter Park as at St. Augustine and Jacksonville. House accomo- 
dates four hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; special terms 
for two weeks or longer. Resident manager, D. P. Hathaway. 
New York office, 12 West Twenty-third street. 



GREEN COVE SPRINGS.— The village of Green Cove is situ- 
ated on high ground, bordering the St. John's, thirty miles south 
of Jacksonville, at a point where the river has a width of five miles. 
The spring from which the village takes its name is of warm sul- 
phur water and gushes up in a grove of live oaks, palmettos and 
magnolias at the rate of three thousand gallons per minute, at a 
temperature of seventy-eight degrees. The water is conducted 
into four separate swimming pools, twenty-five by seventy-five 
feet, bordered by dressing-rooms. Accessible by daily steamer or 
by railway from Jacksonville. 



GREEN COVE SPRINGS— Hotel vSt. Elmo.— Beautifully 
situated on west bank of the St. John's river, forming a delightful 
and homelike retreat for the invalid or those who are seeking rest : 
house provided with an artesian well and all modern conveniences ; 
a private bath-house for use of the guests secured at the medical 
Green Cove spring. Prices : — By the day, $3 ; by the week, $12 Xo 
$22. Proprietor, P. A. Borden; manager, Judson L. Scott. 



PALATKA. — On the St. John's, sixty miles from Jacksonvillt- 
and thirty miles from St. Augustine ; easily accessible by b<iai 



848 WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 

and train ; it has gas works, water works, good brick and plank 
walks and streets shaded with palm, oak and sour orange trees ; 
called often " the gem city of the St. John's." 



PALATKA— Putnam House.— An attractive and comfortable 
winter home, recently refitted and improved ; occupying an entire 
square, with spacious interior court filled with flowers and plants ; 
broad verandas ; abundant supply of pure soft water ; elevator, 
steam heat, parlor suites, rooms with bath attached ; boating, 
fishing, duck and alligator shooting ; tennis and croquet grounds ; 
frequent excursions by steamers to points of interest ; telegraph 
office in hotel. Prices : — $4 per day and upward ; one hundred 
pleasant rooms at $21 per week for each person. Manager, Wil- 
liam Catto, Palatka, Fla. 



TAMPA — The Inn and Restaurant. — Terminus, on the Gulf, 
of South Florida railway ; point of departure of the Plant line of 
steamers for Key West and Havana. The Inn, a beautiful Queen 
Anne cottage erected on piles over the waters of the bay, of which 
it commands lovely views ; dining-room with glass on three sides ; 
comfortable in its appointments either for a temporary sojourn en 
route for Cuba or for a prolonged stay ; every facility for aquatic 
sport. Open all the year. Manager, J. H. King. New York office, 
12 West Tw^enty-third street. 



TAMPA— Tampa Bay Hotel. — A magnificent new structure, of 
Moorish design, with broad galleries along the front of the house, 
and grand hallway seven hundred feet long ; parlors and drawing- 
room decorated in palatial style ; a rotunda seventy-eight feet 
square with massive doors of Spanish mahogany ; music room ; 
cuisine and table service equal to any hotel in the world ; every 
modern convenience for the enjoyment of winter life in a balmy, 
summer atmosphere ; guest rooms and suites of apartments, with 
parlors and libraries. Manager, J. H. King. New York office, 12 
West Twenty-third street. 

ALTAMONTE SPRINGS— The Altamonte.— Situated in the 
highlands of Florida, nine miles from Orlando, six miles from 
Winter Park, and one hundred and fifteen miles south of Jackson- 
ville ; ninety feet above vSt. John's river, in extensive pine and 
orange groves; near two clear water lakes, affording abundant 
opportimity for gunning and fishing: on one of these. Lake 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 349 

Orienta, a steam launch has been placed ; a modern built hotel, 
with many improvements since last season, and a recent addition 
of twenty-five rooms ; heated by steam and with open fire-places 
in many of the rooms ; billiards, bowling, telegraph, etc. ; connec- 
tion by horse-cars, with station on South Florida Railroad a half- 
mile distant ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open until 
April 15. Prices: — By the day, $3.50; by the week, $17.50. Pro- 
prietor, H. W. Priest, also of the Forest Hills Hotel, Franconia, 
N. H. 

DE LAND AND LAKE HELEN— Harlan House.— De Land 
IS five miles east of the St. John's, from which it is accessible, also 
accessible directly by railway from Jacksonville ; a beautiful town, 
which takes its name from its founder, H. A. De Land ; ample 
space, with park-like stretches of pine forest and orange grove, in 
which visitors from the North have built themselves pretty cot- 
tages ; offers unusual educational facilities. The neighboring- 
Lake Helen is accessible by railway from Blue Springs landing on 
the St. John's ; also by railway from New Smyrna on the Jackson- 
ville, St. Augustine and Indian River Railroad ; the lake is remark- 
able for the semi-tropical beauty of its environment. De Land 
has several hotels and Lake Helen has two. The Harlan House at 
the latter place is situated in a pine grove and overlooks the lake ; 
a modern built house, with the latest appointments, and elegantly 
furnished ; billiards, bowling, tennis ; upholstered boats on the lake 
free to guests ; receives 100 guests. Prices : — By the day, $2 to 
$2. 50. 

II. 

CtEorgl\ uplands. 



THOMASVILLE. — A small, beautiful " garden city," having a 
population of about five thousand ; in the highest parts of the 
Georgia upland, twelve miles from Florida line, fifty-five miles 
from the Gulf of Mexico ; accessible by New York and Savannah 
steamers to Savannah, thence in a few hours by the Savannah, 
Florida and Western railway ; or by the elegant vestibule trains of 
the Atlantic Coast Line Fast Mail Route (Pennsylvania station, 
Jersey City), in thirty-eight hours; sandy soil, drying within an 
hour after the heaviest rain ; few days in winter when one cannot 
saunter with comfort in the open air ; beautiful drives thnmgh the 
pine woods. 



350 WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 

THOMASVILLE— PiNEY Woods Hotel.— Within three min- 
utes' walk of the business centre of the town, fronting for four 
hundred feet on " Paradise Park," a fine forest of eighty acres laid 
out in rambles and drives ; wide and lofty verandas and projecting 
towers ; Otis elevator ; gas, electric bells, steam heat and open 
fire-places ; artesian well one thousand nine hundred feet deep ; 
approved plumbing and perfect drainage ; suites with private 
baths ; billiards, bowling, tennis courts, etc. ; livery with Kentucky 
saddle horses ; orchestral music ; receives three hundred guests. 
Prices : — By the day, $4 and upward ; special rates by the week. 
Proprietor, M. A. Bower. Manager, William E. Davies. 



THOMASVILLE — The Mitchell House.— A large, massive 
house of brick ; faces a pretty park ; main dining-room fifty-two by 
seventy-five feet ; verandas eighteen to twenty-eight feet wide ; ro- 
tunda fifty-three feet in height ; large bedrooms, with ample 
clothes-presses, open fire-places for wood fires, and hot and cold 
water; rooms in suites with private baths ; wide staircases ; hard- 
wood finish throughout ; gas, electric bells ; artesian well one thou- 
sand nine hundred feet deep ; bowling, billiards, kennels for dogs ; 
decorations and furniture by New York art decorators. Prices : — 
By the day, $4 and upwards ; special rates by the week or for 
suites with private bath. Manager, George M, Tilton. 



III. 

GEORGIA SEASIDE. 



BRUNSWICK— The Oglethorpe.— A beautiful city by the sea, 
sixty miles south of Savannah and seventy miles north of Jackson- 
ville, a city of parks with trees of live oak, magnolia and bay, and 
pine forests, the neighboring country famous for its game — deer, 
wild turkey, foxes, etc. Parlor car service between Brunswick and 
Way Cross, connecting with all through trains between the East 
and Jacksonville. The Oglethorpe is a new house, opened four 
years ago ; substantially built of brick, on the highest land in the 
city, surrounded with spacious grounds ; main building two hun- 
dred and sixty-seven feet in front, faced by a Corinthian porch ; 
large rotunda tiled with marble, opening m the rear on a circular 
balcony which aftords a beautiful view of the bay ; dining-room 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 351 

fifty by seventy-five feet ; grand parlor seventy by thirty-two feet; 
parlor and reception rooms beautifully furnished and decorated, 
having artistically carved mantels ; rooms in suites, with private 
baths ; complete fire alarm arrangements and disciplined fire ser- 
vice ; an artesian well supplies three hundred and seventy-five 
gallons per minute ; receives three hundred guests. Fifth season. 
Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $21 and $25. Manager 
Warren Leland, Jr. 



SAVANNAH— The De Soto. A building of great architectural 
beauty, occupying, with its inner court, an entire block, fronting 
on Liberty street, with its semi-tropical plaza, on Monterey square, 
and near the famous Forsyth Park, embracing acres of forest trees 
and flowers ; wide piazzas and promenades ; three hundred rooms 
with front views ; furnished and finished throughout in solid oak 
and cherry, the drawing-rooms, parlors and many suites hung 
with expensive tapestry, silk and lace ; a dining-room which seats 
four hundred, and breakfast-room for fifty guests ; large gymna- 
sium ; handsomely furnished sanitarium ; electric lights, with gas 
always in reserve ; electric bells and return calls in every room ; 
separate elevators for porters and servants ; cuisine supplied from 
the best tropical, semi-tropical and Northern markets ; accommo- 
dates five hundred guests ; special rates for families or parties re- 
maining a week or longer. Managers, Watson & Powers. 



IV. 

SOUTH CAROLINA PINE LANDS. 



AIKEN. — Thirty-one hours from New York, without change, by 
the Pennsylvania and connected railroads ; one hundred and twen- 
ty miles from Charleston, on an elevated plateau, between six and 
seven hundred feet above the sea, encircled by forests of pine ; a 
beautiful town of broad streets, with houses surrounded by gar- 
dens of fruit trees, vines and shrubbery ; pure and dry air impreg- 
nated with the odor of the pines ; average winter temperature, 
forty-six degrees. 



AIKEN— Highland Park Hotel.— Situated on elevated ground 
on the borders of a park of three hundred and fifty acres, laid out 
in walks and drives leading through groves of pines and other 



352 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

trees ; bedrooms and parlors in suites, with sunny exposure ; open 
fire-places supplied with oak and resinous pine wood ; gas, electric 
bells ; pure spring water ; bathrooms on every floor ; passenger 
elevator ; billiard-room, ladies' billiard-room ; bowling-alley, tennis 
court ; well-equipped stables, with well-trained saddle-horses ; 
dairy farm ; excellent cuisine ; receives three hundred guests. 
Proprietor, B. P. Chatfield. 



NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAINS. 



ASHEVILLE.— A city of eight thousand inhabitants, at the con- 
fluence of the Swannanoa and French Broad rivers, at an eleva- 
tion of two thousand five hundred feet ; the central point of the 
great mountain region of North Carolina, which is bounded on the 
east by the Blue Ridge, on the west by the Alleghanies, and is 
crossed by transverse ranges ; within a day's excursion of Mount 
Mitchell, the highest summit east of the Mississippi ; winter climate 
mild — the snow seldom remaining long even on the highest sum- 
mits ; accessible from New York in twenty-four hours, without 
change, by the Piedmont Air line (Pennsylvania railroad station, 
Jersey City). 

ASHEVILLE— Battery Park Hotel.— An exceedingly pictu- 
resque edifice, built a few years ago ; stands on the site of an old con- 
federate breastworks, having a frontage of more than three hundred 
feet ; elevation two thousand eight hundred feet ; one hundred feet 
above the city, commanding a mountain view miles in extent, and 
pronounced one of the grandest in America ; average winter tem- 
perature fifty degrees ; hotel heated by steam and open fire- 
places ; lighted wholly by electricity ; hydraulic elevator, electric 
bells ; baths on every floor ; music hall, ladies' billiard parlor and 
bowling-alley ; well-equipped livery, saddle horses. Open all the 
year. Manager, E. X. McKissick. 



ASHEVILLE — Kenilworth Inn. — On an elevated plateau, 
two thousand six hundred feet above sea level, surrounded by a 
natural park of one hundred and sixty acres ; Pullman car service 
via Pennsylvania Railroad ; dry, invigorating climate, entirely free 
from dampness ; large rooms, all open to outside light and air ; 
seventy rooms connected with private baths ; fan system, of heating, 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 353 

forcing a current of pure air throughout the house ; all modern 
conveniences, pure water, electric light, billiards, bowling, tennis ; 
best sanitary arrangements ; superior cuisine ; excellent livery ; 
picturesque walks and drives. Prices : — By the day^ $4 to $5 ; by 
the week, $17.50 and upwards; special rates to families by the 
month. Managers, Rhodes & Browning, Asheville, N. C. 



HOT SPRINGS— Mountain Park Hotel.— A village of three 
hundred inhabitants, in the valley of the French Broad river, thirty- 
seven miles northwest of Asheville, on the Western North Carolina 
road ; twenty-six hours from New York by the Pennsylvania road 
and connections ; on a plateau forming a natural park, surrounded 
by pine-covered mountains ; air dry, bracing and free from 
malaria ; the springs have a temperature of ninety-six to one hun- 
dred and four degrees, and their waters are conducted into a 
bathing house which contains a large swimming pool, 100 x 30 feet, 
and sixteen marble basins 9x6 feet, surrounded by dressing-rooms 
provided with cots for resting and electric call-bell to summon at- 
tendants ; the water is also conducted into bath-rooms in the hotel, 
a building completed four years ago ; one hundred and seventy-five 
bedrooms, furnished in cherry and ash, every window looking out 
upon beautiful river and mountain scenery ; large ball-room, with 
stage for theatricals, etc., elevator, gas, electric bells ; drinking- 
water from mountain springs ; resident physician ; well-equipped 
livery. A picturesque iron bridge, affording a delightful promenade, 
has been recently thrown across the French Broad river, and in 
general all driveways have been improved. Open all the year. 
Proprietor, W. F. Ross. Hot Springs, N. C. New York office, 229 
Broadway. 

LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, TENN.— Lookout Inn.— Newly 
equipped as a winter, spring and summer resort ; on summit of the 
famous Lookout Mountain, two thousand two hundred feet above 
sea level ; magnificent scener)-, pure air and remarkably even tem- 
perature, beneficial in lung, throat and nervous diseases ; an impos- 
ing structure four hundred feet long, with central tower and exten- 
sive side wings ; wide verandas around three sides of the house ; 
large dining hall seating six hundred guests ; bedrooms, all outside 
rooms, spacious and well-lighted ; all the most approved modem 
conveniences ; gas, electric lights and bells, steam heat and 
open fire-places ; billiards, bowling alleys, etc. ; accommodates five 
hundred guests. Manager, David B. Plumer, Lookout Mountain. 
Tenn. 



354 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

VI. 

VIRGINIA MOUNTAINS. 



SALEM — Hotel Salem. — An entirely new winter and summer 
resort, located in the Roanoke Valley and encircled by the Blue 
Ridge and Allegheny mountains ; elevation one thousand one hun- 
dred feet ; town and neighborhood noted for the social refinement, 
intelligence and hospitality of its people ; climate mild, equable 
and invigorating ; free from malaria ; excellent natural drainage ; 
average temperature for year, fifty-eight degrees. Hotel of brick 
and stone, five stories ; one hundred rooms, many en suite with 
baths; main lobby, office, dining-rooms, sun parlor and several 
guest rooms on the first floor ; thoroughly furnished and kept as a 
first-class hotel. Salem is on the Norfolk and Western railroad ; 
time from Lynchburg, two hours ; from Washington, nine hours ; 
Philadelphia, twelve hours ; New York, fifteen hours. Open all the 
year. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $3.00. Special rates to permanent 
guests. Proprietor, George W. Kittelle. 



VII. 

VIRGINIA SEASIDE. 



RICHMOND, VA.— Exchange and Ballard Hotel.— A hotel 
of ancient reputation, well known to the world of travellers whose 
wanderings have brought them to the capital of the Old Dominion. 
Famous for hospitality as dispensed by the Southerner ; now in the 
increased enjoyment of its fame. The two houses, Exchange and 
Ballard, are connected by a covered suspension bridge, making 
them virtually one ; remodelled and elegantly refitted throughout ; 
electric lights and elevators ; accommodates six hundred guests ; 
rooms en suite. Prices : — By the day, $2.50 to $500 ; special rates to 
families or for the season. Proprietors, Carrington & Archer. 



OLD POINT COMFORT.— The point of land between the 
James river and Chesapeake bay ; one of the earliest settled locali- 
ties on the North Atlantic coast and associated with some of the 
most stirring events of American history from colonial times down 
to the epoch of the late war ; the site of Fortress Monroe and the 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 355 

United States Artillery school. The winter temperature seldom 
falls below forty-two degrees ; and the air is bracing and tonic. 
Accessible from New York by the Old Dominion line of steamers, 
via Norfolk ; or by Pennsylvania Railroad to Baltimore, thence 
by Bay line of steamers ; or by the all rail routes of the Pennsyl- 
vania road via Washington and Richmond ; or by New York, 
Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad, via Dover and Cape Charles — 
Time, twelve hours. 

OLD POINT COMFORT— HvCxEiA Hotel.— The Hygeia Hotel, 
situated on the Fort Monroe government reservation, on a beau- 
tiful sandy beach, washed by the waters of Chesapeake Bay and 
Hampton Roads, is a large and luxuriously appointed house, with 
cathedral glass windows and other costly decorations in the pala- 
tial dining-room and parlors ; gas, electric bells, oral annunciators, 
elevators ; hot sea baths on every floor ; perfect dramage system ; 
spacious sunny verandas enclosed in glass, affording a fine water 
view ; beautiful dancing pavilion, with music afternoon and even- 
ing by the artillery school band ; Turkish, Russian, thermo-elec- 
tric, sulphur and other medicated baths ; varied out-door diver- 
sions, including promenades on the beach, drives to various points 
of interest, dances, concerts, etc. The proximity of the Gulf 
Stream, less than thirty miles distant, ensures a mild, bracing 
climate. Open all the year. Winter prices : By the day, $4 and 
upward ; by the week, $21 and upward. Manager, F. N. Pike. 



NEWPORT NEWS— Hotel Warwick.— On Hampton Roads, 
at the mouth of the James River, eight miles above Old Point 
Comfort, and twelve miles from Norfolk ; accessible by the same 
routes by whi^ch Old Point Comfort is reached and having like ad- 
vantages of climate and sea air. A substantially built hotel 
of first-class appointments, occupying a site which combines with 
park-like surroundings a marine view of great beauty and extent. 
The hotel cavSino offers a floor forty by seventy feet for dancing 
and other amusements ; a bowling alley in Queen Anne style, pro- 
vided with alleys spaciously designed for the use of ladies ; a 
promenade wharf three hundred feet in length, terminating in a 
spacious pavilion. Trips from the Warwick to the Hygeia, at Old 
Point Comfort, may be made by boat, by rail or by carriage. Open 
throughout the year. Manager, J. R. Swinerton. For terms, illus- 
trated pamphlets, etc., address C. B. Orcutt, Washington building, 
No. I Broadway, New York. 



356 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

VIRGINIA BEACH— Eighteen miles by railway east of Norfolk, 
thirty miles from Old Point Comfort, six miles south of Cape 
Henry, the beach being part of a broad belt of hard sand stretch- 
ing ninety miles along the coast ; thirty miles from the Gulf Stream, 
eddies of which bathe the shore ; protected from northwest winds 
by vast forests of pines ; winter climate as mild as in latitude 
much further south. 



VIRGINIA BEACH— Princess Anne.— In Queen Anne style, 
with grounds of one thousand six hundred acres fronting five miles 
on the ocean ; spacious public and private parlors, hot and cold sea 
water baths ; billiard-room ; electric lights in every room ; bells, 
elevator, latest sanitary appointments, etc. ; verandas enclosed in 
glass ; steam heat and open fires ; a pavilion two hundred and fifty 
feet long and one hundred feet wide, fitted up with tennis court ; 
two adjacent lakes and a land-locked bay ; boating and fishing and 
oyster-dredging ; the famous duck-shooting grounds of Currituck 
sound easy of access ; orchestral music ; telegraph connections ; 
boarding and livery stables ; receives three hundred guests. 
Prices : — By the day, $4 to $5 ; by the week, $25 and upward. 
Proprietor, S. E. Crittenden, proprietor of the once famous Cooper 
House, of Cooperstown, N. Y. New York office, 96 Broadway, 
room 55. 



VIII. 

MARYLAND. 



BALTIMORE — The Altamont. — In Eutaw place, at the comer 
of Lanvale street, on the highest ground in the city, and from its 
many bay windows looking out, in summer, upon a long vista of 
greensward, shrubberies and flower beds, encompassing beautiful 
private residences ; a new house divided into suites of family 
rooms ; sun parlor on top of house overlooking the city of Balti- 
more and Chesapeake bay; an admirable system of heating and 
ventilation, insuring constantly renewed supply of fresh air 
warmed to a genial temperature ; also open grate fires ; water 
filtered and purified by a patented process ; well-lighted and ven- 
tilated bath-rooms ; a sweet, quiet, home-like hotel, delightful as a 
place of permanent winter residence or as a home of temporary 
sojourn en route to and from the South, Baltimore offering many 
attractions, notably the celebrated art gallery of Mr, William T, 
Walters. Proprietor, C. Warner Stork, 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 357 

IX. 

NEW JERSEY SEASIDE. 



ATLANTIC CITY.— A city of ten thousand permanent resi- 
dents, having all the sanitary arrangements and conveniences of 
larger cities ; popular as a winter and spring as well as summer 
watering place, the climate being remarkable for its dryness and 
equability, for which reasons, as well as for the purity of the air, it 
is recommended by physicians to patients affected by pulmonary 
and nervous disorders ; the beach affords a ten-mile drive, and is 
bordered by a wide board walk, with numerous open-air pavilions ; 
boating and fishing in the bays ; accessible in three and three- 
fourths hours from New York, and one and one-half hours from 
Philadelphia by the Pennsylvania Railroad (Desbrosses and Cort- 
landt streets), or by the Central New Jersey Railroad (Liberty 
street). 



ATLANTIC CITY— The Brighton.— Recently remodelled and 
enlarged ; grounds extend to the shore ; promenade veranda seven 
hundred and thirty feet long and sixteen wide ; scientific plurtib- 
ing ; halls and public rooms heated by steam ; gas, electric bells, 
elevator ; six staircases, two fire escapes ; electric arrangements 
for sounding fire-alarms throughout the house ; parlor with bay 
window overlooking the sea ; ladies' reading-room ; large bed- 
rooms, with open fire-places ; suites with private baths ; hot and 
cold sea-water baths ; no bar, but service of wines at table ; re- 
ceives two hundred and fifty guests. Open all the year. Prices : — 
By the day, $3.50 to $5.00. Proprietors, F. W. Hemsley & Son. 



ATLANTIC CITY— The Travmore.— On high ground, with 
observatory rising to the height of ninety feet, where a parlor is 
prettily fitted up, to which ascent is made by the elevator ; bed- 
chambers seventeen feet square, elegantly furnished ; open fire- 
places ; hot and cold sea-water baths ; thorough sanitary arrange- 
ments ; gas, electric bells, steam heat ; sun parlor overlooking the 
sea ; children's play-room ; men's smoking room, with ocean view ; 
receives two hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $5 ; by 
the week, $18 to $25. Proprietors, W. W. Green & Co. 



.B58 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

ATLANTIC CITY— The Mansion— One of the largest hotels in 
the place, occupying a block two hundred feet square, on Pennsyl- 
vania and Atlantic avenues, within five minutes' walk of the beach ; 
handsomely furnished and artistically decorated parlors ; parlors 
. for children and nurses ; open-air pavilion for dancing, theatricals, 
etc. ; richly carpeted passageways and bed-rooms ; parlor suites 
with bath-rooms ; finely appointed cafe and billiard-room ; gas, 
electric bells ; water from the mainland ; thorough drainage. Open 
all the year. Prices : — By the day, $3 and upward ; special rates 
by the week. Proprietor, Charles McGlade, Atlantic City, 



ATLANTIC CITY— The Shelburne.— At the extreme ocean 
-«nd of Michigan avenue, Atlantic City, N. J., with a sea view 
:iinsurpassed in the place ; a modern and capacious building con- 
taining some eighty sleeping rooms, either single, double or en 
suite and replete with all the appointments of a refined and luxuri- 
ous home ; pure water, electric bells, gas, telephone, passenger 
elevator ; hot and cold sea- water baths, perfect sanitation and all 
conveniences for the comfort and pleasure of winter and summer 
-guests ; parlors, dining-room, reception, reading and smoking- 
rooms, and sun galleries are commodious, cheerful and handsomely 
and tastefully furnished ; table and service maintained at a high 
standard of excellence. Open throughout the year. For particu- 
lars, terms, etc., address the proprietor, A. B. Roberts, Atlantic 
City, N. J. 

ATLANTIC CITY— Sea Side House.— Two hundred and fifty 
-feet from the beach, at ocean end of Pennsylvania avenue ; stands 
on the highest ground in the city, commanding an unobstructed 
ocean view; a separate "ocean parlor" building on the water's 
edge with smoking-room, reading-room, etc. ; covered walk to the 
ocean; elevator, steam heat, open fire-places, gas, electric bells, 
etc. ; hot and cold fresh and salt water baths ; suites of rooms with 
private bath ; sun parlor ; large sun galleries ; receives two hun- 
dred guests. Open all the year. Proprietor, Charles Evans. 



ATLANTIC CITY— The Pennhurst.— On Michigan avenue 
near the ocean ; house of sixty-two guest chambers, with cottage 
of ten rooms ; electric bells ; sun parlor, children's playroom ; pure 
spring water ; steam heat ; private horses and carriages. Open all 
the year. Proprietor, James Hood. 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 859 

ATLANTIC CITY— The Irvington.— On the beach, at the end 
of Virginia avenue, a substantial and picturesque building, fur- 
nished throughout in hard woods ; elevator with all latest safety 
appliances ; wide stairways ; verandas to the first and second 
floors ; abundant water supply and approved plumbing ; bath- 
rooms ; steam laundry ; well-lighted children's play-room. Opens 
in February. Proprietors, Chambers & Hoopes. 



ATLANTIC CITY— Haddox Hall.— Open ocean front of four 
hundred and fifty feet ; enlarged, improved and furnished in oak ; 
large dining-room and parlors overlooking the ocean; verandas 
of three hundred feet and an interior promenade of two hundred 
feet ; billiard parlor ; ocean view smoking-room ; steam heat ; open 
fire-places ; dark room for photographic work ; receives two hun- 
dred guests. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $5 ; by the week, for one, 
$18 to $25, single rooms ; $30 to $56, double rooms. Proprietors, 
Leeds & Lippincott. 



X. 

NEW JERSEY PINE BELT. 



LAKEWOOD. — Situated in the great pine belt of New Jersey, 
sixty miles from New York by the New Jersey Central Railroad, 
and nine miles from the ocean ; trains leave New York at 8:15 A.M., 
1:45, 3:40, 4:20 and 6:15 P.M. ; winter temperature ranges ten 
degrees higher than in New York ; boating on the neighboring 
Lake Carasaljo ; beautiful walks and drives through the pine 
woods ; the sandy and gravelly soil, dry air and balsamic exhala- 
tions render the place a near-by winter paradise for guests troubled 
with throat, lung or malarial diseases. 



LAKEWOOD— The Lake wood.— The house, substantially built 
of brick and iron, has projecting wings forming a sunny court 
about which are grouped the living rooms, parlors, reading-rooms, 
music-rooms, billiard-room, sun parlors and enclosed piazzas one- 
quarter of a mile in length ; steam heat in every room and open 
wood fire-places of Roman brick and tiles in nearly all ; extensive 
system of ventilation constructed under supervision of an exper- 



360 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

ienced engineer ; electric liglits, artesian well ; morning and after- 
noon concerts, music at dinner ; billiards, bowling alley, telegraph ; 
long distance telephone ; cuisine under charge of Mons. La Per- 
rugue, late chef at Delmonico's. Receives seven hundred guests. 
Prices : — By the day, $5 ; by the week, $28 to $35. Manager, Fred. 
Sterry. 



LAKE WOOD — The Palmer House. — A new and substantial 
brick structure of modern architecture, built especially for winter 
use, and having all the appointments of a first-class hotel ; most 
approved system of steam heating ; open fire-places and wood 
stoves ; chambers single and in suites ; elevator, gas, electric bells ; 
bath-rooms on every floor ; sun parlor with southern exposure and 
open wood fires ; billiard-room ; pure spring water ; excellent 
livery attached to the house ; rowing and sailing on Lake Cara- 
saljo ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Manager, J, R. 
Palmer, Lakewood, N. J. 



LAKEWOOD— Laurel-in-the-Pines.— A new and imposing 
brick structure, on elevated ground, on bank of Lake Carasaljo, 
in the midst of beautiful pine woods, with charming views of lake 
and woodland from all points ; large windows and spacious sun 
corridors ; all modern conveniences. Manager, Horace Porter,, 
also manager of the Laurel House. 



LAKEWOOD — Laurel House. — Especially designed and. only 
used as a winter house, having sunny rooms, with open wood fire- 
places ; verandas enclosed with glass ; billiard and music rooms ; 
electric lights ; abundant water supply from an artesian well ; all 
the appointments of a modern hotel ; resort of a fashionable New 
York circle. Open from October to June. Manager, Horace 
Porter. 



LAKEWOOD— The Pl\es.— An old-fashioned residence on 
Madison avenue between Second and Third streets, in the midst 
of large grounds, with grove of old trees, mostly oak ; open fire- 
places in halls and throughout the house ; large verandas on three 
sides ; excellent table ; receives twenty-five to thirty guests. Open 
from October to June. Proprietress, Mrs. John M. Child. 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 361 

LAKEWOOD— The Brentford.— In the highest part of the 
village, corner of Madison avenue and Sixth street ; of recent con- 
struction, with homelike and attractive interior ; large and sunny 
bed-rooms, most of them with open fireplaces ; elevator ; smoking- 
room ; house lighted by gas. Prices : — For double rooms, $30 to 
$50 per week. Open October to June. Proprietress, Miss A. M. 
Myers. 

XI. 

ISLAND RESORTS. 



THE BERMUDAS.— A group of three hundred and sixty-five 

islands lying off the Atlantic coast, southeast of Cape Hatteras ; 
the largest, Bermuda or Long Island, being sixteen miles long and 
a mile and a half wide. Upon this, Hamilton, the capital town, is 
situated. The climate is mild and vegetation is green throughout 
the year, the winter temperature ranging from sixty-five to ninety- 
five degrees. Bathing, boating, fishing are the outdoor diversions, 
and the English official society lends gayety to the place ; picture- 
esque drives over hard coral roads, bordered by orange and 
lemon trees, oleanders, roses and flowering plants. Accessible in 
sixty hours from New York by the iron steamers Orinoco and 
Trinidad of the Quebec Steamship Company, 39 Broadway ; 
steamers leave Pier 47, North River, at 3 P.M., every Thurday. 



THE BERMUDAS— The Hamilton.— The Hamilton Hotel, 
built entirely of stone, is delightfully situated on the highest 
ground, commandmg a view of the harbor and the numerous 
islands, many of which are connected by bridges and causeways ; 
gas, electric bells, hot and cold baths, etc. ; beautifully laid out 
grounds, rich in varied foliage and blooming with flowers all win- 
ter ; in the rear is Victoria Park, where the government band gives 
weekly concerts ; table generously supplied from the New York 
markets ; choice cuisine. Open from December to May. Prices : — 
By the day, $4 to $5 ; by the week, $21 and upward. Proprietor, 
Walter Aiken, Hamilton, Bermuda. Cable address. Hotel, 
Bermuda. 



THE BERMUDAS— Princess Hotel— A comfortable and hand- 
some structure. Built in 1881 of Georgia pine ; surrounded by a 
veranda four hundred feet long and fourteen feet wide, from which 



362 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

one of the best views of the harbor and islands can be obtained ; 
seventy large and well-ventilated bed-rooms in suites, with 
verandas overhanging the sea ; lighted by gas ; fresh and salt 
water, hot and cold baths ; table supplied with the best the New 
York markets afford. Apply for circulars, terms, etc., to N. S. 
Howe, Hamilton, Bermuda, or to A. E. Outerbridge «& Co., 39 
Broadway, New York. 



THE BAHAMAS.— A group of six hundred islands, forming 
the most northerly group of the West Indies, and extending from 
San Domingo to the coast of Florida. Only fifteen of these islands 
are inhabited, the most important being New Providence, on 
which Nassau, the capital town, is situated, accessible by the 
Ward line of steamers leaving for Nassau every other Thursday ; 
steamship office, 113 Wall street. 



THE BAHAMAS— Royal Victoria Hotel.— Built of the coral 
rock of the islands and stands on high ground, affording perfect 
drainage ; enclosed on three sides by verandas commanding a view 
of the town and harbor, the neighboring islands and the sea ; 
large, well-ventilated rooms ; hot and cold fresh and salt water ; 
table supplied with poultry and joints brought in ice-boxes from 
New York ; bananas, oranges, cocoanuts, guavas, tamarinds, 
pineapples and other tropical fruits in abundance ; beautiful drives 
inland and by the sea over coral roads ; hops every Saturday 
evening ; receives two hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; 
by the week, $17.50 to $25. Proprietor, S. vS. Morton ; New York 
address, J. Lidgerwood, 835 Broadway. Time-tables, pamphlets, 
etc., furnished by James E. Ward & Co., or R. W. Parsons, 113 
Wall street. New York. Cable address, Morton, Nassau, N. P. 



XII. 

CALIFORNIA. 



** The vSunset Route," as the Southern Pacific Railway is called, is 
the route naturally preferred in the winter season of the year. " A 
more delightful and comfortable journey," writes a Home Journal 
tourist-correspondent, " than that from New Orleans to Los 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 36^ 

Angeles could not be desired. Leaving New York in a snow- 
squall by the Atlantic Coast Line the ever-changing atmosphere 
from that of early winter to summer-like mildness, when we 
reached the Crescent City, was an inexpressible delight. From 
New Orleans to San Antonio, Texas, a distance of about five hun- 
dred and fifty miles, the road passes through a region rich in 
varied vegetation." Of the trip from San Antonio through the 
grand canons of of the Rio Grande and beyond to El Paso and 
Paso del Norte, Mexico, much in glowing phrases has been written 
by travellers of all nations. Pullman buffet cars on all trains. 
General Eastern agent, E. Hawley, 343 Broadway, or i Battery 
place, New York. 

MONTEREY— Hotel Del Monte.— An old Spanish town on 
the coast, one hundred and twenty-five miles south of San Fran- 
cisco ; on a magnificent bay, bordered by a hard, smooth beach, 
upon which the hotel company has erected a bathing establish- 
ment which includes not only dressing-rooms for beach bathing, 
but a vast inclosure containing four swimming pools, each fifty 
feet long, in which the constantly changing water is maintained at 
varying degrees of temperature. The hotel is a building of pic- 
turesque outline — a mass of towers, corners and angles, with 
broad piazzas and shaded porches — in a park of two hundred acres 
luxuriant in live oaks, pines, flowers and labyrinths of foliage ; 
gardens equal to those of Kensington and Kew ; four hundred and 
thirty rooms, warm and sunshiny, single and in suites, averaging 
16x19 feet; dining-room, 175x60 feet; parlor 50x40; ball-room 
93 x 40, with orchestra recess and grand piano ; ladies' billiard hall, 
library, large open fire-places of decorated tiles in all public rooms; 
club house with billiard hall, bowling alleys, etc.; elaborate fire 
alarm arrangements and discipUned fire service ; steam heat, gas, 
elevator ; fishing in the Carmel river, deer hunting in nearby 
mountains ; accessible by Southern Pacific Railway. Open all the 
year. Prices : — By the day, $3 and upward ; parlors from $1 to 
$2.50 per day extra. Proprietors, Pacific Improvement Company. 
Manager, George SchOnewald. 



SANTA CRUZ— Sea Beach Hotel.— City of about eight 
thousand population, on the northern side of the bay of Monterey, 
about eight miles south of San Francisco, among the foot hills of 
the Santa Cruz mountains, six miles from Big Trees ; temperature 
one of the most equable in California ; flowers bloom in the open 



864 WINTER RESORT GUIDE. 

air every month in the year ; surf bathing during every winter 
month ; abundant water supply from a reservoir two miles dis- 
tant ; street cars and electric railway. Hotel located on an emi- 
nence looking down upon Monterey bay, with a rich and varied 
prospect of sea and mountain from the wide verandas encircling 
the house ; a wing recently added, nearly twice as large as the 
original building, containing seventy-five large, light rooms ; 
spacious hall, extending the full length of the house ; hot and cold 
water ; private baths ; incandescent electric light. Prices : — By 
the day, $2.50 and upward. Proprietor, John T. Sullivan. 



REDONDO BEACH— Redondo Hotel.— Eighteen miles from 
Los Angeles ; accessible by Redondo Railway and Santa Fe Rail- 
way, and by steamer from San Francisco ; a new and large house 
of picturesque architecture and luxurious in appointments, deco- 
rations and furnishing ; hot and cold running water, incandescent 
lights, electric bells and open fire-places in every room ; elevators ; 
water from artesian wells ; scientific plumbing, the sewage pipes 
extending half a mile into the sea ; music hall eighty by forty feet ; 
orchestral music ; the dining-room commands a view of the ocean ; 
tennis courts laid out at cost of $7,000 ; elaborately appointed bath- 
house and pavilion on the beach ; varied and fastidious cuisine ; 
dairy products and small fruits from hotel farm of two hundred 
acres ; sailing, fishing, beautiful drives ; receives two hundred and 
twenty-five guests. Open all the year. Prices : By the day, $3 to 
$4 ; by the week, $17.50 to $28. Special rates for families and per- 
manent guests. Address, Redondo Hotel Co., Redondo Beach, 
Cal. 



XIII. 

THE SOUTHWEST. 



HOT SPRINGS, ARKANSAS.— These springs, which are cele- 
brated for their curative efficiency in rheumatic and other ailments, 
are situated on the slope of Iron Mountain in the central part of 
the State ; their waters which flow in great abundance are dis- 
tributed by a net-work of iron pipe through the cottages, hotels 
and numerous bath-houses in the valley below. 



WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 



365 



HOT SPRINGS— New Hotel Eastman.— A newly completed 
house, constructed of brick and stone and iron ; main building 
six hundred and seventy-five feet by seventy ; verandas seven 
hundred feet in length and fourteen feet wide ; an observatory one 
hundred feet high ; rotunda fifty-two by seventy feet ; public 
parlor sixty by seventy ; dining-room one hundred and fifty by 
seventy, other public rooms on a like grand scale ; all elaborately 
decorated ; guest chambers number five hundred and twenty, all 
large, well lighted and ventilated ; one thousand five hundred 
incandescent electric lamps light the interior, fifty arc lights, the 
exterior ; steam heat ; no fires in the building except in kitchen and 
laundry, which have been made fire-proof ; connected with the 
house by a covered passageway and under the same management, 
is a large bathing establishment containing forty bath-rooms, with 
porcelain-lined tubs, vapor baths, etc. ; excellent hunting and fish- 
ing in the neighhorhood. Prices : — By the week, $21 to $50, accord- 
ing to location. Henry N. Willey. 




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914 Chestnut St. 



Accredited Agencies in all 'Prirjcipal Cities. 



Whe Earl^h is S^pinl^ing. 



Sir Edwin Arnold, in one of his recent letters, says : 

*'This world we live in is becoming sadly monotonous, as it shrinks year 
by year to smaller and smaller apparent dimensions under the rapid move- 
ment provided by limited passenger trains and swift ocean steamships." 

The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad has, 
by the introduction of its Empire State Express, to a greater 
degree than any other force on this continent aided this 
shrinking process. It is now possible, by taking this Fastest 
Train in the World, to breakfast leisurely at your home or 
hotel in New York, and dine in Buffalo or Niagara Falls, 
more than 440 miles a,way. 




EMPIRE STATE EXPRESS " or the NEW YORK CENTRAL 

V_ THE FASTEST TRAIN IN THE WORLD. y 



From a Photograoh by A. P. YATES, Syracuse, N. Y. Taken when the 
train was running 60 miles an hour. 



For the excellence of its track, the speed of its trains, the safety and 
comfort of its patrons, the loveliness and variety of its scenery, the number 
and importance of its cities, and the uniformly correct character of its 
service, the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is not surpassed by 
any similar institution on either side of the Atlantic. 

JOHN M. TOUCEY. GEORGE H. DANIELS. 

Gehbral Manager. Gen'l Passenger Agent. 

GRAND CENTRAL STATION, NEW YORK. 



Id 2i ^iu'^k D^y. 

A Thousand Beautiful Views, 
A Tiiousand Historic Scenes, 

A Thousand Romantic Incidents, 

Fill the sight and mind of the traveler who jour- 
neys along our grand old Hudson River, and 
through the beautiful Mohawk Valley, on one of 
the Peerless Passenger Trains of the New York 
Central. 

Travelers who have visited all the countries of 
the Globe express the opinion that the trip be- 
tween New York and Buffalo and Niagara Falls, 
by the New York Central, is the Finest One-Day 
Railroad Ride in the World. 

Every Mile is Historic, 

Every Mile is Beautiful, 

Every Mile is a Pleasure. 

An ever-changing panorama of Rivers, Moun- 
tains, Lakes, Fields, and Forests, interspersed 
with Towns and Cities of international impor- 
tance and absorbing interest. 



For one of tlic ''Four-Track: Series," send two 2 cent 
stamps to GFORGF H. I>AXIFLS, General Passenger 
Aj^ent, Grand Central Station, New Vork. 



THE 



"WORLD'S Greatest Passenger Train." 



^/: ^ ^ 



This proud title has been bestowed by an 
appreciative public on the 




I 




3T is well deserved because the train affords more 
conveniences, more comforts and more luxuries 
than any other train in the world. One may eat, 
sleep, work or transact business as if in hotel or 
club. To this end there are luxurious sleeping 
cars, dining cars, ladies* maids, bath rooms for both 
sexes, a barber shop, financial news and stock re- 
ports, stenographers and type writers. United States 
Mail boxes and a library. 

7[T is the favorite train between New York and 
^ Chicago, and a trip on it is a long-remembered 
leasure tour. 

yJ^HE Pennsylvania Limited leaves New York 
from the Pennsylvania Railroad Station, 
foot of Desbrosses and Cortlandt Streets, every 
day at 12 o'clock noon for Chicago. 

J. R. WOOD, 

S M PREVOST General Passenger Agent, 

General Maiiager. 



P«IIC COA^I LllE 

J^ Via WASHINGTON. 

SHORT'^LINE 

BETWEEN 

BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, 

NEW YORK, BALTIMORE, 

WASHINGTON, 

AND 

RICHMOND, SAVANNAH, 

WILMINGTON, BRUNSWICK, 

CHARLESTON, ALBANY, 

THOMASVILLE, PALATKA, 

JACKSONVILLE, SANFORD, 

ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA, 

PUNTA GORDA, 

ALL FLORIDA POINTS, AND HflVflNA, CUBA. 

EASTERN OFFICES: 

229 Broadway, New York. 33 South 3d St., Philadelphia. 

228 Washington St., Boston. 106 East Germon St., Baltimore, 
511 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington. 



-TO .i^LL- 



WINTER RESORTS 

South Georgia, Florida, Cnba, the West Indies and Mexico, 

Via. H:AV.^>^A, CUBA, 

REACHED BY THE 

Plant BystEiii 

RAILWAY AND STEAMSHIP LINES, 

In connection with Pennsylvania R. R., via New York, Washington 
and Atlantic Coast Railways, and with the principal railway lines 
between all cities of the West and South-west, forming through train 
and sleeping-car service, and 

JACKSON! IL.L.E, ST. AUGt'STINE, TAI^IPA AND 
PORT TA:^IPA5 FLORIDA. 

FAST AND COMMODIOUS STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN 

Port Tampa, Key West and Havana ; Port Tampa and Mobile ; Port 
Tampa and St. James City (Pine Island), Punta Rassa. Fort Myers, 
Naples, and resorts of the Gulf Coast ; Port Tampa and Manatee River. 

The magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel, at Tampa, and the Seminole, 
at Winter Park, on the South Florida R. R., are open during the season 
of Winter Tourist travel, and are- maintained at a high standard of 
exceller.ce. 

The Inn at Port Tampa is open the entire year, and is in an attrac- 
tive, healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival 
and departure of steamers and trains. 

For further information apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to 

J. D. HASHAGEN, Eastern Agent. 

261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 
FRED. ROBLIN, Traveling Pass. Agent, 
261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 

H. B. PLANT, President, 

12 WEST 23d street, NEW YORK. 



WINDSOR HOTEU 

NBY^ YORK. 

HAWK & WETHERBEE. 



CONVENIENTLY SITUATED ON FIFTH AVENUE, NEAR THE GRAND 
CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, ELEVATED AND SURFACE 
TRAMWAYS, THEATRES, PLACES OF AMUSE- 
MENT, CHURCHES AND CLUBS. 



HAS BEEN RECENTLY FITTED THROUGHOUT 
WITH THE LATEST MODERN SANI- 
TARY PLUMBING. 



THE DRINKING WATER USED IS CHEMICALLY PURE AND THE ICE 
IS MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER. 



CUISINE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED. 



COOL AND ATTRACTIVE IN SUMMER. 



COMFORTABLE AND HOME-LIKE IN WINTER. 



6TAGES WHEN DESIRED. WILL MEET ALL STEAMERS AND CONVEY 

PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE DIRECT TO THE 

HOTEL AT MODERATE CHARGES. 



RAILWAY TICKETS. SLEEPING CAR AND DRAWING-ROOM CAR 
ACCOMMODATIONS CAN BE SECURED IN THE HOTEL; CABLE 
AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, RUSSIAN AND TURK- 
ISH BATHS, AND EVERY COMFORT AND 
CONVENIENCE FOR TRAVELERS. 



WELL-LIGHTED AND VENTILATED SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS, COR- 
RIDORS, DRAWING-ROOMS AND PARLOR SUITES, SINGLE 
OR DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHS. 



ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 




Grand Boulevard and West 71st St.. 
NEW YORK. 



THIS KAMII^Y HOXKI^ IS A I»EirKKCT OKl»I. 

EVERYTHING NEW ! EVERTTBING OF THE BEST ! ! 



Choice sunny Suites, large and small. Every Suite a 
Home by itself. Private Halls. Engagements made by the 
year. Suites fully Furnished or Unfurnished. A limited 
number reserved for parties wishing to remain in the City for 
a week or more. Rates Reasonable. American Plan. 

E. N. NA/ILSON. 



SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. 




United Stdtes Hole 



ii 



TOMPKINS, GAGE 4, PERRY, 

PROPRIETORS. 



Open 3^"^^ 2^^ ^^ Octo^cz ]^t. 



MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA. 




MIDWINTER SCENES 

AT THE CELEBRATED 

Moi^el del IT}onfe, 

MONTEREY, CAL 

AMERICA'S FAMOUS SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. 

ONLY 3K HOURS FROM SAN FRANCISCO 

By Express Trains of the Southern Pacific Company. 



R.ates for Board: By the day, $>oo and upward. Parlors, 
from $i.o3 to $2.50 per day, extra. Children, in children's dining-room, 
$2.00 per day. 

Particular Attention is called to the moderate charges for 
accommodations at this magnificent establishment. The extra cost 
of a trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference 
in rates at the various Southern Winter Resorts and the incomparable 
Hotel del Monte. 

Intending: Visitors to California and the Hotel del 
Monte have the choice of the ** Sunset, ♦♦ ** Central, ♦♦ or 
** Shasta" Routes. These three routes, the three main arms (^f 
the great railway system of the Soutliern Pacific Company, 
carry the traveler through the best sections of California, and any one 
of them will reveal wonders of climate, products and scenery that no 
other part of the world can duplicate. For illustrated descripiive pam- 
phlet of the hotel, and for information as to routes of travel, rates for 
through tickets, etc., call upon or address H. HAIVI^HV, Assistant 
-General Traffic Manager. Southern Pacific Company, 343 Broad- 
^way, New York:. 

For further infortnatiouy address 

GEORGE SCHONEWALD, Manager Hotel del Monte. 
OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA- 



s 


ea 


i^acl? 


Sofel 

» 




SANTA CRUZ BEACH, 1 


Santa 


Cruz^ California. 1 



The leading family hotel with modern improvements and 
first-class service. Hot and cold water ; electric lights and call 
bells in every room ; headquarters for all tourists ; six miles to 
the famous Big Trees, "Giant Redwoods.' 

The finest land and marine view on the coast. For terms 
and illustrated souvenir, address 

JOHN T. SULLIVAN, Proprietor. 

PACIFIC OCEAN HOUSE. 

The leading commercial house in 

SANTA CWLVZ. 

Centrally located on the principal Street. Large, pleasant 
sample rooms and modern improvements. Street cars pass 
the door. 

TERMS: 
$2.00, S2.60 and $3.00 per Day. 

SULLIVAN & CHACE, Proprietors. 
H. W. LAKE, Manager. 



YOUR ADVERTISING 



IS SOLICITED. 




Estimates, containing Selected Lists of Suitable 
Publications with Rates for Advertising, furnished free. 

References to firnns using this agency given on 
application 



T 



'HE PRICE OF 




UTICA, N. Y. 



ONE DOLLAR A YEAR. 

Many of its Readers Think it is Worth More. 
ITTS JMISSION 



To TELL YOU ABOUT AMERICAN SUMMER AND 
WINTER RESORTS. 



A subscription to The Tourist includes a 

subscription to any one of the four 

weeklies which form 

THE NEWS SERIES: 

Ths Saratoga News. 
The Richfield news. 
The St. Augustine News. 
The Thousand Islands News. 

WHICH HAVE BEEN CALLED 

"THE COURT JOURNALS" OF AMERICAN HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS^ 

Each subscriber to either The Tourist or any one of The News Series 
becomes a subscriber to 

The TraYellers' Bureaus of The News Series, 

Whose business it is to furnish trustworthy information relating to America's 
Summer and Winter Resorts. 



(General Qffice, UTICA, N. Y. 



F. G. BARRY, Publisher* 



II and 12 DOVER STREET, PICCADILLY, - LONDON. 
277 FIFTH AVENUE, - - - NEW YORK. 

1703 MICHIGAN AVENUE, - - - CHICAGO. 



KATE RBILY 

T T AS always on view at her three well-known estab- 
^ * livShments, in London, New York and Chicago, 
a varied assortment of the newest and most choice 
goods in 



(^osfumes, Mantles R^^MillinGf^. 



Madame Reily pays six or more annual visits to 
Paris, where she has also a permanent agent. She thus 
secures the freshest novelties, as they appear, and 
seizing all that is best and most becoming in the in- 
coming fashions adapts it to the especial requirements 
of her extensive' clientele. 

Madame Reily 's excellent taste has obtained for her 
the esteemed patronage of all the most fashionable, 
aristocratic and artistic ladies of both hemispheres 



PERFECT FIT GUARANTEED BY FIRST-CLASS 
FRENCH FITTERS. 



THE HOME JOURNAL, 

A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OF 

^IJIlFEI^AfPllF?B, fll^iP AND SOGIBIlY, ^ 

FOUNDED IN 1846 BY THE WELL-KNOWN POETS, 

CEO. P. MORRIS AND N. P. WILLIS, 

retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and 
art culture which gives grace and refinement to social 
intercourse. 

Readers at a distance will find the best life of the 
metropolis reflected in its pages. It is also in an 
especial sense an 

INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL, 

and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers 
into touch with the social life of the 

GREAT EUROPEAN CENTRES OF CULTURE. 

The Home JournaIv contains more advertisements 
of SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT HOTELS, and devotes more 
editorial space to them than any other newspaper. 

It has particular value as an advertising medium 
for EUROPEAN HOTELS, being the organ of cultivated and 
fashionable Americans — those who pass their summers 
in Europe. 

published every wednesday. 
Subscription, $2.00 per Year. five cents a CopYo 



MORRIS PHILLIPS & CO., Publishers, 

240 Broadway, New York, 




DEMPSEY & CARROLL 



f 



THE UNION SQUARE , 

ART STATIONERS . 36 

AND ^i^ EAST 14Tri STR EET, 

ENGRAVERS , NEW YORK CITY. 

C^ :^' 

CORRECT STYLES. 



RECHI'XIO:^ & VISIXI^G CARDS. 



High Grade Stationery, 

MONOGRAM, ADDRESS AND HERALDIC DIES. 

hand painted 
Menus axd Oinner Cards. 



RICH LEATHER GOODS, 

PLAIN AND SILVER MOUNTED. 



IMPORXEO SXAXIOXERY IVOVELXIES. 





iL/iss Tailoring, 

292 FIFTH AVENUE, 

Just Above the Holland House, Between 30th and 31st Sts. 



' It is easier to follow 
til an to lead." 



This aphorism is just as true 
to-day as it was in the time of 
Columbus, (§(§{§ 
As an acknowledged leader in HIGH CLASS TAILORING 
for the well dressed, I take pleasure to invite you 
to my NEW ESTABLISHMENT, FIFTH AVENUE. 
TWO NINETY-TWO (just above Holland House), to 
inspect a complete line of CLOTHS manufactured abroad 
by special warrant. <§ # '§ (f '# 



Prices 

Moderate. 



JOHN J. KENNEDY, 

NEW YORK, 



^tein^ay 5c Sens, 

PIANO MANUFACTURERS, 



BEG TO ANNOUNCE THAT 



HIS MAJESTY EMPEROR WILLIAM II. OF GERMANY, 

By patent dated June 13 1892. has deigned to appoint the piano 

manufacturer, William Steinway the head of the house of 

Steinwa}' & Sons, New York, piano manufacturer to 




THE ROYAL COURT OF PRUSSIA. 





STEINWAY 80 SONS 

Beg further to announce 
that by Royal Warrants 
dated respectively May 29, 
June 18, and Oct. 4, i8go, 
they were honored by the 
appointments of piano man- 
ufacturers to 

^ ^ HER MAJESTY 

THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND, 

AND 

THEIR ROYAL BIGHXESSES 

The Prince an d Princ ess of Wales. 

ILLISTRATED CATALOGUES MAILED FREE ON APPLICATION. 

STEINVk^AY & SONS, 

WAREROOMS : 

STEINWAY HALL, 107-111 East i4tli Street, DEW YORK. 

STEINAVAY HALL, STKINV* AY*S riANOFAKRIK, 

15 and 17 Lower Seymour Street, gj. p^^^jj y^^^ Roscn-Stiassc. 20-24 

Portman Square. \\ ., ^ 

LONDON. ENG. i HAMBURG, GERMANY. 



